tag:theconversation.com,2011:/id/topics/the-good-earth-5657/articlesThe good earth – The Conversation2021-04-25T14:07:23Ztag:theconversation.com,2011:article/1591742021-04-25T14:07:23Z2021-04-25T14:07:23ZChinese American actresses Soo Yong and Anna May Wong: Contrasting struggles for recognition in Hollywood<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/396629/original/file-20210422-16-1copmxi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=2%2C26%2C944%2C646&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Soo Yong and William Boyd in a still from the film 'The Secret of the Wastelands' (1941).</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">(Paramount Pictures)</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>The recent Netflix series <em>Hollywood</em> creates a <a href="https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/film-tv/a32346961/who-is-anna-may-wong-hollywood-star/">make-believe 1948 ceremony in which the noted Chinese American actress Anna May Wong wins an Oscar</a>. In reality, an Oscar eluded Wong during her four-decade film career. </p>
<p>Wong, who was born in Los Angeles <a href="https://www.womenshistory.org/education-resources/biographies/anna-may-wong">in 1903</a>, was famously <a href="https://people.com/tv/anna-may-wong/">passed over for the lead role of O-lan</a> in the 1937 classic hit, <em>The Good Earth</em>. Instead, <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/film/2014/dec/30/luise-rainer-double-oscar-winner-dies-aged-104">Austrian-born white actress Luise Rainer</a> was cast — <a href="https://www.oscars.org/oscars/ceremonies/1938">and for her work, won her second Oscar</a> for best actress. Hollywood’s Motion Picture Production Code (known informally as “the Hays Code”) explicitly <a href="https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/hays-code-loving-hollywood-s-896342">forbade depiction of screen intimacy between people of different races</a>. Wong was reportedly <a href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/j.ctt1xcrwg">heart-broken about the decison</a>.</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/396596/original/file-20210422-16-1d9sc3a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="A woman in profile" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/396596/original/file-20210422-16-1d9sc3a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/396596/original/file-20210422-16-1d9sc3a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=776&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396596/original/file-20210422-16-1d9sc3a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=776&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396596/original/file-20210422-16-1d9sc3a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=776&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396596/original/file-20210422-16-1d9sc3a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=975&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396596/original/file-20210422-16-1d9sc3a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=975&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396596/original/file-20210422-16-1d9sc3a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=975&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
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<span class="caption">Anna May Wong, 1932 portrait by Carl Van Vechten.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">(Carl Van Vechten/Library of Congress/Wikimedia Commons)</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>The desire to posthumously grant Wong recognition as seen in the series <em>Hollywood</em> should also alert audiences to the significant contributions of the other actors of Asian descent who appeared in <em>The Good Earth</em>. One of those actors was Soo Yong. <a href="https://doi.org/10.1163/187656111X564315">Yong had campaigned for the lead role</a> but she was also passed over. Yong eventually accepted two supporting roles in the movie, one of the most influential Hollywood films on China.</p>
<p>Yong’s journey to Hollywood and the way her career contrasted Wong’s reveals much about Hollywood’s racist casting decisions and the racial barriers faced by Chinese American actresses. Yong’s career also reflects the dynamic and shifting development of <a href="https://books.google.ca/books/about/Arise_Africa_Roar_China.html?id=-YopEAAAQBAJ&source=kp_book_description&redir_esc=y">20th-century Chinese-American relationships</a>: When contrasted with Wong, Yong’s calculated path towards a “respectable woman” reveals much about how both American Hollywood and Chinese popular culture wanted to depict Chinese women. </p>
<h2>Alternative to familiar stereotypes</h2>
<p>Yong’s profile aligned with the concept of the <a href="https://www.ubcpress.ca/sporting-gender">Chinese New Woman</a> promoted <a href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/4317011?seq=1">by the Chinese Nationalist government</a> that emphasized education, chastity and patriotism.</p>
<p>Yong strove to present a dignified and educated Chinese womanhood on screen and stage, an alternative to the familiar <a href="https://scholars.wlu.ca/bridges_contemporary_connections/vol3/iss1/2/">binary stereotypes of the subservient China doll and the vicious dragon lady</a>. She showcased an aristocratic and intellectual style of sophistication and glamour, void of over-sexualization.</p>
<p>Hollywood filmmakers were entranced by her talents and assured by favourable Chinese attitudes toward her as China was a significant market. </p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="A bride stands by an ill woman in bed." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/396417/original/file-20210421-17-17w4jkt.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=0%2C633%2C3914%2C2405&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/396417/original/file-20210421-17-17w4jkt.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=468&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396417/original/file-20210421-17-17w4jkt.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=468&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396417/original/file-20210421-17-17w4jkt.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=468&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396417/original/file-20210421-17-17w4jkt.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=588&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396417/original/file-20210421-17-17w4jkt.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=588&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396417/original/file-20210421-17-17w4jkt.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=588&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Soo Yong, seen seated facing the bride, in a supporting role in the 1937 film ‘The Good Earth.’</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">(Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer)</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<h2>Circle of Chinese intellectuals</h2>
<p>Born in Hawaii to Chinese immigrant parents in about 1903, Yong was orphaned as a child, and largely raised by her sister, Harriet, who was later a force in Hawaiian politics. </p>
<p>After graduating from the University of Hawaii, Yong ventured to mainland United States in 1926 to earn her master’s degree at <a href="https://www.tc.columbia.edu/about/history/">Teachers College, at Columbia University</a>. She was one of 50 women of Chinese descent in American colleges at that time, and one of the very few in graduate programs, who became recognizable figures in China’s intellectual life. </p>
<p>Yong was a student of noted <a href="https://plato.stanford.edu/entries/dewey/">educator John Dewey</a>. She grew close to other students who also studied with him, including <a href="https://www.upenn.edu/pennpress/book/15890.html">Zhang Pengchun</a>, a distinguished dramatist and professor from Nankai University, <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/1990/02/07/obituaries/paul-chih-meng-90-headed-china-institute.html">and Chih Meng, the future director of the China Institute</a> in New York City.</p>
<p>Yong became involved in the transpacific modern drama movement initiated by Zhang and Meng. After starring in plays written by Zhang, she began an acting career with bit parts in Broadway productions. </p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/396606/original/file-20210422-15-yoothb.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/396606/original/file-20210422-15-yoothb.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/396606/original/file-20210422-15-yoothb.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=913&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396606/original/file-20210422-15-yoothb.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=913&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396606/original/file-20210422-15-yoothb.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=913&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396606/original/file-20210422-15-yoothb.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1147&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396606/original/file-20210422-15-yoothb.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1147&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396606/original/file-20210422-15-yoothb.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1147&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Soo Yong’s name was prominently mentioned in the poster advertising Mei Lanfang’s performance on Broadway, 1930.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">(Yunxiang Gao)</span>, <span class="license">Author provided</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<h2>Yong on Broadway and in Hollywood</h2>
<p>Yong’s big break came in 1930 when she was hired to interpret the performances of Mei Lanfang, the famous Chinese theatrical personality, sponsored by <a href="https://www.chinainstitute.org/about-us/mission-history/">the China Institute</a>. </p>
<p>Yong enrolled in a doctoral program at the University of Southern California between 1933 and 1936. She said her ambition was to be a great actress with a PhD. In the eyes of the public, her desire for advanced education helped to distinguish her from Chinese immigrants. It also positioned her as an equal to elite Chinese and American intellectuals.</p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="Still of man and woman as appearing in Chinese magazine." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/396652/original/file-20210422-24-h0jq6h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/396652/original/file-20210422-24-h0jq6h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=487&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396652/original/file-20210422-24-h0jq6h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=487&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396652/original/file-20210422-24-h0jq6h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=487&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396652/original/file-20210422-24-h0jq6h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=612&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396652/original/file-20210422-24-h0jq6h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=612&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396652/original/file-20210422-24-h0jq6h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=612&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Photo showing Soo Yong and Clark Gable in a still from the film ‘China Seas.’ Yong autographed it to ‘The Young Companion Pictorial,’ in November 1935, a popular magazine in the Republic of China.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">(Yunxiang Gao)</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Hollywood casting agents chose Soo Yong for visible roles in films produced by major studios, starring Hollywood icons like <a href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026205/">Clark Gable</a>, <a href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0025617/">Greta Garbo</a>, <a href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0027851/">Mae West</a>, <a href="https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0000078/?ref_=tt_cl_t1">Gary Cooper</a>, <a href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0044418/">John Wayne</a> and <a href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0050933/">Marlon Brando</a>. </p>
