tag:theconversation.com,2011:/us/topics/sneakers-38685/articlesSneakers – The Conversation2024-03-07T13:03:44Ztag:theconversation.com,2011:article/2240092024-03-07T13:03:44Z2024-03-07T13:03:44ZFrom fast fashion to excessive earrings, these trends might be harmful to your health<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/579487/original/file-20240304-18-67z9tp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=211%2C130%2C2425%2C1666&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Jennifer Lopez is a fan of the statement earring, but will her lobes forgive her?</span> <span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/los-angeles-may-10-jennifer-lopez-2303119289">Kathy Hutchins/Shutterstock</a></span></figcaption></figure><p>The perilous nature of some fashion items have a long history, from the potentially <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0966636221000199">hazardous heights of stilettoes</a> to the damaging <a href="https://www.rcseng.ac.uk/library-and-publications/library/blog/effects-of-the-corset/">constrictions imposed by the corset</a>. But health-harming trends aren’t a thing of the past. </p>
<p>Fast fashion, the making and selling of cheap clothes with short life-spans at mass volumes, has become a notorious modern-day phenomenon – so much so that in 2023, the <a href="https://www.europarl.europa.eu/news/en/press-room/20230424IPR82040/ending-fast-fashion-tougher-rules-to-fight-excessive-production-and-consumption">European Union</a> attempted to crack down on the “overproduction and overconsumption of clothes and footwear” to <a href="https://www.lse.ac.uk/granthaminstitute/news/remodelling-fast-fashion-understanding-the-need-to-accelerate-sustainability-in-the-fashion-industry-and-how-the-uk-can-respond/">make clothing more sustainable</a> and <a href="https://www.intechopen.com/chapters/85937">reduce worker exploitation</a>.</p>
<p>Fast fashion might be cheap but its environmental costs are dear. The detrimental <a href="https://www.unep.org/news-and-stories/story/environmental-costs-fast-fashion">ecological effects</a> of the consumer appetite for trend-driven disposable clothing – and the consequential impacts on <a href="https://www.discovermagazine.com/environment/how-fast-fashion-harms-the-environment-and-peoples-health">human health</a> – are well known. But <a href="https://repository.usfca.edu/capstone/1624/">toxic clothing</a> is a comparatively under-reported danger of consumers’ continuing love affair with fast fashion. </p>
<p>Affordable, on-trend clothing is often made from synthetic materials that can <a href="https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-3-642-03827-3_40">irritate the skin</a>. But <a href="https://www.openaccessgovernment.org/article/toxic-textiles-potential-health-risks-associated-with-toxic-chemicals-in-clothing/171082/">throwaway fashion</a> garments can also contain <a href="https://www.biologicaldiversity.org/programs/population_and_sustainability/pdfs/Unravelling-Harms-of-Fast-Fashion-Full-Report-2023-02.pdf">toxic chemicals</a> including <a href="https://www.cdc.gov/biomonitoring/PFAS_FactSheet.html#:%7E:text=Print-,Per%2D%20and%20Polyfluorinated%20Substances%20(PFAS),in%20a%20variety%20of%20products.">PFAS</a> (synthetic chemicals used widely in consumer products from non-stick baking tins to clothes), <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7002841/">azo dyes</a>, <a href="https://www.cdc.gov/biomonitoring/Phthalates_FactSheet.html#:%7E:text=Phthalates%20are%20a%20group%20of,%2C%20shampoos%2C%20hair%20sprays">phthalates</a> and <a href="https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/formaldehyde/default.html#:%7E:text=Formaldehyde%20(CH%E2%82%82O)%20is%20a%20colorless,antiseptics%2C%20medicines%2C%20and%20cosmetics.">formaldehyde</a>. </p>
<p>Approximately <a href="https://www.cbsnews.com/news/pfas-in-clothing-household-items-consumer-products-forever-chemicals/">8,000 synthetic chemicals</a> are used in the fast fashion manufacturing process, with residues <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2023/jul/02/fashion-chemicals-pfas-bpa-toxic">staying on the garments that we purchase</a>. Alden Wicker’s 2023 book, <a href="https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/705645/to-dye-for-by-alden-wicker/">To Dye For</a>, reveals the unregulated use of <a href="https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm201719/cmselect/cmenvaud/1805/1805.pdf">potentially harmful chemicals</a> and the impacts these can have on our health. <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Mohamed-Hassaan-2/publication/317006721_Health_and_Environmental_Impacts_of_Dyes_Mini_Review/links/5a032afaa6fdcc6b7c9d09d9/Health-and-Environmental-Impacts-of-Dyes-Mini-Review.pdf">Azo dyes</a>, for example, which are <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0273230017301812">restricted in the EU</a>, <a href="https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-981-99-3901-5_3">can be absorbed</a> causing a <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27635691/">range of reported</a> health issues. </p>
<p>And there are other, perhaps more surprising, potential dangers lurking in your wardrobe too.</p>
<h2>Trainers and sneakers</h2>
