tag:theconversation.com,2011:/fr/topics/sustainable-fashion-36369/articlesSustainable fashion – The Conversation2024-03-20T13:59:09Ztag:theconversation.com,2011:article/2256962024-03-20T13:59:09Z2024-03-20T13:59:09ZA brief guide to clothes recycling – sustainability expert unpicks how your discarded garments get processsed<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/582500/original/file-20240318-18-8tjjds.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">According to a textile sorter and processor based in the East Midlands, approximately 40% of sorted garments were not fit for reuse and needed a recycling solution</span> <span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/fabric-scraps-old-clothing-textiles-cut-1118321324">NicoleTaklaPhotography/Shutterstock</a></span></figcaption></figure><p>Have you ever paused to ponder the fate of those bags of old clothes you carefully deposit into the charity bin at the end of the street or within the bustle of a supermarket parking lot? It’s easy to imagine that those garments get magically transformed into fresh, wearable fashion, but in the UK, the reality is much more complicated. </p>
<p>The truth behind clothing donation and recycling is a journey fraught with <a href="https://www.mdpi.com/2673-7248/2/1/10">complexities</a> often not visible to the public eye. Textile waste – the clothing that we all buy, use and dispose of – is a significant <a href="https://changingmarkets.org/campaigns/fossil-fashion/">environmental problem</a> that often goes unnoticed. </p>
<p>Globally 88% of our clothing still ends up <a href="https://earth.org/statistics-about-fast-fashion-waste/">in landfills</a>. The mountains of textile waste will be getting higher as garment production rises at an alarming rate. In 2000, global manufacturers churned out 50 million tonnes of textiles, according to <a href="https://www.europarl.europa.eu/topics/en/article/20201208STO93327/the-impact-of-textile-production-and-waste-on-the-environment-infographics#:%7E:text=The%2520fashion%2520industry%2520is%2520estimated,flights%2520and%2520maritime%2520shipping%2520combined">the European parliament</a>. By 2020, this figure had more than doubled to 109 million tonnes and global textile production is predicted to grow to 145 million tonnes by 2030.</p>
<p>While writing <a href="https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=6-znEAAAQBAJ&pg=PT86&lpg=PT86&dq=policy+paired+with+technology+sajida+gordon&source=bl&ots=IkDEODrd-1&sig=ACfU3U1Zi0vMoeA3Nkj6jWa3po71E8Jamw&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiBsa2QqfaEAxWnUUEAHTWwDPUQ6AF6BAgdEAM#v=onepage&q=policy%2520paired%2520with%2520technology%2520sajida%2520gordon&f=false">my chapter</a> for the book <a href="https://www.routledge.com/Recycling-and-Lifetime-Management-in-the-Textile-and-Fashion-Sector/Niinimaki/p/book/9780367490836">Recycling and Lifetime Management in the Textile and Fashion Sector</a>, I researched the policies and technological advancements that facilitate the process of textile recycling. </p>
<p>Used or unwanted clothing gets collected from various sources, including donation centres, textile recycling bins, charity stores or direct from consumers. Once collected, the textiles undergo sorting at UK facilities based on what type of material it is, colour and condition. Garments that are deemed reusable – those that aren’t stained, soiled or torn – are <a href="https://theconversation.com/five-ways-to-reduce-your-household-waste-and-stop-it-being-shipped-to-poorer-countries-154123">shipped</a> to countries in <a href="https://www.greenpeace.org/static/planet4-international-stateless/2022/04/9f50d3de-greenpeace-germany-poisoned-fast-fashion-briefing-factsheet-april-2022.pdf">Africa</a> and <a href="https://www.globalissues.org/news/2023/05/18/33821">Asia</a>. </p>
<p>However, market sellers in these countries that receive these used garments often complain that the clothing is not fit for resale and ends up <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2023/may/31/stop-dumping-your-cast-offs-on-us-ghanaian-clothes-traders-tell-eu">in a landfill</a>. </p>
<p>A textile sorter and processor based in the east Midlands told me that approximately 40% of sorted garments were not fit for reuse and needed a recycling solution. </p>
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<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/582501/original/file-20240318-20-al5lex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="colourful heap of clothes in a big pile, blue sky in background" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/582501/original/file-20240318-20-al5lex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/582501/original/file-20240318-20-al5lex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=572&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/582501/original/file-20240318-20-al5lex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=572&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/582501/original/file-20240318-20-al5lex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=572&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/582501/original/file-20240318-20-al5lex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=719&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/582501/original/file-20240318-20-al5lex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=719&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/582501/original/file-20240318-20-al5lex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=719&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
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<span class="caption">Growth in fast fashion feeds into the mountain of textile waste that is hard to recycle.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/big-heap-colorful-clothes-184331444">Nomad_Soul/Shutterstock</a></span>
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<p>Fibre-to-fibre recycling is different to reuse. <a href="https://theconversation.com/why-secondhand-markets-and-apps-are-not-a-solution-to-clothing-waste-222321">Reuse means that</a> a garment is fit to have a second life and can be donated to charity or resold on websites such as Vinted. Fibre-to-fibre recycling is the process of breaking down the material of the garments so that it returns to its original state of a fibre, which may resemble pieces of fluff. That’s either done mechanically or chemically.</p>
<p><a href="https://reports.fashionforgood.com/report/coming-full-circle-innovating-towards-sustainable-man-made-cellulosic-fibres/chapterdetail?reportid=239&chapter=4#:%7E:text=The%2520mechanical%2520recycling%2520process%2520involves,using%2520a%2520carding%2520process31">Mechanical recycling</a> involves chopping up old clothes into tiny pieces – a bit like shredding paper. Materials are sometimes moistened with water to enhance the tearing process. The fibres are then separated using a process called “carding”, which involves using a machine to comb out and straighten the fibres, ready to be used to make new products. </p>
<p>To <a href="https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/3-methods-textile-recycling-dr-tanveer-hussain-gzkdf">transform</a> the fibres into textile yarn, mechanically recycled fibres are mixed with virgin fibres – because these new fibres are <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/fibre-size#:%7E:text=Fiber%2520length%2520After%2520size%252C%2520fiber,either%2520staple%2520or%2520filament%2520length">longer</a>, they add strength to the yarn when spun.</p>
<p><a href="https://reports.fashionforgood.com/report/coming-full-circle-innovating-towards-sustainable-man-made-cellulosic-fibres/chapterdetail?reportid=239&chapter=4#:%7E:text=The%2520mechanical%2520recycling%2520process%2520involves,using%2520a%2520carding%2520process31">Chemical recycling</a> involves breaking down fragments of old clothes into smaller parts. These are then cleaned and purified using filters and separators. Chemical <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214993722001270">solvents are used</a> to break down polymers, remove dyes and dissolve other additives. Once clean, <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1177/0734242X18819277">broken down fibres</a> can be spun to make new yarn, just like making cotton from scratch. This recycled yarn can be woven into fabric using industrial weaving machines.</p>
<h2>Transforming textiles</h2>
<p>Mechanical recycling produces short lengths of fibre and results in <a href="https://blog.agchemigroup.eu/the-chemical-recycling-of-clothes-part-1-the-challenges/">poor quality</a> yarn. Relying on raw virgin fibre to add length and strength can be costly. </p>
<p><a href="https://resource.co/article/what-chemical-recycling-good-and-bad">Chemical recycling</a> of polyesters, which are made from plastic, can create harmful tiny particles of microplastics in the air and waterways. Volatile organic compounds – chemicals that exist in gaseous form – can be inhaled and cause <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0160412015000082">health problems</a>, such as damaged liver, kidneys and central nervous system, and cancers affecting the lungs and blood. The process also emits carbon dioxide and methane, both greenhouse gases that contribute to global warming. </p>
<p>Expanding these recycling methods is expensive and potentially damaging to the environment. Systematic change begins when influential fashion brands reduce overproduction and waste by streamlining their production processes and <a href="https://circulareconomy.europa.eu/platform/sites/default/files/ecodesign_criteria_for_consumer_textiles.pdf">designing products</a> that are easy to recycle as part of a more <a href="https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-3-031-49479-6_1">circular economy</a>. </p>
<p>While green chemistry and circular design <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2452223622000979">solutions</a> could make recycling textile waste more efficient, more effective and safer for humans and the planet, the issue of excess waste still needs to be addressed. As shoppers, we can all make a difference by being mindful of our purchasing habits, appreciating the clothing we already own and repairing items instead of discarding them.</p>
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<img alt="Imagine weekly climate newsletter" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/434988/original/file-20211201-21-13avx6y.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/434988/original/file-20211201-21-13avx6y.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=600&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/434988/original/file-20211201-21-13avx6y.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=600&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/434988/original/file-20211201-21-13avx6y.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=600&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/434988/original/file-20211201-21-13avx6y.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=754&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/434988/original/file-20211201-21-13avx6y.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=754&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/434988/original/file-20211201-21-13avx6y.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=754&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
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<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Sajida Gordon works for Nottingham Trent University. She receives funding from UKRI. She is affiliated with WRAP Textile 2030. </span></em></p>Growing mountains of textile waste are hard to recycle. There is scope to improve chemical and mechanical recycling methods but consumers and fashion brands play a role in reducing overproduction.Sajida Gordon, Researcher for the Clothing Sustainability Research Group and Lecturer Nottingham Trent University, Nottingham Trent UniversityLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/2242532024-03-15T01:53:33Z2024-03-15T01:53:33ZUltra-fast fashion is a disturbing trend undermining efforts to make the whole industry more sustainable<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/582074/original/file-20240314-22-28steu.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=50%2C10%2C6659%2C4456&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">
</span> <span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/young-woman-lying-on-pile-different-2212805919">New Africa, Shutterstock</a></span></figcaption></figure><p>Since the 1990s, <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/09593960903498300">fast fashion</a> has enabled everyday people to buy the latest catwalk trends. But the sheer volume of garments being whipped up, sold and soon discarded is <a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.1186/s12940-018-0433-7">contributing to a global sustainability crisis</a>.</p>
<p>Now, just when the fashion industry should be waking up and breaking free of this vicious cycle, it’s heading in the opposite direction. We’re on a downward spiral, from <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s43017-020-0039-9">fast fashion</a> to <a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.1186/s40691-023-00337-9">ultra-fast fashion</a>. The amount of <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s43017-020-0039-9">natural resources consumed and waste produced</a> is snowballing.</p>
<p>Ultra-fast fashion is marked by even faster production cycles, blink-and-you’ll-miss-it trends, and <a href="https://www.marieclaire.com.au/latest-news/what-s-the-real-cost-of-shein/">poor labour practices</a>. Brands like Shein, Boohoo and Cider are liberated from the concept of seasonal collections. Instead they are <a href="https://sk.sagepub.com/cases/strategy-at-shein-the-secrets-of-ultra-fast-fashion">producing garments at breakneck speeds</a> and self-generating <a href="https://www.vogue.com/article/core-aesthetic-microtrends-2023">microtrends</a> such as balletcore, Barbiecore and even mermaidcore. At the same time there is <a href="https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJRDM-04-2019-0133/full/html">limited transparency or accountability</a> around clothing supply chains. </p>
<p>The <a href="https://intellectdiscover.com/content/journals/10.1386/infs_00082_7">overproduction and consumption of clothing</a> cannot be allowed to continue. Without change, the industry will account for <a href="https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/fashion-and-the-circular-economy-deep-dive">26% of the world’s carbon budget</a> for limiting global warming to 2°C by 2050. The fashion industry must take responsibility for its actions. Policymakers also have an important role to play in enabling the necessary shift towards a <a href="https://intellectdiscover.com/content/journals/10.1386/sft_0010_1">more responsible and circular fashion economy</a>. And let’s not forget the power of consumers.</p>
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<figcaption><span class="caption">The dark side of Shein’s success (China Tonight, ABC News)</span></figcaption>
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Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/to-make-our-wardrobes-sustainable-we-must-cut-how-many-new-clothes-we-buy-by-75-179569">To make our wardrobes sustainable, we must cut how many new clothes we buy by 75%</a>
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<h2>Cheap clothing at what cost?</h2>
<p>It was once thought the <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/15487733.2020.1829848">pandemic would trigger a transition</a> to a more sustainable fashion industry. Unfortunately in reality the industry is getting worse, not better. </p>
<p>Most ultra-fast fashion brands emerged in the late 2010s following the most well known, Shein, founded in 2008. These online, direct-to-consumer brands exploded in popularity during lockdowns, with Shein holding the title of the <a href="https://time.com/6247732/shein-climate-change-labor-fashion/">world’s most popular brand in 2020</a>.</p>
<p>Established brands such as Gap introduce <a href="https://www.wired.com/story/fast-cheap-out-of-control-inside-rise-of-shein/">12,000 new items a year and H&M 25,000</a>. But Shein leaves them in the dust, listing 1.3 million items in the same amount of time. How is this even possible? </p>
<p>The ultra-fast fashion model <a href="https://www.wired.com/story/fast-cheap-out-of-control-inside-rise-of-shein/">thrives on data</a> and <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2022/apr/18/ultra-fast-fashion-retail-sites-shein">addictive social media marketing</a> to create insatiable consumer demand.</p>
<p>But Shein’s incredibly low prices (its website has thousands of items under A$5) come at a human cost. The company’s own 2021 Sustainability and Social Impact Report (later removed from the site) found <a href="https://fashionmagazine.com/style/shein-influencer-trip/">only 2% of its factories and warehouses met its own worker safety standards</a>, with the rest requiring corrective action. </p>
<p>The brand has also forgone in-house designers. Instead it works with independent suppliers who can <a href="https://www.wired.com/story/fast-cheap-out-of-control-inside-rise-of-shein/">design and manufacture a garment in two weeks</a>.</p>
<p>The result is an incredibly profitable business model. Shein filed for an initial public offering (IPO) last year to value the brand at US$136 billion, up from US$2.5 billion in 2018.</p>
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<figcaption><span class="caption">How Shein Built a $66B Fast-Fashion Empire (WSJ)</span></figcaption>
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<p>Shifting from fast to ultra-fast fashion has serious environmental and social consequences. This includes even more exploitative labour practices. Shein garment workers reportedly work <a href="https://www.publiceye.ch/en/media-corner/press-releases/detail/75-hour-weeks-for-shein-public-eye-looks-behind-the-chinese-online-fashion-giants-glitzy-front">75-hour weeks and warehouses operate 24/7</a>. </p>
<p>Ignoring this shift isn’t just a fashion faux pas. Doing so jeopardises national efforts for a more sustainable fashion industry.</p>
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<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/fast-fashion-why-garment-workers-lives-are-still-in-danger-10-years-after-rana-plaza-podcast-203122">Fast Fashion: Why garment workers' lives are still in danger 10 years after Rana Plaza — Podcast</a>
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<h2>A seamless transition to sustainability</h2>
<p>The Australian Fashion Council is leading a <a href="https://ausfashioncouncil.com/program/seamless/">national product stewardship scheme</a> called Seamless that promises to transform the fashion industry by 2030. </p>
<p>The idea is to bring fashion into the <a href="https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/a-new-textiles-economy">circular economy</a>. Ultimately that means zero waste, but in the meantime raw materials would be kept in the supply chain for as long as possible by designing out and minimising waste. </p>
<p>Members will contribute a four-cent levy for every clothing item they produce or import. </p>
<p>These funds go into clothing collection, research, recycling projects and education campaigns.</p>
<p>BIG W, David Jones, Lorna Jane, Rip Curl, R.M. Williams, THE ICONIC, <a href="https://ausfashioncouncil.com/womenswear-giant-sussan-group-joins-seamless-foundation-members/">Sussan Group</a> and <a href="https://cottonongroup.com.au/news/cotton-on-signs-seamless/">Cotton On</a> are <a href="https://ausfashioncouncil.com/program/seamless/">Seamless Foundation Members</a>. Each has <a href="https://ausfashioncouncil.com/meet-the-foundation-members-of-seamless/">contributed A$100,000</a> to the development of the scheme.</p>
<p>As <a href="https://ausfashioncouncil.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/AFC-NCPSS-Global-Scan-Report.pdf">one of the world’s first</a> industry-led collective product stewardship initiatives for clothing textiles, Seamless presents a unique opportunity to drive change towards a more sustainable and circular fashion industry. </p>
<p>But there is a risk ultra-fast fashion brands <a href="https://stewardshipexcellence.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/White-Paper-Overcoming-Freeriders-September-2021.pdf">may act as freeriders</a> in Seamless, benefiting from the investment and initiatives without making meaningful contributions. Shein and others will continue putting more and more product on the market, which will need to be dealt with at the end of its short life. But if they fail to commit to the scheme, they won’t be the ones paying for that. </p>
<p>The government-funded consortium must also recognise ultra-fast fashion in tackling the industry’s environmental and social sustainability challenges. At the moment they’re only talking about fast fashion and ignoring the rise of ultra-fast fashion. Their global scan, for example, includes a discussion of fast fashion and <a href="https://ausfashioncouncil.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/AFC-NCPSS-Global-Scan-Report.pdf">no mention of ultra-fast fashion</a>. </p>
<p>This also points to a lack of data more broadly in the industry but in the case of Seamless, it could have a big impact if this growing market segment is ignored. </p>
<p>Shein and Temu are estimated to earn a <a href="https://www.abc.net.au/news/2024-03-08/rise-of-shein-temu-effect-on-australian-retail-ecommerce-future/103546188">combined $2 billion in sales in 2024</a>, with customers from all walks of life.</p>
<p><div data-react-class="InstagramEmbed" data-react-props="{"url":"https://www.instagram.com/reel/CyK4_Z-tRCe","accessToken":"127105130696839|b4b75090c9688d81dfd245afe6052f20"}"></div></p>
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Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/fast-fashions-waste-problem-could-be-solved-by-recycled-textiles-but-brands-need-to-help-boost-production-213802">Fast fashion's waste problem could be solved by recycled textiles but brands need to help boost production</a>
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<h2>The critical crackdown</h2>
<p>Some brands are actively engaged and <a href="https://insideretail.com.au/business/ebay-australia-names-dempstah-as-circular-fashion-fund-winner-202402">working towards a more sustainable future</a>. But others such as Temu are learning from Shein and <a href="https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2022-11-06/fashion-retailer-shein-s-competitors-are-copying-its-super-fast-business-model?sref=Yg3sQEZ2">looking to emulate</a> their business model. </p>
<p>The transition to a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry requires a greater understanding of ultra-fast fashion, urgent systemic changes and collective efforts. </p>
<p>The <a href="https://www.uts.edu.au/isf">Institute for Sustainable Futures</a>, where I work, is a founding member of an international academic research network aimed at tackling the complexities of ultra-fast fashion. That includes how ultra-fast fashion is affecting the livelihoods of garment workers, how it’s fuelling textile waste and underscoring the industry’s struggle to embrace circular economy principles. We’re also investigating how to reshape consumer behaviour, away from <a href="https://www.abc.net.au/education/war-on-waste-shein-haul/102708968">social media-fuelled hauls</a> towards more sustainable consumption particularly among Gen-Z consumers. </p>
<p>Last month, Federal Environment Minister Tanya Plibersek announced a <a href="https://www.abc.net.au/news/2024-02-21/plibersek-warns-fast-fashion-considering-clothes-levy/103492154">potential intervention</a>, perhaps by introducing minimum environmental standards or a clothing levy by July.</p>
<p>The clock is ticking. It is time to lay the foundation for a more sustainable and just fashion industry. Australia has a <a href="https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/1745-5871.12460">rich fashion history</a> and is home to many leading local brands – many of whom have gone global. These brands show us what is possible when good design, sustainability and innovation drive an industry.</p>
<p>Ultimately, our collective choices wield immense power. By understanding the consequences of our fashion habits and advocating for change, we can all be catalysts for a more sustainable and just fashion industry.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/224253/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Taylor Brydges is an Advisor to the Product Stewardship Centre of Excellence, which has provided mentorship to Seamless. </span></em></p>We know fast fashion is bad for the environment. Ultra-fast fashion makes matters worse. This disturbing trend towards disposable clothing is the opposite of sustainable. Here’s what must be done.Taylor Brydges, Research Principal, University of Technology SydneyLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/1963912023-01-20T00:15:22Z2023-01-20T00:15:22ZWhat do oranges, coffee grounds and seaweed have in common? They outshine cotton in sustainable fashion<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/504806/original/file-20230117-26-3v8ku.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=15%2C46%2C5160%2C3399&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">
</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Shutterstock</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>Ever considered the carbon footprint of manufacturing your favourite shirt? </p>
<p>The average cotton shirt <a href="https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20200310-sustainable-fashion-how-to-buy-clothes-good-for-the-climate">produces</a> 2.1 kilograms of carbon dioxide – but a polyester shirt produces over twice as much (5.5 kilograms). It might come as no surprise that the fashion industry is responsible for <a href="https://www.climatecouncil.org.au/resources/fast-fashion-climate-change/#:%7E:text=The%20global%20fashion%20industry%20is,shipping%20and%20aviation%20industries%20combined!">around 5%</a> of global CO₂ emissions. </p>
<p>Some natural fibres can also take a heavy toll on the environment. Last week, for example, an <a href="https://www.abc.net.au/news/2023-01-11/land-cleared-for-cotton-farming-northern-territory/101651092">ABC investigation</a> revealed hundreds of hectares of the Northern Territory’s pristine tropical savanna had been cleared to make way for cotton farms, sometimes without permit. </p>
<p>So, are there more sustainable textiles we should be producing and purchasing instead? </p>
<p>Research, including our <a href="https://www.elsevier.com/books/sustainable-fibres-for-fashion-and-textile-manufacturing/nayak/978-0-12-824052-6">own ongoing research</a>, points to certain “non-traditional fibres” as new green alternatives. These include fibres produced from wastes – think coffee waste and recycled plastic bottles – as well as seaweed, orange, lotus, corn and mushroom.</p>
<p>Brands such as <a href="https://www.patagonia.com/environmental-responsibility-materials/">Patagonia</a>, <a href="https://mudjeans.eu/pages/sustainability-our-impact">Mud Jeans</a>, <a href="https://ninetypercent.com/pages/sustainability">Ninety Percent</a>, <a href="https://plantfacedclothing.com/pages/our-story">Plant Faced Clothing</a> and <a href="https://afends.com/pages/sustainable-designs">Afends</a> are among the brands leading the way in incorporating sustainable fibres into their products. But the true turning point will likely come when more of the biggest names in fashion get involved, and it’s high time they invest.</p>
<h2>The problems with traditional fibres</h2>
<p>There are two types of traditional fibres: natural and synthetic. Natural fibres, such as cotton and flax, have certain advantages over synthetic fibres which are derived from oil and gas. </p>
<p>When sustainability is considered, natural fibres are preferred over the synthetic fibres due to, for instance, their ability to biodegrade and their availability in the environment. </p>
<p>However, some natural fibres (particularly cotton) need a lot of fresh water and chemicals that are toxic to the environment for harvesting. For example, it takes <a href="https://unfccc.int/news/un-helps-fashion-industry-shift-to-low-carbon">10,000 litres of water</a> on average to grow just 1 kilogram of cotton.</p>
<p>In comparison, <a href="https://www.techstyle.solutions/sustainability/material-guides/material-guide-synthetics">synthetic fibres consume</a> a significantly lower amount of water (about one hundredth), but a significantly <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9780128197837000016">higher amount of energy</a>.</p>
<p>Petrochemical fibres made from fossil fuels – such as polyester, nylon and acrylic – are the backbone of fast fashion. Yet another big problem with such products is that they don’t easily decompose. </p>
<p>As they slowly break down, petrochemical fibres release microplastics. These not only contaminate the environment, but also enter the food chain and pose health risks to animals and humans.</p>
<p>You may have also come across blended fabrics, which are produced with a combination of two or more types of fibres. But these pose challenges in sorting and recycling, as it’s not always possible or easy to recover different fibres when they’re combined.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/504355/original/file-20230113-24-4n1g5f.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="Clothes on racks and strewed on the flood" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/504355/original/file-20230113-24-4n1g5f.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/504355/original/file-20230113-24-4n1g5f.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/504355/original/file-20230113-24-4n1g5f.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/504355/original/file-20230113-24-4n1g5f.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/504355/original/file-20230113-24-4n1g5f.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=424&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/504355/original/file-20230113-24-4n1g5f.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=424&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/504355/original/file-20230113-24-4n1g5f.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=424&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
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<span class="caption">The fashion industry is responsible for around 5% of global emissions.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Shutterstock</span></span>
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Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/cotton-on-one-of-australias-most-lucrative-farming-industries-is-in-the-firing-line-as-climate-change-worsens-191864">Cotton on: one of Australia's most lucrative farming industries is in the firing line as climate change worsens</a>
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<h2>Non-traditional fibres: a potential game changer</h2>
<p>Amid the overconsumption of traditional fibres, several global fashion brands have started to adopt new fibres derived from seaweed, corn, and mushroom. This includes <a href="https://www.voguescandinavia.com/articles/the-new-sustainable-materials-to-know">Stella McCartney</a>, <a href="https://www.forbes.com/sites/walterloeb/2022/06/10/is-there-a-future-of-for-leather-in-fashion/?sh=2b7fba347817">Balenciaga</a>, <a href="https://www.outsidebusinessjournal.com/brands/green-scene-using-corn-to-make-a-polyester-like-fiber/">Patagonia</a>, and <a href="https://textilevaluechain.in/news-insights/fashion-from-the-sea-algae-seaweed/">Algiknit</a>. </p>
<p>Other emerging natural fibres include lotus, pineapple and banana fibres. Lotus fibres are extracted from the plant stem, banana fibres are extracted from the petiole (the stalk that connects the leaf and stem), and pineapple fibres are extracted from pineapple leaves. </p>
<p>The process of extracting fibres from wastes such as <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6477616/">orange peels</a>, <a href="http://www.revistaindustriatextila.ro/images/2022/3/008%20AVCIOGLU%20KALEBEK%20NAZAN%20Industria%20Textila%203_2022.pdf">coffee grounds</a>, and even from the protein of waste milk, has also been <a href="https://www.commonobjective.co/article/innovation-in-cellulosic-fibres">well researched</a>, and clothes have been successfully manufactured from these materials. </p>
<p>All these examples of non-traditional fibres are free from many of the problems mentioned earlier, such as heavy resource consumption (particularly fresh water), use of toxic chemicals, and the use of large amounts of energy (for synthetic fibres). </p>
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Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/patagonias-founder-has-given-his-company-away-to-fight-climate-change-and-advance-conservation-5-questions-answered-190827">Patagonia's founder has given his company away to fight climate change and advance conservation: 5 questions answered</a>
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<p>Further, these fibres are biodegradable at their end of life and don’t release microplastics when you wash them.</p>
<p>Meanwhile, there has been tremendous growth in the use of <a href="https://thenextcartel.com/discover/fashion-and-sustainability-the-macro-risks-of-recycled-synthetic-fabric-micro-fibers/">recycled synthetic fibres</a>, which reduces the use of virgin materials, energy and chemical consumption. Recycling plastics such as <a href="https://www.trvst.world/sustainable-living/fashion/turning-plastic-waste-into-clothes/">drink bottles</a> to make clothing is also becoming more common. Such innovations can help lower our dependency on raw materials and mitigate plastic pollution.</p>
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<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/504351/original/file-20230112-16-li24wl.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="Plastic water bottle scrunched in a hand" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/504351/original/file-20230112-16-li24wl.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/504351/original/file-20230112-16-li24wl.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=401&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/504351/original/file-20230112-16-li24wl.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=401&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/504351/original/file-20230112-16-li24wl.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=401&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/504351/original/file-20230112-16-li24wl.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/504351/original/file-20230112-16-li24wl.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/504351/original/file-20230112-16-li24wl.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
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<span class="caption">Recycling plastic bottles to create synthetic fibres is a great way to minimise waste.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Shutterstock</span></span>
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<p>What’s more, the selection of appropriate colour combinations during recycling and processing for fabrics can avoid the need for dyeing.</p>
<h2>What now?</h2>
<p>Fashion companies can reduce the load on the environment through seriously investing in producing sustainable fibres and fabrics. Many are still in research stage or not receiving wider commercial applications. </p>
<p>Fashion manufacturers, large fashion brands and retailers need to invest in the research and development to scale-up production of these fibres. And machine manufacturers also need to develop technologies for large-scale harvesting and manufacturing raw materials, such as sustainable fibre and yarn.</p>
<p>At the same time, you, as a consumer, have an important role to play by demanding information about products and holding brands accountable.</p>
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<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/consumers-are-wise-to-woke-washing-but-truly-transformative-branding-can-still-make-a-difference-170190">Consumers are wise to ‘woke washing’ – but truly ‘transformative branding’ can still make a difference</a>
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<img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/196391/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Rajkishore Nayak does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>The fashion industry is responsible for around 5% of global greenhouse gas emissions. It’s high time global fashion brands invest in greener alternatives.Rajkishore Nayak, Associate Professor , RMIT University VietnamLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/1939532023-01-05T13:27:11Z2023-01-05T13:27:11ZGreen jobs are booming, but too few employees have sustainability skills to fill them – here are 4 ways to close the gap<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/500868/original/file-20221213-26864-q2772b.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=39%2C2%2C1857%2C1063&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">U.S. universities now have over 3,000 sustainability programs.</span> <span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://news.asu.edu/20211014-garbage-gold-circular-economy-research-makes-plastic-more-sustainable">Andy DeLisle/ASU</a></span></figcaption></figure><p>To meet today’s global sustainability challenges, the corporate world needs more than a few chief sustainability officers – it needs <a href="https://aka.ms/ClosingtheSustainabilitySkillsGap">an army of employees</a>, in all areas of business, thinking about sustainability in their decisions every day.</p>
<p>That means product designers, supply managers, economists, scientists, architects and many others with the knowledge to both recognize unsustainable practices and find ways to improve sustainability for the overall health of their companies and the planet.</p>
<p>Employers are increasingly looking for those skills. We analyzed job ads from a <a href="https://lightcast.io/">global database</a> and found a tenfold increase in the number of jobs with “sustainability” in the title over the last decade, reaching 177,000 in 2021.</p>
<p>What’s troubling is that there are not enough skilled workers to meet the rapid growth in green and sustainability jobs available.</p>
<p>While the number of “<a href="https://www.linkedin.com/learning/green-jobs-for-sustainable-careers/what-is-a-green-job">green jobs</a>” grew globally at a <a href="https://linkedin.github.io/global-green-report-2022/">rate of 8%</a> per year over the last five years, the number of people listing green skills in their profiles only <a href="https://economicgraph.linkedin.com/content/dam/me/economicgraph/en-us/global-green-skills-report/global-green-skills-report-pdf/li-green-economy-report-2022-annex.pdf">grew by 6%</a> per year, according to a LinkedIn analysis of its nearly 800 million users.</p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="A man stands beside a 3-D printer in a university lab." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/500870/original/file-20221213-21589-wcwzhh.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/500870/original/file-20221213-21589-wcwzhh.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/500870/original/file-20221213-21589-wcwzhh.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/500870/original/file-20221213-21589-wcwzhh.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/500870/original/file-20221213-21589-wcwzhh.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=424&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/500870/original/file-20221213-21589-wcwzhh.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=424&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/500870/original/file-20221213-21589-wcwzhh.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=424&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">When employees are trained to think about sustainable materials and processes, they can improve corporate innovation and the bottom line.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://fullcircle.asu.edu/fulton-schools/stimulating-manufacturing-innovation-in-asus-made-science-and-technology-center/">Sona Srinarayana/ASU</a></span>