<p>Despite her generally limited screen time, Yong frequently occupied within the first 10 spots on billing — the list of names at the bottom of an official poster — which testified to her respectability, popularity and great negotiation skills. She worked up to the highest level of Hollywood stardom allowed for a non-white actress.</p>
<h2>Chinese ‘New Woman’</h2>
<figure class="align-left zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/396880/original/file-20210423-15-15aisdp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="Two women sitting outside." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/396880/original/file-20210423-15-15aisdp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/396880/original/file-20210423-15-15aisdp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=721&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396880/original/file-20210423-15-15aisdp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=721&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396880/original/file-20210423-15-15aisdp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=721&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396880/original/file-20210423-15-15aisdp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=906&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396880/original/file-20210423-15-15aisdp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=906&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/396880/original/file-20210423-15-15aisdp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=906&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Eleanor Roosevelt and Madame Chiang Kai-shek in February 1943 in Washington.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">(Library of Congress)</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>The highly influential 1943 visit to the United States by <a href="https://www.simonandschuster.com/books/The-Last-Empress/Hannah-Pakula/9781439148945">Madam Chiang Kai-shek,
the American-educated first lady of the Republic of China</a>, dominated the contentious process of representing Chinese womanhood. </p>
<p>Yong embodied Madam Chiang’s brand of glamour, defined by jewellery, high fashion, perfect English, advanced education, sophistication and a happy marriage. In 1939, <em>The Chinese Digest</em>, the leading English-language Chinese publication in the United States, said Yong belonged to “Madame Chiang’s school” of women.</p>
<p>In 1941, Yong married C.K. Huang (黄春谷), a businessman who lived in Winter Park, Fla., after changes in immigration law enabled her to marry a Chinese citizen without losing her U.S. citizenship. </p>
<p>With Huang, Yong ran the Jade Lantern, a successful Chinese novelty shop. Customers shopped there for a lifestyle associated with her glamour and were served by the star they recognized.</p>
<h2>White Hollywood smitten</h2>
<p>White Hollywood was smitten by Yong. She developed an educated, middle-class persona that contrasted with how Hollywood cast Wong. Unlike Wong, who often had to display bare skin and perform sexualized roles, Yong was always fully clothed and displayed sophisticated glamour in her roles. And unlike Wong, <a href="https://doi.org/10.1163/187656111X564315">Yong never played parts that involved physical abuse or death</a>. </p>
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Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/the-model-minority-myth-hides-the-racist-and-sexist-violence-experienced-by-asian-women-157667">The model minority myth hides the racist and sexist violence experienced by Asian women</a>
</strong>
</em>
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<p>Wong’s film persona, <a href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/j.ctt1xcrwg">created for her by racist Hollywood casting decisions, irritated China’s Nationalist government</a>. Yong’s screen roles presented a softer <a href="https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/159783/orientalism-by-edward-w-said/">orientalism</a> that allowed ethnic dignity and did not offend her Chinese American audience or her nationalist friends in China. </p>
<p>The Huangs visited China in 1948, recording two rare Cantonese operas while there (released on Folkways Records in 1960 and 1962). The Huangs lived in Winter Park until 1961, when they returned to Hawaii. That year, they were awarded the <a href="https://blogs.rollins.edu/libraryarchives/2020/07/06/soo-yong-%E6%9D%A8%E7%A7%80-ca-1903-1984-a-chinese-american-actress-and-cultural-interpreter/">Rollins College Decoration of Honor</a> for their community contributions. </p>
<p>After a series of <a href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0048316/">smaller roles in</a> 1950s Hollywood classics <a href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0050933/">including <em>Sayonara</em></a>, Yong made a cameo in the 1961 film <em><a href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0054885/">Flower Drum Song</a></em>, a Hollywood milestone with a largely Asian cast. Yong secured small parts in four episodes of <em>Hawaii Five-O</em> between 1971 and 1978, in which her husband also appeared. She also appeared in two episodes on <em>Magnum P.I.</em> in 1981 when she was 78. </p>
<p>Huang died in 1980; Yong passed away in 1984. The couple’s estate established scholarship funds at the University of Hawaii and at Rollins College.</p>
<p>Yong rejected western racist attitudes that associated being Chinese with ignorance and servitude and instead showed a cosmopolitan “Chinese woman at her best.” </p>
<p><em>This is an updated version of a story originally published on April 25. It clarifies the preferred order of names for Zhang Pengchun in the customary Chinese way.</em></p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/159174/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Gao Yunxiang does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>Soo Yong’s career, particularly when contrasted with Anna May Wong’s, shows how Hollywood and Chinese popular culture aimed to depict Chinese women amid shifting Chinese-American relationships.Gao Yunxiang, Professor, Department of History, Toronto Metropolitan UniversityLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/161742013-07-26T01:14:56Z2013-07-26T01:14:56ZThe good earth: Clare Hypercalcic Calcarosol and durum wheat<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27988/original/65qx6gtj-1374648641.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Durum wheat has Middle Eastern parents and Italian progeny, but grows best on Australian soil.</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Mikko Kuhna</span></span></figcaption></figure><p><em>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “<a href="https://theconversation.com/topics/the-good-earth">The good earth</a>”, soil scientist Robert Edis has profiled some of those soils and the flavours they bring. This is the final part.</em></p>
<p>Durum is the monarch of wheat. Unlike bread wheat - which is used for, well, bread (and sometimes cake) - durum wheat is used to make pasta, couscous, semolina, flat bread and of course burghul, which appears everywhere in Middle Eastern food from tabouleh to kibbeh. The ancestral home of durum wheat is the fertile crescent, including Syria.</p>
<p>Durum wheat is very hard, high in protein, and low in gluten, compared to bread wheat. Australia grows the most reliably high-quality durum wheat. It gets snapped up by Italian pasta makers (more than 50% of our exports of durum wheat are to Italy), as well as local ones like San Remo. </p>
<figure class="align-left ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27858/original/g3yy49nr-1374542804.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27858/original/g3yy49nr-1374542804.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=451&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27858/original/g3yy49nr-1374542804.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=451&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27858/original/g3yy49nr-1374542804.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=451&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27858/original/g3yy49nr-1374542804.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27858/original/g3yy49nr-1374542804.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27858/original/g3yy49nr-1374542804.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Durum wheat in a field in SA</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Waite Research Institute</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Good quality durum wheat is more valuable than bread wheat, but if the grain size, colour (yellowness), protein and vitreous hardness targets are not met the value plummets. Durum’s flavour and mouthfeel should be a little nutty and crunchy but not gritty. The right soil is needed to get that real Middle Eastern nuttiness.</p>
<p>One soil that fits the bill is the <a href="http://www.asris.csiro.au/mapping/hyperdocs/ACLEP/CA9.pdf">Hypercalcic Calcarosol</a> near Clare in South Australia (which also produces pretty good Riesling). This soil is quite similar to soils in Syria, such as around Aleppo, where durum wheat has grown for thousands of years. </p>
<figure class="align-right ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27857/original/pjpxmrmq-1374541526.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27857/original/pjpxmrmq-1374541526.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=1122&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27857/original/pjpxmrmq-1374541526.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=1122&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27857/original/pjpxmrmq-1374541526.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=1122&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27857/original/pjpxmrmq-1374541526.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1410&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27857/original/pjpxmrmq-1374541526.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1410&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27857/original/pjpxmrmq-1374541526.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1410&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Clare Calcarosol - good for durum wheat and riesling.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">ASRIS Australian soils and landscapes</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Calcarosols have calcium carbonate throughout the profile, and this keeps the soil pH above neutral. Durum wheat is unsuited to acidic soil - it’s sensitive to aluminium, and that can be released from the soil by acidity. The soil is very alkaline at depth and boron toxicity and salinity are likely to restrict plant growth deep in the subsoil.</p>
<p>“Hypercalcic” means the soil has a calcareous layer where the calcium carbonate is finely dispersed in the soil and doesn’t impede drainage. This is beneficial because durum wheat does not like wet feet. Enough rain falls on Clare that other crops, such as lentils, can be grown after harvest of wheat crops; this builds up soil nitrogen stores for use by the following wheat crop. Durum needs a great deal of nitrogen to make the magic 13.5% protein needed for silky pasta. </p>
<p>Durum wheat is quite new to Australia and ancient in Syria, so Australia has benefitted from Syrian expertise and germplasm. Many varieties of durum wheat grown in Australia have Syrian blood. The headquarters of the <a href="http://www.icarda.org/">International Center for Agricultural Research in the Dry Areas</a> (Australia is an important donor and collaborator) was based in Syria <a href="http://www.nature.com/nmiddleeast/2012/120916/full/nmiddleeast.2012.133.html?WT.mc_id%3DGPL_NatureMEast">before it had to evacuate</a> due to the war. Now Syria’s capacity to produce quality durum wheat is in tatters. There will, though, be a time for rebuilding, and it will be in Australia’s interests to support restoration of agricultural research and development capability in Syria. </p>
