tag:theconversation.com,2011:/us/topics/footwear-33490/articlesFootwear – The Conversation2023-09-10T10:13:38Ztag:theconversation.com,2011:article/2127122023-09-10T10:13:38Z2023-09-10T10:13:38ZAncient shoes: tracks on a South African beach offer oldest evidence yet of human footwear<p>When and where did our ancestors first fashion footwear? We cannot look to physical evidence of shoes for the answer, as the perishable materials from which they were made would no longer be evident. <a href="https://theconversation.com/my-job-is-full-of-fossilised-poop-but-theres-nothing-icky-about-ichnology-182906">Ichnology</a>, the study of fossil tracks and traces, can help to answer this unresolved question through a search for clear evidence of footprints made by humans who were shod – that is, wearing some kind of foot covering. </p>
<p>But this is no simple endeavour, as our research team from the Cape south coast ichnology project in South Africa recently reported. Over the past 15 years <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.quascirev.2019.07.039">we have identified</a> more than 350 vertebrate tracksites along the Cape coast. These include a number of tracks made by humans who were clearly walking or jogging barefoot, as evidenced by toe impressions. But we also noticed similar trackways, seemingly well preserved, that contained no toe impressions. Realising, too, that very little research has been done about when humans first fashioned footwear, we decided to investigate further.</p>
<p>To do so, we studied relevant research from various parts of the world, using our knowledge about milestones in human technological development such as when and where our ancestors had the technology to create <a href="https://doi.org/10.1006/jhev.2001.0515">bone tools</a> which could have been used for sewing. </p>
<p>We also considered the areas where ancient hominin tracks have been reported. This revealed that there are two prime places on the planet to look for footprint evidence of early shod hominins: western Europe and the Cape coast of South Africa. We followed up with a little crafting of our own to create the types of footwear that might have been worn. Most of the tracksites we have found are between about 70,000 years and 150,000 years in age, so that is the time period we focused on.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/10420940.2023.2249585?src=">Our findings</a>, recently published in the journal <em>Ichnos</em>, suggest that there are at least three tracksites on the Cape south coast that might have been made by shod humans (a fourth site unfortunately rapidly deteriorated in quality and slumped into the sea). The global record of sites attributed to shod trackmakers is sparse. Until now, only four sites older than 30,000 years have been <a href="https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-021-02127-z">postulated</a>, all from western Europe, including a <a href="https://doi.org/10.1073/pnas.1901789116">Neanderthal site</a>.</p>
<p>Though the evidence is not conclusive, we are excited about our discoveries. They support the notion of southern Africa being one region where human cognitive and practical ability developed a very long time ago.</p>
<h2>The study</h2>
<p>We considered the published studies on possible shod-human tracks from western Europe, and searched the Cape coast for similar sites. Today, the ancient dune surfaces our ancestors walked along are cemented and preserved as <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/S0012-8252(01)00054-X">aeolianites</a>. We have previously reported on the <a href="https://doi.org/10.17159/sajs.2020/8156">tracks of our barefoot <em>Homo sapiens</em> ancestors</a> along this coastline and now focused on three sites which appeared to be of hominin origin and were crisply outlined, but contained no evidence of toe impressions.</p>
<p>Next, we drew on our knowledge of sandals used by the indigenous San people on the sands of the Kalahari desert to give us ideas about what ancient footwear might have looked like. After studying museum specimens, depictions of footwear in the San rock art record and <a href="https://doi.org/10.1126/science.281.5373.72">the oldest</a> surviving <a href="https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0010984">examples</a> of footwear, it was time to do a little cobbling. </p>
<p>We crafted various types of footwear and used them to create trackways on the beaches and dunes of the Cape south coast; then we analysed them. </p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/graffiti-threatens-precious-evidence-of-ancient-life-on-south-africas-coast-157777">Graffiti threatens precious evidence of ancient life on South Africa's coast</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<p>From these experiments it became clear that an open, hard sole design, with tracks made on moist, moderately soft but nonetheless cohesive sand, best fitted the findings at the three fossil tracksites. </p>
<h2>Preservation and clarity</h2>
<p>Usually, to identify hominin tracks, the presence and alignment of toe impressions is a crucial factor. Clearly such features are unlikely to be present in the tracks of ancestral humans using footwear. We needed to ensure that the findings suggesting shod hominins were genuine rather than being due to poor preservation, or erosion, or that the tracks had simply been made in soft sand by barefoot humans. </p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/worlds-oldest-homo-sapiens-footprint-identified-on-south-africas-cape-south-coast-205310">World's oldest _Homo sapiens_ footprint identified on South Africa's Cape south coast</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<p>Crisp track margins therefore became an essential feature at our three sites. Tracks had to have an approximate hominin footprint outline. Strap attachment points, if they left marks in the tracks, formed a welcome bonus.</p>
<p>None of the three sites has been dated at this point, although nearby dated sites suggest that they range in age from around 70,000 years to more than 130,000 years old.</p>
<p>While our evidence is suggestive, we do not consider it conclusive as yet. We’re searching for further sites which ideally, in addition to displaying good preservation, would contain long trackways to allow for detailed analysis.</p>
<h2>Why make footwear?</h2>
<p>One obvious question stemming from this research is why our ancestors would have elected to create footwear, whereas up until that point they had survived barefoot. </p>
<p>Perhaps once they had developed the means to create complex clothing through bone tools, footwear might have been a logical addition. Anyone who has tried to forage on the Cape coast today knows how sharp some of the rocks are and how easy it is to suffer a laceration if not wearing shoes. In the Middle Stone Age, about 130,000 years ago, an infected laceration might well have been a death sentence.</p>
<p>Protection from extremes of heat and cold might also have been incentives, and the use of footwear might initially have been occasional or intermittent.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/212712/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Charles Helm does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>Trackway findings support the notion of southern Africa being one region where human cognitive and practical ability developed a very long time ago.Charles Helm, Research Associate, African Centre for Coastal Palaeoscience, Nelson Mandela UniversityLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/1943312023-01-03T22:54:28Z2023-01-03T22:54:28ZWho is and isn’t suited to barefoot running? And if I want to try, how do I start?<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/498602/original/file-20221202-22-kredno.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=0%2C85%2C4388%2C2276&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">
</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Shutterstock</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>You might have noticed a buzz on social media about barefoot running, with many proponents breathlessly describing it as the most natural way to run. </p>
<p>But not everyone is a fan. The claims made about going barefoot can range from, “It’s the best thing I’ve ever done” to “I tried it and now I’m in terrible pain.”</p>
<p>So what does the research say about how to drop your usual runners and take up barefoot running, and why it seems to work for some people and not for others?</p>