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</figure>
<p>As professors who train future workers in sustainability principles and techniques, we see several effective ways for people at all stages of their careers to gain those skills and increase those numbers.</p>
<h2>Where sustainability jobs are growing fastest</h2>
<p>In the U.S., jobs in the <a href="https://www.energy.gov/policy/us-energy-employment-jobs-report-useer">renewable energy and environment sectors</a>, <a href="https://economicgraph.linkedin.com/content/dam/me/economicgraph/en-us/global-green-skills-report/global-green-skills-report-pdf/li-green-economy-report-2022-annex.pdf">grew by 237%</a> over the last five years. Globally, the transition from fossil fuels to renewable energy is forecast to result in <a href="https://eos.org/articles/forecast-8-million-energy-jobs-created-by-meeting-paris-agreement">a net increase in jobs</a> for the energy sector. </p>
<p>But green jobs go well beyond solar panel installation and wind turbine maintenance. </p>
<p>Sustainable fashion is one of the fastest-growing green jobs sectors, averaging a <a href="https://economicgraph.linkedin.com/content/dam/me/economicgraph/en-us/global-green-skills-report/global-green-skills-report-pdf/li-green-economy-report-2022-annex.pdf">90% growth rate</a> annually between 2016 and 2020. </p>
<p>The rapid expansion of ESG investing – environment, social and governance – and portfolio management is opening up new jobs in sustainable finance. In 2021, the accounting firm PwC announced that it would invest US$12 billion and create <a href="https://www.reuters.com/business/sustainable-business/pwc-planning-hire-100000-over-five-years-major-esg-push-2021-06-15/">100,000 new jobs</a> in ESG investing by 2026. </p>
<p><iframe id="WlHBV" class="tc-infographic-datawrapper" src="https://datawrapper.dwcdn.net/WlHBV/7/" height="400px" width="100%" style="border: none" frameborder="0"></iframe></p>
<p>There is also a growing demand for urban sustainability officers who can help transition cities to be net-zero carbon and more resilient. After all, the world is adding <a href="https://population.un.org/wup/publications/Files/WUP2018-Report.pdf">1 million people to cities every five days</a> and <a href="https://doi.org/10.1088/1748-9326/ab4b71">building 20,000 American football fields’ worth of urban areas</a> someplace on the planet every day. </p>
<p>In 2013, when the Rockefeller Foundation <a href="https://www.rockefellerfoundation.org/100-resilient-cities/">launched 100 Resilient Cities</a>, a network to help cities become more sustainable, few cities had a resilience or sustainability officer. Today, more than 250 communities and 1,000 local government professionals are part of the <a href="https://www.usdn.org/index.html">Urban Sustainability Directors Network</a>. </p>
<p>The number of companies with <a href="https://businesschief.com/sustainability/charting-rise-chief-sustainability-officer">chief sustainability officers</a> in executive positions also <a href="https://www.reuters.com/business/sustainable-business/number-company-sustainability-officers-triples-2021-study-2022-05-04/">tripled</a> from 9% to 28% between 2016 and 2021. But given the <a href="https://www.ey.com/en_gl/sustainability/how-can-slowing-climate-change-accelerate-your-financial-performance">scale and business opportunities of sustainability</a>, these skills are needed much more widely within organizations.</p>
<h2>So, where can you find training?</h2>
<p>Most sustainability and green jobs require creative problem-solving, synthesizing and <a href="https://www.lse.ac.uk/granthaminstitute/publication/whos-fit-for-the-low-carbon-transition-emerging-skills-and-wage-gaps-in-job-ad-data/">technical skills</a>. Some of those skills can be learned on the job, but boosting the number of qualified job applicants will <a href="https://www.nationalacademies.org/our-work/strengthening-sustainability-programs-and-curricula-at-the-undergraduate-and-graduate-levels">require more effective and accessible training</a> opportunities that target employers’ needs. Here are a some training sources to consider.</p>
<p><strong>University programs:</strong> Sustainability is increasingly being incorporated into a wide range of university programs. Fifteen years ago, sustainability training was mostly ad hoc – a product designer or economist might have taken a class in sustainability approaches from the environmental science department. Today, U.S. universities have <a href="https://hub.aashe.org/browse/types/academicprogram/">about 3,000 programs</a> with a “sustainability” label, up from 13 in 2008.</p>
<p>A National Academies <a href="https://www.nationalacademies.org/our-work/strengthening-sustainability-programs-and-curricula-at-the-undergraduate-and-graduate-levels">report</a> recommends looking for a competency-based approach to sustainability learning that blends content with skills and links knowledge to action to solve problems and develop solutions.</p>
<p><strong>Micro-credentials:</strong> For mid-career employees who <a href="https://eandt.theiet.org/content/articles/2021/10/plug-the-gap-retrain-for-net-zero/">don’t have the time</a> to reinvest in full-fledged degrees, short courses and micro-credentials offered by universities, colleges or professional groups offer one way to develop sustainability skills.</p>
<p>A micro-credential might involve taking a series of courses or workshops focused on a specific skill, such as <a href="https://www.farmingdale.edu/provost/microcredentials/wind-energy-technology-mc.shtml">in wind energy technology</a> or <a href="https://www.tcd.ie/courses/microcredentials/by-school/micro-credentials---business/creating-value-with-esg---micro-credential/">how to incorporate ESG criteria</a> into business operations.</p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="A group of people wearing hard hats install a large window." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/501166/original/file-20221214-14279-49z6wq.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/501166/original/file-20221214-14279-49z6wq.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=399&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/501166/original/file-20221214-14279-49z6wq.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=399&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/501166/original/file-20221214-14279-49z6wq.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=399&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/501166/original/file-20221214-14279-49z6wq.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=502&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/501166/original/file-20221214-14279-49z6wq.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=502&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/501166/original/file-20221214-14279-49z6wq.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=502&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">U.S. architect Michael Reynolds holds four-week, hands-on training sessions, primarily for architects, in sustainable design principles, construction methods and philosophy. Participation can count toward Western Colorado University’s Master in Environmental Management graduate degree.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/trainees-work-during-the-construction-of-an-auto-news-photo/509595572">Pablo Porciuncula/AFP via Getty Images</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Short courses and micro credentials take up less time and are much less expensive than college degree programs. That may also help <a href="https://uwlpress.uwl.ac.uk/newvistas/article/id/193/">lower-income individuals</a> train for sustainability jobs and diversify the field.</p>
<p><strong>Specializations:</strong> A similar option is jobs-focused online certificate programs with a sustainability specialization. </p>
<p>For example, Google teamed up with universities to provide online courses for project managers, and Arizona State University is offering a <a href="https://grow.google/certificates/project-management">sustainability specialization</a> to accompany it. Project management is an area where the <a href="https://www.onetonline.org/link/summary/13-1199.05">U.S. Department of Labor</a> expects to see fast job growth, with <a href="https://www.onetonline.org/link/summary/13-1199.05">100,000 job openings</a> in the next decade.</p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="A pile of boxes of various sizes ready for shipping at a FedEx shipping distribution center." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/501167/original/file-20221214-16547-g5r5q3.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/501167/original/file-20221214-16547-g5r5q3.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=406&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/501167/original/file-20221214-16547-g5r5q3.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=406&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/501167/original/file-20221214-16547-g5r5q3.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=406&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/501167/original/file-20221214-16547-g5r5q3.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=510&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/501167/original/file-20221214-16547-g5r5q3.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=510&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/501167/original/file-20221214-16547-g5r5q3.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=510&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Sustainable packaging design that reduces costs and reuses materials is an area ripe for innovation in many companies as consumer shipping increases.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/fedex-worker-sorts-packages-being-uloaded-from-a-truck-on-a-news-photo/56304610">Justin Sullivan/Getty Images</a></span>
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</figure>
<p><strong>Corporate training:</strong> Some companies have developed their own internal sustainability training in <a href="https://fortune.com/2022/04/11/companies-embrace-employee-sustainability-education-to-tackle-climate-emergency/">climate science</a>, <a href="https://group.bnpparibas/en/news/we-engage-sustainable-finance-internal-training-social-environmental-challenges">sustainable finance</a>, <a href="https://home.kpmg.com/content/dam/kpmg/pdf/2016/03/30072014_Sustainability_Training_Brochure.pdf">sustainability reporting</a> and other skills.</p>
<p>Integrating sustainability across all functions of companies will require some level of sustainability training and understanding for most if not all employees. Companies like <a href="https://www.starbucksglobalacademy.com/greener-apron/">Starbucks</a>, <a href="https://sustainability-academy.org/tag/hsbc/">HSBC</a>, <a href="https://www.salesforce.com/news/stories/sustainability-core-value/">Salesforce</a> and <a href="https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/sustainability/learning-center">Microsoft</a> have created internal training programs to spread sustainability knowledge and practice throughout their companies, not just for employees who have sustainability in their titles.</p>
<h2>Closing the gap</h2>
<p>A recent <a href="https://aka.ms/ClosingtheSustainabilitySkillsGap">survey by Microsoft and BCG</a> of major companies found that only 43% of sustainability professionals in businesses had sustainability-related degrees, and 68% of sustainability leaders were hired internally. </p>
<p>It’s clear that on-the-job sustainability training and up-skilling will be necessary to fill the growing number of roles inside of companies.</p>
<p>To meet the sustainability skills gap, we believe more training will be required – at colleges and universities, by professional organizations and from employers. Achieving global sustainability and meeting climate change challenges will become more likely as legions of people commit their working hours to sustainability solutions.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/193953/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Christopher Boone receives funding from the National Science Foundation and the George and Cynthia Mitchell Foundation. He serves on the board of directors for the Global Council for Science and the Environment. </span></em></p><p class="fine-print"><em><span>Karen Seto receives funding from NASA and NSF. She is a member of the US National Academy of Sciences, the American Academy of Arts and Sciences, and the Connecticut Academy of Science and Engineering. </span></em></p>Green jobs go beyond solar panel installation and wind turbine maintenance. They’re found in fields from design to economics and in many types of management.Christopher Boone, Professor of Sustainability, Arizona State UniversityKaren C. Seto, Professor of Geography and Urbanization Science, Yale UniversityLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/1779362022-03-01T12:30:51Z2022-03-01T12:30:51ZSustainable fashion expert: why I’m cutting my wardrobe down to ten items this month<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/449006/original/file-20220228-19-18f9qs4.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=38%2C66%2C1705%2C1306&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">
</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Amber Martin-Woodhead</span>, <span class="license">Author provided</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>The rise of fast fashion has led to <a href="https://cleanclothes.org/fashions-problems/waste-and-pollution">huge increases</a> in the amount of clothes made, bought and thrown away. Between 80 and 100 billion items of clothing are made globally <a href="https://www.nationalgeographic.co.uk/environment/2019/06/the-huge-toll-fast-fashion-the-planet-and-why-the-answer-could-be-circular">each year</a>. Greenhouse gas emissions from textile production <a href="https://emf.thirdlight.com/link/kccf8o3ldtmd-y7i1fx/@/preview/1?o">are greater</a> than those from international flights and the shipping industry combined, making the fashion industry a significant contributor to climate change.</p>
<p>Yet a <a href="https://comresglobal.com/polls/tearfund-great-fashion-fast-poll/">survey</a> of UK adults found that 57% of respondents owned new clothes they’d never worn. Meanwhile, <a href="https://comresglobal.com/polls/tearfund-great-fashion-fast-poll/">less than one in four</a> UK adults cite concerns about the environment as the main reason they would buy fewer clothes.</p>
<p>In a bid to raise funds and highlight the link between the fashion industry and the climate crisis, UK charity Tearfund is launching <a href="https://www.tearfund.org/campaigns/join-the-great-fashion-fast">The Great Fashion Fast</a> this March. To take part you choose ten main items of clothing (with some exceptions such as sportswear, underwear and uniforms) and wear only these ten items for the whole month.</p>
<p>I’m going to be taking part because research has shown that fashion fasts and challenges, where you stop shopping for clothes or only wear a set number of items over a certain period – or both – can have a variety of benefits.</p>
<p>For example, these initiatives can help people develop their personal style and <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/0887302X15579990">enhance their creativity</a> with fashion. They can also be associated with improvements in self-confidence and stop people feeling pressure to constantly <a href="http://gfc-conference.eu/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/KIDD-ET-AL_The-Fashion-Detox-Challenge-An-experiment-in-reduced-clothing-consumption.pdf">buy new clothes</a>. Studies have shown these challenges can help participants realise that they might not need <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/15487733.2021.1891673">as many clothes</a> as they once thought they did, move away from previous <a href="http://gfc-conference.eu/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/KIDD-ET-AL_The-Fashion-Detox-Challenge-An-experiment-in-reduced-clothing-consumption.pdf">impulse shopping habits</a>, and encourage more considered fashion purchases in the future.</p>
<p>I’ve previously taken part in UK campaign group Labour Behind the Label’s <a href="https://labourbehindthelabel.org/get-involved/fundraise-for-us/the-six-items-challenge/">Six Items Challenge</a>, where you only wear six items over six weeks. As the research suggests, I found it really helped me realise just how few clothes I need. It made picking an outfit each morning incredibly simple, while creating lots of different outfits from only a few items of clothing showed me how versatile just a few pieces can be.</p>
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<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/read-this-before-you-go-sales-shopping-the-environmental-costs-of-fast-fashion-88373">Read this before you go sales shopping: the environmental costs of fast fashion</a>
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</em>
</p>
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<h2>Tips for choosing the best items</h2>
<p>Along the way, I also picked up some practical tips, which are good to keep in mind if you fancy taking part in a fashion challenge yourself.</p>
<ul>
<li><p>When choosing your items, it’s best to try to pick a few matching colours so that everything goes together. For this year’s Great Fashion Fast I’ve picked neutrals – black, grey and white, plus pink (you can see my choices in the photo at the top of the article).</p></li>
<li><p>Try to pick different items that can make lots of different outfits. I’ve chosen one coat, two pairs of jeans, one skirt, three tops and three cardigans. The Great Fashion Fast website offers some <a href="https://www.tearfund.org/campaigns/join-the-great-fashion-fast/the-great-fashion-fast-guide">helpful examples</a> of what sorts of items to pick.</p></li>
<li><p>Versatile items that can be layered and worn in different ways are helpful. For example, I’ve got a jumper that can also be worn as a cardigan.</p></li>
<li><p>Think about the weather. It’s quite chilly in the UK in March, so I’ve picked a few cardigans that I can layer up if needed.</p></li>
<li><p>When doing a fashion fast, it can be helpful to handwash the odd item in the sink so you don’t run out of clothes. </p></li>
</ul>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="A woman looks at clothes on a rack." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/449013/original/file-20220228-13-2sbfm.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/449013/original/file-20220228-13-2sbfm.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=401&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/449013/original/file-20220228-13-2sbfm.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=401&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/449013/original/file-20220228-13-2sbfm.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=401&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/449013/original/file-20220228-13-2sbfm.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/449013/original/file-20220228-13-2sbfm.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/449013/original/file-20220228-13-2sbfm.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">The fast fashion industry takes a heavy toll on the environment.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/woman-choosing-dress-during-shopping-garments-266841506">Dmitry Kalinovsky/Shutterstock</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<h2>Everyone can make their wardrobe more sustainable</h2>
<p>While a fashion fast is great for raising funds and starting conversations about sustainable fashion, if it’s not your cup of tea, there are still plenty of things you can do to support it.</p>
<ul>
<li><p>First, try to keep your clothes for as long as possible by washing them carefully and repairing them. For example, bobbles on knitwear can be removed with a razor or fabric shaver, and a small sewing kit can be all you need to <a href="https://youtu.be/MmcEF2GR584">sew back on buttons</a> and sew up any <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkrc-V8sRlk">holes or tears</a>.</p></li>
<li><p>Try to buy second-hand clothes where possible (I prefer the term “pre-loved”). Charity shops, vintage stores, and websites like Facebook marketplace, eBay, Vinted and HardlyEverWornIt are great places to start. Swapping clothes with friends and family can be a good option too.</p></li>
<li><p>Have you thought about <a href="https://www.independent.co.uk/extras/indybest/fashion-beauty/womens-clothing/best-fashion-rental-service-womens-wardrobe-online-subscription-dress-designer-a9586991.html">renting clothes</a>? There are now lots of companies that offer fashion rental based on a subscription service or pay per hire. Renting clothes can be a more sustainable approach for people who like to wear lots of different outfits.</p></li>
<li><p>If you do need to buy something new, try to adopt a “quality over quantity” approach so you reduce the overall amount of clothes you own and keep them for longer. Buying higher-quality clothes can be tricky if you’re on a tight budget, so renting or trying to buy good quality secondhand items can be a good way around this.</p></li>
</ul>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/four-clothing-businesses-that-could-lead-us-away-from-the-horrors-of-fast-fashion-165578">Four clothing businesses that could lead us away from the horrors of fast fashion</a>
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</em>
</p>
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<img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/177936/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Amber Martin-Woodhead has received funding from the Royal Geographical Society for research on minimalism. </span></em></p>‘Fashion fasts’ are a great way of challenging fast fashion by helping us question how many clothes we really need and reducing fashion consumption.Amber Martin-Woodhead, Assistant Professor in Human Geography, Coventry UniversityLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/1556922021-06-04T15:21:56Z2021-06-04T15:21:56ZExotic leathers: why fashion products are more sustainable than some research suggests<p>The fashion industry tries to do the right thing when it comes to sustainability – after all, its profits increasingly <a href="https://wwd.com/sustainability/business/sustainability-diversity-parallel-systemic-issues-for-fashion-1234803743/">depend on it</a>. But it needs help. This is where science comes in. It is the job of scientists to generate hard evidence to help come up with solutions that work for people, businesses and the planet. Yet even issues that attract strong scientific consensus can sometimes arouse deep scepticism.</p>
<p>In the fashion industry, nowhere is that conflict more apparent than in the use of animal products. Animal rights activists and the fashion industry have long clashed over the use of natural materials such as animal furs, feathers and leathers versus synthetic alternatives.</p>
<p>The industry, with <a href="https://www.iucn.org/crossroads-blog/201903/banning-exotic-leather-bad-reptiles">scientific backing</a>, argues that using wildlife products is sometimes a better option than synthetics. Animal rights activists nonetheless protest such uses, and have every right to do so because free speech and public debate are critical forums for advancing knowledge and society as a whole.</p>
<p>Yet a disturbing trend has emerged: apparently scientific assessments of the wildlife trade that purport to reveal major problems, but seem at least partly to reflect a philosophical opposition to animal use by the authors. This can negatively impact both ecosystems and the people who depend on this trade.</p>
<p>In <a href="https://conbio.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/cobi.13716?af=R">a paper</a> in the journal Conservation Biology, we cite a number of examples of what we argue are flawed studies that can undermine science and sustainability. We also examine a case study of wildlife use by the fashion industry: a <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/338843549_Luxury_Fashion_Wildlife_Contraband_in_the_USA">piece of work</a> published in early 2020 by the scientific journal EcoHealth.</p>
<p>The authors of that paper analysed statistics about fashion items made with wildlife products seized by US Customs between 2003 and 2013. Many products were shipped by well-known brands and most items were derived from reptiles. The authors concluded that breaches of regulation were common and increasing – and hence that illegal trade is rife and (by implication) harmful to wild populations. As a result, the authors of that paper called for the trade to be regulated far more rigorously and, ideally, stopped entirely. </p>
<p>The authors’ philosophical opposition to commercial use of wildlife products is clear, for example, in phrases like, “If species are beautiful enough to carry as a handbag, they should be beautiful enough to let live sustainably and fulfil their ecological roles in the wild”. We don’t doubt the authors’ sincere passion for animals, but believe that sadly that perspective has led them to conclusions that are counter to the information that is available. </p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/404498/original/file-20210604-17-1d32rcx.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="Man preparing a python leather on a table" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/404498/original/file-20210604-17-1d32rcx.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/404498/original/file-20210604-17-1d32rcx.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=423&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/404498/original/file-20210604-17-1d32rcx.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=423&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/404498/original/file-20210604-17-1d32rcx.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=423&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/404498/original/file-20210604-17-1d32rcx.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=531&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/404498/original/file-20210604-17-1d32rcx.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=531&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/404498/original/file-20210604-17-1d32rcx.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=531&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">In Indonesia, the sustainable and regulated harvest of wild pythons for food and leather provides a livelihood for thousands of families.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Daniel Natusch</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Our re-analysis of their evidence shows that rates of seizure of wildlife goods by US Customs were exceptionally low, at 0.4% of shipments (or 253 out of 56,930), and decreasing rather than increasing. For comparison, US universities, museums and government agencies importing reptile specimens for scientific and other non-commercial purposes over the same time period had a seizure rate of 2.5%. </p>
<p>Nonetheless, does this mean that the fashion industry and reputable US institutions are involved in illegal wildlife trade? Of course not. These seizures mostly reflect paperwork errors rather than evidence of poaching or criminal activity. </p>
<p>For example, if a store worker in the exporting country accidentally misplaces the permits meant to accompany the shipment, that shipment will be seized on arrival. Or if one of the leathers used in a product (a lizard skin handle for a snake skin handbag, say) has not been written into the documentation, then the product will be seized even if valid permits cover other leathers used in that same product. </p>
<p>In some instances, a customs official may merely confiscate items and give the importer the opportunity to clarify the error. However, paperwork errors are indeed a violation, no matter how innocent or accidental – and whether the importer is a fashion brand or a reputable US institution – and most often the items are seized. </p>
<p>Nevertheless, the flaws in the EcoHealth article have already done their damage. Reputable media outlets like <a href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/animals/article/luxury-fashion-wildlife-imports-seized">National Geographic</a>, <a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/opinions/luxury/op-ed-luxury-fashions-link-to-the-illegal-wildlife-trade">The Business of Fashion</a> and <a href="https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/will-luxury-fashion-say-no-to-using-exotic-animal-skins">Vogue</a> reported the authors’ conclusions, further confusing fashion’s decision-makers and misguiding consumers, many of whom are desperate to make the right choice. Since then, Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein <a href="https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/pvh-corp-said-to-agree-to-stop-using-exotic-skins-after-appeals-by-peta-1234579009/">have officially dropped</a> exotic leathers from their product lines, joining other major brands like Hugo Boss, Victoria Beckham and Vivienne Westwood. </p>
<h2>A sustainable trade</h2>
<p>You might be wondering whether this matters. Even if scientific papers like the one in EcoHealth are misleading as we argue, surely killing wild animals to make luxury handbags is still unacceptable and unsustainable?</p>
<p>No, the exact opposite is true. Detailed scientific studies over many years <a href="https://www.iucn.org/crossroads-blog/201903/banning-exotic-leather-bad-reptiles">have shown</a> that the trade in exotic leathers – like those of <a href="https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0158397">pythons</a>, <a href="https://cites.org/sites/default/files/eng/com/ac/31/Docs/E-AC31-14-02.pdf">lizards</a> and <a href="https://wildlife.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/jwmg.22028">alligators</a> – can be entirely sustainable. Not only that, the industry also directly finances robust conservation programmes, with benefits for indigenous communities and rural livelihoods. It is the essence of a <a href="https://www.iucn.org/sites/dev/files/promoting_nbs_in_the_post-2020_global_biodiversity_framework.pdf">nature-based</a> solution to a nexus of growing global <a href="https://sdgs.un.org/goals">challenges</a>. </p>
<p>Closing down the trade in wildlife-based luxury goods can create significant economic and social problems for people in biodiverse countries like Indonesia and Malaysia. Ironically, it <a href="https://www.intracen.org/uploadedFiles/intracenorg/Content/Publications/Trade_Impact_Python_Skin_Trade_Malaysia_Low-res.pdf">may even increase</a> poaching of genuinely threatened species.</p>
<p>So, we have a choice. Do we want to maintain a sustainable industry, and help people and biodiversity co-exist, or do we want to ban exotic animal products altogether? We can’t have it both ways. Well-intentioned people will form widely opposed views on this matter, and that’s OK, but it is critical that the information to support those views is factual and reliable. </p>
<p>Climate-change deniers and anti-vaccination conspiracy theories have taught us that misinformation and ideology <a href="https://theconversation.com/expert-guide-to-conspiracy-theories-introducing-a-new-podcast-series-133258">can be deadly</a>. Flawed science on the wildlife trade poses the same risk for biodiverse ecosystems and the communities who depend on them.</p>
<hr>
<p><em>We invited the authors of the EcoHealth paper to respond to the above analysis of their work. One of the authors, Monique Sosnowski, a Lecturer at John Jay College of Criminal Justice at The City University of New York, said:</em></p>
<blockquote>
<p>We are currently in the process of publishing a formal response to the paper in question. While we cannot share all the details of that paper, given that it is currently under peer review, it is false to suggest that we have an anti-trade philosophical bias. As seen across our previous work, we neither petition for nor against the trade in wildlife. Rather, we acknowledge that there are rules and regulations guiding what can legally be imported into the United States, for example, and examine the available data on wildlife goods that have been seized upon legal violations. </p>
<p>We further would like to clarify claims made that the wildlife seizure data we analysed were the result of “paperwork problems”, “errors in documentation”, or other mistakes or omissions. This is untrue. Each individual seizure analysed was tied to one or multiple violations of federal regulations. These “seizures” vary distinctly from “confiscations”, which are more temporary holds possibly explained due to the aforementioned errors.</p>
</blockquote><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/155692/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Patrick Aust consults for various private and public organisations, including some linked to the luxury industry. His research has been funded by the UK Department of Environment, Food and Rural Affairs, the University of Witwatersrand Research Council (South Africa), the Carnegie Corporation of New York (through the Global Change and Sustainability Research Institute) and the Beit Trust (Zimbabwe/UK).</span></em></p><p class="fine-print"><em><span>Daniel Natusch has been involved in collaborative research projects on reptiles that have received funding from the luxury industry, including from LVMH and Kering (though the paper that is the subject of this article did not receive industry funding). He is the Chair of the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Species Survival Commission (SSC) Snake Specialist Group, which has received funds from the industry for conservation work. He is the Scientific Director of the Southeast Asian Reptile Conservation Alliance (SARCA), a multi-stakeholder initiative that uses industry funds to do conservation management and research on reptiles. He is also a director of EPIC Biodiversity, a research consultancy focused on sustainability.</span></em></p><p class="fine-print"><em><span>Richard Shine's research has been funded primarily by the Australian Research Council, and he has not received financial support from any commercial entities associated with the trade in wildlife products.</span></em></p>Snakeskins, alligator skins and lizard skins are at the centre of a battle between researchers over sustainability.Patrick Aust, Research Associate, Department of Zoology, University of OxfordDaniel Natusch, Honorary Research Fellow, Macquarie UniversityRick Shine, Professor in Evolutionary Biology, Macquarie UniversityLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/1573202021-03-31T11:20:45Z2021-03-31T11:20:45Z5 ways fungi could change the world, from cleaning water to breaking down plastics<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/391874/original/file-20210326-15-1w9lypa.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=114%2C114%2C5349%2C3522&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">
</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Shutterstock</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>Fungi — a scientific goldmine? Well, that’s what a <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tibtech.2021.03.002">review</a> published today in the journal Trends in Biotechnology indicates. You may think mushrooms are a long chalk from the caped crusaders of sustainability. But think again. </p>
<p>Many of us have heard of fungi’s role in creating more sustainable leather substitutes. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amadou">Amadou</a> vegan leather crafted from fungal-fruiting bodies has been around for some 5,000 years. </p>
<p>More recently, <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s41893-020-00606-1">mycelium leather substitutes</a> have taken the stage. These are produced from the root-like structure mycelium, which snakes through dead wood or soil beneath mushrooms.</p>
<p>You might even know about how fungi help us make many fermented food and drinks such as beer, wine, bread, soy sauce and tempeh. Many popular vegan protein products, including <a href="https://www.healthline.com/health/mycoprotein">Quorn</a>, are just flavoured masses of fungal mycelium. </p>
<p>But what makes fungi so versatile? And what else can they do?</p>
<h2>Show me foamy and flexible</h2>
<p>Fungal growth offers a cheap, simple and environmentally friendly way to bind agricultural byproducts (such as rice hulls, wheat straw, sugarcane <a href="https://www.britannica.com/technology/bagasse">bagasse</a> and molasses) into biodegradable and carbon-neutral foams.</p>
<p>Fungal foams are becoming increasingly popular as sustainable packaging materials; <a href="https://www.globalcitizen.org/fr/content/mushroom-fungi-packaging-ikea-decompose-ecovative/">IKEA</a> is one company that has indicated a commitment to using them. </p>
<p>Fungal foams can also be used in the construction industry for insulation, flooring and panelling. <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0264127519308354">Research</a> has revealed them to be strong competitors against commercial materials in terms of having effective sound and heat insulation properties.</p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/390362/original/file-20210318-21-92brk8.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/390362/original/file-20210318-21-92brk8.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=389&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/390362/original/file-20210318-21-92brk8.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=389&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/390362/original/file-20210318-21-92brk8.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=389&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/390362/original/file-20210318-21-92brk8.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=489&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/390362/original/file-20210318-21-92brk8.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=489&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/390362/original/file-20210318-21-92brk8.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=489&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Rigid and flexible fungal foams have several construction applications including (a) particle board and insulation cores, (b) acoustic absorbers, (c) flexible foams and (d) flooring.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Jones et al</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Moreover, adding in industrial wastes such as glass fines (crushed glass bits) in these foams can improve their fire resistance.</p>