<p>Trainers have become the most popular shoe style of the <a href="https://journal.transformativeworks.org/index.php/twc/article/download/1991/2871?inline=1">21st-century</a>, transcending fashion boundaries of gender, race and age. The <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1740144519300853">trend for athleisure</a> – buoyed by brand collaborations with hip-hop and pop stars such as <a href="https://www.teenvogue.com/story/adidas-ivy-park-ivy-noir-collection">Beyoncé</a>, <a href="https://www.rollingstone.com/product-recommendations/lifestyle/rihanna-fenty-x-puma-the-creeper-phatty-1234905319/">Rihanna</a> and the <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2023/10/27/business/kanye-west-adidas-yeezy.html">pre-scandal Kanye West’s</a> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2023/feb/15/yeezy-sneakers-adidas-kanye-west-ye">ultra-successful Adidas Yeezy</a> line – has increased consumer demand for footwear that’s both <a href="https://www.forbes.com/sites/katehardcastle/2022/11/29/haute-comfort-consumers-choose-comfort-over-style-says-new-research/?sh=2bdb6feb20c4">comfortable</a> and has <a href="https://theconversation.com/the-history-of-sneakers-from-commodity-to-cultural-icon-127268">cult status</a>. </p>
<p>This is a trend that shows no sign of going out of fashion: according to predictions, the global sneaker industry will be worth <a href="https://leaders.com/news/business/inside-the-growing-sneaker-resale-market/">$100 billion by 2026</a>. But how bad can it be to value comfort as well as style? </p>
<p>For example, wearing trainers too much can lead to <a href="https://www.sioux-shop.co.uk/cms/keeping-your-feet-healthy/can-wearing-trainers-too-much-damage-your-feet/#:%7E:text=Therefore%2C%20wearing%20trainers%20continually%20can,not%20need%20such%20extreme%20cushioning.">poor foot posture and the widening of feet</a>, a condition that’s impossible to reverse. The trend for platform trainers isn’t much better: this style can be a painful <a href="https://edit.sundayriley.com/are-platform-sneakers-bad-for-your-feet/">strain on the feet and gait</a>. And sock sneakers – trainers that look like thick, usually colorful socks with rubber soles attached – is the style <a href="https://www.whowhatwear.com/worst-sneakers-for-feet">most likely to lead</a> to a sprained ankle.</p>
<p>The best bet is to opt for athletic trainers that are designed to offer a supportive fit. </p>
<h2>Waist trainers</h2>
<p>Waist trainers, brought into vogue this century by <a href="https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/article/kim-kardashian-west-future-of-skims">Kim Kardashian</a>, are similar to the corsets and girdles of the past. They are designed to pull the wearer’s waist in as <a href="https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/do-waist-trainers-work#:%7E:text=A%20waist%20trainer%20is%20a,tough%20fabric%20and%20hard%20fibers.">tight as possible</a> to achieve an eye-wateringly <a href="https://www.instyle.com/beauty/health-fitness/what-is-a-waist-trainer">“snatched” look</a> – TikTok speak for creating the illusion of a tiny, accentuated waist. </p>
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<p>Endorsed by influential celebrities such as <a href="https://theconversation.com/corsets-and-waist-trainers-how-celebrities-and-influencers-have-driven-our-modern-obsession-with-shapewear-183859">Nikki Minaj</a> and <a href="https://www.cosmopolitan.com/uk/entertainment/a19490856/kylie-jenner-waist-training-post-baby-body-instagram-ad/">Kylie Jenner</a>, the waist trainer, if worn over a prolonged period, may help achieve a temporary <a href="https://www.mymed.com/health-wellness/body-modifications/the-practice-of-waist-training-and-corsetry/the-dangers-and-benefits-of-aesthetic-waist-training">hourglass figure</a>. And like the corset, the waist trainer does seem to <a href="https://static1.squarespace.com/static/591218e0f7e0abcf6ce40add/t/5fbecbbfeaf37e3b64805419/1606339541761/The_Kurious_Kase_of_Kim_Kardashians_Korset_Alanna_McKnight_Fashion_Studies.pdf">have some benefits</a> – it may <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0169814121000433">help improve posture</a>, for example. </p>
<p>Waist trainers and similar shapewear can also give the appearance of significant weight loss. But any actual weight loss from wearing the item is most likely because of water loss through <a href="https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/do-waist-trainers-work">sweating and muscle atrophy</a> – muscles in the core are used less while wearing waist-trainers, so long-term use can lead to muscle wastage.</p>
<p>Also, the pressure exerted on the waist and internal organs can cause appetite loss. Perhaps unsurprisingly, prolonged wearing of waist trainers can result in <a href="https://www.healthline.com/health/are-waist-trainers-dangerous">gastrointestinal issues</a> such as acid reflux and, in more extreme cases, the pressure on the diaphragm can cause respiratory problems. </p>
<p>If that isn’t enough, wearers of waist trainers and corsets may be at <a href="https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/do-waist-trainers-work#are-they-safe">risk of fainting due to reduced oxygen</a>. There’s also a reported case of a woman who developed <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7566978/#:%7E:text=ALI%20is%20caused%20by%20many,abdominal%20liposuction%20and%20gluteal%20augmentation.">acute lower-limb ischemia</a> (a serious condition usually caused by a blood clot) after wearing a waist trainer – although such extreme health outcomes are very rare. </p>