<p>Our new <a href="https://journals.lww.com/acsm-msse/Abstract/9900/Transitioning_to_Barefoot_Running_Using_a.188.aspx">paper</a>, published in <a href="https://www.acsm.org/education-resources/journals/medicine-science-in-sports-exercise">Medicine & Science in Sports & Exercise</a>, tested a new way of switching from traditional shoe to barefoot running, and investigated why some runners may not tolerate barefoot running. We identified two key characteristics of runners who failed to transition to barefoot running.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/498628/original/file-20221202-24-haemsi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="A man grips his barefoot while sitting." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/498628/original/file-20221202-24-haemsi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/498628/original/file-20221202-24-haemsi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=264&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/498628/original/file-20221202-24-haemsi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=264&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/498628/original/file-20221202-24-haemsi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=264&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/498628/original/file-20221202-24-haemsi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=332&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/498628/original/file-20221202-24-haemsi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=332&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/498628/original/file-20221202-24-haemsi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=332&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Barefoot running is just not for everyone.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Shutterstock</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/children-should-spend-more-time-barefoot-to-encourage-a-healthier-foot-structure-100289">Children should spend more time barefoot to encourage a healthier foot structure</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<h2>What we did and what we found</h2>
<p>We studied 76 runners who transitioned to barefoot running over 20 weeks – using a minimal running shoe as an intermediate phase between traditional shoe and barefoot running. </p>
<p>The runners ran in traditional running shoes for the first four weeks. For the next four weeks, they increased their time in minimal running shoes by no more than 20% of their total running volume each week. </p>
<p>After running full-time in minimal shoes for another four weeks, they then spent the next four weeks gradually increasing their time running barefoot by no more than 20% per week. </p>
<p>Finally, they ran barefoot for a further four weeks. </p>
<p>We also asked the runners to do some calf and foot strengthening and stretching, to assist the muscles in the move from traditional shoe to barefoot running.</p>
<p>Using this strategy, 70% of runners were able to successfully transition to barefoot running over 20 weeks.</p>
<p>Pain in the calf when running in minimal shoes and pain in the foot when running barefoot were the main reasons for not being able to switch to barefoot running. </p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/498633/original/file-20221202-22-plrjho.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="Two people run barefoot on a beach." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/498633/original/file-20221202-22-plrjho.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/498633/original/file-20221202-22-plrjho.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/498633/original/file-20221202-22-plrjho.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/498633/original/file-20221202-22-plrjho.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/498633/original/file-20221202-22-plrjho.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/498633/original/file-20221202-22-plrjho.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/498633/original/file-20221202-22-plrjho.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Barefoot running tends to increase stress in the tissues of the foot and calf.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.pexels.com/photo/an-elderly-man-and-a-woman-jogging-at-thebeach-8637985/">Photo by Kampus Production/Pexels</a>, <a class="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/">CC BY</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<h2>So why doesn’t barefoot running suit some people?</h2>
<p>We identified two features that were present in runners who failed to transition to barefoot running. </p>
<p>Contacting the ground first with the heel while running was one, and the other was very mobile feet (which means the arch is more flexible when the foot is bearing weight).</p>
<p>Why? It’s too early to say for sure, but we do know barefoot running tends to increase stress in the tissues of the foot and calf. </p>
<p>Our findings seem to indicate this tissue stress was not well tolerated in those who habitually contact the ground with their heels and/or have very mobile feet when they run barefoot or in minimal shoes.</p>
<p>This may result in pain and eventually injury. We also know <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.3113/FAI.2012.0262">from</a> <a href="https://bjsm.bmj.com/content/48/16/1257">other</a> <a href="https://bjsm.bmj.com/content/50/8/476">studies</a> that running barefoot or in minimal shoes will result in higher rates of foot injury (such as stress fractures of the bones of the foot) and pain in the shin and calf. Traditional shoes usually provide more support and cushioning.</p>
<p>It seems runners who habitually contact the ground with their heel while running find it difficult to switch to contacting the ground with more of their midfoot or forefoot, which is what barefoot running tends to promote. </p>
<p>Those with mobile feet may need their muscles to work harder to stiffen the foot when pushing the foot off the ground while running.</p>
<p>Perhaps a more gradual transition period during which the limit is 10% (not 20%) weekly increase of running in minimal shoes or barefoot spread over a longer period (such as 40 weeks) would enable those wishing to run barefoot to do so without pain or injury. </p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/498634/original/file-20221202-19-yz54vc.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="A person stretches their foot." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/498634/original/file-20221202-19-yz54vc.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/498634/original/file-20221202-19-yz54vc.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/498634/original/file-20221202-19-yz54vc.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/498634/original/file-20221202-19-yz54vc.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/498634/original/file-20221202-19-yz54vc.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/498634/original/file-20221202-19-yz54vc.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/498634/original/file-20221202-19-yz54vc.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">If you want to try barefoot running, transition gradually.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Shutterstock</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<h2>Top tips for successful barefoot running</h2>
<p>If you’re keen to try barefoot running, keep these tips in mind:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>transition gradually over at least 20 weeks. Take longer if needed</p></li>
<li><p>use a minimal shoe as an intermediary, if possible</p></li>
<li><p>limit any increase in running in minimal shoes or barefoot to no more than 20% of total running distance per week</p></li>
<li><p>use pain during and in the 24 hours after running as a guide – especially if you feel the level of severity is unacceptable</p></li>
<li><p>consult a sports and exercise health care professional (such as a physiotherapist or podiatrist) if you experience pain or require assistance in transitioning – especially if you have previous injuries</p></li>
<li><p>consult a qualified run coach to assist with your running program</p></li>
<li><p>when barefoot running, protect your feet by running in well-lit conditions so you can see obstacles, and avoid excessively hot, cold or sharp surfaces</p></li>
<li><p>mix it up – people who run in lots of different types of footwear report fewer injuries than those who only run in one type of shoe.</p></li>
</ul>
<p>It may also be that some runners are just not able to switch from their traditional running shoes to barefoot running. </p>
<p>Barefoot running may not be for everyone. It will not make you faster or reduce overall injury rate, and there is no evidence running barefoot burns more calories than running with shoes. </p>