<p>And isolating only the mycelium can produce a more flexible and spongy foam suitable for products such as facial sponges, artificial skin, ink and dye carriers, shoe insoles, lightweight insulation lofts, cushioning, soft furnishings and textiles.</p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/scientists-create-new-building-material-out-of-fungus-rice-and-glass-98153">Scientists create new building material out of fungus, rice and glass</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<h2>Paper that doesn’t come from trees? No, chitin</h2>
<p>For other products, it’s the composition of fungi that matters. Fungal filaments contain chitin: a remarkable polymer also found in crab shells and insect exoskeletons.</p>
<p>Chitin has a fibrous structure, similar to cellulose in wood. This means fungal fibre can be processed into sheets the same way paper is made. </p>
<p>When <em>stretched</em>, <a href="https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acs.biomac.9b01141">fungal papers</a> are stronger than many plastics and not much weaker than some steels of the same thickness. We’ve yet to test its properties when subject to different forces.</p>
<p>Fungal paper’s strength can be substituted for <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0266353820311738">rubbery flexibility</a> by using specific fungal species, or a different part of the mushroom. The paper’s transparency can be customised in the same way.</p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/390364/original/file-20210318-19-cs3uup.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/390364/original/file-20210318-19-cs3uup.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=255&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/390364/original/file-20210318-19-cs3uup.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=255&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/390364/original/file-20210318-19-cs3uup.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=255&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/390364/original/file-20210318-19-cs3uup.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=321&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/390364/original/file-20210318-19-cs3uup.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=321&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/390364/original/file-20210318-19-cs3uup.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=321&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Paper sheets with varying transparency derived from the brown crab’s shell <em>(C. pagurus)</em> (column 1), fungi <em>Daedaleopsis confragosa</em> (column 2) and the mushroom <em>Agaricus bisporus</em> (column 6). Columns 3, 4 and 5 show fungal papers of varying transparencies based on mixtures of the two species.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Wan Nawawi et al</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Growing fungi in mineral-rich environments results in inherent <a href="https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acs.biomac.9b00791">fire resistance</a> for the fungus, as it absorbs the inflammable minerals, incorporating them into its structure. Add to this that water doesn’t wet fungal surfaces, but rolls off, and you’ve got yourself some pretty useful paper.</p>
<h2>A clear solution to dirty water</h2>
<p>Some might ask: what’s the point of fungal paper when we already get paper from wood? That’s where the other interesting attributes of chitin come into play — or more specifically, the attributes of its derivative, chitosan. </p>
<p>Chitosan is chitin that has been chemically modified through exposure to an acid or alkali. This means with a few simple steps, fungal paper can adopt a whole new range of applications.</p>
<p>For instance, chitosan is electrically charged and can be used to <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1381514819308867">attract heavy metal ions</a>. So what happens if you couple it with a mycelium filament network that is intricate enough to prevent solids, bacteria and even viruses (which are much smaller than bacteria) from passing through?</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/391319/original/file-20210324-19-1hy6i88.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="White-button mushroom" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/391319/original/file-20210324-19-1hy6i88.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/391319/original/file-20210324-19-1hy6i88.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/391319/original/file-20210324-19-1hy6i88.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/391319/original/file-20210324-19-1hy6i88.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/391319/original/file-20210324-19-1hy6i88.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/391319/original/file-20210324-19-1hy6i88.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/391319/original/file-20210324-19-1hy6i88.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Fungal chitin paper derived from white-button mushrooms is an eco-friendly alternative to standard filter materials.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Shutterstock</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>The result is an environmentally friendly membrane with impressive <a href="https://www.dw.com/en/german-scientists-use-fungi-to-clean-soil-water/a-15894506">water purification</a> properties. In our research, my colleagues and I found this material to be stable, simple to make and useful for <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0144861720314466">laboratory filtration</a>. </p>
<p>While the technology hasn’t yet been commercialised, it holds particular promise for reducing the environmental impact of synthetic filtration materials, and providing safer drinking water where it’s not available.</p>
<h2>Mushrooms in modern medicine</h2>
<p>Perhaps even more interesting is chitosan’s considerable biomedical potential. Fungal materials have been used to create <a href="https://www.mdpi.com/1660-3397/18/1/64">dressings</a> with active wound healing properties.</p>
<p>Although not currently on the market, these have been proven to have antibacterial properties, stem bleeding and support cell proliferation and attachment. </p>
<p>Fungal enzymes can also be used to combat bacteria active in tooth decay, enhance bleaching and destroy compounds responsible for bad breath. </p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/vegan-leather-made-from-mushrooms-could-mould-the-future-of-sustainable-fashion-143988">Vegan leather made from mushrooms could mould the future of sustainable fashion</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<p>Then there’s the well-known role of <a href="https://cosmosmagazine.com/biology/a-deep-dive-into-the-genomes-of-penicillin-fungi-reveals-a-trove-of-potential-drugs/">fungi in antibiotics</a>. Penicillin, made from the <a href="https://mycology.adelaide.edu.au/descriptions/hyphomycetes/penicillium/"><em>Penicillium</em> fungi</a>, was a scientific breakthrough that has saved millions of lives and become a staple of modern healthcare. </p>
<p>Many antibiotics are still produced from fungi or soil bacteria. And in an age of increasing antibiotic resistance, genome sequencing is finally enabling us to identify fungi’s <a href="https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2017/04/170420090038.htm">untapped potential</a> for manufacturing the antibiotics of the future.</p>
<h2>Mushrooms mending the environment</h2>
<p>Fungi could play a huge role in sustainability by remedying existing environmental damage. </p>
<p>For example, they can help clean up contaminated industrial sites through a popular technique known as <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mycoremediation">mycoremediation</a>, and can break down or absorb oils, pollutants, toxins, dyes and heavy metals.</p>
<p>They can also compost some synthetic plastics, such as <a href="https://www.manchester.ac.uk/discover/news/your-old-sofa---and-much-more---could-be-composted-say-scientists/">polyurethane</a>. In this process, the plastic is buried in regulated soil and its byproducts are digested by specific fungi as it degrades. </p>
<p>These incredible organisms can even help <a href="https://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-35612554">refine bio fuels</a>. Whether or not we go as far as using <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/society/2020/sep/15/first-funeral-living-coffin-made-mushroom-fibre-netherlands">fungal coffins</a> to decompose our bodies into nutrients for plants — well, that’s a debate for another day. </p>
<p>But one thing is for sure: fungi have the undeniable potential to be used for a whole range of purposes we’re only beginning to grasp. </p>
<p>It could be the beer you drink, your next meal, antibiotics, a new faux leather bag or the packaging that delivered it to you — you never know what form the humble mushroom will take tomorrow.</p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/the-secret-life-of-fungi-how-they-use-ingenious-strategies-to-forage-underground-156610">The secret life of fungi: how they use ingenious strategies to forage underground</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/157320/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Mitchell P. Jones does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>Forgot tempeh. The humble shroom has the potential to be used across industries, in ways we’re only beginning to grasp.Mitchell P. Jones, Postdoctoral researcher, TU WienLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/1459352020-11-25T03:22:08Z2020-11-25T03:22:08ZEthical fashion is confusing — even shoppers with good intentions get overwhelmed<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/366921/original/file-20201102-19-11ohjd3.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=0%2C8%2C2725%2C1803&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">
</span> <span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1512436991641-6745cdb1723f?ixlib=rb-1.2.1&auto=format&fit=crop&w=2738&q=80">Lauren Fleischmann/Unsplash</a>, <a class="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/">CC BY</a></span></figcaption></figure><p>As Australian consumers step out of their loungewear post-lockdown, many might be looking to buy new clothes for themselves or as gifts. </p>
<p>Whether you’re buying sweatpants or sequins, online or in-store, ethical fashion shopping can be confusing. There are so many terms, certifications, and accreditation systems — not to mention the marketing spin and <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2016/aug/20/greenwashing-environmentalism-lies-companies">corporate greenwashing</a> — to navigate. </p>
<p>Our recent <a href="https://arts.unimelb.edu.au/school-of-culture-and-communication/our-research/groups-and-resource-centre/critical-fashion-studies">research</a> examined the impact modern slavery laws have had on consumer awareness about ethical fashion, as part of a larger project on <a href="https://pursuit.unimelb.edu.au/articles/rebelling-against-modern-slavery">modern slavery</a>. </p>
<p>We surveyed over a hundred participants, conducting additional interviews with 22 of them via Zoom during July and August 2020. They told us that although they felt well informed about the broader issues, they struggled with knowing what was truly ethical or sustainable at the point of purchasing an item.</p>
<p>Our work coincides with research, released by <a href="https://www.oxfam.org.au/">Oxfam</a> today, showing big Australian fashion brands entrench worker inequality and poverty — especially for women — with unethical businesses practices. </p>
<h2>Modern slavery</h2>
<p>The introduction of the <a href="https://theconversation.com/at-last-australia-has-a-modern-slavery-act-heres-what-youll-need-to-know-107885">Modern Slavery Act</a> in 2018 made Australia one of only a handful of places with legislated reporting requirements on modern slavery practices. The Act requires large companies to report on the supply chains that sustain their businesses. It also potentially serves to reassure consumers about where and how their clothes are made. Or does it? </p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/366923/original/file-20201102-21-6kafsa.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="Women working in clothing factory in Indonesia." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/366923/original/file-20201102-21-6kafsa.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/366923/original/file-20201102-21-6kafsa.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/366923/original/file-20201102-21-6kafsa.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/366923/original/file-20201102-21-6kafsa.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/366923/original/file-20201102-21-6kafsa.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/366923/original/file-20201102-21-6kafsa.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/366923/original/file-20201102-21-6kafsa.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Workers in the global fashion supply chain, such as these Indonesian seamstresses, come under Australia’s modern slavery laws.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1603782637810-95d06f1d5663?ixlib=rb-1.2.1&ixid=eyJhcHBfaWQiOjEyMDd9&auto=format&fit=crop&w=2850&q=80">Rio Lecatompessy/Unsplash</a>, <a class="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/">CC BY</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Many of our research participants felt overwhelmed when trying to locate and interpret information about where, how and by whom their garments are made. One interviewee said:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I feel really conflicted because [Japanese megastore] Uniqlo is so good for basics and often they’re made out of good materials like linen but I know that they are not great, not very sustainable, not very ethical … it’s hard.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Those wanting to be “conscious consumers” find that they need to get acquainted with accreditation and certification systems, stay up to date with ethical shopping guides, and know what it means for garment workers to receive a <a href="https://fbe.unimelb.edu.au/newsroom/explainer-what-exactly-is-a-living-wage">living wage</a> or be a <a href="https://labourbehindthelabel.org/our-work/trade-unions/">union member</a>. </p>
<p>Participants also recognised that the time, energy and resources necessary to make informed decisions are not available to everyone. </p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/is-the-dress-green-or-red-planet-friendly-couture-wont-be-for-everyone-but-it-can-lead-the-way-131469">Is the dress green or red? Planet-friendly couture won't be for everyone but it can lead the way</a>
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</em>
</p>
<hr>
<h2>Wary of spin</h2>
<p>Many participants were deeply sceptical of the corporate packaging of sustainability and ethical production. The renewed popularity of <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/apr/25/the-vintage-comeback-is-it-the-solution-to-sustainable-shopping">secondhand and vintage fashion</a> indicates some consumers are <a href="https://nymag.com/strategist/article/best-sustainable-clothing-brands-women.html?utm_medium=s1&utm_campaign=nym&utm_source=tw">mitigating confusion</a> by opting out of buying new things altogether.</p>
<p>Nevertheless, there is considerable trust for flagship eco-brands such as Patagonia, as well as smaller labels that connect consumers with the garment maker or material sourced. The shoppers we interviewed said they trusted local fashion labels such as <a href="https://arnsdorf.com.au/">Arnsdorf</a> and online marketplaces such as <a href="https://wellmadeclothes.com.au/">Well Made Clothes</a> over larger corporate entities. </p>
<p>The fashion industry’s big retailers promote products that meet ethical or sustainable standards, such as David Jones’ <a href="https://www.davidjones.com/mindfully-made">Mindfully Made</a> collection, the Iconic’s <a href="https://www.theiconic.com.au/discover-considered/?page=1&sort=popularity">Considered Edit</a>, and Kmart’s partnership with the <a href="https://bettercotton.org/">Better Cotton Initiative</a>. </p>
<p>Very few participants were aware of the Australian Modern Slavery Act. Most believe that “modern slavery” refers only to “off-shore” production, not garment workers in Australia. In fact, the Act requires Australian businesses to report on modern slavery risks in both global and domestic operations. </p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/why-you-should-stop-buying-new-clothes-123881">Why you should stop buying new clothes</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<h2>Three good sources of information for conscious shoppers:</h2>
<p>• <a href="https://ethicalclothingaustralia.org.au/">Ethical Clothing Australia</a> provides ethical certification for Australian-manufactured fashion </p>
<p>• The <a href="https://baptistworldaid.org.au/resources/ethical-fashion-guide/">Baptist World Aid Fashion Report</a> includes rankings of how fashion brands have responded to COVID-19</p>
<p>• Oxfam has previously published an annual <a href="https://www.oxfam.org.au/what-we-do/workers-rights-2/corporate-accountability/naughty-or-nice-2019/">Naughty or Nice List</a>. Oxfam has released <a href="https://whatshemakes.oxfam.org.au/company-tracker/">a new report and company tracker</a> to show how big brands and their factories rate in terms of providing a living wage to workers — who are mostly women. Poor purchasing practices included aggressive price negotiation, inaccurate forecasting of orders, short lead times and last-minute changes to orders — all of which can make working conditions tougher. </p>
<p>Oxfam found that H&M Group performed relatively well on ratings by factories. Big W, Kmart and Target Australia were close behind, followed by Cotton On, Inditex (Zara) and Myer. The survey results show that factories rated The Just Group and Mosaic Brands as the worst performers.</p>
<p><div data-react-class="InstagramEmbed" data-react-props="{"url":"https://www.instagram.com/p/CENGvmcnBe2","accessToken":"127105130696839|b4b75090c9688d81dfd245afe6052f20"}"></div></p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/time-to-make-fast-fashion-a-problem-for-its-makers-not-charities-117977">Time to make fast fashion a problem for its makers, not charities</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<h2>What about when you <em>really</em> want it though?</h2>
<p>Our Modern Slavery consumer research indicates that shoppers recognise the challenges of conscious consumption and their own tendency to “suspend their ethics” when they feel overwhelmed by information, judge their need for an item as “urgent”, or are simply seduced by an appealing garment. </p>
<blockquote>
<p>The last thing I bought was actually totally different to my usual shopping habits … I bought a fast fashion thing [online], which I never do!</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Many shoppers reported buying consciously for themselves but giving up when it came to purchasing clothes for their children or other family members.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I would say the vast majority of what I buy for the kids is definitely not ethical.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Recognising consumers’ challenges and good intentions is crucial if we are to improve the ethics of the global fashion system. </p>
<p>Rather than simply increasing the number of certifications or accreditations brands should adhere to, our research suggests we would do better to increase consumer knowledge of those that already exist — and what they mean in practice.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/145935/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Natalya Lusty receives funding from the Australian Research Council</span></em></p><p class="fine-print"><em><span>Harriette Richards does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>We interviewed consumers about ethical fashion choices - they were well intentioned but overwhelmed. There are, however, some good sources of information for conscious shoppers.Harriette Richards, Honorary (Fellow) Cultural Studies, The University of MelbourneNatalya Lusty, Professor of Cultural Studies, The University of MelbourneLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/1439882020-09-07T20:11:33Z2020-09-07T20:11:33ZVegan leather made from mushrooms could mould the future of sustainable fashion<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/353527/original/file-20200819-25336-k8lpjy.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=36%2C183%2C4867%2C3081&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">
</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Shutterstock</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>Seven millennia since its <a href="https://www.britannica.com/topic/leather">invention</a>, leather remains one of the most durable and versatile natural materials. However, some consumers question the <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2016/mar/13/is-it-time-to-give-up-leather-animal-welfare-ethical-lucy-siegle">ethical ramifications</a> and <a href="https://www.ethicalgallery.com.au/blogs/ethical-gallery-blog/the-environmental-impact-of-animal-leather-vs-faux-leather">environmental sustainability</a> of wearing products sourced from animals.</p>
<p>This shift in social standards is the main reason we’re seeing a wave of synthetic substitutes heading for the market.</p>
<p>Leather alternatives produced from synthetic polymers fare better in terms of <a href="https://www.ethicalgallery.com.au/blogs/ethical-gallery-blog/the-environmental-impact-of-animal-leather-vs-faux-leather">environmental sustainability</a> and have achieved considerable <a href="https://leatherpanel.org/content/future-trends-and-expected-status-world-leather-and-leather-products-industry-and-trade-2010">market share</a> in recent years. </p>
<p>But these materials face the same disposal issues as any synthetic plastic. So, the leather market has begun to look to other innovations. As strange as it might sound, the latest contender is the humble fungus.</p>
<p>Research by my colleagues and I, published today in <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s41893-020-00606-1">Nature Sustainability</a>, investigates the history, manufacturing processes, cost, sustainability and material properties of fungus-derived renewable leather substitutes – comparing them to animal and synthetic leathers.</p>
<h2>How unsustainable is animal leather, actually?</h2>
<p>How sustainable leather is depends on how you look at it. As it uses animal skins, typically from cows, leather production is correlated with animal farming. Making it also requires environmentally toxic chemicals. </p>
<p>The livestock sector’s <a href="https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20190806-how-vaccines-could-fix-our-problem-with-cow-emissions">sustainability issues</a> are well known. <a href="http://www.fao.org/news/story/en/item/197623/icode/">According to</a> the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organisation, the sector is responsible for about 14% of all greenhouse emissions from human activity. Cattle rearing alone represents about 65% of those emissions. </p>
<p>Still, it’s worth noting the main product of cattle rearing is meat, not leather. Cow hides account for just 5-10% of the market value of a cow and about 7% of the animal’s weight. </p>
<p>There’s also no proven correlation between the demand for red meat and leather. So a reduction in the demand for leather may have no effect on the number of animals slaughtered for meat.</p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="Cattle looking at the camera" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/353392/original/file-20200818-14-12ze6ih.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/353392/original/file-20200818-14-12ze6ih.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=402&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353392/original/file-20200818-14-12ze6ih.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=402&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353392/original/file-20200818-14-12ze6ih.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=402&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353392/original/file-20200818-14-12ze6ih.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=505&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353392/original/file-20200818-14-12ze6ih.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=505&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353392/original/file-20200818-14-12ze6ih.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=505&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">According to 2019 figures from the Australian Bureau of Statistics, about 49% of all Australian farms carry beef cattle and these manage more than 79% of all agricultural land.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">freestocks.org/Pexels</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>That said, leather tanning is still energy- and resource-intensive and produces a lot of <a href="https://leatherpanel.org/sites/default/files/publications-attachments/leather_carbon_footprint_p.pdf">sludge waste</a> during processing. </p>
<p>This gives leather a higher environmental impact than other minimally processed animal products such as blood, heads and organs (which can be sold as meat products or animal feed).</p>
<h2>From spore to mat</h2>
<p>Fungus-derived leather technologies were first patented by US companies <a href="https://www.mycoworks.com/">MycoWorks</a> and <a href="https://ecovativedesign.com/">Ecovative Design</a> about five years ago.</p>
<p>These technologies take advantage of the root-like structure of mushrooms, called <a href="https://blogs.scientificamerican.com/observations/the-mycelium-revolution-is-upon-us/">mycelium</a>, which contains the same polymer found in crab shells.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/353524/original/file-20200819-42876-4aie85.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="A root-like mycelium structure grows underground." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/353524/original/file-20200819-42876-4aie85.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/353524/original/file-20200819-42876-4aie85.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353524/original/file-20200819-42876-4aie85.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353524/original/file-20200819-42876-4aie85.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353524/original/file-20200819-42876-4aie85.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353524/original/file-20200819-42876-4aie85.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353524/original/file-20200819-42876-4aie85.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Mycelium is the vegetative body for fungi that produces mushrooms. Fungal colonies made of mycelium can be found in and on soil and wood.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Shutterstock</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>When mushroom roots are grown on sawdust or agricultural waste, they form a thick mat that can then be treated to resemble leather. </p>
<p>Because it’s the roots and not the mushrooms being used, this natural biological process can be carried out anywhere. It does not require light, converts waste into useful materials and stores carbon by accumulating it in the growing fungus.</p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="A petri dish with fungal spores on the left and a natural fungal mat on the right." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/353396/original/file-20200818-20-k4jqvk.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/353396/original/file-20200818-20-k4jqvk.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=378&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353396/original/file-20200818-20-k4jqvk.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=378&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353396/original/file-20200818-20-k4jqvk.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=378&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353396/original/file-20200818-20-k4jqvk.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=475&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353396/original/file-20200818-20-k4jqvk.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=475&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353396/original/file-20200818-20-k4jqvk.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=475&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Going from fungal spores on a Petri dish (left) to a natural fungal mat (right) takes just a couple of weeks.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Antoni Gandia</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Going from a single spore to a finished “fungi leather” (or “mycelium leather”) product takes a couple of weeks, compared with years required to raise a cow to maturity.</p>
<p>Mild acids, alcohols and dyes are typically used to modify the fungal material, which is then compressed, dried and embossed. </p>
<p>The process is quite simple and can be completed with minimal equipment and resources by artisans. It can also be industrially scaled for mass production. The final product looks and feels like animal leather and has <a href="https://www.madewithreishi.com/">similar durability</a>.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/353525/original/file-20200819-42876-ikr13l.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="Mycelium-derived leather hanging from wire" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/353525/original/file-20200819-42876-ikr13l.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/353525/original/file-20200819-42876-ikr13l.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353525/original/file-20200819-42876-ikr13l.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353525/original/file-20200819-42876-ikr13l.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353525/original/file-20200819-42876-ikr13l.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353525/original/file-20200819-42876-ikr13l.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353525/original/file-20200819-42876-ikr13l.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">MOGU is one company producing materials and products from fungal mycelium.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/arselectronica/42706992340/in/photolist-284SuW9-2aPHL5V-26SBgCj-2j3jYqF/">Ars Electronica/Flickr</a>, <a class="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/">CC BY-NC-ND</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<h2>Mushroom for progress</h2>
<p>It’s important to remember despite years of development, this technology is still in its infancy. Traditional leather production has been refined to perfection over thousands of years. </p>
<p>There are bound to be some teething problems when adopting fungal leather. And despite its biodegradability and low-energy manufacturing, this product alone won’t be enough to solve the sustainability crisis.</p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/will-we-soon-be-growing-our-own-vegan-leather-at-home-68498">Will we soon be growing our own vegan leather at home?</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<p>There are wider environmental concerns over animal farming and the proliferation of plastics – both of which are independent of leather production.</p>
<p>Nonetheless, using creativity to harness new technologies can only be a step in the right direction. As the world continues its gradual shift towards sustainable living, perhaps seeing progress in one domain will inspire hope for others.</p>
<h2>Will I be wearing it anytime soon?</h2>
<p>Commercial products made with fungi-derived leather are expected to be on sale soon – so the real question is whether it will cost you an arm and a leg. </p>
<p>Prototypes were released last year in the <a href="https://boltthreads.com/technology/mylo">US</a>, <a href="http://pura.mogu.bio/">Italy</a> and <a href="https://mycl.bio/mylea">Indonesia</a>, in products including watches, purses, bags and shoes.</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/353800/original/file-20200820-14-1vgpe5j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="A black and brown mycelium leather bag." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/353800/original/file-20200820-14-1vgpe5j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/353800/original/file-20200820-14-1vgpe5j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=778&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353800/original/file-20200820-14-1vgpe5j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=778&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353800/original/file-20200820-14-1vgpe5j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=778&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353800/original/file-20200820-14-1vgpe5j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=977&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353800/original/file-20200820-14-1vgpe5j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=977&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/353800/original/file-20200820-14-1vgpe5j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=977&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">US-based startup Bolt Threads has used myceliym leather to successfully create products such as this bag.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://boltthreads.com/technology/mylo/">Bolt Threads</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>And while these fundraiser items were a little pricey – with one designer bag selling for US$500 – manufacturing cost estimates indicate the material could become economically competitive with traditional leather once manufactured on a larger scale. </p>
<p>The signs are promising. MycoWorks raised US$17 million in venture capital <a href="https://vcnewsdaily.com/mycoworks/venture-capital-funding/sgvptckpch">last year</a>. </p>
<p>Ultimately, there’s no good reason fungal leather alternatives couldn’t eventually replace animal leather in many consumer products. </p>
<p>So next time you pass the mushrooms at the supermarket, make sure you acquaint yourself. You may be seeing a whole lot more of each other soon.</p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/could-fungi-save-the-fashion-world-122894">Could fungi save the fashion world?</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/143988/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Mitchell P. Jones does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>Going from a single spore to a finished fungi-derived leather product takes a couple of weeks. But raising a cow to maturity for bovine leather can take several years.Mitchell P. Jones, Postdoctoral researcher, TU WienLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/1390822020-06-02T11:57:05Z2020-06-02T11:57:05Z‘Plastic-free’ fashion is not as clean or green as it seems<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/338890/original/file-20200601-95042-ct6jaj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=43%2C25%2C5708%2C3802&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Natural fabrics could be as bad for the environment as their synthetic counterparts. </span> <span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/dried-laundry-503768179">kazoka/Shutterstock</a></span></figcaption></figure><p>We have all become more aware of the environmental impact of our clothing choices. The fashion industry has seen a rise in “green”, “eco” and “sustainable” clothing. This includes an increase in the use of natural fibres, such as wool, hemp, and cotton, as synthetic fabrics, like polyester, acrylic and nylon, have been vilified by some. </p>
<p>However, the push to go “natural” obscures a more complex picture. </p>
<p>Natural fibres in fashion garments are products of multiple transformation processes, most of which are reliant on intensive manufacturing as well as advanced chemical manipulation. </p>
<p>While they are presumed to biodegrade, the extent to which they do has been contested by a handful of studies. Natural fibres can be preserved over <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1179/019713601806113076?casa_token=bRGHIwSX3D0AAAAA:AZPcBwR0jH2rI4sQCIoXL2si3xpv_qvo74XnhFX7-1SIJtaUPxqSjrmYryZEurcXLcm_8TehVQ">centuries</a> and even <a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00339-006-3516-1">millennia</a> in certain environments. Where fibres are found to degrade <a href="https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acs.est.5b04754">they may release chemicals, for example from dyes, into the environment</a>.</p>
<p>When they have been found in environmental samples, natural textile fibres are often present in <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0025326X18300122" title=") and [sometimes higher](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0048969719307764 ">comparable</a> concentrations than their plastic alternatives. Yet, very little is known of their environmental impact. </p>
<p>Therefore, until they do biodegrade, natural fibres will present the same physical threat as plastic fibres. And, unlike plastic fibres, the interactions between natural fibres and common chemical pollutants and pathogens are not fully understood.</p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/336783/original/file-20200521-102628-vny5kj.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/336783/original/file-20200521-102628-vny5kj.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=283&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/336783/original/file-20200521-102628-vny5kj.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=283&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/336783/original/file-20200521-102628-vny5kj.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=283&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/336783/original/file-20200521-102628-vny5kj.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=356&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/336783/original/file-20200521-102628-vny5kj.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=356&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/336783/original/file-20200521-102628-vny5kj.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=356&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
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<span class="caption">Natural and plastic fibres have similar structures. From left to right these fibres are wool, cotton, and polyester.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="license">Author provided</span></span>
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</figure>
<h2>Fashion’s environmental footprint</h2>
<p>It is within this scientific context that fashion’s marketing of alternative fibre use is problematic. However well-intentioned, moves to find alternatives to plastic fibres pose real risks of exacerbating the unknown environmental impacts of non-plastic particles.</p>
<p>To assert that all these problems can be resolved by buying “natural” simplifies the environmental crisis we face. To promote different fibre use without fully understanding its environmental ramifications suggests a disingenuous engagement with environmental action. It incites “superficial green” purchasing that exploits a culture of plastic anxiety. Their message is clear: buy differently, buy “better”, but don’t stop buying.</p>