<p>So, enjoy elite pasta, couscous, and burghal, and drink a toast to Syria, the Clare Hypercalcic Calcarosol, and soils in general, perhaps with a glass of Clare riesling. After all, though soils are sometimes dirty and mucky, sticking to shoes and staining knees, mostly they’re just brilliant.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27990/original/2j9jj7dk-1374648859.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27990/original/2j9jj7dk-1374648859.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27990/original/2j9jj7dk-1374648859.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=412&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27990/original/2j9jj7dk-1374648859.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=412&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27990/original/2j9jj7dk-1374648859.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=412&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27990/original/2j9jj7dk-1374648859.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=518&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27990/original/2j9jj7dk-1374648859.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=518&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27990/original/2j9jj7dk-1374648859.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=518&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">It’s not Syria, but Clare in South Australia produces some of the world’s finest durum.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Google Maps</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/16174/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Robert Edis receives, received or hopes to receive funding from GRDC, Incitec Pivot, International Plant Nutrition Institute, MLA, ARC, ACIAR, ARC, ICARDA, Mansfield Shire, La Trobe University, Melbourne University</span></em></p>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “The good earth”, soil scientist Robert Edis has profiled some of those soils and the flavours…Robert Edis, Soil Scientist, The University of MelbourneLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/161732013-07-19T01:08:13Z2013-07-19T01:08:13ZThe good earth: Boneo Leptic Tenosol and parsnips<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27690/original/9wd4wbhx-1374128361.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Nutty, comforting, wintery parsnips: good luck growing them without a Tenosol.</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">di.wineanddine/Flickr</span></span></figcaption></figure><p><em>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “<a href="https://theconversation.com/topics/the-good-earth">The good earth</a>”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles some of those soils and the flavours they bring.</em></p>
<p>Sandy and low on nutrients, Tenosols are hardly Australia’s most attractive soils. And yet the Leptic Tenosol around Boneo on the Mornington Peninsula, about an hour from Melbourne, is one of the most valuable soils for commercial agriculture in Australia. </p>
<figure class="align-right ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27615/original/qsdy2tns-1374053770.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27615/original/qsdy2tns-1374053770.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=899&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27615/original/qsdy2tns-1374053770.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=899&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27615/original/qsdy2tns-1374053770.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=899&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27615/original/qsdy2tns-1374053770.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1129&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27615/original/qsdy2tns-1374053770.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1129&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27615/original/qsdy2tns-1374053770.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1129&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Sandy Tenosol near Newling, Victoria, Just on the other side of the bay from Boneo.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Victorian Resources Online</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>It is on this soil that market gardeners grow tonnes of premium vegetables for Melbourne and beyond. Cabbage, broccoli, celery and lettuces grow here, but this soil comes into its own for producing parsnips and carrots; particularly parsnips. </p>
<p><a href="http://www.news.com.au/entertainment/celebrity/don-burke-lashes-out-at-donna-hay-over-parsnips/story-e6frfmqi-1225762079203">Not everyone likes parsnips</a>. Some people may be sensitive to the high concentrations of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Psoralen">psoralens</a>. These chemicals are toxic, photoactive, mutagenic and photocarcinogenic, so perhaps it’s no wonder some people are put off. </p>
<p>Parsnips are tricky to get right. The taste and shape of the tap root is very dependant on the season, soil and management. Parsnips improve with leaving them in the earth for as long as possible; if harvested too early they can taste a bit like nail polish and lack that comforting, must-have nuttiness. To achieve a good sized tap root the soil must be very loose for the whole time, but provide sufficient resistance to affect biochemistry and thus flavour. The soil also has to be very well drained, preferably able to be wet and well aerated at the same time. This is what makes the Boneo Leptic Tenosol so special.</p>
<p>Tenosols are simply soils that are weakly developed. At Boneo, this means unconsolidated sand. The soil (yes sands are soil too!) has little natural fertility or capacity to store nutrients, and provides enough support to hold up the plant and to offer a little resistance to root extension. It drains like, well, sand. Growers can irrigate frequently without risking waterlogging. </p>
<figure class="align-left ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27617/original/6ffhv43h-1374054389.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27617/original/6ffhv43h-1374054389.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=358&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27617/original/6ffhv43h-1374054389.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=358&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27617/original/6ffhv43h-1374054389.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=358&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27617/original/6ffhv43h-1374054389.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=449&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27617/original/6ffhv43h-1374054389.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=449&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27617/original/6ffhv43h-1374054389.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=449&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Vegetable cropping near Boneo.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Victorian Resources Online</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Pretty much all nutrients must be applied during crop growth, typically with tonnes of chicken manure, backed up by fertilisers. It sounds pretty unnatural, but it does give control to the grower. A good grower can produce an excellent taproot with good reliability. The land at Boneo is quite flat, made up of sheets of windblown sand deposited around <a href="http://vro.dpi.vic.gov.au/dpi/vro/map_documents.nsf/pages/pp_mornington">1 to 2.5 million years ago</a>; that flatness makes it ideal for mechanised agriculture and bed forming. </p>
<p>Last year CSIRO released an excellent app called <a href="http://www.csiro.au/SoilMapp">SoilMapp</a>. If you use it to look at the area near Boneo (Lat -38.40, Long 144.90) it is quite clear that the incidence of vegetable growing is strongly coincidental with the Leptic Tenosol, being even more favoured than the adjacent <a href="https://theconversation.com/the-good-earth-thorpdale-red-ferrosol-and-chip-potatoes-13052">Red Ferrosol</a>! The climate here certainly helps: Mornington Peninsula provides excellent thermal conditions, moderated by the surrounding ocean and bay. </p>
<p>The best parsnips are produced when the tap root is ripening in a winter with some frosts. Mornington winters are currently only just cold enough for fabulous parsnips, so get into them now so you can tell your grandchildren about them.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27692/original/448z3h9v-1374128816.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27692/original/448z3h9v-1374128816.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27692/original/448z3h9v-1374128816.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=374&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27692/original/448z3h9v-1374128816.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=374&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27692/original/448z3h9v-1374128816.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=374&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27692/original/448z3h9v-1374128816.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=469&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27692/original/448z3h9v-1374128816.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=469&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27692/original/448z3h9v-1374128816.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=469&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Bowl over to Boneo for all the kids’ favourites: broccoli, cabbage and parsnips.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Google Maps</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/16173/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Robert Edis receives or has received funding from various Research and Development Corporation, IPNI, Incitec Pivot Ltd, various universities, ICARDA, none with any connection to this article.</span></em></p>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “The good earth”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles some of those soils and the flavours they…Robert Edis, Soil Scientist, The University of MelbourneLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/155832013-07-12T01:20:29Z2013-07-12T01:20:29ZThe good earth: Buderim Red Ferrosol and ginger<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27325/original/mscjfs6x-1373525361.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Love your gingerbread? Thank your Red Ferrosols.</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Flickr/sheilaz413</span></span></figcaption></figure><p><em>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “<a href="https://theconversation.com/topics/the-good-earth">The good earth</a>”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles some of those soils and the flavours they bring.</em></p>
<p>As well as being attractive, Red Ferrosol soils produce many of Australia’s iconic foodstuffs. </p>
<figure class="align-left ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27316/original/6ntq2dhc-1373522852.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27316/original/6ntq2dhc-1373522852.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=1206&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27316/original/6ntq2dhc-1373522852.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=1206&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27316/original/6ntq2dhc-1373522852.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=1206&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27316/original/6ntq2dhc-1373522852.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1515&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27316/original/6ntq2dhc-1373522852.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1515&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27316/original/6ntq2dhc-1373522852.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1515&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">A Red Ferrosol from Queensland has what it takes to produce premium ginger.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">CSIRO</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>One is ginger from Buderim on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast. Credited with curing everything from flatulence to nausea, ginger would be more a medicine than a food if it did not taste so delicious. The zing from ginger (it is after all in the genus <em>Zingiber</em>) comes from the volatile oils in the rhizome. </p>