<p>But if you’re thinking of giving barefoot running a go, transitioning gradually – using a minimal running shoe as an interim step – is more likely to result in a successful transition, and keep you running.</p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/eliud-kipchoge-broke-the-mens-marathon-record-by-30-seconds-how-close-is-the-official-sub-2-hour-barrier-now-191421">Eliud Kipchoge broke the men's marathon record by 30 seconds. How close is the official sub-2 hour barrier now?</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/194331/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Natalie Collins has received funding from the National Health and Medical Research Council, Medical Research Future Fund, and Arthritis Australia. New Balance provided all shoes used in this study, free of charge, through the New Balance Global Scientific Award. New Balance had no input into the design of the study or interpretation of the results.</span></em></p><p class="fine-print"><em><span>Bill Vicenzino has received funding from New Balance Global Scientific Award.</span></em></p><p class="fine-print"><em><span>Kathryn Mills has received in-kind support from the New Balance Global Scientific Award. She is the current chair of the International Footwear Biomechanics Group, which is a volunteer role. </span></em></p>Thinking of trying barefoot running? We investigated a new strategy to switch from traditional shoe to barefoot running, and why barefoot running may work for some runners but not others.Natalie Collins, Senior Lecturer in Physiotherapy, The University of QueenslandBill Vicenzino, Professor and Chair in Sports Physiotherapy, The University of QueenslandKathryn Mills, Senior Lecturer, Macquarie UniversityLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/1500682020-12-29T20:39:57Z2020-12-29T20:39:57ZFlip flop: the un-Australian history of the rubber thong<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/374067/original/file-20201210-20-ott2bj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=15%2C31%2C5160%2C3414&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">
</span> <span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://image.shutterstock.com/image-photo/nun-yang-600w-402016462.jpg">Shutterstock</a></span></figcaption></figure><p>The shoe known in Australia as a “thong” is one of the <a href="https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/the-timeline-flip-flops-2039012.html">oldest styles of footwear</a> in the world. </p>
<p>Worn with small variations across Egypt, Rome, Greece, sub-Saharan Africa, India, China, Korea, Japan and some Latin American cultures, the shoe was designed to protect the sole while keeping the top of the foot cool. </p>
<p>Australians have long embraced this practical but liberating shoe — but history shows we can’t really claim to it as our own.</p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/the-erotic-theatre-of-the-pool-edge-a-short-history-of-female-swimwear-127902">The erotic theatre of the pool edge: a short history of female swimwear</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<h2>Geishas, workers, soldiers</h2>
<p>Japan is often cited as the pivotal influence, perhaps because the culture features not only the thong’s closest ancestor (the flat-soled <a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/88982">zori</a>, traditionally made from straw) but also the chunky <a href="https://japanobjects.com/features/geta">geta sandal</a>, famously worn by geisha for centuries in an effort to keep trailing kimono hems out of the mud. </p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/374078/original/file-20201210-13-wqyy6a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="Antique Japanese artwork of umbrellas and traditional footwear." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/374078/original/file-20201210-13-wqyy6a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/374078/original/file-20201210-13-wqyy6a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=443&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374078/original/file-20201210-13-wqyy6a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=443&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374078/original/file-20201210-13-wqyy6a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=443&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374078/original/file-20201210-13-wqyy6a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=557&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374078/original/file-20201210-13-wqyy6a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=557&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374078/original/file-20201210-13-wqyy6a.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=557&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Umbrellas and Geta by Ryūryūkyo Shinsai, circa 1816.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:MET_DP138967.jpg">Wikimedia Commons/Metropolitan Museum of Art</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>In the late 19th century, Japan started to export aspects of its culture to diverse corners of the world. An early example was the <a href="https://hanahou.com/14.3/rubbah-soul">Hawaiian “slipper” or “slippah”</a>, a thong-like version of the zori with roots in the footwear of Japanese plantation worker immigrants in the 1880s. The slipper rapidly became part of the Hawaiian sartorial code (as in Australia, the shoe suited the relaxed outlook and beach lifestyle). </p>
<p>The popularity of the shoe may have spread after US soldiers, stationed in the East Pacific during the second world war, brought back souvenirs — <a href="https://www.google.com.au/books/edition/Iconic_Designs/qsPuBQAAQBAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1">but that claim is contested</a>. </p>
<p>During the 1940s the technology for mass-producing synthetic rubber was developed, and this undoubtedly increased dissemination and influence of the humble flip flop. However, it was not until around the same time Hawaii became the official 50th state of the USA in 1959 that thongs became a globally recognised symbol of leisure. </p>
<h2>Downunderfoot</h2>
<p>Despite the thongs’ strong identification with Australia, details of its exact arrival here are not easy to pin down. </p>
<p>From 1907 onwards, for example, advertisements described “Japanese sandals” with “<a href="http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article19472378">flexible wooden</a>” or jute soles, although the few illustrations that exist do not depict shoes with a thong fastening. </p>
<p>In 1924, Melbourne’s The Herald discussed <a href="http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article243756589">criticism levelled at Melburnians</a> for walking with a “flip-flop movement, bringing the back of the heel down too heavily on the ground, causing jarring to the body and fatigue”. </p>
<p>Heels were suggested as a remedy for women with this complaint. Nearly a century later, podiatrists still <a href="https://www.huffingtonpost.com.au/entry/are-flip-flops-bad-for-you_n_59566a31e4b0da2c73230df6?guccounter=1&guce_referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZ29vZ2xlLmNvbS8&guce_referrer_sig=AQAAANGP3-hXygaiqLDx_hXFosmE10CKU5euv95eEuziIfixnp5_ajoEnpWNXHJ3MsMblDd3UxaVaGFfbs5QDzAob0Jae_9aFEhY7U-q9nH4svbuwXimWGULRewUgPc72Jv9vaKT0Aqi756yabcKUHzfqm8GU_QaH4Tvp695twhkc842">recommend avoiding</a> thongs for long term wear. (These days, they’re <a href="https://www.huffpost.com/entry/hands-down-these-are-the-worst-shoes-for-your-feet_b_581bad9ee4b01022624114ba">not fans of heels either</a>.) </p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/372487/original/file-20201202-19-18rvgxm.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/372487/original/file-20201202-19-18rvgxm.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/372487/original/file-20201202-19-18rvgxm.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=522&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/372487/original/file-20201202-19-18rvgxm.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=522&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/372487/original/file-20201202-19-18rvgxm.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=522&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/372487/original/file-20201202-19-18rvgxm.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=655&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/372487/original/file-20201202-19-18rvgxm.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=655&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/372487/original/file-20201202-19-18rvgxm.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=655&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Thongs were standard beachwear by the 60s.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article46932284">Australian Women's Weekly</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>In 1946, department store David Jones promoted “Olympia”, a Greek-inspired thong sandal with additional ankle straps. But it was not until around 1957, when Kiwi businessmen Maurice Yock and John Cowie both claimed credit for what they termed the “<a href="https://www.stuff.co.nz/auckland/local-news/western-leader/160517/Origins-of-jandal-debated">jandal</a>” — a portmanteau of “Japanese” and “sandal” — that Australia’s connection with the flip flop became more established and, at the same time, questioned. </p>