<p>Yet the “better” and “alternative” fashion products are not without complex social and environmental injustices. Cotton, for example, is widely grown in countries with <a href="https://www.embopress.org/doi/full/10.15252/embr.201846701">little legislation protecting the environment and human health</a>.</p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/339149/original/file-20200602-133919-1ls6qq2.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/339149/original/file-20200602-133919-1ls6qq2.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/339149/original/file-20200602-133919-1ls6qq2.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/339149/original/file-20200602-133919-1ls6qq2.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/339149/original/file-20200602-133919-1ls6qq2.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/339149/original/file-20200602-133919-1ls6qq2.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/339149/original/file-20200602-133919-1ls6qq2.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
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<span class="caption">Intensive irrigation of cotton plantations in the deserts of the western Soviet Union prevented water reaching the Aral Sea, leading to the drastically low levels we see today.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/rustic-boats-on-ship-graveyards-desert-328957481">Milosz Maslanka/Shutterstock</a></span>
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</figure>
<p>The drying up of the Aral Sea in central Asia, formally the fourth largest lake in the world, is associated with the <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/sustainable-fashion-blog/2014/oct/01/cotton-production-linked-to-images-of-the-dried-up-aral-sea-basin">irrigation of cotton fields</a> that dry up the rivers that feed it. This has decimated <a href="https://theconversation.com/humans-drained-the-aral-sea-once-before-but-there-are-no-free-refills-this-time-round-32513">biodiversity</a> and devastated the region’s fishing industry. The processing of natural fibres into garments is also a major source of chemical pollution, where factory wastewaters are discharged into freshwater systems, <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/apr/07/fast-fashion-speeding-toward-environmental-disaster-report-warns">often with little or no treatment</a>.</p>
<p><a href="http://aboutorganiccotton.org/organic-certification/">Organic cotton</a> and <a href="https://www.woolmark.com/certification/">Woolmark</a> wool are perhaps the most <a href="https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/ladies/shop-by-feature/conscious-products-explained.html">well known</a> natural fabrics being used. Their certified fibres represent a welcomed material change, introducing to the marketplace new fibres that have codified, improved production standards. However, they still contribute fibrous particles into the environment over their lifetime.</p>
<p>More generally, fashion’s systemic low pay, deadly working conditions, and extreme environmental degradation demonstrate that too often our affordable fashion purchases come at a higher price to somebody and somewhere. </p>
<h2>Slow down fast fashion</h2>
<p>It is clear then that a radical change to our purchasing habits is required to address fashion’s environmental crisis. A crisis that is not defined by plastic pollution alone. </p>
<p>We must reassess and change our attitudes towards our clothing and reform the whole lifecycle of our garments. This means making differently, buying less and buying second hand. It also means owning for longer, repurposing, remaking and mending.</p>
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Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/fixing-our-throwaway-fashion-culture-will-take-far-more-than-a-1p-tax-112047">Fixing our throwaway fashion culture will take far more than a 1p tax</a>
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<p>Fashion’s role in the plastic pollution problem has contributed to emotive headlines, in which purchasing plastic-fibred clothing has become highly moralised. In buying plastic-fibred garments, consumers are framed complicit in <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/jun/20/microfibers-plastic-pollution-oceans-patagonia-synthetic-clothes-microbeads">poisoning the oceans and food supply</a>. These limited discourses shift accountability onto the consumer to “buy natural”. However, they do little to equally challenge the environmental and social ills of these natural fibres and the retailers’ responsibilities to them.</p>
<p>The increased availability of these “natural” fashion products therefore fails to fundamentally challenge the industry’s most polluting logic – fast, continual consumption and speedy routine discard. This only entrenches a purchasable, commodified form of environmental action – “buying natural”. It stops the more fundamental reassessment of fast fashion’s “business as usual”, that we must slow.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/139082/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Kieran Phelan received funding from the Economic and Social Research Council for his PhD research project. . </span></em></p><p class="fine-print"><em><span>Thomas Stanton does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>While natural fibre textiles like cotton have generated an environmentally friendly reputation in recent years they might be just as bad as microplastic textiles like polyester and Nylon.Thomas Stanton, PhD researcher in the Geography and Department of Chemical and Environmental Engineering, University of NottinghamKieran Phelan, PhD Researcher in economic geography, University of NottinghamLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/1273222020-02-12T19:14:38Z2020-02-12T19:14:38ZIf you don’t eat meat but still wear leather, here are a few facts to chew on<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/311253/original/file-20200121-117949-vaz56x.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=531%2C0%2C4333%2C3308&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">
</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Shutterstock</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>The numbers of vegans in Australia <a href="https://www.abc.net.au/news/science/2019-04-09/vegans-australia-red-meat-declining/10980270">is on the rise</a> – for many, ruling animal products out of their diet is a relatively straightforward decision. But deciding whether to eschew leather products can be more challenging. </p>
<p>For non-meat eaters who do buy leather, the rationale is usually something like this: if meat is being produced anyway, and it generates a handy by-product such as leather, why not use it rather than waste it? </p>
<p>But there is evidence leather is driving, or at least supporting, the profitability of animal harvesting in some cases. This raises serious moral questions for anyone who cares about animals but still buys leather products.</p>
<h2>Kangaroo leather: a case in point</h2>
<p>I’m a social policy expert who specialises in animal welfare legislation and ethics. I have also been vegan for about 20 years, mostly out of a moral opposition to factory farming.</p>
<p>Between 2001 and 2004 I worked for the <a href="https://www.wlpa.org">World League for Protection of Animals</a>, which was part of a global campaign <a href="https://www.viva.org.uk/what-we-do/about-us/media-centre/media-releases/victory-claimed-nike-plan-drop-cruel-kangaroo">against the use of kangaroo leather</a> in sports shoes.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.smh.com.au/business/consumer-affairs/kangaroo-meat-puts-commercial-industry-and-animal-welfare-groups-into-conflict-20160721-gqadyg.html">Proponents of kangaroo harvesting</a> argue it helps control numbers and the animals are killed humanely.</p>
<p>But kangaroos are shot at night, from a distance, and their heads are small. This means they can not always be killed humanely with a single shot to the brain. According to the national <a href="https://www.environment.gov.au/system/files/resources/8ae26c87-fb7c-4ddc-b5df-02039cf1483e/files/code-conduct-non-commercial.pdf">code of practice</a>, once a mother has been shot, joeys should be killed by decapitation or a blow to the head.</p>
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Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/riding-on-the-kangaroos-back-animal-skin-fashion-exports-and-ethical-trade-130207">Riding on the kangaroo's back: animal skin fashion, exports and ethical trade</a>
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<p>The sale of kangaroo leather <a href="https://academic.oup.com/af/article/4/4/38/4638811">boosts the value</a> of the animal and has long been considered the <a href="https://www.environment.gov.au/node/16678">backbone of the industry</a>. The leather is sold at a premium for use in leather clothing and footballs.</p>
<p>The meat, meanwhile, is often used <a href="https://www.abc.net.au/news/rural/2019-10-02/kangaroo-pet-food-trial-becomes-permanent/11564246">in Australia as pet food</a> or <a href="https://www.bbc.com/news/world-australia-41227521">sold at low prices to export markets</a>.</p>
<p>Similarly, <a href="https://macaulay.webarchive.hutton.ac.uk/livestocksystems/feasibility/ostrich.htm">research shows</a> the market for hide drives the ostrich farming industry in South Africa. </p>
<figure class="align-right ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/314388/original/file-20200210-52351-lrh82x.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/314388/original/file-20200210-52351-lrh82x.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=902&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/314388/original/file-20200210-52351-lrh82x.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=902&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/314388/original/file-20200210-52351-lrh82x.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=902&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/314388/original/file-20200210-52351-lrh82x.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1133&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/314388/original/file-20200210-52351-lrh82x.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1133&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/314388/original/file-20200210-52351-lrh82x.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1133&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
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<span class="caption">Luxurious calfskin comes from newborn calves, and sometimes even from calf fetuses.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Shutterstock</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>In the beef industry, all byproducts <a href="https://www.fb.org/market-intel/tariffs-hit-the-hide-market">add to the overall value</a> of the animal, and hides comprise the biggest share.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.nytimes.com/roomfordebate/2011/09/25/ban-fur-then-why-not-leather/bringing-attention-to-the-fur-industry">And as has been reported</a>, luxuriously soft calfskin is not necessarily a byproduct of the beef industry – it can come from newborn calves or even <a href="https://www.chichesterinc.com/CalfSkinsUnborn.htm">calf fetuses</a>. </p>
<h2>The animal welfare picture</h2>
<p>Cow leather produced in Australia is subject to state laws and codes regulating animal welfare, transport and slaughter.</p>
<p>These guidelines <a href="https://www.abc.net.au/news/2019-08-02/video-footage-reveals-alleged-cruelty-at-illegal-slaughterhouse/11375854">don’t always stop</a> the abuse of animals at slaughterhouses. However overseas, the laws can be even more lax. </p>
<p>China has <a href="https://www.policyforum.net/tackling-animal-cruelty-china/">almost no laws</a> preventing animal cruelty, and <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/business/2016/jul/31/dog-cat-leather-china-us-congress-trade-peta">investigations have revealed</a> dogs being slaughtered and exported to the United States as traditional leather. </p>
<p>To Hindus in India, cows are <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/national/religion/the-splainer-what-makes-the-cow-sacred-to-hindus/2015/11/05/acdde3e2-840c-11e5-8bd2-680fff868306_story.html">considered sacred</a>. But an estimated 1.5 million cows a year are <a href="https://www.independent.co.uk/environment/nature/nothings-sacred-the-illegal-trade-in-indias-holy-cows-7808483.html">smuggled into</a> neighbouring Bangladesh <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8-IeuG4jLw">to be slaughtered</a>, often in rudimentary conditions. </p>
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Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/five-weird-and-wonderful-ways-nature-is-being-harnessed-to-build-a-sustainable-fashion-industry-119840">Five weird and wonderful ways nature is being harnessed to build a sustainable fashion industry</a>
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<p>However it should be noted that <a href="https://theconversation.com/banning-exotic-leather-in-fashion-hurts-snakes-and-crocodiles-in-the-long-run-114173">some academics</a> say the leather industry can benefit some animal species. Their research shows that using exotic animals such as crocodiles, lizards and snakes for their skins gives those species a financial value. This drives local efforts to conserve habitat and prevents the animals from being harvested to extinction.</p>
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<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/314886/original/file-20200212-61929-15jhwd8.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/314886/original/file-20200212-61929-15jhwd8.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/314886/original/file-20200212-61929-15jhwd8.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/314886/original/file-20200212-61929-15jhwd8.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/314886/original/file-20200212-61929-15jhwd8.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/314886/original/file-20200212-61929-15jhwd8.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/314886/original/file-20200212-61929-15jhwd8.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
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<span class="caption">Indonesians gather after a crocodile killing spree in 2018. Some researchers say the animal hide trade can help conserve a species.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">EPA</span></span>
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<h2>Environmental and social harms</h2>
<p>Leather production – and its negative side effects – is concentrated <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/earth-and-planetary-sciences/leather-industry">in developing countries</a>, which raises a new lot of ethical questions.</p>
<p>Turning the skin of an animal into leather is chemically-intensive and polluting.</p>
<p>For example in Hazaribagh, a leather producing region in Bangladesh, untreated waste from leather tanneries <a href="https://pulitzercenter.org/reporting/bangladesh-toxic-tannerie">reportedly runs through</a> open canals while inside the tanneries the work is dangerous and child labor is common.</p>
<p>The <a href="https://msi.higg.org/page/learn-more">Higg Materials Sustainability Index</a>, measures the environmental sustainability of materials used in garment production. In 2017, cow leather received the <a href="http://globalfashionagenda.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Pulse-of-the-Fashion-Industry_2017.pdf">worst ranking</a> of any material. </p>
<h2>Is faux leather the answer?</h2>
<p>The market has responded to some people’s aversion to leather. Vegan fashionista Stella McCartney uses “vegetarian leather” which is actually recycled polyester. She claims this <a href="https://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/us/sustainability/themes/materials-and-innovation/vegetarian-leather/">“creates 24 times less of an environmental impact”</a>.</p>
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Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/sustainable-shopping-how-to-rock-white-sneakers-without-eco-guilt-85989">Sustainable shopping: how to rock white sneakers without eco-guilt</a>
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<p>Among participants at the <a href="https://www.copenhagenfashionsummit.com">Copenhagen Fashion Summit</a>, a leading business event promoting sustainable fashion, it seems to be an article of faith that faux, synthetic or lab-produced leather is better for the environment.</p>
<p>But of course, the production of faux leather uses more energy than simply using the shoes and bags already in our wardrobes. </p>
<h2>A personal choice</h2>
<p>If you really love wearing leather but have animal welfare concerns, you might buy it second-hand. I’ve not gone down that path, because I believe wearing any leather normalises the practice. </p>
<p>There are signs public attitudes to leather are changing. In the United States for example, consumers are eating more beef but <a href="https://www.latimes.com/business/story/2019-08-18/america-is-obsessed-with-beef-but-it-has-no-use-for-hides-so-leather-prices-plunge">leather demand has recently dropped</a> – a change attributed to <a href="https://www.peta.org/living/personal-care-fashion/vegan-eco-clothing-belongs-in-your-closet/">synthetic alternatives</a> and changing fashion tastes.</p>
<p>Ultimately, the decision whether to wear leather is a personal one. But before you buy your next leather product, do your research and consider whether your purchase might contribute to the animal welfare problem.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/127322/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Siobhan O'Sullivan does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>Leather isn’t just a by-product of the meat industry, and raises serious moral questions for anyone who cares about animal rights.Siobhan O'Sullivan, Senior Lecturer in Social Policy, UNSW SydneyLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/1286242020-01-26T19:06:02Z2020-01-26T19:06:02ZHow a year of trying to buy nothing made me a smarter shopper and a better teacher<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/311714/original/file-20200123-162246-muon4y.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=0%2C0%2C4618%2C3228&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Year 7 students at the International School of Helsinki, Finland, doing a sustainable development exercise with the author (top left) and fellow teacher Rachael Thrash.</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Katja Lehtonen</span>, <span class="license">Author provided</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>It started as a New Year’s resolution driven by guilt and a touch of sibling rivalry – but by the end of the year, it taught me valuable lessons as a teacher, including about the benefits of failure.</p>
<p>At Christmas dinner 2018, my sister declared she would buy nothing for a year. After living in Bangladesh for two years, she had seen how the world’s fashion industry was wreaking havoc on the country’s people and environment.</p>
<p>I decided to follow her lead. As an Australian living in Finland, I still can’t imagine going a year without a flight home to see family. So buying nothing (apart from groceries) would do something to offset all those carbon-costly air miles. </p>
<p>I’m also a high school humanities teacher, and realised what I was learning while trying to buy nothing could prove useful in a classroom. </p>
<h2>Modelling behaviour</h2>
<p>The effectiveness of <a href="https://psychology.iresearchnet.com/social-psychology/control/modeling-of-behavior/">“modelling”</a> – demonstrating a behaviour, which is then observed and imitated by someone else – as a <a href="http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.464.9530&rep=rep1&type=pdf">teaching strategy</a> has long been known in <a href="http://www.stiftelsen-hvasser.no/documents/Bandura_Human_Agency_in_social_Cognitiv_theory.pdf">education literature</a>. There is <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.3200/JOEE.38.1.39-53">recent evidence</a> to suggest modelling is an effective strategy in education for sustainable development too. </p>
<p>Given this research, I thought modelling sustainable and ethical decision-making while teaching could prompt some interesting discussions, without needing to preach to my students.</p>
<p>This is known as <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/097340820700100209">education for sustainable development 1</a> (ESD1), where the goal is to raise awareness and change students’ behaviours. ESD1 has also been called <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/097340821100500208">instrumental ESD</a>. It’s widely used in teacher training courses and school curricula around the world. It involves encouraging students to learn how their behaviours impact the environment, and what behaviours they could substitute or modify to reduce their ecological footprint.</p>
<p>However, some <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/097340820700100209">researchers</a> argue this type of education for sustainable development is not enough, and advocate also including <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/097340821100500208">emancipatory education for sustainable development</a>, or ESD2. Its goal is to build students’ capacity in more innovative, critical thinking about sustainable development. </p>
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Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/involving-kids-in-making-schools-sustainable-spreads-the-message-beyond-the-classroom-119470">Involving kids in making schools sustainable spreads the message beyond the classroom</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<h2>How I applied modelling in my classroom</h2>
<p>As I began my year of buying nothing, I was about to start teaching Year 7 students a unit called “Progress: At What Cost?”. It examines the parallels between the first industrial revolution – a time of extraordinary change, but also labour exploitation, colonisation and huge increases in pollution – and the challenges from progress today, including from climate change, structural inequalities and the technological revolution.</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/311717/original/file-20200123-162228-f6kehy.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/311717/original/file-20200123-162228-f6kehy.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/311717/original/file-20200123-162228-f6kehy.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/311717/original/file-20200123-162228-f6kehy.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/311717/original/file-20200123-162228-f6kehy.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/311717/original/file-20200123-162228-f6kehy.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/311717/original/file-20200123-162228-f6kehy.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/311717/original/file-20200123-162228-f6kehy.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Year 7 International School of Helsinki students pitching ideas at their innovation fair.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="license">Author provided</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>A combination of humanities, English, science and design, the unit culminates with an innovation fair. The students choose one of the United Nation’s <a href="https://sustainabledevelopment.un.org/?menu=1300">Sustainable Development Goals</a> to solve, and at the fair, students, teachers and parents walk around with $1000 in pretend “seed money” to “invest” with the students whose solutions they like best.</p>
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<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/311734/original/file-20200124-81352-hstmhp.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/311734/original/file-20200124-81352-hstmhp.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/311734/original/file-20200124-81352-hstmhp.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/311734/original/file-20200124-81352-hstmhp.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/311734/original/file-20200124-81352-hstmhp.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/311734/original/file-20200124-81352-hstmhp.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/311734/original/file-20200124-81352-hstmhp.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/311734/original/file-20200124-81352-hstmhp.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Students trying to win ‘investment’ for their ideas at the innovation fair.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="license">Author provided</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>I’ve come to see these two strands of education for sustainable development as complementary. The first, more concrete ESD1 – learning about the global supply chain, our ecological footprints and low-carbon alternatives – allows students to see the impact of their actions today. ESD2 encourages students to imagine the challenges they might face in future, as well as new solutions.</p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/climate-explained-why-some-people-still-think-climate-change-isnt-real-124763">Climate explained: why some people still think climate change isn't real</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<h2>My failures produced the best lessons</h2>
<p>If I think about what improved in my classroom because of my new year’s resolution, the biggest gains in my students’ and my own thinking came from discussing my failures. </p>
<p>I didn’t make it the whole year without buying anything. I bought four things: food containers so I could avoid plastic wrap, new running shoes when my old ones began falling apart, a secondhand bike after mine was stolen and a secondhand phone when mine died in a storm.</p>
<p>I went about a week without a phone. It turned out I was as addicted to it as the teenagers in my class. This sparked a conversation about smart phones, screen-time and social media addiction as added costs of progress, and a class challenge to go tech-free for 24 hours. Two students out of the 36 in my class made it. I didn’t.</p>
<p>I decided to buy a secondhand “new” phone. I talked to my students about my checklist of sustainable consumption questions, which helped me buy almost nothing all year:</p>
<ol>
<li> Could I go without it? (No, as it turned out with my phone: I am an addict.)</li>
<li> Could I repair what I had? (I tried drying my old phone out in a bag of rice for two days, but it didn’t work.)</li>
<li> Could I buy a secondhand one? (Yes! I got one from <a href="https://swappie.com/en/">Swappie</a>.)</li>
</ol>
<h2>What I saved and learned</h2>
<p>As my year of buying almost nothing in 2019 came to a close, I had no motivation to hit the post-holiday sales. I’d also saved at least few thousand dollars, which instead went towards paying off my mortgage and more meals out with friends.</p>
<p>At the beginning of this new school year, I don’t pretend to have all the answers about living sustainably. But as a consumer and as a teacher, there’s a lot I can do. I can support my students’ activism, including if they choose to join a <a href="https://fridaysforfuture.org/">Fridays for future</a> school strike for the climate. I can support – and challenge – their critical reasoning capacity in our classrooms the rest of the week. Each of us can make a difference – and we can all start by practising what we preach.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/128624/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Ellen Heyting consults to InspireCitizens.org and CultivatingConnectionsThatMatter.org</span></em></p>My year of buying almost nothing saved me thousands of dollars – but also taught me valuable lessons as a teacher, including about the benefits of failure.Ellen Heyting, PhD student in Education and Head of Years 11 and 12, Monash UniversityLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/1198402019-08-27T12:16:05Z2019-08-27T12:16:05ZFive weird and wonderful ways nature is being harnessed to build a sustainable fashion industry<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/289641/original/file-20190827-184229-11kfo12.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=2%2C3%2C750%2C497&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Enzymatic textile dyes.</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="license">Author provided</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>One of the greatest challenges faced by the textiles and fashion industry is to make itself more sustainable, not just in terms of economic and labour force issues but in the face of ecological necessity. The production of textiles involves a long chain of complex processes to convert raw materials such as fibres or petroleum into finished fabrics or fashion products. </p>
<p>These processes are <a href="http://www.wrap.org.uk/sustainable-textiles">typically</a> resource intensive, requiring high concentrations of chemicals, large amounts of water and involving high temperatures and long processing times. This commonly results in high energy consumption and waste.</p>
<p>A transition towards a more sustainable textiles and fashion sector requires approaches that can minimise its environmental and social impacts, therefore opting for cleaner manufacturing processes which can dramatically reduce carbon emissions and water use and eliminate the use of harmful chemicals. </p>
<p>Here are five ways nature is being explored by individuals, research teams and industry to help make fashion more sustainable. Scientists are uncovering and exploiting underlying mechanisms and models found in nature to design new materials, processes and products as well as systems of production for the future. </p>
<p>These range from traditional to contemporary processes that use low or high-tech methods, practised by artists in their studios to scientists in labs or artists and scientists working together collaboratively. </p>
<h2>Enzymes as new design tools</h2>
<p><a href="https://www.chemistryworld.com/feature/the-enzyme-hunters/8306.article">Enzymes</a> are highly specific <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/chemistry/biocatalyst">biocatalysts</a> found within the cells of all living organisms. They offer the possibility of manufacturing textiles using simpler and less severe processing conditions which can reduce the consumption of chemicals, energy and water and the generation of waste. As a result, enzymes have successfully replaced a range of industrial textile processes, since they started being used in the <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/232089163_Application_of_enzymes_for_textile_fibres_processing">early part of the 20th century</a>.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/neuroscience/cellulase">Cellulases</a> and another group of enzymes called <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/neuroscience/laccase">laccases</a> are used in the production of stonewashed denim fabrics and garments. Stonewashed effects on indigo dyed cotton denim used to be created by pumice stones – but the use of pumice stones caused damage to both fibres and machines. </p>
<p>Working with colleagues from De Montfort University, I have been investigating the possibilities of using <a href="https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12350">laccase</a> and <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.11.079">protease</a> as creative design tools to make industrial textile processes more sustainable. </p>
<p>In our research we used enzymes to synthesise <a href="https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12350">textile dyes</a> and pattern fabrics using ambient processing conditions, such as temperatures as low as 50°C at atmospheric pressure. We now have ways to create many different colours with just a slight alteration of processing conditions, reacting enzymes and compounds together in various different conditions in a technique that eliminates the need to use pre-manufactured dyes.</p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/289599/original/file-20190827-184192-18k1s2e.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/289599/original/file-20190827-184192-18k1s2e.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=1115&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/289599/original/file-20190827-184192-18k1s2e.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=1115&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/289599/original/file-20190827-184192-18k1s2e.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=1115&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/289599/original/file-20190827-184192-18k1s2e.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1401&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/289599/original/file-20190827-184192-18k1s2e.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1401&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/289599/original/file-20190827-184192-18k1s2e.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1401&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Examples of one-step laccase-catalysed coloration of textiles.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Author</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<h2>New ways to make leather</h2>
<p><strong>From collagen:</strong> The area of synthetic biology is growing at a rapid rate, and as a result many companies such as New York-based Modern Meadow are exploring the possibilities this area of modern science offers. The company has successfully bio-fabricated a <a href="http://www.modernmeadow.com/">leather alternative called Zoa</a>. </p>
<p><div data-react-class="Tweet" data-react-props="{"tweetId":"1081564486992084992"}"></div></p>
<p>The advanced material is constructed from collagen (a protein) – the main component of natural leather – but Zoa is designed and grown in a lab from animal-free collagen derived from yeast. </p>
<p>The material is capable of replicating the qualities of leather and offers new design aesthetics and performance properties not previously possible – while also eliminating the high environmental impact of raising cows and tanning their hides (which is often a toxic process).</p>
<p><strong>From fungi:</strong> Similarly, San Francisco-based MycoWorks – among others – has been exploring the possibilities of creating sustainable materials using fungi. Mycelium, (a mushroom root material) which is grown from fungi and agricultural byproducts is custom engineered in a lab using a carbon negative process. </p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/289643/original/file-20190827-184234-mcgoci.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/289643/original/file-20190827-184234-mcgoci.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/289643/original/file-20190827-184234-mcgoci.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/289643/original/file-20190827-184234-mcgoci.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/289643/original/file-20190827-184234-mcgoci.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=424&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/289643/original/file-20190827-184234-mcgoci.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=424&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/289643/original/file-20190827-184234-mcgoci.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=424&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Mushroom leather made using mycelium.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">MycoWorks</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>It is easy to cultivate, fast growing and can be easily manipulated to adopt the properties similar to leather and many other mainstream materials such as wood and polystyrene. </p>
<h2>Field work</h2>
<p><strong>Grass roots</strong>: An interesting project by the artist Diana Scherer called Interwoven explores the fabrication of materials using living plant networks which could be used to construct garments of the future. She has developed a process which manipulates oat and wheat plant roots to grow intricate lace-like textile materials. </p>
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<p>She buries templates in the soil that act as moulds, which manipulates and channels the plants root systems to reveal woven structures constructed from geometrics and delicate motifs once the fabric is excavated. </p>
<p><strong>Cow manure:</strong> In a circular economy model, nothing is considered waste. In the Netherlands, a <a href="https://www.inspidere.com/mestic/">company called Inspidere</a> has developed a method <a href="https://www.amberoot.com/future-of-fashion-innovative-fabric-mestic-fibre/">it has called Mestic</a> that uses cow manure to produce new textiles. The processing method enables cellulose to be extracted from manure to produce two materials, viscose and cellulose acetate.</p>
<p><div data-react-class="Tweet" data-react-props="{"tweetId":"854169510307401737"}"></div></p>
<p>The manure is separated and processed in a lab to extract pure cellulose, which is further processed to create viscose (regenerated cellulose) and cellulose acetate (bio-plastic), both of which can be turned into textiles. The group have achieved lab-scale success, the challenge remains to scale this process up commercially. </p>
<p>These are just a few of the ways in which nature is being harnessed to provide the textile and fashion industry with realistic and viable options to move towards sustainability.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/119840/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Chetna Prajapati has received funding from the Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC) for the LEBIOTEX Project (AH/J002666/1), a collaborative project between Loughborough University and De Montfort University. </span></em></p>Science is helping turn textiles into a cleaner greener industry.Chetna Prajapati, Lecturer in Textiles, Loughborough UniversityLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/1098542019-03-21T15:58:47Z2019-03-21T15:58:47ZSix simple ways to fill your wardrobe with sustainable clothing<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/255615/original/file-20190125-108342-1arvkem.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">
</span> <span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/young-multiracial-couple-having-fun-clothing-1017455884?src=Vj3q1EHVdGv2l6pdKiOniQ-1-2">View Apart/Shutterstock</a></span></figcaption></figure><p>The environmental impact of fashion waste is overwhelming. Every year the UK alone sends <a href="http://www.wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/VoC%20FINAL%20online%202012%2007%2011.pdf">350,000 tonnes of clothing to landfill</a>. And as the majority of garments are made from <a href="https://goodonyou.eco/material-guide-polyester-2/">oil-based materials like polyester</a> – 22.67 billion tonnes of polyester clothing is produced every year worldwide – they aren’t going anywhere fast. Oil doesn’t decompose, and if burned the material will release harmful chemicals into the atmosphere. There are also problems associated with trimmings such as buttons, zips, studs and interfacing or lining. When buried with other waste in landfill, the combination of metal components, moisture and heat causes <a href="https://www.newsweek.com/2016/09/09/old-clothes-fashion-waste-crisis-494824.html">gases such as methane</a> to be emitted. </p>
<p>In response to this, and other elements of the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLfNUD0-8ts">fast fashion crisis</a>, the industry is changing.