<p>There is a strong regionality of ginger flavour and aroma, with the degree of pungency and lemony-ness controlled by the balance of the oils. This balance depends on the growing conditions – weather, management and, of course, soil.</p>
<p>In Australia the main growing areas for ginger are on the North Arm Volcanics near Buderim. This ginger has a very high oil content compared to that from most other countries, with a strong, fresh lemony flavour and aroma, with less pungency. (If you like pungent try ginger from Nigeria). </p>
<p>Rhizome shape, size, degree of branching and extent of rooting are directly affected by <a href="http://books.google.com.au/books/about/Spice_Crops.html?id=RqqTdAwXev4C&redir_esc=y">soil type and soil acidity</a>. Whilst ginger is very susceptible to waterlogging, periods of low water availability decrease yield and size of rhizomes and makes them more fibrous. So, to get fully flavoured, nicely shaped and big rhizomes you need beaut soil.</p>
<p>As for potatoes grown on the <a href="https://theconversation.com/the-good-earth-thorpdale-red-ferrosol-and-chip-potatoes-13052">Thorpdale Red Ferrosol</a>, the Buderim Red Ferrosol provides an ideal framework for growing ginger. </p>
<figure class="align-right ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27318/original/zv5gb3y2-1373522952.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27318/original/zv5gb3y2-1373522952.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27318/original/zv5gb3y2-1373522952.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27318/original/zv5gb3y2-1373522952.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27318/original/zv5gb3y2-1373522952.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27318/original/zv5gb3y2-1373522952.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27318/original/zv5gb3y2-1373522952.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">A field ready to go for ginger planting.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">realestate.com.au</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>This Ferrosol is deep, red, acidic and formed from volcanic parent material. It is much older than the Thorpdale Red Ferrosol though, with the North Arm Volcanics being oozed out around 230 million years ago. Therefore, with more time and weathering intensity, this soil has even less inherited fertility, and an even greater “hunger” for phosphorus. Given that the yield of ginger can be in excess of 150 t/ha of green rhizomes, and that ginger is an annual with very high nutrient demands early in the season, fertiliser requirements are high and efficiency of use is low. This subsequently leads to risks to water resources receiving runoff from these fields. The acidity of the soil also needs to be substantially neutralised to form quality rhizomes, with annual applications of lime required to maintain pH at around 6.5.</p>
<figure class="align-left ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27320/original/37fczz97-1373523033.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27320/original/37fczz97-1373523033.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=401&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27320/original/37fczz97-1373523033.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=401&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27320/original/37fczz97-1373523033.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=401&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27320/original/37fczz97-1373523033.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27320/original/37fczz97-1373523033.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27320/original/37fczz97-1373523033.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Healthy (left) and Pythium rot affected (right) ginger plants.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">abc</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>A major soil issue for ginger is soil-borne diseases, such as <a href="http://www.abc.net.au/news/2013-06-07/nrn-qld-ginger-recovery/4739848">Pythium soft rot</a>. Chemical control of this disease is largely ineffective, and so areas affected can be ruled out for ginger production for years. There has been some promising work on influencing soil biology to increase soil suppressiveness to key soil-borne pathogens, such as desribed by <a href="http://aciar.gov.au/publication/FR2012-15"> Mike Smith</a> and colleagues. The best approaches appear to be the application of composted chicken manure and sawdust, and moving towards minimum or zero tillage systems. Initially it was thought that the acidity of the soil directly provided some suppression of diseases of ginger, however the study demonstrated that the key is the microbial population that has evolved there rather than the acidity itself. </p>
<p>Confucius used ginger daily to maintain health and intellect, and given Kevin Rudd is from Queensland he is probably a user too. So make yourself smarter, fitter and more philosophical with ginger from the North Arm Volcanics and the Buderim Red Ferrosol. </p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27326/original/3ky9yf7b-1373525590.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27326/original/3ky9yf7b-1373525590.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/27326/original/3ky9yf7b-1373525590.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=343&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27326/original/3ky9yf7b-1373525590.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=343&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27326/original/3ky9yf7b-1373525590.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=343&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27326/original/3ky9yf7b-1373525590.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=431&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27326/original/3ky9yf7b-1373525590.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=431&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/27326/original/3ky9yf7b-1373525590.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=431&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Buderim, Queensland.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Google Maps</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/15583/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Robert Edis receives funding from GRDC, Incitec Pivot, International Plant Nutrition Institute, MLA, ARC, ACIAR, ARC, ICARDA, Mansfield Shire, La Trobe University, Melbourne University.</span></em></p>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “The good earth”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles some of those soils and the flavours they…Robert Edis, Soil Scientist, The University of MelbourneLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/155822013-07-05T01:11:35Z2013-07-05T01:11:35ZThe good earth: Kensington Pride mangoes and the Darwin lateritic Red Kandosol<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/26896/original/mpc2mshv-1372920563.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">A basket of tropical goodness.</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Flickr/maxful</span></span></figcaption></figure><p><em>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “<a href="https://theconversation.com/topics/the-good-earth">The good earth</a>”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles iconic soils and the flavours they bring.</em></p>
<figure class="align-right ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/26520/original/px2t6ffm-1372606789.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/26520/original/px2t6ffm-1372606789.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26520/original/px2t6ffm-1372606789.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26520/original/px2t6ffm-1372606789.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26520/original/px2t6ffm-1372606789.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26520/original/px2t6ffm-1372606789.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26520/original/px2t6ffm-1372606789.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">A lateritic Red Kandosol. This example is from India. The thin line of material in the profile is the laterite. Of course it can be much thicker.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Flickr/Studio Matahari Lutong</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>It’s mango season now in Pakistan and India, a time for yellow faces and sticky fingers. Mangoes are the national fruit of both, and when local mangoes start to run out at the end of July, it is hoped Australian mangoes will arrive soon after to meet some demand.</p>
<p>The earliest mangoes in Australia are Kensington Pride from the Darwin lateritic Red Kandosol starting in September.</p>
<p>The soils of the top end are pretty infertile, as <a href="https://theconversation.com/romancing-the-north-the-food-bowl-furphy-15469">David Adamson pointed out last week</a>, as did Bruce Davidson last century and several folk in between. But this is sol de rigueur for mangoes. Few soils that are not rock are lousier than lateritic Red Kandosols.</p>
<p>The evolution of mangoes is in the deeply weathered and depleted slopes of South Asia, many with a laterite layer. It’s not so much that they don’t like deep fertile soils, its just they go a bit wild, with irregular flowering and excessive growth leading to unreliable fruit set and reduced quality, particularly in Kensington Pride. Not to mention big and hard to manage trees. This is not a problem on lateritic Red Kandosols! </p>
<figure class="align-left ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/26522/original/7tmpwhg3-1372607029.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/26522/original/7tmpwhg3-1372607029.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=1100&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26522/original/7tmpwhg3-1372607029.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=1100&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26522/original/7tmpwhg3-1372607029.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=1100&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26522/original/7tmpwhg3-1372607029.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1382&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26522/original/7tmpwhg3-1372607029.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1382&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26522/original/7tmpwhg3-1372607029.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1382&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">A Red Kandosol from Victoria, without any laterite because its not in the tropics.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Victorian Resources Online</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>These soils are also acidic. Mangoes prefer slight acidity, and you should be able to taste the difference between fruit from these soils and those from alkaline soils in WA produced in Oct-Nov – though both are nice. </p>
<p>Laterite is simply a continuous cemented layer of iron and aluminium oxides, formed through accumulation of these elements during extreme tropical weathering. Really fascinating, but <a href="http://crcleme.org.au/Pubs/Monographs/regolith98/18-eggleton%26taylor.pdf">read more about that here</a>. </p>
<p>Kandosols have gravelly sandy to loamy surface soil, gradually changing to sandy clay or clay subsoils with really poor structure, low fertility and poor water holding capacity. The poor structure and laterite can lead to seasonal waterlogging, further taming the Kensington Pride tiger. </p>