<p>In 1959, Dunlop in Australia imported <a href="https://www.google.com.au/books/edition/Iconic_Designs/qsPuBQAAQBAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1">300,000 pairs of thongs</a> from Japan. They started producing them internally in 1960. </p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/374090/original/file-20201210-16-bmbctf.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="Thong in bin, foot in plaster cast." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/374090/original/file-20201210-16-bmbctf.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/374090/original/file-20201210-16-bmbctf.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=405&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374090/original/file-20201210-16-bmbctf.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=405&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374090/original/file-20201210-16-bmbctf.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=405&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374090/original/file-20201210-16-bmbctf.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=509&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374090/original/file-20201210-16-bmbctf.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=509&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374090/original/file-20201210-16-bmbctf.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=509&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">A Safety Council of Australia poster consigning thongs to the bin.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/133447">State Library of Victoria</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/take-a-plunge-into-the-memories-of-australias-favourite-swimming-pools-128928">Take a plunge into the memories of Australia's favourite swimming pools</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<p>As Australia’s tourism boomed during the 1950s and 60s, so too did its sartorial image, with <a href="https://maas.museum/inside-the-collection/2012/01/20/rubber-thong/">thongs taking centre stage</a> as the footwear of choice for an egalitarian, laid-back society. </p>
<p>So widespread did they become, in fact, that by the mid 1960s bans were being sought by state governments to avoid frequent injuries at the workplace — <a href="http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article107882024">especially construction sites</a>. </p>
<p>In the name of professionalism, in 1978 the Queensland government decreed that <a href="http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article110927967">schoolteachers not be permitted to wear thongs to work</a>. This year, they have been banned for wear at Australia Day citizenship ceremonies — a decision reflecting a wish for greater “<a href="https://www.perthnow.com.au/news/australia-day/thongs-banned-from-australia-day-citizenship-ceremonies-ng-b881442122z">significance and formality</a>” to be represented at official events. </p>
<p>But the rubbery love affair endured, perhaps shown most ardently when <a href="https://radioinfo.com.au/news/no-you-werent-hallucinating-when-you-saw-giant-thong-motorway-today">Kylie Minogue made her entrance</a> as part of the Sydney 2000 Olympics atop a giant rubber thong carried by lifeguards. </p>
<h2>Dressing up, dressing down</h2>
<p>Thong-related concerns have not been limited to Australia. </p>
<p><a href="https://www.nbcnews.com/id/wbna8670164">In 2005</a> members of an American college women’s lacrosse team wore them to the White House to meet President Bush. There followed a furor over whether this brazen act was disrespectful, a distraction from the women’s achievements or signalled a casual shift in attitudes to leaders (<a href="https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=4777262">and fashion</a>) in the years after the Clinton sex scandals. </p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/374088/original/file-20201210-21-11ko17x.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="Group of young women meet the US President Bush, some are wearing thongs with formal dresses." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/374088/original/file-20201210-21-11ko17x.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/374088/original/file-20201210-21-11ko17x.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=417&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374088/original/file-20201210-21-11ko17x.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=417&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374088/original/file-20201210-21-11ko17x.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=417&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374088/original/file-20201210-21-11ko17x.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=524&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374088/original/file-20201210-21-11ko17x.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=524&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374088/original/file-20201210-21-11ko17x.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=524&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">The Northwestern University lacrosse team (and their flip flops) go to Washington.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Northwestern_University_lacrosse_team_flip_flops.jpg">Wikimedia Commons</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Since the late 1990s it has been possible to buy more formal heeled versions. Although these were widely mocked as expensive aberrations of the style, they looked to making a <a href="https://www.thezoereport.com/p/kendall-jenners-flip-flops-will-convince-you-to-resurrect-the-throwback-trend-18183570">Kardashian-led comeback</a> in recent times. </p>
<p>Branded versions are also available, with couturiers like Hermès selling a very unassuming flip flop <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/shortcuts/2019/sep/03/pass-notes-hermes-flip-flops">for a cool A$600</a>. </p>
<p><div data-react-class="InstagramEmbed" data-react-props="{"url":"https://www.instagram.com/p/CBAxrE3n0Gg","accessToken":"127105130696839|b4b75090c9688d81dfd245afe6052f20"}"></div></p>
<p>There is a poignant irony in the fact that thongs are the most popular kind of shoe in developing countries, precisely because of their cheap manufacture (often made from recycled rubber tyres) and consequently, very low purchase cost. </p>
<p>This practice of <a href="https://garage.vice.com/en_us/article/xwmxgj/class-appropriation-in-fashion">appropriating “ordinary” or “working class” clothing</a> — transitioning it from the practical to the fashionable — is nothing new. We’ve seen it with <a href="https://theconversation.com/friday-essay-the-singlet-a-short-history-of-an-australian-icon-145545">singlets</a> and <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/dec/13/how-to-wear-boilersuits">boilersuits</a>. <a href="https://www.worldofclogs.com/clog-blog/the-origins-of-clogs/#:%7E:text=Carved%20wooden%20clogs%20originated%20in,footwear%20by%20the%2014th%20Century.&text=The%20clogs%20were%20then%20painted,depending%20on%20the%20local%20fashion.">Clogs</a> are another footwear example. </p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/374089/original/file-20201210-20-6bziw9.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="Thongs worn on a seaside pier." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/374089/original/file-20201210-20-6bziw9.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/374089/original/file-20201210-20-6bziw9.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374089/original/file-20201210-20-6bziw9.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374089/original/file-20201210-20-6bziw9.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374089/original/file-20201210-20-6bziw9.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374089/original/file-20201210-20-6bziw9.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/374089/original/file-20201210-20-6bziw9.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Australians take their thongs seriously. You can tell because they don’t call them ‘thozzas’.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://image.shutterstock.com/image-photo/low-section-woman-wearing-slippers-600w-141061453.jpg">Shutterstock</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Rather than a form of fashion whimsy, Australians take their thongs seriously. Even the naming of them — after the structural make-up of the shoe’s fastening rather than the onomatopoeic “flip flop” used by other countries — flies in the face of the Australian preference for <a href="https://theconversation.com/rona-iso-quazza-words-of-the-year-speak-to-our-australian-take-on-covid-150949">shortened diminutives and nicknames</a>. </p>