Some brands have <a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-47282136">introduced recycling schemes</a> to address what happens to their products post-purchase. And the UK’s Environmental Audit Committee <a href="https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/politics/throwaway-fashion-charge-recycling-environment-sustainability-mary-creagh-a8784666.html">recently recommended a penny charge</a> on each garment sold to fund more and better clothing collection and recycling schemes.</p>
<p>But while the push for a more sustainable fashion market is in its early days, we as individuals can still make easy choices right now to have a more environmentally-friendly style. Here are six simple ways to create a wardrobe filled with more sustainable clothing.</p>
<h2>1. Reeducate yourself</h2>
<p>Don’t bury your head in the sand. Buying cheaply-made fast fashion can only mean that prices have been driven down hard. The smallest cost paid will be <a href="https://qz.com/1186813/top-fashion-ceos-earn-a-garment-workers-lifetime-pay-in-just-four-days-oxfam-says/">to the factory worker who stitched your clothes</a>. Seek out your favourite stores’ websites for their corporate social responsibility statements. This explains what are they doing for sustainability, and will help you decide whether it is a business you want to support. If their aims are unclear, take action – write to the head office and ask for change. It might be that you’re adding another voice to a group of concerns, or it could help them see something that they have missed.</p>
<h2>2. Buy for longevity</h2>
<p>Even if you’re a firm follower of the latest trends, you can still implement this advice. When looking at new pieces, be confident in your own style and ask yourself whether you will want to wear the piece again in six months’ time. If you believe it will last for quite some time in your fashion forward wardrobe then go ahead and buy it. Similarly, consider whether you can mix it with things you already have – there’s no use buying a new top if you don’t think it will go with anything else you own already.</p>
<h2>3. Restyle your wardrobe</h2>
<p>You might feel like you have nothing to wear but a fresh look at what you already own can help you see things in a new light. Try asking friends how they’d pair your garments in different ways, or use magazines and social media for inspiration. You don’t have to buy exactly the same outfit as you see modelled elsewhere. Figure out what you like best from that style – perhaps it’s the combination of colour or prints – and see how you can imitate it using what you own.</p>
<h2>4. Repair any damage</h2>
<p>You don’t need to be a professional tailor to fix any damage to clothes. An unattached seam or button that has fallen off can be easily sorted out. If you don’t know where to start, there are plenty of YouTube tutorials for beginners which will tell you exactly what you need to do. It’s not expensive to buy a needle and thread either. If it’s something more complicated, find a seamstress or ask someone you know for help. The cost likely won’t be as great as it would be if you were to throw the piece away and buy a new one.</p>
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</figure>
<h2>5. Shop vintage or charity</h2>
<p>Buying secondhand returns some value to the first owner, or provides a charity retailer with revenue. So long as you’re purchasing a secondhand garment instead of a new item, significant environmental savings will also be made, as no extra production or processing has been done for you to have a new item. Value is also retained within the economy rather than lost to landfill through this circular way of doing business. You don’t even need to venture out to the shops to buy secondhand. Apps and websites like <a href="https://www.depop.com/">Depop</a> and <a href="https://www.ebay.co.uk/">eBay</a> are popular with individual sellers while charities including <a href="https://www.oxfam.org.uk/shop/womens-clothing/designer-boutique">Oxfam boutique</a> and <a href="https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/cancerresearchukshop">Cancer Research UK</a> also sell clothes and accessories online.</p>
<h2>6. Buy locally</h2>
<p>Buying locally means that the manufacture and supply chain is drastically cut down. Quite often the maker or seller will be able to tell you how the item has been made and where the materials have been sourced from. Added to that is the fact that you are supporting the local economy, and a business owner who wants to make just as much of a change in the fashion world as you do.</p>
<p>Clothing manufacture and sale is the <a href="http://www.wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/valuing-our-clothes-the-cost-of-uk-fashion_WRAP.pdf">fourth largest pressure on natural resources</a> after housing, transport and food in the UK. Whatever your budget, it’s not too difficult to consider new ways of changing the way you value clothes, leading to a more sustainable fashion lifestyle.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/109854/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Sarah Lees is affiliated with Greenpeace.</span></em></p>Making more sustainable fashion choices doesn’t require a massive lifestyle change.Sarah Lees, Lecturer in Fashion Marketing and Retail Design, University of South WalesLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/955152018-04-27T03:49:25Z2018-04-27T03:49:25ZSustainable shopping: where to find a puffer jacket that doesn’t warm the Earth<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/216414/original/file-20180426-175058-10d8j2d.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=0%2C14%2C4752%2C3144&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Puffer jackets and vests have become the popular choice of winter coat for many, but at what cost to the environment, ducks and factory workers?</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">from www.shutterstock.com</span></span></figcaption></figure><p><em>Shopping can be confusing at the best of times, and trying to find environmentally friendly options makes it even more difficult. Our <a href="https://theconversation.com/au/topics/sustainable-shopping-38407">Sustainable Shopping</a> series asks experts to provide easy eco-friendly guides to purchases big and small. Send us your suggestions for future articles <a href="mailto:michael.hopkin@theconversation.edu.au">here</a>.</em></p>
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<p>A good winter coat is an investment, and puffer jackets are a timeless classic that speak to the mountaineering, outdoor lifestyle of Patagonia and Kathmandu, whose names alone evoke wintry wildernesses and wild geese in flight.</p>
<p>If you’re looking to replace your old winter coat, there is every possibility that one of the Michelin-man-looking puffer jackets has caught your eye for its warmth, lightness and associations with trekking through the wilderness.</p>
<p>However, the environmental, ethical and social impacts of your puffer jacket might not leave you feeling so warm and fuzzy. Here is a guide to the considerations you should keep in mind when looking for your winter jacket, and where to find the best options. </p>
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<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/from-the-somme-to-the-catwalk-the-story-of-the-trench-coat-28003">From the Somme to the catwalk: the story of the trench coat</a>
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<h2>Quality of materials</h2>
<p>The most common fibres for winter coats are wool or its synthetic imitation, acrylic. For puffer jackets, the outer shell is typically made from polyester. Polyester is a synthetic fibre derived from a non-renewable petrochemical origin, the use of which contributes to greenhouse gas emissions. </p>
<p>According to the <a href="http://msi.apparelcoalition.org/#/">Materials Sustainability Index</a>, recycled polyester is a better environmental choice than virgin polyester, and its use is becoming more common. Emerging recycled fabrics from <a href="http://www.ragtrader.com.au/news/what-the-frappe#8ik5B6KrjgVMEO4X.99">used coffee grounds</a> are also in use in outdoor wear – see <a href="https://www.mountaindesigns.com/store/products/170161/md-narvik-vest-w">Mountain Designs</a>.</p>
<p>The fluffy interiors of puffer jackets also need to be considered. A top ethical concern is the treatment of the birds whose down and feathers are harvested for jackets. <a href="http://www.abc.net.au/news/2017-09-02/the-rise-of-the-puffer-jacket-has-a-%20dark-side/8857236">Reports</a> have emerged of geese and ducks being live-plucked for down and feathers.</p>
<p>Certifications such as the <a href="http://responsibledown.org/">Responsible Down Standard</a> and the <a href="https://www.ispo.com/en/markets/id_79695856/maximum-animal-welfare-global-traceable-down-standard.html">Global Traceable Down Standard</a> are a means by which companies can assure consumers that the down in their puffer jackets was ethically sourced, using the best practice of animal care. Each standard ensures there are no live-plucking or force-feeding practices, and that the animals providing down and feathers are humanely treated according to the <a href="http://webarchive.nationalarchives.gov.uk/20121010012427/http://www.fawc.org.uk/freedoms.htm">five freedoms</a> of animal welfare. </p>
<p>However, buying an expensive coat does not automatically mean that a company has its house in order, just as buying cheaper “fast fashion” puffer jackets need not necessarily mean that the down is unethically sourced. Whatever the price of the jacket, <a href="http://responsibledown.org/find-responsible-down-standard_categories/apparel/">check first</a> whether the company has signed up to the Responsible Down Standard.</p>
<p>The main alternative to down is polyester filling, such as the recycled polyester ECOdown. Unlike duck or goose down, ECOdown does not lose its insulating qualities <a href="https://www.outdoorresearch.com/blog/article/down-vs.-synthetic-whats-the-difference-between-down-and-synthetic-insulati">when wet</a>. The flip side is that polyester down is slightly heavier than duck or goose down. Brands that use ECOdown include <a href="https://www.trenery.com.au/shop/womenswear/clothing/jackets-and-coats/60223973/Cotton-Puffer-Vest.html">Trenery</a> and <a href="https://us.hoodlamb.com/">HoodLamb</a>.</p>
<p>There are also other natural alternatives, such as batting made from <a href="http://www.mainpeak.com.au/blog/merino-loft/">merino wool</a>, as used by <a href="https://au.icebreaker.com/en/merinoloft">Icebreaker</a>, or the recycled goose down used by <a href="http://www.patagonia.com/recycled-down.html">Patagonia</a>. </p>
<h2>Manufacturing processes</h2>
<p>The long supply chains through which our garments arrive can mean that labour abuses continue to occur. The <a href="https://baptistworldaid.org.au/resources/2018-ethical-fashion-guide/">2018 Ethical Fashion Guide</a> was released this month, so have a look at how local brands have fared in terms of supply-chain transparency. Throughout April, <a href="https://www.fashionrevolution.org/">Fashion Revolution Day</a> aim to connect and inform the public about the issues facing the estimated 60 million garment workers worldwide.</p>
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<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/three-years-on-from-rana-plaza-disaster-and-little-improvement-in-transparency-or-worker-conditions-58216">Three years on from Rana Plaza disaster and little improvement in transparency or worker conditions</a>
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<p><a href="https://wellmadeclothes.com.au/">Well Made Clothes</a> is a website that allows you to choose clothing that aligns with your values, be they environmental, social, ethical treatment of animals, or all three.</p>
<h2>Coat care</h2>
<p>The final choices are those you can make as a wearer. For the workaday, bundled-up commuter, choose a high-quality garment in a hard-wearing fabric in a classic style and it will last you many seasons (real seasons as well as fashion’s artificial ones). </p>
<p>Again, fibre matters in longevity. Wool coats have a natural insulating quality. Acrylic, a synthetic substitute for wool, can develop pilling and does not have wool’s natural advantages.</p>
<p>Selecting a brand that will repair your damaged coat ensures that you remain motivated to care for your garment. Finally, in terms of disposal, brands such as Kathmandu and H&M offer a take-back service at the end of the garment’s life (although effective recycling of these garments remains a wicked problem for retailers). High-quality coats will always be in demand at op shops.</p>
<h2>Why not wear what you wore last winter?</h2>
<p>Retailers might not like this, but you should ask yourself whether you even need a fresh coat and, if so, whether it needs to be bought new. The most environmentally friendly item is the one we already own. Increasing sales of second-hand clothing result in savings in carbon emissions, waste, and water usage per tonne of clothing (see page 38 of <a href="http://www.wrap.org.uk/sustainable-textiles/valuing-our-clothes%20">this report</a>).</p>
<p>Despite the supposed vagaries of fashion, winter coats are an excellent example of a garment that need not require constant refreshing, but rather can be worn for many seasons if cared for correctly.</p>
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<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/sustainable-shopping-for-eco-friendly-jeans-stop-washing-them-so-often-75781">Sustainable shopping: for eco-friendly jeans, stop washing them so often</a>
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<p>However, if you seek a winter wardrobe refresh, the enjoyment of rugging up in a new coat can be experienced at a lower cost economically and environmentally by buying second-hand, whether through eBay or op shops, or swapping or buying informally through friends in your social network. Engaging in the sharing economy through clothing renting platforms such as <a href="https://lana.global/">Lána</a> can allow you to rent a show-stopping coat for a special night out.</p>
<p>Given the many considerations involved in the choice of coat – whether concerns over workers’ rights, cruelty to animals, or environmental impact – all we can do is make informed choices according to our individual values. For this reason, my first stop when doing some “sustainable shopping” will always be my existing wardrobe.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/95515/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Alice Payne does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>The puffer jacket has become an iconic staple of many people’s winter wardrobe. Here are some ways to shop for yours in the most eco-friendly and ethical way.Alice Payne, Senior lecturer in Fashion, Queensland University of Technology, Queensland University of TechnologyLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/912262018-04-11T06:17:13Z2018-04-11T06:17:13ZVisible mending: punk’s not dead, just patching itself up<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/213691/original/file-20180408-5600-edfsh8.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Visible mending places clothing at the centre of a protest movement.</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Gaye Naismith</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>Visible mending is a quiet, global protest movement that’s happening at a grass-roots level, challenging the way we consume clothing. “We don’t need to throw our clothes away, and we’re wearing our mends as a badge of honour,” says Jane Milburn, a visible mender and <a href="https://www.booktopia.com.au/slow-clothing-jane-milburn/prod9780648181705.html">author </a>.</p>
<p>Many of us may donate our used clothes when we’ve finished with them, but the reality is that Australia doesn’t have <a href="https://www.bloomberg.com/view/articles/2018-01-15/no-one-wants-your-used-clothes-anymore">the capacity to recycle all its old clothing</a>, which generates <a href="http://www.abc.net.au/news/2017-01-12/australias-obsession-with-new-clothes-hurting-the-environment/8177624">millions of tonnes of waste annually</a>. Many of our clothes are made of fabrics dyed with toxic chemicals and <a href="https://textilebeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Milburn-Jane-FINAL-Making-a-material-difference.pdf">blended with synthetic polymer fibres</a>, meaning they <a href="http://www.abc.net.au/news/2017-01-12/australias-obsession-with-new-clothes-hurting-the-environment/8177624">poison our planet</a> at every stage in their life cycle. Says Milburn:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Mending and repurposing clothes is also a wonderful way to extend the life of garments that hold special emotional connections for us. You get moth [holes], you get rips, and instead of just throwing them away I mend them, which makes them individual. They are statements of resourcefulness, care and sustainability.</p>
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<figure class="align-left zoomable">
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<span class="caption">Vivienne Westwood in 2017.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Jens Kalaene/DPA</span></span>
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<p>Historically, visible mending was a sign of poverty – if you had to patch and repair your clothing, then you couldn’t afford to buy new garments or fabrics. But since the mid-1970s, many have embraced the aesthetic of distressed clothing, firstly via the punk styles created by <a href="http://www.abc.net.au/radionational/programs/bigideas/vivian-westwood/3658390">Vivienne Westwood</a> and later via grunge in the 1990s – helped by industrial techniques for stonewashing denim.</p>
<p>In the <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15649/conceptual-chic-evening-dress-rhodes-zandra/">punk</a> and grunge movements, ripped threads were loud sartorial protests against society and a lack of opportunities for young people. Today, buying cheap new clothes that are ripped, stained and have frayed seams is commonplace among younger consumers of fashion. </p>
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<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/for-a-true-war-on-waste-the-fashion-industry-must-spend-more-on-research-78673">For a true war on waste, the fashion industry must spend more on research</a>
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<p>The visible mending movement is also a response to distressed fast fashion. “Do it yourself, but don’t buy stuff that’s already ripped,” says Milburn. She describes the trend of buying new, distressed clothing as, “an obscene statement of our abundance and excess”.</p>
<p>Part of the attraction of visible mending is that Sashiko, a form of Japanese folk embroidery that is the main technique used by the movement, is simple to learn, says Melbourne-based visible mender Gaye Naismith. </p>
<blockquote>
<p>Sashiko embroidery uses running stitch, which is the universal stitch: you can find it in every culture and anyone can do it. It uses Sashiko embroidery thread, which is not stranded like English embroidery thread; rather it’s a bit more like butcher’s string but a little thicker. </p>
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<p>The thread, she says, was traditionally indigo and cream but now comes in lots of colours. “It’s rough and ready, but you can make something really pretty from it.”</p>
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<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/213688/original/file-20180408-5575-1potny7.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/213688/original/file-20180408-5575-1potny7.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/213688/original/file-20180408-5575-1potny7.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=600&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/213688/original/file-20180408-5575-1potny7.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=600&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/213688/original/file-20180408-5575-1potny7.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=600&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/213688/original/file-20180408-5575-1potny7.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=754&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/213688/original/file-20180408-5575-1potny7.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=754&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/213688/original/file-20180408-5575-1potny7.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=754&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
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<span class="caption">An exmaple of Sashiko embroidery.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Gaye Naismith</span></span>
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<p>Visible mending also aims to reconnect people with vanishing life skills that were once ubiquitous. Darning, for instance, was once considered a vital skill to keep knitted and woven clothing wearable and stop further damage. It consists of anchoring yarn in the fabric on the edge of the hole, carrying it across the gap and then anchoring it on the other side, usually with a running stitch or two, until threads criss-cross the hole. </p>
<p>Darning holes in a garment with thread in contrasting shades can create beautiful patterns and pops of colour, especially in cardigans and socks. Visible menders such as Naismith <a href="https://schoolofsewingandupcycling.com.au/">hold workshops</a> for people to re-learn and refine techniques such as this. </p>
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<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/213689/original/file-20180408-5603-1chhxh8.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/213689/original/file-20180408-5603-1chhxh8.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/213689/original/file-20180408-5603-1chhxh8.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=600&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/213689/original/file-20180408-5603-1chhxh8.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=600&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/213689/original/file-20180408-5603-1chhxh8.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=600&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/213689/original/file-20180408-5603-1chhxh8.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=754&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/213689/original/file-20180408-5603-1chhxh8.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=754&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/213689/original/file-20180408-5603-1chhxh8.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=754&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
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<span class="caption">Darning can create patterns in its own right.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Gaye Naismith</span></span>
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<p>Patching your clothes with meaningful textiles also allows you to <a href="http://researchdirect.uws.edu.au/islandora/object/uws%3A34408">wear your memories</a>, says Naismith, who runs visible mending parties where people bring their sewing projects, and share cake and ideas. The groups can also help to combat loneliness and be a form of self-care. “Most people find it very relaxing and satisfying because sewing by hand forces you to slow things down,” says Naismith. </p>
<p>The visible mending community is thriving online, with local social networking groups such as “Friends of the Up-Cycled Cloth Collective, Australia and New Zealand” and international ones such as “A Mend and Made Do Life”, which has more than 14,800 members. </p>
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<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/213690/original/file-20180408-5597-1r2gifq.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/213690/original/file-20180408-5597-1r2gifq.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/213690/original/file-20180408-5597-1r2gifq.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/213690/original/file-20180408-5597-1r2gifq.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/213690/original/file-20180408-5597-1r2gifq.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/213690/original/file-20180408-5597-1r2gifq.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/213690/original/file-20180408-5597-1r2gifq.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/213690/original/file-20180408-5597-1r2gifq.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
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<span class="caption">A visible mending party.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Gaye Naismith</span></span>
</figcaption>
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<p>There are countless Pinterest, Instagram and <a href="http://thecraftsessions.com/blog/2014/6/13/visible-mending-as-an-art-form%20https://melbourne.lanewaylearning.com/about-us/">visible mending blogs</a> that can provide aesthetic inspiration for your projects, and more than a thousand tutorials online that demonstrate <a href="http://www.platform21.nl/page/4360/en">repairing</a> techniques. </p>
<p>At the conclusion of her 2013 London fashion show Westwood, the grand doyenne of punk, made <a href="http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG10312077/Vivienne-Westwood-Everyone-buys-too-many-clothes.html">an impassioned plea to consumers</a> to protest the excesses of her industry: “Buy less. Choose well. Make it last.” </p>
<p>Her call has inspired visible menders, who are once again placing our <a href="https://textilebeat.com/">clothing at the centre of a protest movement</a>. Visible mending, says Naismith, is “a bit punk”. “People are doing it as a reaction to the whole fashion industry’s excesses of production.” Forty years later, it seems that punk’s not dead; it’s just patching itself up.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/91226/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Emily Brayshaw does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>Sewers with attitude are tackling fast fashion one stitch at a time.Emily Brayshaw, Lecturer, Fashion and Design History, Theory, and Thinking, University of Technology SydneyLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/875722017-12-20T11:29:51Z2017-12-20T11:29:51ZUntrustworthy memories make it hard to shop ethically<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/199310/original/file-20171214-27583-1tqb3oa.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">You probably don't remember the Kathie Lee sweatshop scandal of the mid-1990s. What about the more recent debacles?