<p>Fruit quality is also very dependent on the soil nutrient status, and balance of nutrients. Starting from such a low base makes Kandosols attractive, because it’s hard to correct excesses. Too little calcium is usually an issue in these soils for mangoes, both in terms of the absolute amount and amount relative to magnesium, and so stacks of corrective calcium needs to be added, and typically some boron.</p>
<p>Perhaps Mr Abbott and others wanting to exploit the Great North are thinking about mangoes and world peace, though readers of Vikram Seth’s “<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A_Suitable_Boy">A Suitable Boy</a>” would be wary of diabetes. What ever is the case, a Kensington Pride mango, from the Darwin lateritic Red Kandosol, is a harbinger of summer’s bounty. And as with so many things, the first taste lasts the longest.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/26886/original/j2tcd7sv-1372918879.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/26886/original/j2tcd7sv-1372918879.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/26886/original/j2tcd7sv-1372918879.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=320&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26886/original/j2tcd7sv-1372918879.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=320&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26886/original/j2tcd7sv-1372918879.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=320&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26886/original/j2tcd7sv-1372918879.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=403&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26886/original/j2tcd7sv-1372918879.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=403&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26886/original/j2tcd7sv-1372918879.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=403&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Darwin, where the soils are mean and the mangoes are sweet.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Google Maps</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/15582/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Robert Edis does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “The good earth”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles iconic soils and the flavours they bring…Robert Edis, Soil Scientist, The University of MelbourneLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/146762013-06-28T01:23:35Z2013-06-28T01:23:35ZThe good earth – King Island cheese and Currie Yellow Kurosol<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/26213/original/c2ckkvf8-1372223513.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Soil makes pasture, pasture makes milk, milk makes cheese.</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">lu_lu/Flickr</span></span></figcaption></figure><p><em>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “<a href="https://theconversation.com/topics/the-good-earth">The good earth</a>”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles some of those soils and the flavours they bring.</em></p>
<p>Milk is very strongly and immediately influenced by what the milk producer eats. Those who remember fresh fresh cows’ milk will testify to the seasonality of milk flavour, the way it changes with pasture composition. </p>
<p>Travelling abroad, as I am now, I find it easy enough to get good espresso; beans travel well and you can always purify water. What always disappoints is the milk. Milk quality, and therefore cheese quality, is unambiguously dependent on pasture quality. And guess what: pasture quality is dependent on soil.</p>
<figure class="align-right ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/26007/original/22pfgrvs-1371875638.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/26007/original/22pfgrvs-1371875638.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=927&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26007/original/22pfgrvs-1371875638.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=927&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26007/original/22pfgrvs-1371875638.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=927&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26007/original/22pfgrvs-1371875638.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1165&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26007/original/22pfgrvs-1371875638.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1165&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26007/original/22pfgrvs-1371875638.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1165&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Yellow Kurosols (this example is from NE Tasmania) provide the foundation for quality cheeses on King Island.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">soer.justice.tas.gov.au</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>The <a href="http://crcleme.org.au/RegLandEvol/KingIsland.PDF">geology of King Island</a>, central to the story of agriculture, is dominated by the very old (Precambrian, at more than 541 million years old) and the very young (less than around 10,000 years old). The old rocks, many of them igneous, are the parent material for the best pasture soils on the island – Yellow Kurosols.</p>
<p>The green parts of the island - you can take a look at them on Google Earth - correspond well to the distribution of these soils on Precambrian rocks. These soils contain more clay and organic matter for water and nutrient storage than the newer dunes.</p>
<p>Kurosols are made up of contrasting textures, with a fertile loam topsoil abrupty overlaying an acidic clay subsoil. The acidity creates problems in the subsoil, but it also helps give suitable soil structure, and therefore moderate drainage (compared to say <a href="https://theconversation.com/the-good-earth-jasmine-rice-and-leeton-red-sodosol-14674">Sodosols</a>). </p>
<p>The rainfall is around 900 mm here, so drainage and erosion are issues. Kurosols are not great soils, but they are much better than most soils that occur in this environment. The topsoil here is crumbly and well drained, with a natural capacity to build organic matter content. The subsoil is reasonably deep, with OK drainage, and it stores water well. </p>
<figure class="align-left ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/26008/original/vnj8dx9z-1371876070.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/26008/original/vnj8dx9z-1371876070.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=692&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26008/original/vnj8dx9z-1371876070.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=692&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26008/original/vnj8dx9z-1371876070.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=692&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26008/original/vnj8dx9z-1371876070.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=870&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26008/original/vnj8dx9z-1371876070.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=870&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26008/original/vnj8dx9z-1371876070.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=870&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">There is a strong correspondence between soil and geology on King Island. It’s all happening on the older rocks just East of Currie is where the action is.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Wikipedia</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>The yellow colour indicates prolonged dampness – it’s a bit wet for cropping. But pasture plants well adapted to acidic subsoil conditions (pH less than 5.3) thrive here. This Yellow Kurosol has allowed pastoralists to develop dairy farms and take advantage of the year-round rainfall and cool conditions to make premium cheeses.</p>
<p>There are of course losers in all this. Forest was cleared to make way for cows, and the loss of habitat has been profound, particularly of large, old, hollowed trees. With increased pasture, the population of <a href="http://www.dpiw.tas.gov.au/inter.nsf/Attachments/JAAR-8BJ7R8/$FILE/Implications%20of%20Native%20Wildlife%20Browsing%20on%20King%20Island%20Final%20Report%204%20August%202010.pdf">Bennett’s Wallaby on King Island</a> has boomed – in 2008, over 500,000 animals foraged on just 66,413 hectares of pasture. Farmers want that pasture for their cows, so the wallabies have been “controlled”. Alas, even the tender craft of making cheese is poisoned with brutality. </p>
<p>Cheese is a great integrator of Planet Earth, and everything has to be just right. The flavour and texture components are drawn from the hands of the cheese-maker and the micro-organisms they garden, the cattle and the grass they eat, the atmosphere and water these all share, and on King Island, a Yellow Kurosol. It’s a biome on a biscuit!</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/26214/original/p344wszm-1372223705.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/26214/original/p344wszm-1372223705.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/26214/original/p344wszm-1372223705.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=349&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26214/original/p344wszm-1372223705.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=349&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26214/original/p344wszm-1372223705.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=349&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26214/original/p344wszm-1372223705.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=438&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26214/original/p344wszm-1372223705.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=438&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/26214/original/p344wszm-1372223705.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=438&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">If it’s cheese you’re after, come to King Island.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Google Maps</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/14676/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Robert Edis receives funding from Australian Research and Development Cooporations, ARC, Incitec Pivot, IPNI, La Trobe University, ICARDA.</span></em></p>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “The good earth”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles some of those soils and the flavours they…Robert Edis, Soil Scientist, The University of MelbourneLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/146752013-06-21T01:02:38Z2013-06-21T01:02:38ZThe good earth: Green lentils and the Wimmera self-mulching Grey Vertosol<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/25919/original/xcr2bq7k-1371708199.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Glorious green lentils from a grim grey soil.</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Jørgen Schyberg</span></span></figcaption></figure><p><em>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “<a href="https://theconversation.com/topics/the-good-earth">The good earth</a>”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles iconic soils and the flavours they bring.</em></p>
<p><a href="http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2006/11/cheap-caviar-1/">Puy Lentils</a> are little edible emeralds; their growers call them the “caviar of vegetables”. In 1996 they became the <a href="http://www.lalentillevertedupuy.com">first vegetable</a> recognised as an “<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Appellation_d'origine_contr%C3%B4l%C3%A9e">appellation d'origine contrôlée</a>” (AOC) by France. In 2009 they obtained European PDO (Protected Designation of Origin). They are - without question - the most delicious variety of lentils. </p>