<p>That shows true commitment, but also that thongs are not really so dinky-di, after all. </p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/friday-essay-vizards-face-gloves-and-window-hoods-a-history-of-masks-in-western-fashion-143994">Friday essay: vizards, face gloves and window hoods – a history of masks in western fashion</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/150068/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Lydia Edwards does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>With protection underfoot and ventilation on top, the thong is the perfect summer shoe for Australian conditions. Pity it’s not really Australian.Lydia Edwards, Fashion historian, Edith Cowan UniversityLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/1465992020-09-23T14:23:29Z2020-09-23T14:23:29ZCurved shoe tips make it easier to move – but research suggests they may also weaken foot muscles<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/359567/original/file-20200923-19-19xew3s.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=0%2C0%2C5636%2C3387&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Comfortable shoes with a curved tip make it easier to move, but weaken foot muscles.</span> <span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/healthy-lifestyle-young-fitness-woman-running-585640775">lzf/ Shutterstock</a></span></figcaption></figure><p>Evolution dictates that the human body adapts to cope with stresses present in the environment. The removal of stress from our environment means we cease to use that adaption. This is why your muscles grow in response to stress at the gym but shrink when you spend too much time on the couch. Comfort is the opposite to stress – and, in many cases, it can be the source of many illnesses and health conditions. </p>
<p>A <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-020-71247-9">new study</a>, published in Scientific Reports, suggests the same might be true when it comes to the type of shoes we wear. The researchers found that our comfortable shoes (namely shoes that had a curved tip at the toe, like running shoes) make it easier for us to move – but the trade-off for this comfort is that we develop weaker muscles in our feet. This muscle weakness may lead to injuries, such as plantar fasciitis – a common condition that causes inflammation and pain around the heel and arch of your foot. </p>
<p>Shoes are necessary, as they shield us from stresses in our environment, such as exposure to random objects, such as twigs or glass, that may inflict cuts or bruises. They also keep our feet warm and dry. But humans didn’t always wear shoes. In fact, it was only about <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0305440305000932">30,000 years ago</a> that our ancestors discovered there may be some survival advantages in avoiding skin perforation from sharp objects or burns resulting from exposure to extreme temperatures. </p>
<p>So they invented minimalist foot coverings, primarily made of plants or animal skins. Although these coverings shielded us from dangerous exposures, they certainly weren’t designed for comfort and so the stress to our muscles, bones, joints and tendons remained largely the same.</p>
<p>A key factor in our evolved ability to walk and run is the ability of our toes to <a href="https://jeb.biologists.org/content/221/17/jeb174425">bend backwards</a> as we lift our bodies upwards and forwards. Our toes, which are shorter than our ape-like ancestors, help us <a href="https://jeb.biologists.org/content/212/5/713">use less energy</a> when walking and running. There is less muscle work required to stabilise and control the movement of smaller toes. </p>
<p>The researchers of this latest study have found that the upward curved toe part of our modern cushioned shoes holds our toes in a position which means <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-020-71247-9">they move less</a> during walking and running. Known as the toe spring, the front of our shoes help us to roll forward with less effort, removing much of the stress of the activity from the feet. The researchers suggest that this may mean the muscles in our feet and toes have to do less work to stiffen our arch and control our toes during movement.</p>
<p>To obtain these results, the researchers had 13 healthy adults (aged 19 to 33), who always wear shoes, walk in four different pairs of sandals in which the toe springs (the curved tip of the shoe) were set at 10, 20, 30 and 40 degree angles (keeping the toes increasingly bent backwards). They then measured the movement of the toe joints in each condition using markers placed on the foot and compared it to when the participants were walking barefoot. The total range of movement at the toes decreased with increasing toe spring angle and therefore, so did the total amount of work required at the joints. </p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="A pair of running shoes." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/359568/original/file-20200923-16-1j5wojy.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/359568/original/file-20200923-16-1j5wojy.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=328&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/359568/original/file-20200923-16-1j5wojy.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=328&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/359568/original/file-20200923-16-1j5wojy.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=328&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/359568/original/file-20200923-16-1j5wojy.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=412&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/359568/original/file-20200923-16-1j5wojy.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=412&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/359568/original/file-20200923-16-1j5wojy.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=412&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">‘Toe springs’ remove stress from the feet.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/dark-blue-sport-shoes-on-white-1051117976">Vacharapong W/ Shutterstock</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>The role of foot muscles is to support the arch and stabilise the toes. Modern shoe-wearing populations demonstrate <a href="https://journals.lww.com/acsm-msse/Fulltext/2019/01000/Walking_in_Minimalist_Shoes_Is_Effective_for.14.aspx">smaller and weaker foot muscles</a> and a <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-21916-7">higher prevalence of flat feet</a> compared to people who are habitually barefoot or wear minimalist shoes, which are designed to replicate being barefoot, and include less cushioning and reduced or no arch support. </p>
<p>It’s this increased comfort and reduced effort that causes muscular changes, and which may also link shoes with toe springs to <a href="https://bmjopensem.bmj.com/content/6/1/e000577">plantar fasciitis</a>. The plantar fascia is a long and broad elastic tissue that runs the length of the sole of your foot. It becomes injured from repetitive strain associated with constant deformation of the arch. </p>
<p>It’s thought that the decline in foot muscles which help to maintain arch stiffness is partly responsible for the overload of this structure. Plantar fasciitis is the <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30787648/">most common running injury</a> associated with the foot. Findings from one <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26130697/">study</a> suggest it is more common in people who run in shoes compared to those who run barefoot. Other research also suggests that <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-35980-6">running shoes</a> may contribute to <a href="https://bmjopensem.bmj.com/content/6/1/e000577.full">other common injuries</a>. </p>