</span> <span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="http://www.apimages.com/metadata/Index/Associated-Press-Domestic-News-New-York-United-/a7a6f33343e5da11af9f0014c2589dfb/4/0">AP Photo/Michael Schmelling</a></span></figcaption></figure><p>Imagine a shopper, Sarah, who is concerned about child labor and knows about groups like the <a href="https://www.fairwear.org/">Fair Wear Foundation</a> that certify which brands sell ethically produced clothing. Hours after learning that <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/world/2017/feb/05/child-labour-myanmar-high-street-brands">fashion giant H&M</a> reportedly sells clothing made by children in risky workplaces in Burma, she goes shopping. Completely forgetting about what she just heard, she buys an H&M dress.</p>
<p>What happened? Sarah either forgot about that child labor allegation, or she mistakenly recalled that H&M was on Fair Wear’s list of <a href="https://www.fairwear.org/brands/">ethical brands</a> – which it isn’t. Either way, how could she make such an error?</p>
<p>We are interested in how actual purchasing can be different from consumers’ own values. Our research shows that even though <a href="https://www.forbes.com/sites/sarahlandrum/2017/03/17/millennials-driving-brands-to-practice-socially-responsible-marketing/">most consumers</a> want to buy ethically sourced items, it’s hard for them to heed these sentiments, especially when adhering to their sentiments requires remembering something.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/199309/original/file-20171214-27558-tyvuy9.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/199309/original/file-20171214-27558-tyvuy9.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/199309/original/file-20171214-27558-tyvuy9.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=397&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/199309/original/file-20171214-27558-tyvuy9.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=397&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/199309/original/file-20171214-27558-tyvuy9.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=397&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/199309/original/file-20171214-27558-tyvuy9.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=499&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/199309/original/file-20171214-27558-tyvuy9.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=499&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/199309/original/file-20171214-27558-tyvuy9.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=499&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">These Bangladeshi garment workers took shelter inside a shop after police fired tear gas amid a hunger strike in 2014.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="http://www.apimages.com/metadata/Index/Bangladesh-Garment-Protest-/714717e8a1644008ad2a2a7c891f7682/91/0">AP Photo/A.M. Ahad</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<h2>Selective memories</h2>
<p>It’s not easy to shop ethically in the U.S. Nearly all the <a href="https://fivethirtyeight.com/features/where-the-u-s-gets-its-clothing-one-year-after-the-bangladesh-factory-collapse/">clothing sold here is imported</a>. Although not all imported clothing is made in exploitative workplaces, companies that demonstrably benefit from unfair and even <a href="https://www.theatlantic.com/business/archive/2017/05/rana-plaza-four-years-later/525252/">dangerous labor practices</a> abroad continue to flourish.</p>
<p>Prior <a href="http://journals.ama.org/doi/abs/10.1509/jmkr.2005.42.3.266">consumer psychology research</a> has shown that people dislike thinking about unethical issues associated with their purchases. When you buy a new sweater, you probably don’t want to contemplate the harsh reality that it might have been made by exploited workers. And you may be tempted to come up with <a href="http://www.hbs.edu/faculty/Pages/item.aspx?num=35032">rationalizations</a> to avoid thinking much about these issues.</p>
<p>In fact, consumers may do their best to <a href="http://journals.ama.org/doi/abs/10.1509/jmkr.2005.42.3.266">remain ignorant</a> about whether a product is ethical or not, simply to avoid the anguish they would experience if they were to find out.</p>
<h2>Unethical amnesia</h2>
<p>We wanted to learn what consumers would do if they had to face the truth.</p>
<p>Perhaps they might just forget that truth. After all, memory is not a particularly accurate <a href="https://www.psychologytoday.com/articles/200105/the-seven-sins-memory">recording device</a>. For example, recent psychological research suggests that people experience “<a href="http://www.pnas.org/content/113/22/6166.short">unethical amnesia</a>” – a tendency to forget when they have behaved unethically in the past.</p>
<p>So would shoppers also prefer to forget when a company exploits workers or engages in other unethical actions? We predicted that they would.</p>
<p>In a series of studies described in an article published in the <a href="https://academic.oup.com/jcr/advance-article/doi/10.1093/jcr/ucx120/4711097?guestAccessKey=fa0f8cd2-5c3b-4348-8bca-696015229572">Journal of Consumer Research</a>, we explored why consumers’ memories might fail them when it comes to recalling whether products are ethical. It turns out that there is a predictable pattern for what consumers are likely to remember (or forget) about the ethicality of products.</p>
<p>In general, we found that consumers are worse at remembering bad ethical information about a product, such as that it was produced with child labor or in a polluting manner, than they are at remembering good ethical information – such as that it was made with good labor practices and without much pollution. Our findings should trouble the many companies now vying for the <a href="https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/ethical-clothing-brands-you-probably-didnt-know-about_us_59e61300e4b0a2324d1dfa71">ethical consumerism market</a> and the people who buy those products.</p>
<figure>
<iframe width="440" height="260" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/VdLf4fihP78?wmode=transparent&start=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
<figcaption><span class="caption">As John Oliver explains with humor, low prices are way better for consumers than for garment workers making trendy clothes.</span></figcaption>
</figure>
<h2>Avoiding feeling torn</h2>
<p>To test our hypothesis, we studied how well 236 undergraduates would remember manufacturing information about six wooden desks. We did not select any of the participants for these studies based on whether they did or did not see themselves as ethical consumers.</p>
<p>We told these students that half of the six brands of desks were made from wood sourced from endangered <a href="http://www.rainforestrelief.org/">rainforests</a> and that the rest came from wood sourced from sustainable <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sustainable_Forestry_Initiative">tree farms</a>.</p>
<p>After they had several opportunities to study and memorize the descriptions, the participants completed unrelated tasks for approximately 20 minutes. Then we displayed only the desks’ brand names and asked the students to recall their descriptions.</p>
<p>The participants were significantly less likely to correctly remember when a desk was made with rainforest wood compared to when it was made with sustainable wood. They either did not remember the wood source at all or wrongly recalled that the desk was made from sustainable wood.</p>
<p>Did that suggest shoppers just don’t want to remember unpleasant information about brands? </p>
<p>To find out, we looked into how accurately the students would remember other attributes of the desks, such as their prices. We found that they didn’t make the same kinds of errors.</p>
<p>People generally strive to <a href="http://discovermagazine.com/2007/may/the-discover-interview-marc-hauser">act morally</a>, which in this case would mean remembering whether products are ethically sourced or not and then presumably acting accordingly. However, people also do not want to feel bad or guilty.</p>
<p>And no one enjoys <a href="https://hbswk.hbs.edu/item/understanding-the-want-vs-should-decision">feeling torn</a>. The easiest way for conscientious shoppers to avoid this inner conflict is to yield to their consumerist whims by forgetting details that might trigger ethical concerns.</p>
<figure>
<iframe width="440" height="260" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Q1gIKo0kti4?wmode=transparent&start=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
<figcaption><span class="caption">The Patagonia outdoor clothing company made this video to explain why it tries to follow ethical business practices and why that sets it apart.</span></figcaption>
</figure>
<h2>Do these jeans make me look unethical?</h2>
<p>In <a href="https://academic.oup.com/jcr/advance-article/doi/10.1093/jcr/ucx120/4711097?guestAccessKey=fa0f8cd2-5c3b-4348-8bca-696015229572">another study</a>, we had 402 adults participate in an online experiment. As part of a shopping task, this group, which averaged 38 years old and included slightly more women than men, read about a pair of jeans. Half of them saw jeans made by adults. The others saw jeans made by children.</p>
<p>Consistent with our other findings, people who saw the child-labor jeans were significantly less likely to remember this detail compared with people who had seen the jeans made by adults.</p>
<p>Notably, participants who saw the child-labor jeans said they felt more uncomfortable. We determined that this desire to not feel uncomfortable again led participants to forget about the child labor detail.</p>
<p><div data-react-class="Tweet" data-react-props="{"tweetId":"685294197021274112"}"></div></p>
<h2>I don’t remember and I feel fine</h2>
<p>In <a href="https://academic.oup.com/jcr/advance-article/doi/10.1093/jcr/ucx120/4711097?guestAccessKey=fa0f8cd2-5c3b-4348-8bca-696015229572">another online experiment</a>, we presented 341 adults (with the same demographic profile) with one of two scenarios.</p>
<p>Half of them read about a consumer who, when trying to recall a description of jeans they were interested in purchasing, forgot whether the jeans were ethically made. The other half read about a consumer who instead remembered whether the jeans were made ethically, but chose to ignore this information.</p>
<p>It turns out that participants judged consumers less harshly for buying jeans they forgot were made by children rather than when they remembered but ignored this information.</p>
<p>So, maybe consumers forget when products are made unethically so they can buy what they want without feeling (as) guilty.</p>
<h2>Reminding consumers</h2>
<p>How can marketers help consumers make more ethical choices?</p>
<p>One possibility is to continually remind them, even at point of purchase, of their products’ ethical attributes. That is what companies such as <a href="https://www.fastcompany.com/40455752/everlanes-quest-to-make-the-worlds-most-sustainable-denim">Everlane</a>, a clothing company that has built social responsibility into its business model, and the outdoor apparel giant <a href="http://www.latimes.com/fashion/alltherage/la-ar-patagonia-blue-jeans-20150805-story.html">Patagonia</a> already do.</p>
<p>Also, companies can concentrate on the bright side, describing how happy their well-paid workers are and how their contractors are good environmental stewards instead of pointing out the bad things their competitors do. Based on what we learned, that approach would make ethical consumers less likely to subconsciously dodge this issue.</p>
<p>How can consumers make more ethical choices? </p>
<p>For starters, they can forget about relying on their memories when they shop. They can use guides like the one <a href="https://projectjust.com/">Project Just</a> has created to assess their next purchase, and they can also make notes to themselves about brands to avoid. The key is to realize our memories are not perfect and that shopping without a plan may lead us away from our values.</p>
<p><div data-react-class="Tweet" data-react-props="{"tweetId":"935557177284145153"}"></div></p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/87572/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>The authors do not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organization that would benefit from this article, and have disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>People who see themselves as conscientious consumers often buy items made by companies that violate their values because it’s hard to keep that information in mind.Rebecca Walker Reczek, Associate Professor of Marketing, The Ohio State UniversityDaniel Zane, Marketing PhD candidate, The Ohio State UniversityJulie Irwin, Marlene and Morton Meyerson Centennial Professor of Business, Department of Marketing and Department of Business, Government and Society, The University of Texas at AustinLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/859892017-11-06T19:22:35Z2017-11-06T19:22:35ZSustainable shopping: how to rock white sneakers without eco-guilt<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192536/original/file-20171030-18725-adlz70.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Nearly everyone owns a pair of white sneakers. But what are the different materials required to make a sneaker?</span> <span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/idhren/14197620292">Maria Morri/flickr</a>, <a class="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/">CC BY-SA</a></span></figcaption></figure><p><em>Shopping can be confusing at the best of times, and trying to find environmentally friendly options makes it even more difficult. Welcome to our <a href="https://theconversation.com/au/topics/sustainable-shopping-38407">Sustainable Shopping</a> series, in which we ask experts to provide easy eco-friendly guides to purchases big and small.</em></p>
<hr>
<p>White sneakers look great with nearly everything on nearly everybody, so it’s no surprise they’re having a fashion moment. Adidas sold <a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/adidas-hits-marketing-gold-with-stan-smith-shoes">eight million pairs</a> of their iconic Stan Smiths in 2015 (and that doesn’t include the lookalikes).</p>
<p>Nearly <a href="http://www.roymorgan.com/findings/6764-shopping-for-mens-sports-shoes-201604192346">800,000 Australians</a> buy a pair of sporting shoes in any four-week period. This amounts to a staggering <a href="http://www.roymorgan.com/findings/6764-shopping-for-mens-sports-shoes-201604192346">10.4 million pairs sold every year</a>. Globally, Nike sells <a href="https://www.gq.com/story/nike-business-how-many-sneakers-per-second">25 pairs of sneakers every second</a>.</p>
<p>But have you ever considered the environmental impact of your favourite sneakers? From materials to manufacturing, they have a hidden cost – but it is possible to find shoes that don’t cost the Earth. </p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/show-me-the-sole-the-exhilarating-sight-of-sneakers-on-show-77709">'Show me the sole': the exhilarating sight of sneakers on show</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<h2>A pair of runners produces 13kg of CO₂</h2>
<p>While little research has been done on the environmental impact of fashion, one study has found that the production of a pair of running shoes emits <a href="http://news.mit.edu/2013/footwear-carbon-footprint-0522">13kg of carbon dioxide</a>. The production of the materials involved, including <a href="http://publications.lib.chalmers.se/records/fulltext/218968/218968.pdf">leather, nylon, synthetic rubber, plastic and viscose</a>, also takes an environmental toll.</p>
<p>Sneakers have a high carbon footprint as, unlike other types of shoes, they typically have many distinct parts. This involves steps like injection molding, foaming, heating, cutting and sewing.</p>
<p>Where the shoes are made is also a factor. Overwhelmingly, the world’s sneakers come from China: in 2016 they represented 76.8% of the the <a href="https://www.statista.com/statistics/227256/leading-10-global-footwear-producers-by-country/">global footwear manufacturing market</a>. China’s factories are <a href="https://data.worldbank.org/indicator/EG.ELC.COAL.ZS?locations=CN-BR-ID-VN&view=map">largely reliant on fossil fuels</a>, increasing their environmental impact. </p>
<h2>Making a shoe</h2>
<p>So let’s give your sneakers a quick look. The story behind the primary materials of leather, synthetic leather and rubber have a greater environmental cost than you think.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192561/original/file-20171031-18735-16roxon.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192561/original/file-20171031-18735-16roxon.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192561/original/file-20171031-18735-16roxon.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192561/original/file-20171031-18735-16roxon.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192561/original/file-20171031-18735-16roxon.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192561/original/file-20171031-18735-16roxon.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=425&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192561/original/file-20171031-18735-16roxon.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=425&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192561/original/file-20171031-18735-16roxon.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=425&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">The different materials required to produce a sneaker.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Stan_Smith_white_and_green.png">Raizin/The Conversation/Wikimedia Commons</a>, <a class="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/">CC BY-SA</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p><strong>Leather</strong></p>
<p>Leather tanning as an industry is <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.chemosphere.2007.05.086">environmentally costly</a>. Facilities need large amounts of water for treatment, and generate significant amounts of solid and liquid waste, which impacts <a href="http://wst.iwaponline.com/content/28/2/97">soil and water health</a>. </p>
<p>It’s also costly to human health, using <a href="http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00039896.1979.10667364">toxic chemicals</a> and heavy metals like chromium that have been <a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2FBF01202722?LI=true">linked to cancer</a> in leather workers. </p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191989/original/file-20171026-28033-11sb4jg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191989/original/file-20171026-28033-11sb4jg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191989/original/file-20171026-28033-11sb4jg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191989/original/file-20171026-28033-11sb4jg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191989/original/file-20171026-28033-11sb4jg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191989/original/file-20171026-28033-11sb4jg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=424&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191989/original/file-20171026-28033-11sb4jg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=424&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191989/original/file-20171026-28033-11sb4jg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=424&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Leather tanning in India.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="http://labourbehindthelabel.org/a-tough-story-of-leather/">Labour Behind the Label</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Finally, the majority of leather is cowhide, which has a large environmental impact. The beef industry is the <a href="http://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1748-9326/10/12/125012/meta">largest driver of deforestation globally</a>. It is responsible for <a href="http://www.fao.org/news/story/en/item/197623/icode/">65% of greenhouse gas emissions</a> from livestock.</p>
<p><em><strong>As an alternative:</strong></em> Look for chrome-free leather, vegetable tanned leather or leather alternatives like <a href="http://www.ananas-anam.com/pinatex/">Piñatex</a>, which is made from pineapple leaves.</p>
<p><strong>Synthetic leather</strong></p>
<p>Synthetic leather, which is used in the liner of most sneakers (as well as vegan footwear) may be more eco-friendly than leather, but it’s still not perfect. It’s typically made from plastics like <a href="http://www.vocativ.com/news/281599/vegan-leather-isnt-as-ethical-as-you-think/">polyurethane and PVC</a>, which contain their own harmful chemical ingredients. And unlike leather, it’s not biodegradable.</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191991/original/file-20171026-28045-381cqd.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191991/original/file-20171026-28045-381cqd.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191991/original/file-20171026-28045-381cqd.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=800&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191991/original/file-20171026-28045-381cqd.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=800&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191991/original/file-20171026-28045-381cqd.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=800&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191991/original/file-20171026-28045-381cqd.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1005&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191991/original/file-20171026-28045-381cqd.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1005&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191991/original/file-20171026-28045-381cqd.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1005&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Sri Lanka natural rubber plantation.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sri_Lanka-Rubber_plantation_(5).JPG">Ji-Elle/Wikimedia Commons</a>, <a class="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/">CC BY-SA</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p><em><strong>As an alternative:</strong></em> Look for vegetable tanned leather, Piñatex, recycled PET or textiles like hemp, jute, wool, or organic cotton.</p>
<p><strong>Rubber</strong></p>
<p>Most sneakers use synthetic rubber in the soles. They are made from <a href="https://w3.siemens.com/mcms/sensor-systems/CaseStudies/CS_Butyl_Rubber_2013-01_en_Web.pdf">petroleum byproducts</a> and are treated with chemical compounds. Like other synthetic materials, manufacturing rubber uses energy and water and creates waste. Chemicals can also leach from the shoe as the sole wears down. </p>
<p><em><strong>As an alternative:</strong></em> Look for natural or wild rubber, which can be cultivated to aid against deforestation.</p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/sustainable-shopping-for-eco-friendly-jeans-stop-washing-them-so-often-75781">Sustainable shopping: for eco-friendly jeans, stop washing them so often</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<h2>Sustainable alternatives</h2>
<p>Lucky for us, we are spoiled for choice when it comes to sustainable alternatives to everyone’s favourite casual sneaker. You can check your favourite brands against independent NGOs like <a href="https://projectjust.com/"> Project JUST</a>, the <a href="http://www.bettershoes.org/home/design-process">Better Shoes Foundation</a> or <a href="https://goodonyou.eco/app/">Good On You</a>, or try the eco-friendly brands below (their claims are largely self-reported, so it’s a good idea to look up their ratings as well). </p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192545/original/file-20171031-18738-13p3jbi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192545/original/file-20171031-18738-13p3jbi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192545/original/file-20171031-18738-13p3jbi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=440&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192545/original/file-20171031-18738-13p3jbi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=440&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192545/original/file-20171031-18738-13p3jbi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=440&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192545/original/file-20171031-18738-13p3jbi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=553&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192545/original/file-20171031-18738-13p3jbi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=553&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192545/original/file-20171031-18738-13p3jbi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=553&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Classic green and white made of recycled cotton.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Veja</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.veja-store.com/en/">Veja</a></strong></p>
<p>The ethical sneaker preferred by fashionistas. They’re made with completely sustainable materials including a range of vegetable tanned leathers, organic and Fairtrade cotton, recycled plastic, wild rubber, jute and hemp. They are also ethically produced in their Brazilian factory.</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192547/original/file-20171031-18738-1kkkfaz.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192547/original/file-20171031-18738-1kkkfaz.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192547/original/file-20171031-18738-1kkkfaz.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=282&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192547/original/file-20171031-18738-1kkkfaz.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=282&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192547/original/file-20171031-18738-1kkkfaz.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=282&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192547/original/file-20171031-18738-1kkkfaz.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=355&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192547/original/file-20171031-18738-1kkkfaz.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=355&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192547/original/file-20171031-18738-1kkkfaz.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=355&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">White sneakers with chrome-free leather and eco microfibre.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Pozu</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p><strong><a href="https://po-zu.com/">Po Zu</a></strong></p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191992/original/file-20171026-28039-1sioieu.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191992/original/file-20171026-28039-1sioieu.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191992/original/file-20171026-28039-1sioieu.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191992/original/file-20171026-28039-1sioieu.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191992/original/file-20171026-28039-1sioieu.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191992/original/file-20171026-28039-1sioieu.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191992/original/file-20171026-28039-1sioieu.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191992/original/file-20171026-28039-1sioieu.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Opale, sneakers made of recycled rubber and plastic bottles.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">FYE</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Made in a toxic-free, ethical factory in Portugal using naturally renewable and sustainably harvested materials. No toxic dyes are used on the products, which are primarily made of Piñatex, organic cotton, wool, coir (a mix of coconut husk and natural latex), cork, chrome-free leather and natural rubber.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.foryourearthshoes.com.au">For Your Earth</a></strong></p>
<p>Vegan sneakers using recycled plastic bottles for the uppers. The company goes the extra mile by using organic cotton laces and recycled rubber soles, and plants one tree for every pair of shoes sold.</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192549/original/file-20171031-18689-q9awld.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192549/original/file-20171031-18689-q9awld.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192549/original/file-20171031-18689-q9awld.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=415&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192549/original/file-20171031-18689-q9awld.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=415&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192549/original/file-20171031-18689-q9awld.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=415&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192549/original/file-20171031-18689-q9awld.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=521&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192549/original/file-20171031-18689-q9awld.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=521&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192549/original/file-20171031-18689-q9awld.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=521&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Lace-up sneakers with Piñatex.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">NAE</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p><strong><a href="https://www.nae-vegan.com">Nae</a></strong></p>
<p>This ethical footwear company makes great use of cork, Piñatex, recycled PET and paperboard. It also uses a carbon-neutral manufacturing system to create its vegan sneakers.</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191993/original/file-20171026-28036-19atkbg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191993/original/file-20171026-28036-19atkbg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191993/original/file-20171026-28036-19atkbg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191993/original/file-20171026-28036-19atkbg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191993/original/file-20171026-28036-19atkbg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191993/original/file-20171026-28036-19atkbg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191993/original/file-20171026-28036-19atkbg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191993/original/file-20171026-28036-19atkbg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Australia’s own organic fairtrade lowcuts white.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Etiko</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p><strong><a href="http://etiko.com.au">Etiko</a></strong></p>
<p>This small, family-owned Australian business has been awarded a slew of sustainability accolades because of its ethical and sustainability commitments. Made of natural rubber, organic and Fairtrade cotton (including the laces) and non-toxic dyes (though more of the Converse Chucks styling than Stan Smiths, still a classic look!).</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191994/original/file-20171026-28079-12806o4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191994/original/file-20171026-28079-12806o4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191994/original/file-20171026-28079-12806o4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191994/original/file-20171026-28079-12806o4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191994/original/file-20171026-28079-12806o4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191994/original/file-20171026-28079-12806o4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191994/original/file-20171026-28079-12806o4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191994/original/file-20171026-28079-12806o4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Kota, high tops with tire soles.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Indosole</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p><strong><a href="https://indosole.com">Indosole</a></strong></p>
<p>The soles of these vegan sneakers are made from recycled tires. The shoes’ uppers are made of organic cotton canvas, banana leaves and grass. All shoes are handmade, avoiding manufacturing emissions.</p>
<h2>Most importantly, avoid fast fashion</h2>
<p>The best way to reduce the environmental cost of your sneakers is to hang onto them for as long as you can (fortunately, white sneakers are a classic look). </p>
<p>The “fast fashion” business model means garments and accessories are <a href="https://theconversation.com/for-a-true-war-on-waste-the-fashion-industry-must-spend-more-on-research-78673">increasingly ending up in landfills</a>. You can <a href="https://www.mrporter.com/journal/how-to/how-to-keep-your-sneakers-clean/418">care for your shoes</a> by gently washing them and polishing them until they are no longer wearable. </p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/for-a-true-war-on-waste-the-fashion-industry-must-spend-more-on-research-78673">For a true war on waste, the fashion industry must spend more on research</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<p>Have some good quality sneakers you just aren’t wearing? Take them to your <a href="http://opshop.org/">nearest op shop</a> or check out <a href="http://www.shoesforplanetearth.com/shoe-collectors/">Shoes for Planet Earth</a> to make a donation.</p>
<p>Have some really worn sneakers? Nike recycles any sneakers with their <a href="https://en-gb-help.nike.com/app/answer/article/recycle-shoes/a_id/60721/country/au">Reuse-A-Shoe</a> program (not just their own brand) and turns them into Nike Grind, a material used to create courts, tracks, playgrounds and fields. All US-based stores accept worn sneakers; this program is not available in Australia, but if you’re feeling keen, you can mail them <a href="http://help-en-us.nike.com/app/answer/article/reuseashoe-faq/a_id/38356/p/3897">to this address</a>.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/85989/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Lisa Heinze is affiliated with sustainable fashion advocacy groups Clean Cut and Fashion Revolution through voluntary roles. </span></em></p>Iconic Stan Smiths can be styled with almost anything, but most white sneakers are costly to the environment. Lucky for us, there are many sustainable alternatives that are just as cool.Lisa Heinze, PhD candidate Sustainability, Fashion & Everyday Life, University of SydneyLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/821682017-09-21T09:03:59Z2017-09-21T09:03:59ZIt may not be possible to slow down fast fashion – so can the industry ever be sustainable?<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/182401/original/file-20170817-13501-1nq7ly4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">
</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Yeongha son/Shutterstock.com</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>The fashion industry has some major sustainability problems. By 2030, <a href="https://www.copenhagenfashionsummit.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Pulse-of-the-Fashion-Industry_2017.pdf">it is predicted</a> that the industry’s water consumption will grow by 50% to 118 billion cubic metres, its carbon footprint will increase to 2,791m tonnes and the amount of waste it creates will hit 148m tonnes.</p>
<p>These predictions are in spite of significant progress being made by brands and retailers to minimise their impact. Many are using <a href="https://www.solidaridadnetwork.org/sites/solidaridadnetwork.org/files/publications/Mind%20the%20Gap%20-%20Towards%20a%20more%20Sustainable%20Cotton%20Market.pdf">sustainable cotton initiatives</a> to reduce water, energy and chemical use, new dyeing technology to reduce water consumption by up to 50% as well as numerous energy and chemical saving schemes throughout the supply chain. In the UK, the result of this work is percolating through to stores, with a reduction in the carbon and water footprints per tonne of clothing of <a href="http://www.wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/valuing-our-clothes-the-cost-of-uk-fashion_WRAP.pdf">8% and 7% respectively since 2012</a>.</p>
<p>So the industry is reducing the environmental footprint of its products. But the problem has now shifted to the consumption side: the insatiable appetite for fashion means people are buying more and more clothes. Since 2012, there has been a <a href="http://www.wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/valuing-our-clothes-the-cost-of-uk-fashion_WRAP.pdf">10% increase</a> in the amount of clothing purchased in the UK alone. And not only are British consumers buying more; more of their clothing gets discarded quicker as they chase the latest fashion trends. <a href="http://www.wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/VoC%20FINAL%20online%202012%2007%2011.pdf">It is estimated</a> there is over £30 billion of clothing sitting in wardrobes across the UK that has’t been used for over 12 months. </p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/186973/original/file-20170921-8188-1pkc4n6.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/186973/original/file-20170921-8188-1pkc4n6.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=420&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/186973/original/file-20170921-8188-1pkc4n6.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=420&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/186973/original/file-20170921-8188-1pkc4n6.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=420&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/186973/original/file-20170921-8188-1pkc4n6.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=528&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/186973/original/file-20170921-8188-1pkc4n6.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=528&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/186973/original/file-20170921-8188-1pkc4n6.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=528&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Yet still we go shopping.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Christin Lola / Shutterstock.com</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Fast fashion is seen by many as the fundamental cause of all the sustainability issues the industry faces. And so <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-34984836">it has been suggested</a> by numerous commentators, academics and NGOs that ethical consumerism can and will lead to a paradigm shift in behaviour. Over time, it is thought, slow fashion will become the norm, with consumers wearing classically styled garments that last for ten years. This, so they say, will minimise the need to make new purchases of the latest fashion fad, therefore reducing impacts. The logic of this argument is predicated on the idea that consumers are rational animals with behaviour that is controlled and predictable.</p>
<p>But the growth of ethical consumerism has not materialised in mainstream fashion. Ethically minded brands believe the single biggest issue stopping them becoming more sustainable <a href="https://www.copenhagenfashionsummit.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Pulse-of-the-Fashion-Industry_2017.pdf">is the consumer</a>; either through their lack of awareness of the issues faced by the industry or through an unwillingness to pay for sustainable products. </p>
<p>So can ethical consumerism really exist in the mainstream fashion market? Psychology and behavioural science may suggest that ethical fashion consumerism is a pipe dream. We believe our purchasing decisions are based on rational, conscious and well thought out deliberations. But the complexity of human behaviour and the fundamental nature of fashion implies that ethical consumption may not be an attainable goal. </p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/186975/original/file-20170921-8242-v8v86w.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/186975/original/file-20170921-8242-v8v86w.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=420&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/186975/original/file-20170921-8242-v8v86w.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=420&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/186975/original/file-20170921-8242-v8v86w.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=420&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/186975/original/file-20170921-8242-v8v86w.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=528&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/186975/original/file-20170921-8242-v8v86w.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=528&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/186975/original/file-20170921-8242-v8v86w.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=528&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Sustainability probably isn’t the first consideration.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">bbernard / Shutterstock.com</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<h2>Fashion and ego</h2>
<p>Why is this the case?</p>
<p>First, it is important to explain that marketing tools such as questionnaires and surveys used to predict the growth of ethical consumption are problematic. They are good for identifying purchase intention but poor for predicting actual behaviour. Surveys tend to illicit a response that presents the participant in a positive light: non ethical shoppers tend to state they are ethical to protect their external image. And surveys are reliant on the participant being truthful and knowledgeable about their behaviour. How truthful we are is debatable and <a href="http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/pdf/10.1177/0013916502034003004">research shows</a> we are not as knowledgeable as we think we are about the drivers for our behaviour.</p>
<p>Our behaviour is far more selfish than we might like to believe. Rational models of consumption are based on the idea that individuals make choices that balance costs and benefits. An ethical consumer will make rational judgements about purchases on the best outcome in terms of costs and benefits for them and the environment. </p>
<p>But consumption, and in particular fashion consumption, is quite irrational. Purchase decisions are more likely to be driven by desires linked to pleasure and excitement. Fashion is a social activity for setting our status (the <a href="http://www.rug.nl/research/portal/publications/the-significance-of-hedonic-values-for-environmentally-relevant-attitudes-preferences-and-actions(23d098fe-865e-48d5-9a1e-716d84d0859c).html">egoistical drivers</a>) but it is also an activity that is driven by emotional desires such as the fantasy, excitement and aspirations of living a better, more fulfilling life. </p>
<p>These hedonistic subconscious forces are what make shopping for clothes exciting and pleasurable. They create a less rational approach to consumption which ultimately reduces the influence of rational thoughts about ethics and the environmental consequences of our purchases. </p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/186977/original/file-20170921-8199-z596tp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/186977/original/file-20170921-8199-z596tp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=420&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/186977/original/file-20170921-8199-z596tp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=420&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/186977/original/file-20170921-8199-z596tp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=420&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/186977/original/file-20170921-8199-z596tp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=528&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/186977/original/file-20170921-8199-z596tp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=528&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/186977/original/file-20170921-8199-z596tp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=528&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Fashion is rarely that rational.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Elena Rostunova / Shutterstock.com</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<h2>Fast and ethical fashion</h2>
<p>Ethical campaigners, journalists and even some brands have argued that consumers would be able overcome these subconscious forces of fun and excitement if they had more information about the ethical issues. But <a href="http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.470.7147&rep=rep1&type=pdf">evidence shows</a> that this does little to increase ethical behaviour. In fact, more information tends to reduce the influence of ethical issues due to the complexity of the issues. </p>
<p>This complexity is doubled by the amount of conflicting information produced by NGOs, the media and brands themselves: cotton is bad for the environment; microfibres are poisoning the oceans; bamboo is ethical (<a href="https://changingmarkets.org/portfolio/dirty-fashion/">it’s not</a>). When the experts can’t agree on the big issues for fashion, it’s that much easier for the consumer to turn a blind eye and buy that new shirt.</p>
<p>An alternative, radical approach may be to recognise that humans have always used fashion to satisfy emotional, egoistical desires. So the challenge should be shifted from trying to control these primeval, irrational behaviours to finding a systemic and ethical approach to embrace them. </p>
<p>Can we find sustainable solutions that actually move ever closer to a disposable fashion industry? The desire for new clothes is something that may be impossible to change. So instead of trying to appeal to the consumer’s supposed ethical streak, perhaps brands should aim instead to use new technology and business models to design products that can be recycled or re-engineered into new styles with minimal use of virgin materials, water, energy and chemicals. </p>
<p>In this model, we would not aim to change thousands of years of evolution in the space of a generation, but use innovation and creativity to make industry bend to our inherent needs. It is a major technical and commercial challenge, but shifting to such a consumer-driven model may open up new opportunities for business, as well as becoming more sustainable.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/82168/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Mark Sumner does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>Our behaviour is far more selfish than we might like to believe.Mark Sumner, Lecturer in Sustainablity, Fashion and Retail, University of LeedsLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/822402017-09-01T00:23:37Z2017-09-01T00:23:37ZYour organic T-shirt is doomed to end up in a dump<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/184250/original/file-20170831-22403-ilhkv2.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">British actress Emma Watson was featured in Marie Claire's sustainability issue: She wears only sustainable clothing on the red carpet.