<figure class="align-right ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/25843/original/wvktbvy9-1371633976.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/25843/original/wvktbvy9-1371633976.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=890&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25843/original/wvktbvy9-1371633976.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=890&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25843/original/wvktbvy9-1371633976.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=890&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25843/original/wvktbvy9-1371633976.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1118&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25843/original/wvktbvy9-1371633976.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1118&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25843/original/wvktbvy9-1371633976.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1118&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Self mulching Grey Vertosol near Horsham: it’s an attractive soil, if you like grey.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Victorian Resources Online</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>In places where pulses are taken seriously I have spent many happy hours listening to debates about where the best lentils are grown and why; is it southern Europe (Spain v France), west Asia, the Middle East? Notwithstanding full respect and homage to the artisan cultivators of Le Puy, one cannot ignore the Wimmera, where the self-mulching Grey Vertosol soil steps up to the plate to produce Australia’s version of these premium green lentils.</p>
<p>Green lentils have only been grown for a few decades in Australia (compared to about 10,000 years in Mesopotamia). But production has taken off, particularly around Horsham, Victoria. </p>
<p>Like all legumes, lentils provide their own nitrogen and even leave some in the soil, thanks to symbiotic nitrogen fixation. Bacteria live in nodules of the roots of legumes. These bacteria are able to take nitrogen from the air and convert it into a form usable by both the bacteria and the plant. This reduces the amount of fertiliser needed, for both for the lentils, and for wheat or canola planted afterwards. That in turn reduces greenhouse gas emissions from nitrogen-based fertilisers. </p>
<p>Lentils also provide a “disease break” between wheat or canola crops by being incompatible to the same pathogens, allowing stubble of these crops to be retained to rot slowly, further aiding soil health. Oh, and just coincidentally, they can be pretty profitable.</p>
<figure class="align-left ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/25921/original/2yyt76k8-1371708533.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/25921/original/2yyt76k8-1371708533.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=454&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25921/original/2yyt76k8-1371708533.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=454&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25921/original/2yyt76k8-1371708533.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=454&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25921/original/2yyt76k8-1371708533.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=570&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25921/original/2yyt76k8-1371708533.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=570&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25921/original/2yyt76k8-1371708533.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=570&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Looks like a good spot for some green lentils.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Jo Morcom</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>But green lentils can also be fussy. Self-mulching Grey Vertosol - incidently Queensland’s state soil is a Vertosol - has allowed green lentil production to take off in the Wimerra of Victoria due to a few properties. It has a high clay content, and this provides controlled release of water over the longer season of green lentils need (compared to red lentils). </p>
<p>These are quite fertile soils, particularly in the topsoil, which leads to adequate supply of nutrients. Potassium and zinc are particularly important for green lentils. The soil pH is near neutral, which is favoured by the plant and essential for good quality texture, colour and flavour of grains. This pH is also needed so the bacteria in the roots that fix nitrogen can flourish. </p>
<p>These soils are also self-mulching, meaning that a granular layer is formed at the surface through wetting and drying. Self-mulching soils have well structured topsoils, providing an excellent environment for roots. Green lentil plants are much shorter than wheat and canola, and the pods grow throughout the plant including close to the ground. The soil surface of this Vertosol is flat enough to allow mechanical harvesting of the pods.</p>
<p>So for a nutritious food rich in protein, based on a real partnership between plant and soil: go green. </p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/25922/original/48hqxzfy-1371708671.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/25922/original/48hqxzfy-1371708671.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/25922/original/48hqxzfy-1371708671.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=437&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25922/original/48hqxzfy-1371708671.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=437&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25922/original/48hqxzfy-1371708671.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=437&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25922/original/48hqxzfy-1371708671.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=549&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25922/original/48hqxzfy-1371708671.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=549&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25922/original/48hqxzfy-1371708671.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=549&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">The Wimmera.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Google Maps</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/14675/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Robert Edis receives funding from ICARDA, ARC, IPNI, GRDC, Incitec Pivot, Mansfield Council.</span></em></p>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “The good earth”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles iconic soils and the flavours they bring…Robert Edis, Soil Scientist, The University of MelbourneLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/146742013-06-14T01:09:14Z2013-06-14T01:09:14ZThe good earth: Jasmine rice and Leeton Red Sodosol<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/25225/original/hyrs8w7q-1370583932.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Grown on water saving soils...</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">TXMagpie/Flickr</span></span></figcaption></figure><p><em>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “<a href="https://theconversation.com/topics/the-good-earth">The good earth</a>”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles some of those soils and the flavours they bring.</em></p>
<p>In the 1980s, it took around 3000 litres of water to grow one kilogram of rice in the Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area, NSW. Now it takes about a third of that. A big part of this reduction is thanks to the use of Sodosol soils. </p>
<p>Premium, fragrant Jasmine rice production around Leeton is made possible by flat topography, access to water, and, most importantly, Red Sodosols. </p>
<figure class="align-left ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/24998/original/tjtx8w25-1370322685.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/24998/original/tjtx8w25-1370322685.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=1031&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/24998/original/tjtx8w25-1370322685.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=1031&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/24998/original/tjtx8w25-1370322685.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=1031&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/24998/original/tjtx8w25-1370322685.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1295&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/24998/original/tjtx8w25-1370322685.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1295&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/24998/original/tjtx8w25-1370322685.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1295&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">An example of a Red Sodosol (though this one is from Boort)</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Victorian Resources Online</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>If <a href="https://theconversation.com/the-good-earth-thorpdale-red-ferrosol-and-chip-potatoes-13052">Ferrosols</a> are the Kylie Minogue of soil types, <a href="http://www.clw.csiro.au/aclep/asc_re_on_line/so/sodosols.htm">Sodosols</a> are the Eddie McGuire. They’re in loads of places, can be annoying from time to time, and aren’t that attractive. They are sometimes described as tractor-bogging, gumboot-sucking spew (Sodosols, not Eddie). </p>
<p>That doesn’t mean that Sodosols aren’t loved; the <a href="http://vro.dpi.vic.gov.au/dpi/vro/vrosite.nsf/pages/soil_vic">Mottled Brown Sodosol</a> was elected Victorian State Soil by popular vote. Mostly considered poor soils for agriculture due to their tendency to waterlog, set hard and erode, they make great rice paddies.</p>
<p>You might see a Sodosol while motoring through a cutting: they have nice brown topsoil plonked on top of massive red or yellow clay with hardly any transition. What sets Sodosols apart from other texture-contrast soils is the “sodic” nature of the subsoil. In a <a href="http://vro.dpi.vic.gov.au/dpi/vro/vrosite.nsf/pages/sodic_soils">sodic soil</a>, electrical charges and the balance between sodium and calcium mean clay particles are dispersed into water in the soil, breaking down the soil’s structure. When the soil dries it sets hard like a brick; it’s impermeable. </p>
<figure class="align-right ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/24996/original/3fdsgwtc-1370322028.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/24996/original/3fdsgwtc-1370322028.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=600&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/24996/original/3fdsgwtc-1370322028.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=600&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/24996/original/3fdsgwtc-1370322028.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=600&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/24996/original/3fdsgwtc-1370322028.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=754&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/24996/original/3fdsgwtc-1370322028.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=754&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/24996/original/3fdsgwtc-1370322028.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=754&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Most rice is still grown in inundated paddies, though now restricted to soils with low permeability, like Red Sodosols.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">mirrigation.com.au</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>This impermeability makes Sodosols problematic for almost everyone. But for Leeton rice growers these soils are great. The topsoils are quite fertile, but the subsoil is highly sodic. The sodic subsoil stops water leaking from the paddy while it’s flooded. It also stops the water table rising, which would otherwise cause salinity. The less clayey and sodic topsoil, compared to most rice paddy soils, ensures production of fully matured grains, jammed pack full of flavour, nutrition and aroma.</p>
<p>John Passioura from CSIRO recently outlined how farmers are <a href="http://theconversation.com/australias-farming-future-doing-more-with-less-water-14983">growing more wheat with less water</a>. The same is happening with rice, where much innovation - and even regulation - is directed at improving water use efficiency. In fact, in the Murrumbidgeee Irrigation Area, farmers <a href="Customer_Rules_RICEGROWING_Oct11.pdf">have to have</a> a sodic subsoil if they want to grow rice, both to conserve water and reduce salinity. </p>