<p>There is evidence emerging from <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/333674780_Barefoot_Running_As_A_Treatment_For_Plantar_Fasciitis_In_The_Runner_A_Case_Series">case studies</a> suggesting barefoot running on a grass can help to <a href="https://journals.humankinetics.com/view/journals/ijatt/22/5/article-p26.xml">relieve the symptoms of plantar fasciitis</a>. Research also shows people who spend most of their time barefoot or using minimalist foot coverings have <a href="https://linkinghub.elsevier.com/retrieve/pii/S0268003316300675">larger</a> and <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-21916-7">stronger</a> foot muscles. </p>
<p>Although, there is no definitive evidence that modern shoes cause plantar fasciitis, it is worthy of further investigation given the mounting evidence pointing in that direction. </p>
<p>Going barefoot or wearing minimalist shoes can help people to build stronger and healthier foot muscles, as they promote the foot’s natural movement. But if you do ditch your comfortable shoes, it’s important to remember to gradually increase time spent walking in this way. It may also be wise to reduce comfort in other ways, such as moving more and sitting less. This will help to condition your whole body in way that is more suited for movement.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/146599/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Peter Francis receives research funding from Vivobarefoot.</span></em></p>Plantar fasciitis is a common injury.Peter Francis, Lecturer in Sport, Exercise and Rehabilitation Science, Leeds Beckett UniversityLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/753062017-05-05T01:53:37Z2017-05-05T01:53:37ZBeware the hype – springy soles won’t make you run much faster<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/166241/original/file-20170421-12645-18gej98.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Springy soles, stiffer shoes, lightweight materials. When does shoe design give some runners an unfair advantage?</span> <span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.shutterstock.com/download/confirm/544254466?src=ouwhewYFWf9JXeqj-kg3ig-1-45&size=medium_jpg">from www.shutterstock.com</a></span></figcaption></figure><p>Most runners believe a good pair of running shoes is worth the investment. But advances in running shoe technology have <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2017/03/08/sports/nikes-vivid-shoes-and-the-gray-area-of-performance-enhancement.html?_r=0">sparked debate</a> about whether shoes help you run faster.</p>
<p>Can they really allow marathon runners to break the <a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2Fs40279-017-0708-0">elusive two-hour barrier</a>, a challenge set to take place in Italy <a href="http://www.runnersworld.com/2-hour-marathon/how-to-watch-saturdays-sub-2-marathon-attempt">this weekend</a>? Or can newer shoes help you improve your personal best? </p>
<p>If they do, can we class these shoes as “performance enhancing” technologies that give runners an unfair advantage?</p>
<h2>Light shoes, better performance</h2>
<p>The weight of your running shoes can have a <a href="https://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s40279-014-0283-6">significant impact</a> on running performance. As shoes get heavier, muscles use more energy to move your feet, causing you to fatigue earlier, reducing your running performance.</p>
<p>Advances in materials technology have allowed running shoes to get lighter and lighter. Premium running shoes weigh on average 250 to 340 grams each, while the controversial <a href="http://news.nike.com/news/nike-zoom-vaporfly-elite">Nike Zoom Vaporfly Elite</a> tips the scales at just 184 grams.</p>
<p>If shoe weight is so important, why not <a href="https://theconversation.com/mondays-medical-myth-run-barefoot-to-prevent-injuries-7901">run barefoot</a>? Running barefoot requires energy to be absorbed by the muscles of the legs and feet when the foot hits the ground. Shoe cushioning can alleviate some of that. However, adding cushioning also increases shoe weight. So, there is a trade-off between the benefit of cushioning and the detrimental effects of added weight.</p>
<p>A <a href="http://journals.lww.com/acsm-msse/pages/articleviewer.aspx?year=2014&issue=02000&article=00015&type=abstract">recent study</a> found running in shoes each weighing 211 grams resulted in the same energy consumed for a given running distance (called <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Running_economy">running economy</a>) as running barefoot. And running barefoot on a treadmill, that provides the same cushioning as shoes (without adding weight to the feet), produced a small (~1.6%) improvement in running economy. </p>
<p>So the ideal would be to provide enough cushioning with as little weight as possible for the best running performance.</p>
<h2>Springy shoes, the jury’s out</h2>
<p>Reducing muscular effort at impact through shoe cushioning can be beneficial. But traditional running shoes lose energy with every step (converted mainly to heat). So, this energy must be replaced, through muscular contraction, to propel the runner into the next step and prevent a drop in speed.</p>
<p>In fact, cushioned shoes <a href="http://rsif.royalsocietypublishing.org/content/13/119/20160174">increase activation</a> of foot and leg muscles during push-off, compared to barefoot running. So the benefit of cushioning during impact may be offset by the increase in muscular effort needed to push off.</p>
<p>What if we could get back the energy lost at impact? Recent developments in running shoe design have focused on developing lightweight cushioning materials that act like springs to store energy from foot impact and return it to help power push off. In theory, this could reduce the muscular effort required to both absorb impact and power push-off and potentially <a href="http://jap.physiology.org/content/92/2/469">improve running economy</a>. </p>
<p>But there are complications we must consider before “springing” to a conclusion.</p>
<p>Springs only return energy they absorb when the shoe hits the ground. Springs cannot generate the <em>extra</em> energy needed to run uphill or accelerate. So muscles must still do this extra work and we do not yet know how a spring influences their ability to do this. This may potentially affect how efficiently you run uphill, downhill, accelerate or slow down.</p>
<h2>Stiff shoes help, but not too stiff</h2>
<p>The way the foot moves is also important. Our toe joints naturally bend when we push off, which dissipates some of the energy added by calf muscle contraction.</p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/165190/original/image-20170413-25898-145hwo3.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/165190/original/image-20170413-25898-145hwo3.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=600&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/165190/original/image-20170413-25898-145hwo3.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=600&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/165190/original/image-20170413-25898-145hwo3.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=600&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/165190/original/image-20170413-25898-145hwo3.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=754&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/165190/original/image-20170413-25898-145hwo3.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=754&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/165190/original/image-20170413-25898-145hwo3.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=754&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">High speed x-ray of running foot during push-off, when the toes bend and absorb energy. A hypothetical carbon insole is shown, which should theoretically reduce how much the toes bend and therefore reduce energy lost.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Author provided, with Mike Rainbow, Susan De'Andrea and Nicolai Konow.</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Reducing the amount the toes bend by making shoes stiffer can reduce the amount of energy lost. Stiffer soled shoes <a href="http://journals.lww.com/acsm-msse/pages/articleviewer.aspx?year=2006&issue=03000&article=00023&type=abstract">can improve running economy</a>, but only if the bending stiffness is <a href="http://www.jbiomech.com/article/S0021-9290(17)30015-5/abstract">optimised</a> for the specific athlete.</p>
<p>Too stiff and the calf muscles have to work too hard to produce the required forces to rotate the ankle; too soft and the benefit becomes trivial. </p>