</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">(AP Photo/Michel Euler)</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>Recently <em>Marie Claire,</em> a major fashion magazine, published its first ever sustainability issue. It represents one of the first times mainstream fashion turned a comprehensive and thoughtful eye on itself with regards to environmental and social issues. </p>
<p>Issues like climate change, sustainability, or <a href="https://www.theatlantic.com/business/archive/2017/05/rana-plaza-four-years-later/525252/">accidents in garment factories</a>, like the one in Bangladesh that caused the deaths of 1,110 people, get mass spotlight coverage in mainstream news media and in fashion magazines but only for a short time. During this news cycle readers are horrified about the human condition but then the issue is quickly forgotten and normalcy ensues. </p>
<p>However, the <a href="http://www.marieclaire.com/sustainable-issue/">Aug. 2017 <em>Marie Claire</em></a> issue devoted itself fully to social and environmental concerns within the fashion industry. Historically, fashion magazines stay away from such issues. Instead, they push new trends, discuss celebrities, plug designers and push major brands — and in doing so — cater to their paid advertisers.</p>
<p>Yet, the current state of the fashion industry — within the context of climate change, resource depletion and other ethical concerns — must be questioned. What is the role of media and advertising in creating a necessary shift to a more sustainable fashion industry? </p>
<p>While <em>Marie Claire</em>‘s sustainability issue is a great step forward, its approach fails to question the underlying problem of over consumption. </p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/183921/original/file-20170830-5615-1a8pvnc.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/183921/original/file-20170830-5615-1a8pvnc.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=725&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/183921/original/file-20170830-5615-1a8pvnc.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=725&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/183921/original/file-20170830-5615-1a8pvnc.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=725&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/183921/original/file-20170830-5615-1a8pvnc.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=911&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/183921/original/file-20170830-5615-1a8pvnc.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=911&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/183921/original/file-20170830-5615-1a8pvnc.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=911&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Marie Claire’s first-ever sustainability issue promoted technology as one way to save fashion.</span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>The issue offers some basic tips like telling readers to use reusable water bottles and energy efficient lightbulbs. It also includes fascinating profiles and a section featuring sustainable fashion alternatives. </p>
<p>But the magazine does not feature any articles on sustainable fashion. This surface approach doesn’t make us question our current lifestyles, habits or behaviours. </p>
<p>The primary change we need in the fashion industry must come from consumers. Consumers need to chose a more sustainable lifestyle. We simply cannot keep consuming at the current rate and volume if we are to make effective change with regards to climate change, the environment and other pressing social issues.</p>
<h2>Fashion’s role in climate change</h2>
<p>If the fashion industry maintains current trajectories of production and consumption, these pressures will intensify to the point of threatening the very survival of the industry. </p>
<p>Successful solutions mitigating the effects of climate change, resource depletion, wildlife survival and wide-scale global pollution will require us, as a collective whole, to change how we live. </p>
<p>Overall <a href="https://www.copenhagenfashionsummit.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Pulse-of-the-Fashion-Industry_2017.pdf">apparel consumption is predicted to rise by 63 per cent</a> by 2030: from 62 million tons today to 102 million tons according to <em><a href="https://www.copenhagenfashionsummit.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Pulse-of-the-Fashion-Industry_2017.pdf">Pulse of the Fashion Industry</a></em> a recent report on the state of the industry. </p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/184251/original/file-20170831-22416-1buq59h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/184251/original/file-20170831-22416-1buq59h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/184251/original/file-20170831-22416-1buq59h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/184251/original/file-20170831-22416-1buq59h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/184251/original/file-20170831-22416-1buq59h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/184251/original/file-20170831-22416-1buq59h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/184251/original/file-20170831-22416-1buq59h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">A file photo of a clothing spill art installation on Seattle’s Alki Beach to bring attention to textile waste on Earth Day 2016. Within 12 years, fashion waste will total 148 million tons or 17.5kg per capita across the planet.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">(AP Photo/Elaine Thompson)</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>To add to that, fashion industry waste created during the same time period, will increase by about 60 per cent, resulting in an additional 57 million tons of waste generated annually. </p>
<p>This means that within 12 years, fashion waste will total 148 million tons or 17.5kg per capita across the planet. Currently, only 20 per cent of clothing is collected for reuse or recycling with the vast majority ending up in landfills or incineration.</p>
<h2>Technology will not save us</h2>
<p><em>Marie Claire</em> has taken the first step and brought the discussion to a mainstream publication, for a wide audience. </p>
<p>To involve industry experts for their special issue, <em>Marie Claire</em> created an advisory board comprised of socially conscious designers, the Dean at Parson’s School of Fashion and Amazon’s worldwide sustainability director. Their guest editor for the issue was Miroslava Duma, founder of <a href="http://www.nyftlab.com/miroslava-duma/">Fashion Tech Lab</a>, an accelerator and experimental laboratory to commercialise innovative technologies for the fashion industry. </p>
<p>One of the biggest messages in this issue promoted technology as the silver bullet solution. The idea is that technology will save us from ourselves, allowing us to retain our current lifestyles and behaviours. </p>
<p>Technology solutions may help but are not the only road forward, nor should we rely on them to fix the problem. For example, due to technical limitations, clothing can’t be fully recycled right now. Therefore programs touted in <em>Marie Claire</em>’s issue, like H&M’s “<a href="http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/ladies/shop-by-feature/8eb-bring-it-on.html">Don’t let fashion go to waste</a>” — which encourages customers to bring their old clothing to recycling boxes in their stores — do help but are not effective solutions. </p>
<p>It would take <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/jul/29/fashion-must-fight-scourge-dumped-clothing-landfill">12 years for H&M to use up 1,000 tons of fashion waste, which roughly equates to the same amount the brand produces in 48 hrs</a>. Even if clothing could be fully recycled right now, the sheer volume, poor quality and the fact that textiles are not currently made to be recycled are major problems.</p>
<h2>A glossy can be happy and smart</h2>
<p>The issue features interesting stories on sustainable fashion favourites like eco-chic label, <a href="https://www.thereformation.com/">Reformation</a> and profiles on a strong line-up of eco-fashion activist women like Emma Watson, Livia Firth and meteorologist Kait Parker. </p>
<p>But if an organic t-shirt ends up in a landfill, it’s still a t-shirt in a landfill. It doesn’t matter how sustainable it is. </p>
<p>Approaches that promote “must have” sustainable options once a year in a special issue only make us feel good about consuming eco-products. They allow us to wilfully ignore the real issues. </p>
<p>As fashion magazines are a business, the goal is to sell as many ads as possible, as media survives on ads. Only those at the top of the fashion chain can afford to buy space in these glossy newsstand magazines. This can affect how information is presented: Advertised products must be seen in a most desirable light.</p>
<p>However fashion’s impact on climate change is complex and of urgent global concern. It requires everyone — including fashion magazines — to participate, if we are to find meaningful solutions. </p>
<p>Furthering the conversation on more sustainable lifestyles can be achieved in a positive, happy manner — in the editorial style of a glossy magazine. </p>
<h2>Less consumption is the only way forward</h2>
<p>The hopeful thing about <em>Marie Claire</em>’s attempt to introduce sustainable fashion to its readers is that sustainable fashion no longer suffers from segmentation.</p>
<p>Nevertheless, it needn’t be spotlighted in a special issue. Instead, fashion magazines should feature sustainable clothing every month — allowing sustainable and alternative fashion coverage within stories on large brands and retailers. </p>
<p>Fashion consumers should be exposed to rad eco-warriors every month. Articles could discuss issues like how to consume less with helpful tips about mending and upcycling. Editorial articles could detail what goes into creating fashion and include ideas about the future of fashion. Profiles could feature innovative start-ups. </p>
<p>It is time for sustainability to become part of the everyday and not a spotlight issue. Mainstream fashion media and consumers alike need to start reflecting and taking actions to collectively transition to a more sustainable society.</p>
<p>The August 2017 sustainability <em>Marie Claire</em> is beautiful and hopeful. A gorgeous Jessica Biel graces the cover, clothed in a cobalt blue jumpsuit (though not sustainable) with large red lettering across the middle: “Fashion to the rescue.” Unfortunately, perpetuation of this type of belief is dangerous. Fashion will not save us, we need to save fashion.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/82240/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Anika Kozlowski does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>Climate change needs to be front and centre in fashion, which is one of the most polluting industries. Fashion magazines can help consumers to embrace more sustainable lifestyles.Anika Kozlowski, PhD Candidate Sustainable Fashion & Lecturer, School of Fashion, Toronto Metropolitan UniversityLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/786732017-08-15T20:14:48Z2017-08-15T20:14:48ZFor a true war on waste, the fashion industry must spend more on research<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/180496/original/file-20170801-14795-roc1jr.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">A model wears one of the author's original zero waste designs.</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Author provided</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>The rise of fast fashion in Australia means 6000 kg of clothing is dumped in landfill every 10 minutes. The <a href="http://iview.abc.net.au/programs/war-on-waste-stories/DC1624H013S00#playing">ABC’s War On Waste </a> visualised this statistic by piling a giant mound of clothing waste in the middle of the city. So what to do about it?</p>
<figure class="align-left zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/180638/original/file-20170801-29110-1qg9jks.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/180638/original/file-20170801-29110-1qg9jks.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/180638/original/file-20170801-29110-1qg9jks.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=385&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/180638/original/file-20170801-29110-1qg9jks.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=385&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/180638/original/file-20170801-29110-1qg9jks.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=385&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/180638/original/file-20170801-29110-1qg9jks.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=483&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/180638/original/file-20170801-29110-1qg9jks.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=483&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/180638/original/file-20170801-29110-1qg9jks.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=483&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">A scene from the ABC’s War on Waste.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">ABC</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Sustainable fashion experts advocate abstaining from buying fast fashion, promoting clothing swaps and repairing old clothing. Others suggest buying organic and ethically-sourced clothes or designing clothing using zero waste techniques. The hope is that greater transparency in supply chains will lead to an end to sweatshops and unsustainable fashion practices. </p>
<p>These are admirable initiatives, but they only reduce wastage or delay garments from ending up in landfill. They do not address the fact that the scale of fast fashion is so massive it can easily eclipse other sustainability initiatives.
Nor do they address the wastefulness of existing technologies and the urgent need to research new ones. </p>
<p>Even if we could magically stop the global production of all garments, we would still need new, green technology to clean up the waste we have already created. There are long-term strategies for green technologies such as electric cars, but where are the major companies and research institutes developing the next generation of sustainable fashion technologies? The development of new synthetic biology technologies may be the key. </p>
<h2>From catwalk to research</h2>
<p>I would like to share my journey from zero waste fashion design pioneer to trans-disciplinary fashion researcher to highlight the challenges faced by sustainable fashion and the need for more research.</p>
<p>Ten years ago, I presented my <a href="http://www.drmarkliu.com/zerowaste-fashion-1/">“Zero-Waste” Fashion collection</a> at London Fashion Week. I and other sustainable designers at the time took the waste streams of other industries such as scrap materials and leftover fabric and created our collections from them. I was selected for “Estethica”, a new initiative created by sustainable fashion gurus <a href="http://fashionrevolution.org/interview-with-orsola-de-castro-co-founder-of-fashion-revolution-day/">Orsola De Castro</a>, Filippo Ricci and Anna Orsini from the British Fashion Council. Sustainable fashion was shown on London catwalks next to luxury fashion - a revolutionary step for the time.</p>
<p>I pioneered a way of creating tailored, high fashion garments so that all the pieces of a garment fitted together like a jigsaw puzzle and no waste was created. Conventional pattern cutting creates about 15% wastage of material, even if the pattern has been optimised by a computer. I wanted to systemically change the way clothing was made.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/180637/original/file-20170801-29110-sxmdyy.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/180637/original/file-20170801-29110-sxmdyy.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/180637/original/file-20170801-29110-sxmdyy.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=230&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/180637/original/file-20170801-29110-sxmdyy.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=230&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/180637/original/file-20170801-29110-sxmdyy.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=230&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/180637/original/file-20170801-29110-sxmdyy.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=290&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/180637/original/file-20170801-29110-sxmdyy.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=290&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/180637/original/file-20170801-29110-sxmdyy.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=290&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">To design a garment with zero waste requires new patternmaking techniques, based on advanced mathematics.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Author provided</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>But the problem with zero-waste design is that it is very difficult to create. It requires a skilled designer to simultaneously imagine the garment as a 3D item and a flat pattern, while trying to fit the pieces together like a jigsaw. It is easy to make an unfitted or baggy garment, but creating something that looks good and fits the body was a real challenge.</p>
<p>Even after all these years, most contemporary zero-waste fashion is still not tailored to the body. I practised this technique for years to master it. It required breaking all the rules of conventional pattern-making and creating new techniques based on advanced mathematics. </p>
<p>These were exciting times. Our fabrics were organic, we made everything locally and ensured everyone was paid an ethical wage. The press loved our story. But problems started to emerge when it came to sales. We had to sell more expensive garments, using a smaller range of fabrics - our materials and labour costs were higher than those of companies that produced overseas. Often fashion buyers would say they loved what we did, but after looking at the price tag would politely take their business elsewhere. </p>
<p>As a sustainable fashion designer, my impact was limited. It was also impossible to teach zero-waste fashion design without explaining how advanced mathematics applied to it. It was time to try a new approach, so I decided to apply science and maths to traditional fashion techniques. </p>
<p><a href="http://newsroom.uts.edu.au/news/2016/08/disruptive-fashion">My PhD research explored the underlying geometry of fashion pattern-making.</a> Combining fashion with science allowed the traditional techniques and artistry of making garments to be explained and communicated to scientist and engineers. </p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/180644/original/file-20170802-11377-1rgs3gb.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/180644/original/file-20170802-11377-1rgs3gb.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/180644/original/file-20170802-11377-1rgs3gb.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/180644/original/file-20170802-11377-1rgs3gb.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/180644/original/file-20170802-11377-1rgs3gb.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/180644/original/file-20170802-11377-1rgs3gb.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/180644/original/file-20170802-11377-1rgs3gb.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/180644/original/file-20170802-11377-1rgs3gb.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Consumers have embraced fast fashion.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">shutterstock</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>In the meantime, fast fashion companies rapidly expanded, with Zara, Topshop and H&M reaching Australia by 2011. <a href="http://www.thefashionlaw.com/learn/fast-fashions-green-initiatives-dont-believe-the-hype">They produced massive amounts of cheap products making low margins on each garment.</a> Consumers quickly became addicted to the instant gratification of this retail experience. The size and scale of their production produced hundreds of tonnes of garments every day. </p>
<h2>The limits of fashion technology</h2>
<p>Fast fashion companies such as H&M have developed recycling initiatives in which <a href="https://about.hm.com/en/sustainability/get-involved/recycle-your-clothes.html">consumers can exchange old clothing for discount vouchers.</a> This is supposed to prevent clothing from going to landfill, instead recycling it into new clothing.</p>
<p>However, there are those who are sceptical of H&M’s recycling process. In 2016, investigative journalist Lucy Siegle crunched the numbers and concluded that <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2016/apr/03/rana-plaza-campaign-handm-recycling#comments">“it appears it would take 12 years for H&M to use up 1,000 tons of fashion waste”</a>. This, she said, was the amount of clothing they produce in about 48 hours. </p>
<p><a href="http://sustainability.hm.com/content/dam/hm/about/documents/en/CSR/2016%20Sustainability%20report/HM_group_SustainabilityReport_2016_FullReport_en.pdf">A 2016 H&M sustainability report reveals that only 0.7%</a> of their clothes are actually made from recycled or other sustainably-sourced materials. In the report, <a href="http://sustainability.hm.com/content/dam/hm/about/documents/en/CSR/2016%20Sustainability%20report/HM_group_SustainabilityReport_2016_FullReport_en.pdf">H&M acknowledges</a> :</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Today, this is not possible because the technology for recycling is limited. For this reason, the share of recycled materials in our products is still relatively small.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In fact, their 2016 annual <a href="https://about.hm.com/content/dam/hmgroup/groupsite/documents/masterlanguage/Annual%20Report/Annual%20Report%202016.pdf">report states</a> that more research is needed:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>if a greater proportion of recycled fibres is to be added to the garments without compromising quality, and also to be able to separate fibres contained in mixed materials. </p>
</blockquote>
<p>Sustainable technologies strive for a “circular economy”, in which materials can be infinitely recycled. Yet this technology is only in its infancy and needs much more research funding. <a href="https://globalchangeaward.com/">H&M’s Global Change Award</a> funds five start-up companies with a total of 1 million Euros for new solutions. Contrast this with the millions required by the most basic Silicon Valley start-ups or billions for major green technology companies such as <a href="https://www.tesla.com">Tesla</a> or <a href="http://www.solarcity.com/">SolarCity</a>. There is a dire need for disruptive new fashion technology. </p>
<p>Many of the promising new technologies require getting <a href="http://science.sciencemag.org/content/351/6278/1196">bacteria</a> or fungi to grow or biodegrade the fabrics for us - this is a shift to researching the fundamental technologies behind fashion items.</p>
<p>For example, it takes 2700L of water and over 120 days to grow enough cotton to make a T-shirt. However, in nature, bacteria such as “acetobacter xylinum” can grow a sheet of cellulose in hours. Clothing grown from bacteria has been pioneered by <a href="http://www.biofabricate.co/">Dr Suzanne Lee</a>. If a breakthrough can be made so that commercially grown cotton can be grown from bacteria, it may be possible to replace cotton fields with more efficient bacteria vats. </p>
<figure>
<iframe width="440" height="260" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UQBhwVD5rAE?wmode=transparent&start=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
</figure>
<p>But why just stick with cotton? Fabrics can be generated from milk, seaweed, crab shells, banana waste or coconut waste. Companies such as <a href="https://www.ecovativedesign.com/">Ecovate</a> can feed fabric fibres to mushroom spore called mycelium to create bioplastics or biodegradable packaging for companies such as Dell. Adidas has 3D printed a <a href="http://news.adidas.com/us/Latest-News/adidas-unveils-world-s-first-performance-shoe--made-from-biosteel--fiber/s/88ed218c-68a0-43ba-9ce2-4e87bce30652">biodegradable shoe from spider silk developed by AM silk</a>. </p>
<p>Although I began my journey as a fashion designer, a new generation of materials and technologies has pulled me from the catwalk into the science lab. To address these complex issues, collaboration between designers, scientist, engineers and business people has become essential.</p>
<p>To clean up the past and address the waste problems of the future, further investment in fashion technology is urgently needed. </p>
<p><em>Mark Liu’s podcast interview for the ABC’s War on Waste series will be published on the ABC online tomorrow.</em></p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/78673/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Mark Liu does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>The scale of fast fashion is so massive it can easily eclipse sustainability initiatives. We need investment in new technologies to revolutionise the industry.Mark Liu, Chancellors Postdoctoral Research Fellow, Fashion and Textiles Designer, University of Technology SydneyLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/684982016-11-22T01:51:50Z2016-11-22T01:51:50ZWill we soon be growing our own vegan leather at home?<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146865/original/image-20161121-4547-459c7s.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">A floral wreath made from vegan leather designed by Sofia Moreno-Marcos and York Hon John Liang in 2014.</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">QUT media</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>Conventional leather is one of fashion’s most ubiquitous materials – but it is fraught with ethical and environmental issues. We have been growing vegan leather from kombucha tea since 2014 – and the results are promising.</p>
<figure class="align-left zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146149/original/image-20161116-31142-19agznj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146149/original/image-20161116-31142-19agznj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146149/original/image-20161116-31142-19agznj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=902&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146149/original/image-20161116-31142-19agznj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=902&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146149/original/image-20161116-31142-19agznj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=902&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146149/original/image-20161116-31142-19agznj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1133&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146149/original/image-20161116-31142-19agznj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1133&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146149/original/image-20161116-31142-19agznj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1133&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">A jar of kombucha tea.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">QUT media</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Kombucha is a ferment made by adding a mixed symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast, (known as SCOBY) to sweetened tea. The bacteria acquire nutrients from the yeast, and grow a protective mass of cellulose monofibres, called a pellicle.</p>
<p>The pellicle (also called the mother) floats on the surface of the liquid, and will take the shape of its container. After a few weeks, when it has grown to a thickness of about 10mm, it can be harvested, washed (by hand or machine), oiled and air dried. </p>
<p>The material which results is a flexible, leathery sheet that can be cut, stitched, glued or woven. The pellicle dyes readily while still wet, and takes the shape of whatever supports it as it dries. Complex shapes can be formed by cutting the sheet into strips, and layering them over a form. As they dry, the wet strips fuse into a continuous sheet.</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146859/original/image-20161121-4564-1n45g6b.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146859/original/image-20161121-4564-1n45g6b.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146859/original/image-20161121-4564-1n45g6b.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=399&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146859/original/image-20161121-4564-1n45g6b.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=399&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146859/original/image-20161121-4564-1n45g6b.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=399&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146859/original/image-20161121-4564-1n45g6b.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=502&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146859/original/image-20161121-4564-1n45g6b.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=502&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146859/original/image-20161121-4564-1n45g6b.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=502&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">The wet kombucha.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">QUT media</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>The technology of growing and using kombucha cellulose as vegan leather has been explored over the past few years through a collaboration between the Fashion department, Queensland University of Technology and scientists from The Edge, State Library of Queensland. They have trialled methods for preparation, treatment and manufacture of garments, shoes, jewellery and bags.</p>
<p>Just like animal based leathers, our leather-like items such as shoes and bags require reinforcing and finishing to increase durability. Shoe styles vary from casual slip-ons to more conceptual designs with handmade wooden heels and soles.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146862/original/image-20161121-4531-r09a09.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146862/original/image-20161121-4531-r09a09.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146862/original/image-20161121-4531-r09a09.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=357&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146862/original/image-20161121-4531-r09a09.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=357&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146862/original/image-20161121-4531-r09a09.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=357&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146862/original/image-20161121-4531-r09a09.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=448&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146862/original/image-20161121-4531-r09a09.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=448&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146862/original/image-20161121-4531-r09a09.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=448&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Kombucha shoe design, Chinoiserie, by Alex Parker-Wilkin, Maritha Appel and Emma Tothill, 2015.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Alice Payne</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>We have experimented with waxing the vegan leather to increase water resistance, laminating it to increase overall strength and wearability, and painting it with acrylics to dramatically change its appearance and improve longevity. </p>
<p>As a naturally sustainable material, kombucha leather has many advantages. Unlike the patternmaking process for traditional leather, <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/15/fashion/15waste.html">which typically wastes 15% to 20% in the cutting</a> due to garment pattern shapes, kombucha leather can be grown with zero waste, in tubs shaped as garment pattern pieces.</p>
<h2>Can it work on a large scale?</h2>
<p>But can kombucha be commercialized at a scale to be a viable vegan alternative to leather? There are two main barriers to overcome: the sweet but pungent aroma (familiar to any home brewer) and water absorption. </p>
<p>Like animal-based tanned leathers, kombucha leather is not waterproof. Rubbing in natural essential oils or beeswax as a sealant can address both scent and water resistance, although traces of the smell will remain.</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146868/original/image-20161121-4560-583d8j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146868/original/image-20161121-4560-583d8j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146868/original/image-20161121-4560-583d8j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=399&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146868/original/image-20161121-4560-583d8j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=399&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146868/original/image-20161121-4560-583d8j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=399&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146868/original/image-20161121-4560-583d8j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=502&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146868/original/image-20161121-4560-583d8j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=502&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146868/original/image-20161121-4560-583d8j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=502&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Kombucha growing.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">QUT media</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>These simple treatments make the material showerproof, but like leather, more work is required to make it truly impervious. Without a sealant, the kombucha could become sticky if worn in the rain. Full water resistance can be achieved if using acrylic or oil based sealers, but then the material is no longer safely biodegradable.</p>
<p>However, commercialization in the mass-market sense is only one avenue to explore.