<p>So, enjoy your guilt-free grains of sunshine and water, nurtured by the Leeton Red Sodosol.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/25195/original/2f65bzx2-1370569185.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/25195/original/2f65bzx2-1370569185.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/25195/original/2f65bzx2-1370569185.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=423&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25195/original/2f65bzx2-1370569185.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=423&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25195/original/2f65bzx2-1370569185.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=423&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25195/original/2f65bzx2-1370569185.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=531&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25195/original/2f65bzx2-1370569185.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=531&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/25195/original/2f65bzx2-1370569185.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=531&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Leeton, in the NSW Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Google Maps</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/14674/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Robert Edis receives funding from ARC, IPNI, Incitec Pivot, ICARDA, DAFF, GRDC, and is President of the Victorian branch of Soil Science Australia.</span></em></p>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “The good earth”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles some of those soils and the flavours they…Robert Edis, Soil Scientist, The University of MelbourneLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/130492013-06-07T01:01:35Z2013-06-07T01:01:35ZThe good earth: peaty Black Vertosol and asparagus<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22550/original/dy57xwjg-1366172507.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">The world's best asparagus, thanks to a peaty drained swamp.</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">avlxyz/flickr</span></span></figcaption></figure><p><em>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “<a href="https://theconversation.com/topics/the-good-earth">The good earth</a>”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles some of those soils and the flavours they bring.</em></p>
<p>The soil that grows the best asparagus in the world is the peaty Black Vertosol, in the Koo-Wee-Rup district 60km south-east of Melbourne. The most famous of these soils is the <a href="http://vro.dpi.vic.gov.au/dpi/vro/portregn.nsf/pages/port_soil_survey_cranbourne_dalmore_clay">Dalmore clay</a> – peaty phase. Many places renowned for their geo-culinary perfection are a happy mix of climate and soil factors. But in this case, it’s all about the soil. </p>
<figure class="align-right ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/21762/original/t7rsjwtm-1364281583.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/21762/original/t7rsjwtm-1364281583.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=302&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/21762/original/t7rsjwtm-1364281583.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=302&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/21762/original/t7rsjwtm-1364281583.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=302&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/21762/original/t7rsjwtm-1364281583.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=379&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/21762/original/t7rsjwtm-1364281583.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=379&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/21762/original/t7rsjwtm-1364281583.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=379&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Asparagus growing in the drained Koo-Wee-Rup swamp.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Victorian Resources Online</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Vertosols are those big black clayey soils - in this case more than 60% clay - that swell when wet and shrink and crack when drying out (they’re also known as reactive clays: one example is <a href="http://www.mindat.org/min-11119.html">smectite</a>). </p>
<p>The clays have a very high negative charge at their surfaces, where huge amounts of nutrients are held. When plant roots absorb nutrients from the water in the soil pores these nutrients are slowly released. Of all soil types, Vertosols have the highest capacity to store nutrients this way. </p>
<figure class="align-left ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/21767/original/42dbnwvc-1364283238.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/21767/original/42dbnwvc-1364283238.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=907&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/21767/original/42dbnwvc-1364283238.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=907&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/21767/original/42dbnwvc-1364283238.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=907&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/21767/original/42dbnwvc-1364283238.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1140&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/21767/original/42dbnwvc-1364283238.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1140&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/21767/original/42dbnwvc-1364283238.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1140&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Dalmore clay - peaty phase (peaty Black Vertosol)</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Victorian Resources Online</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Soils with high clay contents can become waterlogged, and then when dry they can set very hard. But this area of Koo-Wee-Rup was once known as the “Great Swamp”, and here the presence of the peat - left over from the swamp days - makes this soil well drained internally. When dry it remains soft and crumbly and plant roots can explore all the resources the soil has to offer. This soil is also self-mulching, a rare phenomenon that leads to the surface becoming loose and granular just through wetting and drying cycles. </p>
<p>All plants grow well in this soil and are full of flavour and nutrition. But with asparagus, very special magical things happen as the spear of the asparagus pushes through the soil to emerge at the surface for harvest. The absence of sand grains, the slipperiness of the fine clay particles (less than a thousandth of mm across) and the soft buoyancy from the peat and self-mulching mean the asparagus spear slides through the soil like a wet tongue through fairy floss. The resulting spear has the softest skin and most flavour of any, and is most prized by asparagus connoisseurs throughout the world. </p>
<p>This is a very young soil, the product of the richest part of a swamp system some 40,000 ha in area that was drained in the early 1900s. It won’t last forever though. The peat is slowly oxidising, and as it is lost the soil will become more prone to waterlogging and hardsetting, becoming suitable only for grazing or housing (or reverting to wetland). Get into it while you can!</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22547/original/78nd62pc-1366171976.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22547/original/78nd62pc-1366171976.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22547/original/78nd62pc-1366171976.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=401&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22547/original/78nd62pc-1366171976.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=401&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22547/original/78nd62pc-1366171976.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=401&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22547/original/78nd62pc-1366171976.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=504&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22547/original/78nd62pc-1366171976.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=504&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22547/original/78nd62pc-1366171976.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=504&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">The Koo-Wee-Rup region, home to the world’s best asparagus.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Google Maps</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/13049/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Robert Edis receives funding from GRDC, IPNI, ARC, SRDC, Incitec-Pivot</span></em></p>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “The good earth”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles some of those soils and the flavours they…Robert Edis, Soil Scientist, The University of MelbourneLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/130512013-05-31T00:59:40Z2013-05-31T00:59:40ZThe good earth: Coonawarra Red Dermosol and Cabernet Sauvignon<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22568/original/k67qdv5x-1366179294.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Delicious? Thank the red Dermosol.</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">TheRogue/Flickr</span></span></figcaption></figure><p><em>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “<a href="https://theconversation.com/topics/the-good-earth">The good earth</a>”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles some of those soils and the flavours they bring.</em></p>
<p>The most famous Australian <em>terroir</em> is that part of the Coonawarra region in south-eastern South Australia with “Terra Rossa” soil. </p>
<p>Cabernet Sauvignon vines growing here produce low yields of grapes that are highly concentrated in chemical compounds called <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flavonoid">flavonoids</a>. The flavonoids lead to elegantly intense blackcurrant flavours with mint, even choc-mint, characters in the subsequent wine. The real thrill of these grapes is best appreciated straight from the vine – lots of skin and seeds but blinding, jaw-zinging flavour like staring at the sun coming out of an eclipse. </p>
<figure class="align-left ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22069/original/ysqrfxg5-1365080374.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22069/original/ysqrfxg5-1365080374.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22069/original/ysqrfxg5-1365080374.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22069/original/ysqrfxg5-1365080374.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22069/original/ysqrfxg5-1365080374.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22069/original/ysqrfxg5-1365080374.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22069/original/ysqrfxg5-1365080374.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Coonawarra petrocalcic Dermosol.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">RE White</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Formally, this Terra Rossa is a petrocalcic red Dermosol. These are astonishingly beautiful soils in profile, bright red earth over the white parent material (limestone) below.</p>
<p>The depth of the soil is highly variable. During the periods between ice ages, the depth increased as wind-blown material, iron oxides (giving the bright rust red colours) and some organic matter piled up. According to Professor Robert White (author of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Vineyard-Soils-Robert-White/dp/0195311256">Understanding Vineyards Soils</a>), insoluble impurities like quartz and clay in the limestone accumulate as the limestone dissolves. </p>
<p>The most brightly coloured red Dermosol has developed on the top of a 2000ha narrow, slightly elevated ridge of <a href="http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/89145/calcrete">calcrete</a> capping. The capping is a secondary calcium carbonate on top of the less-dense limestone below. </p>