<p>So it is not surprising shoes <a href="http://www.runningshoesguru.com/2017/03/nike-zoom-vaporfly-elite-the-shoe-of-breaking2-you-cant-buy/">Nike is preparing</a> for running marathons in under two hours have carbon fibre insoles where the bending stiffness is “tuned” for each runner.</p>
<p>The optimal stiffness of a shoe sole also varies depending on factors like the runner’s weight, leg length and strength. But a bigger design problem is that the optimal bending stiffness also varies with constantly changing factors.</p>
<p>Running at different speeds means we must change how we activate our muscles. But a simple spring, such as the <a href="https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/blade-runners-do-high-tech-prostheses-give-runners-an-unfair-advantage/">carbon fibre blade</a>, cannot change its stiffness for different speeds. </p>
<p>Even if we could tune shoe stiffness as we ran, this wouldn’t help with the added effort required to run uphill or accelerate.</p>
<h2>Are shoes ‘performance enhancing’ devices?</h2>
<p>Advances in shoe technology have the potential to improve running economy. At most, it is estimated this might make a difference of <a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2Fs40279-017-0708-0">up to 2% in running economy</a> when running on a flat course, in ideal conditions.</p>
<p>For professional runners, we don’t think the latest improvements in design provides an “unfair” advantage because the shoes do not give runners extra energy; they only help preserve energy our muscles generate and are likely to require precise conditions to be effective.</p>
<p>While recreational runners may get a small performance benefit from lighter, better cushioned or slightly springy shoes, they would be better off increasing their fitness, and making sure their next shoes are comfortable and fit to reduce the chance of injury.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/75306/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Glen Lichtwark has received research funding from Asics Oceania to conduct footwear and running related research. He receives funding from the Australian Research Council (ARC), Cerebral Palsy Alliance and Cerebral Palsy International Research Foundation. He currently holds an ARC Linkage project in collaboration with the Australian Sports Commission. He is a council member with the International Society of Biomechanics</span></em></p><p class="fine-print"><em><span>Dominic Farris receives funding from the Australian Research Council (ARC) including a current ARC Linkage Project in collaboration with the Australian Sports Commission. He has also applied for ARC funding in collaboration with Asics Oceania to research foot and footwear biomechanics. He is a member of the International Society of Biomechanics. </span></em></p><p class="fine-print"><em><span>Luke A Kelly has received funding from Asics Oceania to conduct footwear and running related research. He receives funding from the Australian Research Council (ARC) and the National Health & Medical Research Council of Australia. He is a member of the scientific committee for Sports Medicine Australia.</span></em></p>Running shoes with springs in the soles have been touted as the next big thing in shoe design. But they won’t turn a weekend warrior into an Olympian.Glen Lichtwark, A/Prof in Exercise and Sport Science, The University of QueenslandDominic Farris, Research fellow, The University of QueenslandLuke A Kelly, Research Fellow, The University of QueenslandLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/684982016-11-22T01:51:50Z2016-11-22T01:51:50ZWill we soon be growing our own vegan leather at home?<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146865/original/image-20161121-4547-459c7s.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">A floral wreath made from vegan leather designed by Sofia Moreno-Marcos and York Hon John Liang in 2014.</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">QUT media</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>Conventional leather is one of fashion’s most ubiquitous materials – but it is fraught with ethical and environmental issues. We have been growing vegan leather from kombucha tea since 2014 – and the results are promising.</p>
<figure class="align-left zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146149/original/image-20161116-31142-19agznj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146149/original/image-20161116-31142-19agznj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146149/original/image-20161116-31142-19agznj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=902&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146149/original/image-20161116-31142-19agznj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=902&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146149/original/image-20161116-31142-19agznj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=902&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146149/original/image-20161116-31142-19agznj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1133&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146149/original/image-20161116-31142-19agznj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1133&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146149/original/image-20161116-31142-19agznj.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1133&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">A jar of kombucha tea.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">QUT media</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Kombucha is a ferment made by adding a mixed symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast, (known as SCOBY) to sweetened tea. The bacteria acquire nutrients from the yeast, and grow a protective mass of cellulose monofibres, called a pellicle.</p>
<p>The pellicle (also called the mother) floats on the surface of the liquid, and will take the shape of its container. After a few weeks, when it has grown to a thickness of about 10mm, it can be harvested, washed (by hand or machine), oiled and air dried. </p>
<p>The material which results is a flexible, leathery sheet that can be cut, stitched, glued or woven. The pellicle dyes readily while still wet, and takes the shape of whatever supports it as it dries. Complex shapes can be formed by cutting the sheet into strips, and layering them over a form. As they dry, the wet strips fuse into a continuous sheet.</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146859/original/image-20161121-4564-1n45g6b.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146859/original/image-20161121-4564-1n45g6b.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146859/original/image-20161121-4564-1n45g6b.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=399&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146859/original/image-20161121-4564-1n45g6b.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=399&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146859/original/image-20161121-4564-1n45g6b.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=399&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146859/original/image-20161121-4564-1n45g6b.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=502&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146859/original/image-20161121-4564-1n45g6b.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=502&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146859/original/image-20161121-4564-1n45g6b.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=502&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">The wet kombucha.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">QUT media</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>The technology of growing and using kombucha cellulose as vegan leather has been explored over the past few years through a collaboration between the Fashion department, Queensland University of Technology and scientists from The Edge, State Library of Queensland. They have trialled methods for preparation, treatment and manufacture of garments, shoes, jewellery and bags.</p>