Like many other potentially disruptive technologies, production of kombucha is decentralised, democratised and personal. It gives people the means to make their own leather products on a small-scale.</p>
<p>Knowledge could be shared and grown across wide networks using available media, as parallel communities of tinkerers and makers connect. Free and open exchange of knowledge is a hallmark of these communities. Our project is only one of many such projects mushrooming globally – from trailblazer <a href="http://www.biofabricate.co/">Suzanne Lee</a> with her bio-couture jackets, to <a href="http://www.kombuchacouture.com/">Sacha Laurin</a> with her runway creations in California, to the <a href="http://scobytec.tumblr.com/">ScobyTec</a> start-up in Germany with prototype biker jackets incorporating wearable technology.</p>
<figure class="align-left zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146866/original/image-20161121-4535-1oyqxn4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146866/original/image-20161121-4535-1oyqxn4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146866/original/image-20161121-4535-1oyqxn4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=806&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146866/original/image-20161121-4535-1oyqxn4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=806&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146866/original/image-20161121-4535-1oyqxn4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=806&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146866/original/image-20161121-4535-1oyqxn4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1013&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146866/original/image-20161121-4535-1oyqxn4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1013&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146866/original/image-20161121-4535-1oyqxn4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1013&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">The Earthwalker shoe by Paige Philogene, Thomas Rogers and Max Donker.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Alice Payne</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Looking to the future, kombucha cellulose may play a role as a mass-market alternative to leather. From the beginning of our project, sustainability and waste minimisation have been a priority. So treatments using artificial agents have been largely avoided. </p>
<p>The environmental ills of clothing production (waste generation, chemical toxicity, energy intensity) are rightly receiving increasing attention, and the search for sustainable materials is ramping up.</p>
<p>The world’s largest apparel brands are developing innovations in circular production methods, in which materials can be closed loop recycled, formed from pre-or post-consumer waste, or safely biodegraded at end-of-life – see <a href="http://www.ecouterre.com/puma-unveils-incycle-line-of-cradle-to-cradle-certified-apparel-footwear/puma-incycle-cradle-to-cradle-1/">PUMA’s cradle to cradle sneakers</a> or <a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com.au/entry/nike-recycled-shoes_us_5733436fe4b0bc9cb048b398">Nike’s utilization of waste</a>.</p>
<p>In addition, developing biotextiles has become fashionable, with novel biodegradable materials developed from waste pineapple leaf fibres (<a href="http://www.ananas-anam.com/pinatex/">Piñatex™</a>) and <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/sustainable-fashion-blog/2015/feb/17/grow-compost-wedding-dress-homegrown-fashion">fungi</a>, and <a href="https://tedxinnovations.ted.com/2015/09/14/spotlight-tedx-talk-the-new-fashion-clothes-colored-by-algae/">textile dyes from algae</a> garnering “likes” and shares on social media. </p>
<p>For now, kombucha growing provides local, individual makers with sustainable materials – and allows them to tap into the knowledge of a networked global community. This suggests a parallel fashion future in which makers grow their own garments, sharing the SCOBY locally, but ideas and instructions globally.</p>
<p><a href="http://edgeqld.org.au/kombucha/">Download your instructions from here</a> and try growing your own today.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/68498/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>The authors do not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and have disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>Conventional leather is fraught with ethical and environmental issues. But leather grown from fermented kombucha tea offers consumers a glimpse of a DIY, sustainable future.Alice Payne, Lecturer in Fashion, Queensland University of Technology, Queensland University of TechnologyDean Brough, Senior Fashion Studio Lecturer, Queensland University of TechnologyPeter Musk, Science Catalyst at The Edge, State Library of QueenslandLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/661882016-09-29T09:53:08Z2016-09-29T09:53:08ZIf Patagonia’s business model is a paragon of virtue, should more companies follow suit?<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/139560/original/image-20160928-572-1lm351x.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">
</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Michal Jastrzebski / shutterstock.com</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>“Buy Less; Choose Well; Make it Last” is a business philosophy long espoused by the doyenne of the British fashion industry, <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/membership/video/2014/oct/29/vivienne-westwood-capitalism-clothing-video">Vivienne Westwood</a>. As a remedy to rampant consumerism and the throwaway culture of fast-fashion, a few clothing brands actively encourage their customers to buy less. But can buying less be good business? </p>
<p>The renowned, outdoor-lifestyle clothing brand <a href="https://eu.patagonia.com/enGB/patagonia.go?assetid=8945">Patagonia</a> clearly thinks so. The origins of the brand lie in the entrepreneurial exploits of avid climber, <a href="http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2016/09/19/patagonias-philosopher-king">Yvon Chouinard</a>, who made specialised climbing equipment in his back yard. In particular, he made reusable pitons – the small spikes that climbers hammer into rock cracks to attach safety ropes – out of hard rather than soft steel. As demand grew, small-scale, hand-made, craft production eventually gave way to small-scale, mechanised production.</p>
<p>However, Chouinard soon recognised that his burgeoning success in producing high quality, reusable pitons had a downside. On a climbing trip he noticed that the constant hammering in and removal of the pitons was causing the environmental degradation of the very mountains that he and his friends loved. Despite being market leaders, Chouinard and his business partner decided to stop making pitons.</p>
<p>Today, Patagonia focus on clothing rather than equipment, but this story is retold on the Patagonia website as part of the brand’s mythology. The story also gets to the nub of the problem facing any brand that supports consumption activities that take place in nature: how do you enjoy nature without destroying it?</p>
<h2>Cause no unnecessary harm</h2>
<p>When we studied <a href="http://opus.bath.ac.uk/32762/1/JCR_2013.pdf">surfing culture</a>, we identified what we called practices of redress. This means that companies like Patagonia are aware of the paradox implicit to their business, but rather than ignore it, they try to minimise their effects. </p>
<p>For Patagonia, redress is written into their mission statement: “Build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis.” Practically, this translates into maintaining high ethical and environmental standards as a source of competitive advantage.</p>
<p>To this end, Patagonia engages in a range of innovative business programmes. Its <a href="http://eu.patagonia.com/enGB/footprint/">Footprint Chronicles programme</a>, for example, uses “transparency about our supply chain to help us reduce our adverse social and environmental impacts – and on an industrial scale”.</p>
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<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/139561/original/image-20160928-564-dlj645.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/139561/original/image-20160928-564-dlj645.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=344&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/139561/original/image-20160928-564-dlj645.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=344&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/139561/original/image-20160928-564-dlj645.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=344&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/139561/original/image-20160928-564-dlj645.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=432&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/139561/original/image-20160928-564-dlj645.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=432&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/139561/original/image-20160928-564-dlj645.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=432&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
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<span class="caption">Patagonia allows you to track the carbon footprint of its products.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="http://eu.patagonia.com/enGB/footprint/">Patagonia</a></span>
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<p>Harnessing technologies to develop new materials, and to recycle old materials is also fundamental to Patagonia’s production processes. Its wetsuits for surfing are made from <a href="http://yulex.com/">Yulex</a> a natural rubber produced from sustainable forests.</p>
<p>Its New Localism programme, is perhaps the most concrete example of redress: “We can no longer pass through or visit remote wild places and trust they will remain that way.” Patagonia supports a range of grassroots activists and campaigners in a range of environmental projects and, as such, is a member of another Chouinard initiative <a href="http://onepercentfortheplanet.org">One Percent for the Planet</a>.</p>
<p>Set against this range of sustainable, environmental and corporate social responsibility programmes, Patagonia’s <a href="http://eu.patagonia.com/enGB/worn-wear/">Worn Wear</a> programme represents an effort to tackle the throwaway culture. Patagonia’s aim is to produce well-made products that last a long time. Aside from repairing up to 40,000 items a year in its US factory, it is also committed to teaching people how to do repair jobs themselves, producing how-to guides for those of us who no longer know the basics of sewing.</p>
<p>As a company, Patagonia practices what it preaches. Its values guide product development, supply chain management and the way it treats its staff, too. Employees at Patagonia’s headquarters in Southern California head to the beach at lunchtime as part of the company’s <a href="http://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/sme/book-review-let-my-people-go-surfing-by-yvon-chouinard-516333.html">forward-thinking flexitime</a> policy.</p>
<p>This, of course, is reflected in its marketing. Brand ambassadors are shown <a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christian-beamish/voyage-of-the-cormorant-sailing-part-two_b_1894424.html">striking out on adventures</a>, confident in their equipment; tough, prepared and practical.</p>
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<p>Patagonia turns over around US$600m a year selling a range of gear for climbing, surfing, fly-fishing, skiing and snowboarding. Clearly its values strike a chord with millions of consumers around the world. But what effect does this really have on the environment?</p>
<h2>Cut from the same cloth</h2>
<p>On the one hand, by educating its consumers to think, to reuse and to fix well-made stuff, Patagonia promotes its values as a political act of resistance against rampant <a href="http://eu.patagonia.com/enGB/worn-wear/">consumerism</a>: “Repair,” the CEO claims is “a radical act”. On the other hand, this might just be an effective way of positioning a brand to boost consumers’ sense of self-worth.</p>
<p>In reality, Patagonia is cut from the same cloth as many other premium brands. Vivienne Westwood and Aigle have sourced more “natural” materials for decades. Tricker’s and Barbour, like so many other heritage manufacturers, have always offered repair services. </p>
<p>Equally, each Patagonia product comes replete with brand associations that help its consumers to feel like an ethical adventurer, at one with nature. In this way Patagonia’s products add excitement to affluent, middle class consumers’ trips to the back country – or just the back garden.</p>
<p>What’s more, these issues are beyond one privately owned company’s control. Patagonia can only do so much to change cultural patterns of consumption. The opportunity, however, is to scale Patagonia’s success. That means other businesses adopting its ethical approach. And not just creating a compelling marketing strategy for its own consumers.</p>
<p>Hence, rather like the decision to give up making pitons, perhaps the final ascent that Patagonia now faces is the prospect of giving up its consumer-oriented strategies of differentiating itself from its competitors, and instead helping others adopt its innovative business programmes to make them the industry norm.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/66188/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>The authors do not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and have disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>As a remedy to rampant consumerism and the throwaway culture of fast-fashion, a few clothing brands actively encourage their customers to buy less.Avi Shankar, Professor of Consumer Research, University of BathRobin Canniford, Co-director Cluster For Organization, Society and Markets, The University of MelbourneLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/636492016-08-24T20:26:14Z2016-08-24T20:26:14ZWhy STEM subjects and fashion design go hand in hand<p>The fashion industry evokes images of impossibly beautiful people jet setting around the world in extravagant finery. Like a moth to the flames, it draws many of our most creative young minds. Often, the first instinct of high school students who want to work in creative industries is to drop all their math and science subjects to take up textiles and art. </p>
<p>As a fashion and textile designer myself, I would like to explain how this is a bad strategy and how the future of fashion requires <a href="https://www.academia.edu/27951162/SO_YOU_WANT_TO_BECOME_A_FASHION_DESIGNER_..%E2%80%8B">science, technology, engineering and mathematics</a> (STEM skills) more than ever.</p>
<p>Beneath the glamorous façade, the fashion industry is undergoing disruptive changes due to rapid advances in technology. We take it for granted that you can use your Iphone to watch a fashion runway show on YouTube, Google the garment to find an online retailer like Net-A-Porter, pay for it using PayPal and then upload a selfie onto Snapchat. None of these services even existed 20 years ago.</p>
<p>Materials that were theoretical thirty years ago have become pervasive. So when you buy yoga clothing from Lululemon that are “anti-bacterial” you are actually wearing fabrics that are coated in silver <a href="http://eng.thesaurus.rusnano.com/wiki/article1257">nano-whiskers</a>. Sportswear companies such as <a href="http://www.materialise.com/cases/software-solutions-help-nike-in-supporting-great-art">Nike</a> and <a href="http://www.materialise.com/cases/adidas-futurecraft-the-ultimate-3d-printed-personalized-shoe">Adidas</a> engage in a technological arms race of materials and technology. The reason why their latest shoes look like something out of science fiction is because the technology is truly cutting edge science.</p>
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<span class="caption">Actor Gwendoline Christie models a creation by Iris van Herpen.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Benoit Tessier/Reuters</span></span>
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<p>In 2011, Parisian High Fashion forever changed when designer Iris van Herpen was <a href="http://www.materialise.com/cases/iris-van-herpen-s-escapism">invited as a guest member</a> of La Chambre Syndicale de La Haute Couture. Van Herpen, who makes liberal use of hi tech materials such as magnetic fabric, laser cutters and custom developed thermoplastics which are 3D printed, was embraced by the oldest establishment as “Haute Couture”.</p>
<p>Even the supermodel Karlie Kloss advocates the importance of STEM skills for future careers in the tech industry and has a scholarship program <a href="http://kodewithklossy.com/">Kode with Klossy</a> that teaches young girls computer coding.</p>
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<span class="caption">Karlie Kloss: a fan of coding.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Danny Moloshok/Reuters</span></span>
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<p>Fashion is a unique blend of business, science, art and technology. It requires a polymath, a person who can understand all of these skills. The most compelling reasons to learn STEM skills is because technology and rapidly changing business models have made surviving in the business more competitive than ever. </p>
<p>If you are running a fashion label you will probably need a business loan or have to justify what you are spending your money on. No matter how brilliant your ideas, the people who control money are only swayed by arguments based on sound financial reasoning. Rates of return, accounting and interest rates are all ideas that can only be well understood using mathematics.</p>
<p>Mathematics is mandatory for financial literacy. It introduces ideas such as optimisation, understanding statistics and problem solving and forms a language that allows designers to talk to scientists, engineers and business people.</p>
<p>If you are going to study fashion in college, you will need to learn about fabrics, which are material science. No matter how advanced the school syllabus in textiles, by the time you get to college there will be new materials and technology that did not exist before you got there. If you learn chemistry and physics you will understand the underlying scientific principles on a deeper level, making new material science really easy in the future.</p>
<p>Learning chemistry in school introduces you to lab protocols, taking measurements and accurately recording experiments. These are the exact skills you will need when working with dyes and pigments in textiles. </p>
<p>Using dyes to change the colour of textiles is essentially carbon chemistry. To do this a designer must change the acidity or alkalinity of the fabric - known as the PH level. This allows the “chromophores,” which are the parts of the dye molecule that create colour, to embed into the fabric. The PH scale in chemistry is a logarithmic scale and this is one place where abstract mathematical ideas are actually used in practice.</p>
<h2>Maths and creativity</h2>
<p>Mathematics can also push the boundaries of creativity in fashion. Designer Dai Fujiwara collaborated with legendary 1982 <a href="https://www.britannica.com/topic/Fields-Medal">Fields Medal</a> winning mathematician William Thurston to create radically different garments inspired by geometry and topology. </p>
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<span class="caption">A 2011 creation by Dai Fujiwara.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Benoit Tessier/Reuters</span></span>
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<p>In his 1 32 5 collection Fujiwara collaborated with computer scientist Jun Mitani to create mathematical folding algorithms generating innovative clothing. My own PhD research explores <a href="http://newsroom.uts.edu.au/news/2016/08/disruptive-fashion?utm_source=disruptive_gk6&G3utm_medium=gk&utm_campaign=disruptive_aug16">the underlying geometry of how clothing is made</a> and has even been used to teach abstract mathematical concepts through making fashion garments. </p>
<p>For a socially minded designer, STEM skills are essential to understanding environmental sustainability. Fashion used to have seasons, but now with fast fashion companies such as Zara and H&M, new clothing is coming into stores in each week. Fast fashion companies are often criticised for being unsustainable and exploiting workers. </p>
<p>Sustainability in the fashion industry is an extremely complex issue. It requires an understanding of the underlying science, economic behaviour and business practises of the fashion industry and their environmental impact. </p>
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<p>The fashion industry is full of “Greenwash,” fake sustainable marketing which has no scientific basis. STEM skills allow you to navigate these complex issues and try to address them for yourself.</p>
<p>The future of fashion is uncharted territory, but STEM skills make a budding fashion designer smart and adaptable.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/63649/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Mark Liu receives funding for an Australian Postgraduate Award from the Australian Government Department of Education and Training. </span></em></p>The fashion industry attracts creative young minds. But to succeed as a designer in a time of rapid technological change, knowledge of maths and science is invaluable.Mark Liu, PhD Philosophy, Fashion and Textiles Designer, University of Technology SydneyLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/598882016-07-13T01:01:06Z2016-07-13T01:01:06ZCan technology help fashion clean up its act?<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/126630/original/image-20160614-22408-f9aduk.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">A dress by designer Iris van Herpen, who, with her runway designs, challenges common fashion norms and beliefs.</span> <span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/94329551@N07/8832556696">Zach Balbino/flickr</a>, <a class="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nd/4.0/">CC BY-ND</a></span></figcaption></figure><p>Chemical waste, mass production and consumerism are all byproducts of an industrialized global economy.</p>
<p>The fashion industry is no different. Technology has helped the industry meet growing demand by making production more efficient. But vast overproduction – propelled by fast fashion’s demands for new styles – has led to <a href="http://www.wsj.com/articles/fast-fashion-cast-offs-fuel-global-recycling-network-1466962488?cb=logged0.22650435318622408">a host of additional problems</a>: increased chemical waste during production, along with thousands of tons of waste from worn, discarded or donated clothes. </p>
<p>Clothing retail giant H&M has <a href="http://about.hm.com/en/About/sustainability/commitments/reduce-waste/garment-collecting.html">a global garment collection initiative</a> – receiving used clothes and offering discounts in exchange for donations – but there are signs that even clothing <a href="http://www.wsj.com/articles/fast-fashion-cast-offs-fuel-global-recycling-network-1466962488?cb=logged0.22650435318622408">recycling efforts cannot keep up with garment production</a>. And while many companies use biodegradable materials, the costs of recycling such a large volume may tip the balance back toward using cheaper, synthetic fabric alternatives that are bad for the environment. </p>
<p>Fashion designers, however, are now utilizing technology to create new, environmentally conscious clothing. Though generally relegated to the catwalk, these designs offer a glimpse of the future – and a critique of an industry that will soon be forced to address some of the problems created by mass production.</p>
<h2>The dirt on fashion</h2>
<p><a href="http://www.statisticbrain.com/fashion-industry-statistics/">Annual global fashion industry revenue</a> is a staggering US$1.2 trillion, with the U.S. apparel market the largest in the world. (Consuming about 28 percent of the global total, it has a market value of about $331 billion.) </p>
<p>Many companies now adhere to the unsustainable “fast fashion” model, where consumers can expect to find new clothes rolled out on the racks nearly every week instead of once a season. </p>
<p>But while technology has allowed companies to produce more garments more quickly and at less cost, fast fashion is now <a href="http://ecowatch.com/2015/08/17/fast-fashion-second-dirtiest-industry/">the second most wasteful industry in the world</a>, behind the oil industry. A single garment creates a large carbon footprint, the result of production that includes farming, harvesting, manufacturing, processing and shipping. Pesticides in cotton farming, toxic dyes in manufacturing and landfill waste of discarded clothing add to the environmental costs of a garment. </p>
<p>Some materials, like cotton, are recyclable, while other synthetic materials, like nylon and polyester, are not biodegradable. Even laundering these clothes can send <a href="http://ecowatch.com/2015/08/17/fast-fashion-second-dirtiest-industry/">thousands of tiny fibers and chemicals into the ocean</a>. </p>
<h2>Beauty with a purpose</h2>
<p>Thinking about the full life cycle of the garment and <a href="https://fashionunited.com/news/fashion/re-defining-sustainability-closing-the-loop-slow-fashion/2016051111283">closing wasteful loops</a> creates new opportunities for apparel and tech industries. Unfortunately, technology’s role in the fashion industry has mainly led to increased waste.</p>
<p>That’s starting to change. Designers such as Eileen Fisher, Stella McCartney and Ralph Lauren <a href="http://ecowatch.com/2015/08/17/fast-fashion-second-dirtiest-industry/3/">are attempting to reshape industry practices</a> by using organic textiles and reducing water and carbon waste.</p>
<p>Meanwhile, companies such as <a href="http://store.levi.com/waterless/">Levis</a> are involved in projects to address their <a href="http://www.fastcoexist.com/3059826/levis-made-the-first-ever-100-recycled-cotton-jeans">impact on the planet</a>. Levis now dissolves old clothes to make a new fiber that the company uses in its jeans – an alternative to water-intensive cotton production. </p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/129481/original/image-20160706-807-11eviia.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/129481/original/image-20160706-807-11eviia.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/129481/original/image-20160706-807-11eviia.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/129481/original/image-20160706-807-11eviia.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/129481/original/image-20160706-807-11eviia.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/129481/original/image-20160706-807-11eviia.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/129481/original/image-20160706-807-11eviia.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/129481/original/image-20160706-807-11eviia.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Pauline Van Dongen’s solar dress allows wearers to charge their cellphones.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Sanae Ferreira</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>We’re also now seeing the development of textiles called smart fabrics, which are clothes infused with technological elements that interact with the wearer. Many innovators of smart fabrics have garnered attention with prototypes such as <a href="http://www.washington.edu/news/2016/04/12/uw-undergraduate-team-wins-10000-lemelson-mit-student-prize-for-gloves-that-translate-sign-language/">gloves that translate</a> hand motions from American Sign Language (ASL) into audible speech, shirts <a href="http://fortune.com/2016/05/18/cutecircuit-sound-shirt/">that allow deaf wearers to experience music</a> through the use of lights and vibration, or dresses that allow wearers to charge their cellphones.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.statista.com/statistics/302526/smart-fabrics-market-revenue-worldwide/">Sales growth</a> of smart fabrics is projected to almost triple between 2012 and 2018 to $2 billion, while wearable technologies are expected to grow to $19 billion over the same period. </p>
<h2>Working toward a functional, stylish ideal</h2>
<p>While smart fabrics bridge intelligent design with access to new experiences or improved functionality, most of the products haven’t been very stylish.</p>
<p>But new collaborations in the fashion and technology spaces are starting to focus on the importance of style in functional design. </p>
<p>For example, former Silicon Valley executive Dolly Singh <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2016/05/01/fashion/brooklyn-wearables-revolution.html?_r=0">brought together a diverse team</a> – an astronaut, an orthopedic surgeon, a rocket scientist and a fashion scientist – to address a common problem: discomfort in women’s high heels. They ended up combining engineering advances, design principles and advanced polymers <a href="http://thesiscouture.com/#">to create a new flexible, strong and stylish stiletto</a>. (They don’t come cheaply: the shoes range in price from $300 to $900.) </p>
<p>These kinds of innovations aren’t being spurred just by large corporations and investors; universities are playing a big role, too. Harvard’s <a href="http://wyss.harvard.edu/viewpage/275/grid-exploration">Wyss Institute</a>, MIT Design Lab and The Cornell Nanoscale Science & Technology Facility (CNF) are just a few of the labs that are bringing together designers, scientists, media and technology experts to study soft robotics and wearable technologies. </p>
<p>Collaborations between design schools and large companies can also lead to advances in design, aesthetics and technology. For example, the Rhode Island School of Design has collaborated on research projects with sportswear companies to develop abstract concepts and ideas for future research directions. One proposed idea was knitting tubes for a system to carry fluids, within clothes, that can influence the wearer’s temperature or carry electric current. </p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/130052/original/image-20160711-9267-1uoou75.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/130052/original/image-20160711-9267-1uoou75.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/130052/original/image-20160711-9267-1uoou75.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/130052/original/image-20160711-9267-1uoou75.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/130052/original/image-20160711-9267-1uoou75.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/130052/original/image-20160711-9267-1uoou75.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/130052/original/image-20160711-9267-1uoou75.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">An example of tubular knitting from an industry collaboration with RISD. The tubes offer a system to carry fluids for temperature control or energy systems.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Suzanne Mancini</span>, <span class="license">Author provided</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<h2>A vision for the future</h2>
<p>Two recent exhibits have worked to further the conversation about the future of fashion and technology: the Museum of Fine Arts’ <a href="http://www.mfa.org/exhibitions/techstyle">#techstyle</a> (March 6 to July 10, 2016) and Metropolitan Museum of Art’s <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2016/manus-x-machina">Manus x Machine</a> (May 5 to August 15, 2016). </p>
<p>While the shows display many pieces produced exclusively for the runway, they offer a glimpse at how technology can be used to repurpose and reduce fashion waste.</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/129483/original/image-20160706-820-2hn4wu.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/129483/original/image-20160706-820-2hn4wu.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/129483/original/image-20160706-820-2hn4wu.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/129483/original/image-20160706-820-2hn4wu.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/129483/original/image-20160706-820-2hn4wu.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/129483/original/image-20160706-820-2hn4wu.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/129483/original/image-20160706-820-2hn4wu.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/129483/original/image-20160706-820-2hn4wu.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Bionic Yarn weaves denim clothing using recycled plastic bottles.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Sanae Ferreira</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>For example, #techstyle features a piece by the company Bionic Yarn, which weaves denim clothing using recycled bottles found in the ocean. Another work makes an even greater conceptual leap: Designer Iris van Herpen’s “Water Splash Dress” uses recycled PET plastic and acrylic spray, creating the design from a video capture of actual water splashes. </p>
<p>Some designers, such as van Herpen, may think of <a href="http://nymag.com/thecut/2016/04/designer-who-mixes-technology-with-couture.html">technology as “just a tool”</a> in their craft. But technology opens up a world of possibilities for designers to collaborate and innovate for individual and global needs.</p>
<p>At a roundtable discussion on Fashion and Technology at the CUNY Graduate Center, Amanda Parks of Manufacture NY noted how it’s important to find a “sweet spot” between craft and technology. She called Nike’s <a href="http://www.nike.com/us/en_us/c/innovation/flyknit">Flyknit</a> running shoe an example of a product that hits this “sweet spot.” The shoe is <a href="http://www.fashiontrendsetter.com/accessories_images/2013/Nike-Free-Flyknit-Women-00.jpg">knit to the shape of the foot</a>, wastes almost no material, has a superb fit and is offered at a marketable price point (between $130 and $150). </p>
<p>With consumers primed to expect ready-to-wear fashion, it’s important for designers to utilize technology to craft products with purpose, that are good for the environment but also aesthetically pleasing and affordable.</p>
<p>Only then will the fashion industry move toward a more sustainable and smarter future.</p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/126628/original/image-20160614-22380-lpvp1a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/126628/original/image-20160614-22380-lpvp1a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=429&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/126628/original/image-20160614-22380-lpvp1a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=429&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/126628/original/image-20160614-22380-lpvp1a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=429&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/126628/original/image-20160614-22380-lpvp1a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=539&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/126628/original/image-20160614-22380-lpvp1a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=539&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/126628/original/image-20160614-22380-lpvp1a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=539&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Nike Flyknit Women’s running shoe reflects a zero-waste, functional design.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="http://news.nike.com/news/nike-free-flyknit-provides-compression-fit-with-free-flexibility">Nike</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/59888/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Suzanne Mancini does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organization that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>Fast fashion is the second most wasteful industry on Earth. But with the creation of dresses that charge cellphones and clothes made from recycled bottles, we could be on the verge of a green fashion revolution.Suzanne Mancini, Senior Critic, RISD Faculty, Rhode Island School of DesignLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.