<figure class="align-right ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22563/original/tjf3tbc9-1366178549.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22563/original/tjf3tbc9-1366178549.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22563/original/tjf3tbc9-1366178549.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22563/original/tjf3tbc9-1366178549.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22563/original/tjf3tbc9-1366178549.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22563/original/tjf3tbc9-1366178549.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22563/original/tjf3tbc9-1366178549.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">This looks like the place for a vineyard.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Ken Tam</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>The calcrete curbs deep root growth and reduces access to water; though as Professor White observes, the roots of older vines do appear to get into the underlying limestone in much the same way as in the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint-%C3%89milion">St Emilion</a> and <a href="http://www.wineintro.com/types/cote.html">Cote d’Or</a> wine regions in France. This rate of supply is supposed to contribute to the concentration of flavour and distinctiveness of the wines. </p>
<p>The soil is calcium rich, which along with the iron oxides, leads to good drainage. The soil pH is neutral to slightly alkaline, maintained by the dissolving calcium carbonate. This restricts the availability of nutrients such as phosphorus, copper, zinc and manganese. </p>
<p>The biosynthesis of flavour chemicals by the vine is driven by genetic and environmental factors. The stresses and luxuries a plant encounters will influence the relative abundance of these chemicals, sometimes resulting in pleasurable combinations as seen here. How a specific suite of soil conditions influences the balance of grape qualities is poorly understood. However if you see a bright red soil on a white calcrete capping you could be on a winner (<a href="https://theconversation.com/developing-a-taste-for-sagrantino-climate-change-and-australias-wine-industry-4399">depending on the climate</a> of course).</p>
<p><em>Last week: <a href="https://theconversation.com/the-good-earth-thorpdale-red-ferrosol-and-chip-potatoes-13052">Thorpdale Red Ferrosol and chip potatoes</a>.</em></p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22562/original/dcj3p856-1366178089.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22562/original/dcj3p856-1366178089.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22562/original/dcj3p856-1366178089.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=311&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22562/original/dcj3p856-1366178089.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=311&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22562/original/dcj3p856-1366178089.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=311&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22562/original/dcj3p856-1366178089.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=391&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22562/original/dcj3p856-1366178089.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=391&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22562/original/dcj3p856-1366178089.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=391&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Head to South Australia for jaw-dropping Cabernet Sauvignon.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Google Maps</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/13051/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Robert Edis receives funding from IPNI, Incitec Pivot, GRDC, MLA, ACIAR, ARC, Mansfield Council</span></em></p>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “The good earth”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles some of those soils and the flavours they…Robert Edis, Soil Scientist, The University of MelbourneLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/130522013-05-24T01:12:57Z2013-05-24T01:12:57ZThe good earth: Thorpdale Red Ferrosol and chip potatoes<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22554/original/bc6qn24h-1366174548.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">You can't grow chips like that on a Vertosol.</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Lenka Reznicek</span></span></figcaption></figure><p><em>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “<a href="https://theconversation.com/topics/the-good-earth">The good earth</a>”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles some of those soils and the flavours they bring.</em></p>
<p>Given that soil types aren’t commonly top of mind for consumers, it’s a rare one indeed that features in commercial subterfuge. Yet that’s what happened recently when farmers were caught trying to boost prices by <a href="http://www.weeklytimesnow.com.au/article/2013/05/08/569314_latest-news.html">dusting their potatoes</a> with Red Ferrosol.</p>
<p>Why the ruse? Well, Red Ferrosol (once known as Krasnozem) happens to be a soil with a big reputation. Tasmania elected a Ferrosol as their state soil, such is their affection for this lovely earth, and one variety was a serious <a href="http://vro.dpi.vic.gov.au/dpi/vro/vrosite.nsf/pages/soil_vic_contenders_red_ferrosol">contender for state soil</a> in Victoria. </p>
<p>Ferrosols are old soils but still full of life. At Thorpdale the <a href="http://vro.dpi.vic.gov.au/dpi/vro/wgregn.nsf/pages/wg_soil_detailed_gp15">Ferrosol</a> has formed on early Tertiary basalt (lava flows about 60 million years ago) uplifted by ongoing local tectonic instability. Over millions of years the complex reactive minerals have dissolved and simpler clays and oxides of iron and aluminium formed.</p>
<figure class="align-right ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22209/original/qphw9dnj-1365471883.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22209/original/qphw9dnj-1365471883.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22209/original/qphw9dnj-1365471883.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22209/original/qphw9dnj-1365471883.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22209/original/qphw9dnj-1365471883.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22209/original/qphw9dnj-1365471883.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22209/original/qphw9dnj-1365471883.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Red Ferrosol makes a perfect pair with potatoes.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">ABC Rural</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Ferrosols are deep, deep red on red soils with red bits, and under a suitable climate are unparallelled for growing potatoes. In Thorpdale in West Gippsland, Victoria, potato growers produce top quality potatoes for making chips (French fries). These soils are used for growing potatoes in other cool areas, such as pockets of Northern Tasmania, and some treasured areas near Ballarat, but most frying potatoes come from around Thorpdale. Russet Burbank potatoes are good for frying because of their low moisture content (requiring well drained soils) and high starch content (requiring a long season and plenty of available water).</p>
<p>There are three main reasons why these soils are so good for growing potatoes. They are well structured and fairly resilient soils - potatoes require lots of cultivation, even harvesting is a cultivation action, and these soils can stand up to a lot of activity. The large amount of iron oxides (giving the red colour) help to stabilise the soil aggregates and maintain friability (or crumbliness) and, most importantly, drainage even in the face of such abuse (within reason!). </p>
<figure class="align-left zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22280/original/pcn2cbpg-1365548475.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22280/original/pcn2cbpg-1365548475.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22280/original/pcn2cbpg-1365548475.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=1042&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22280/original/pcn2cbpg-1365548475.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=1042&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22280/original/pcn2cbpg-1365548475.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=1042&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22280/original/pcn2cbpg-1365548475.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1309&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22280/original/pcn2cbpg-1365548475.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1309&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22280/original/pcn2cbpg-1365548475.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1309&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Red Ferrosol.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Mark Imhof</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>They have a clay to clay-loam texture, with good structure. This structure holds water in a way that makes it easy for plants to get at it. It also stores nutrients reasonably well.</p>
<p>Additionally, Ferrosols are quite acidic. This is normally a bad thing, but in the case of potatoes the acidity helps to suppress pests and diseases.</p>
<p>Of course there are a few problems. Dr Mark Imhof from Victoria’s Department of Environment and Primary Industries emphasises that if the soil gets compacted by machinery or tillage, particularly when wet, its structure will deteriorate and the soil will get too strong. Strong soil reduces growth of the plant and the tuber. </p>
<p>Iron oxides in an acid soil develop strong positive charge and this leads to a strong affinity for phosphorus, making it hard for crops to extract the phosphorus in the soil. To grow a good potato crop, around 100kg/ha of phosphorus may have to be applied to this Ferrosol. This is not only an operational cost, and a <a href="https://theconversation.com/time-for-policy-action-on-global-phosphorus-security-5594">loss of a valuable resource</a>, it is also a danger to phosphorus-sensitive water resources (watch out Gippsland Lakes!) when the soil is eroded and unused phosphorus washes away. The clearing of the original enormous Eucalyptus forests in this area has also accelerated land slippage.</p>
<p>Thorpdale’s picturesque country-side, pleasant climate and its proximity to Melbourne will likely put future pressure on potato farming from more “lifestyle” land uses (think: grapevines), so now’s the time to have another Thorpdale chip.</p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22556/original/ptf5bwpg-1366174929.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/22556/original/ptf5bwpg-1366174929.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=332&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22556/original/ptf5bwpg-1366174929.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=332&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22556/original/ptf5bwpg-1366174929.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=332&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22556/original/ptf5bwpg-1366174929.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=418&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22556/original/ptf5bwpg-1366174929.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=418&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/22556/original/ptf5bwpg-1366174929.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=418&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Thorpdale, Victoria: grows a great chip.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Google Maps</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/13052/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Robert Edis receives funding from ARC, ACIAR, Incitec Pivot, IPNI, Mansfield Council </span></em></p>Australia has some of the world’s most ancient soils, many of which grow delicious produce. In this series, “The good earth”, soil scientist Robert Edis profiles some of those soils and the flavours they…Robert Edis, Soil Scientist, The University of MelbourneLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.