<p>Just like animal based leathers, our leather-like items such as shoes and bags require reinforcing and finishing to increase durability. Shoe styles vary from casual slip-ons to more conceptual designs with handmade wooden heels and soles.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146862/original/image-20161121-4531-r09a09.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146862/original/image-20161121-4531-r09a09.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146862/original/image-20161121-4531-r09a09.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=357&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146862/original/image-20161121-4531-r09a09.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=357&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146862/original/image-20161121-4531-r09a09.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=357&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146862/original/image-20161121-4531-r09a09.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=448&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146862/original/image-20161121-4531-r09a09.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=448&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146862/original/image-20161121-4531-r09a09.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=448&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Kombucha shoe design, Chinoiserie, by Alex Parker-Wilkin, Maritha Appel and Emma Tothill, 2015.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Alice Payne</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>We have experimented with waxing the vegan leather to increase water resistance, laminating it to increase overall strength and wearability, and painting it with acrylics to dramatically change its appearance and improve longevity. </p>
<p>As a naturally sustainable material, kombucha leather has many advantages. Unlike the patternmaking process for traditional leather, <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/15/fashion/15waste.html">which typically wastes 15% to 20% in the cutting</a> due to garment pattern shapes, kombucha leather can be grown with zero waste, in tubs shaped as garment pattern pieces.</p>
<h2>Can it work on a large scale?</h2>
<p>But can kombucha be commercialized at a scale to be a viable vegan alternative to leather? There are two main barriers to overcome: the sweet but pungent aroma (familiar to any home brewer) and water absorption. </p>
<p>Like animal-based tanned leathers, kombucha leather is not waterproof. Rubbing in natural essential oils or beeswax as a sealant can address both scent and water resistance, although traces of the smell will remain.</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146868/original/image-20161121-4560-583d8j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146868/original/image-20161121-4560-583d8j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146868/original/image-20161121-4560-583d8j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=399&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146868/original/image-20161121-4560-583d8j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=399&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146868/original/image-20161121-4560-583d8j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=399&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146868/original/image-20161121-4560-583d8j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=502&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146868/original/image-20161121-4560-583d8j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=502&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146868/original/image-20161121-4560-583d8j.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=502&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Kombucha growing.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">QUT media</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>These simple treatments make the material showerproof, but like leather, more work is required to make it truly impervious. Without a sealant, the kombucha could become sticky if worn in the rain. Full water resistance can be achieved if using acrylic or oil based sealers, but then the material is no longer safely biodegradable.</p>
<p>However, commercialization in the mass-market sense is only one avenue to explore.
Like many other potentially disruptive technologies, production of kombucha is decentralised, democratised and personal. It gives people the means to make their own leather products on a small-scale.</p>
<p>Knowledge could be shared and grown across wide networks using available media, as parallel communities of tinkerers and makers connect. Free and open exchange of knowledge is a hallmark of these communities. Our project is only one of many such projects mushrooming globally – from trailblazer <a href="http://www.biofabricate.co/">Suzanne Lee</a> with her bio-couture jackets, to <a href="http://www.kombuchacouture.com/">Sacha Laurin</a> with her runway creations in California, to the <a href="http://scobytec.tumblr.com/">ScobyTec</a> start-up in Germany with prototype biker jackets incorporating wearable technology.</p>
<figure class="align-left zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146866/original/image-20161121-4535-1oyqxn4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146866/original/image-20161121-4535-1oyqxn4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/146866/original/image-20161121-4535-1oyqxn4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=806&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146866/original/image-20161121-4535-1oyqxn4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=806&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146866/original/image-20161121-4535-1oyqxn4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=806&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146866/original/image-20161121-4535-1oyqxn4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1013&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146866/original/image-20161121-4535-1oyqxn4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1013&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/146866/original/image-20161121-4535-1oyqxn4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1013&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">The Earthwalker shoe by Paige Philogene, Thomas Rogers and Max Donker.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Alice Payne</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Looking to the future, kombucha cellulose may play a role as a mass-market alternative to leather. From the beginning of our project, sustainability and waste minimisation have been a priority. So treatments using artificial agents have been largely avoided. </p>
<p>The environmental ills of clothing production (waste generation, chemical toxicity, energy intensity) are rightly receiving increasing attention, and the search for sustainable materials is ramping up.</p>
<p>The world’s largest apparel brands are developing innovations in circular production methods, in which materials can be closed loop recycled, formed from pre-or post-consumer waste, or safely biodegraded at end-of-life – see <a href="http://www.ecouterre.com/puma-unveils-incycle-line-of-cradle-to-cradle-certified-apparel-footwear/puma-incycle-cradle-to-cradle-1/">PUMA’s cradle to cradle sneakers</a> or <a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com.au/entry/nike-recycled-shoes_us_5733436fe4b0bc9cb048b398">Nike’s utilization of waste</a>.</p>
<p>In addition, developing biotextiles has become fashionable, with novel biodegradable materials developed from waste pineapple leaf fibres (<a href="http://www.ananas-anam.com/pinatex/">Piñatex™</a>) and <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/sustainable-fashion-blog/2015/feb/17/grow-compost-wedding-dress-homegrown-fashion">fungi</a>, and <a href="https://tedxinnovations.ted.com/2015/09/14/spotlight-tedx-talk-the-new-fashion-clothes-colored-by-algae/">textile dyes from algae</a> garnering “likes” and shares on social media. </p>
<p>For now, kombucha growing provides local, individual makers with sustainable materials – and allows them to tap into the knowledge of a networked global community. This suggests a parallel fashion future in which makers grow their own garments, sharing the SCOBY locally, but ideas and instructions globally.</p>
<p><a href="http://edgeqld.org.au/kombucha/">Download your instructions from here</a> and try growing your own today.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/68498/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>The authors do not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and have disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>Conventional leather is fraught with ethical and environmental issues. But leather grown from fermented kombucha tea offers consumers a glimpse of a DIY, sustainable future.Alice Payne, Lecturer in Fashion, Queensland University of Technology, Queensland University of TechnologyDean Brough, Senior Fashion Studio Lecturer, Queensland University of TechnologyPeter Musk, Science Catalyst at The Edge, State Library of QueenslandLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.