<p>And while the potential health risks of wearing waist trainers might seem overwhelming, a study in the <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/314102718_Randomized_controlled_trial_of_abdominal_binders_for_postoperative_pain_distress_and_blood_loss_after_cesarean_delivery">International Journal of Gynaecology and Obsestrics</a> found women who wore them following a cesarean delivery experienced less pain. </p>
<h2>Heavy earrings</h2>
<p>The emergence of the <a href="https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/a46493231/mob-wife-aesthetic-trend-explained/">“mob wife” trend</a>, with its <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2024/01/28/style/mob-wife-aesthetic-trend.html">aesthetic signifiers</a> of fur coats, leopard prints and <a href="https://www.hellomagazine.com/fashion/royal-style/513845/princess-diana-original-mob-wife-fashion/">chunky gold jewellery</a>, has also popularised weighty earrings. But the <a href="https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/jocd.14552">regular and prolonged wearing</a> of heavy earrings can cause elongation and thinning of the earlobe, which in extreme cases can <a href="https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/entry/heavy-earrings-aging-skin_n_561bf656e4b0082030a35c59#:%7E:text=According%20to%20Edward%20Miranda%2C%20a%20board-certified%20plastic%20surgeon%2C,and%20ultimately%20can%20rupture%20and%20split.%20More%20items">cause the lobe to split</a>. </p>
<p>To correct the damage caused by wearing excessively heavy or large earrings, lobe surgery has become one of the <a href="https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/earlobe-reduction-plastic-surgery-trend-cosmetics-a8172951.html">most common plastic surgery trends</a>. </p>
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<p>But it is not just heavy earrings that you may need to be wary of. Large <a href="https://galoremag.com/wear-big-hoops-without-getting-caught-everything/">thin hoops</a>, although seemingly lightweight, can get caught in hair and clothes. In 2023, a TikTok video of a woman showing the tear in her earlobe caused by a large hoop earring went viral, with over <a href="https://nypost.com/2023/02/16/i-liked-wearing-heavy-earrings-until-hoops-tore-open-my-earlobe/">1.3 million views</a>. </p>
<h2>Ill-fitting thongs</h2>
<p>Love them or hate them, <a href="https://graziamagazine.com/us/articles/early-aughts-exposed-thong-trend-is-back/">the thong is a fashion classic</a>. From showgirls at the World Fair in the 1930s to 2023’s <a href="https://www.elle.com/uk/fashion/trends/a42416238/celebrity-exposed-thong-trend/">whale tail trend</a> for wearing a thong peeking out from the waistband of clothing, these notorious items have been rubbing us the wrong way for almost a century.</p>
<p>Renowned for being uncomfortable, it’s perhaps unsurprising that ill-fitting thongs can cause intimate irritation and chafing, especially if made from synthetic fabrics.</p>
<p>But it’s not all doom and gloom. <a href="https://obgyn.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/jog.13958">Research has shown</a> that a well-fitting thong made from natural fibres, alongside regular washing of underwear and scrupulous personal hygiene, can ensure thong-wearers enjoy their whale tails in comfort.</p>
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<a href="https://theconversation.com/health-warning-five-fashion-trends-that-are-terrible-for-you-43738">Health warning: five fashion trends that are terrible for you</a>
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<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Naomi Braithwaite does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>Keeping up with the Kardashians can be a real pain. How fashion trends from waist trainers to celebrity endorsed sneakers could do more harm than good.Naomi Braithwaite, Associate Professor in Fashion Marketing and Branding, Nottingham Trent UniversityLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/2155992023-12-04T23:32:48Z2023-12-04T23:32:48ZAt HOTA, sneakers find their well-deserved place in art galleries at last<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/563135/original/file-20231203-15-2rftik.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=9%2C0%2C1600%2C1074&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">PUMA X RIME NYC Luxe Sky Wedge (2013), Ed Reeve, Design Museum London.</span> </figcaption></figure><p>Sneakers were once traditionally associated with what fashion academic Naomi Braithwaite describes as “<a href="https://theconversation.com/the-history-of-sneakers-from-commodity-to-cultural-icon-127268">athleticism</a>”: they were only considered in their relationship to sports. </p>
<p>But things have changed in one of the most significant yet overlooked style revolutions of our times. In the late 20th century, sneakers became the footwear of choice for youth and subcultures. In the 21st century, they are the defining footwear of our era. </p>
<p>Sneakers are ubiquitous: on the feet of elite athletes, icons of street cultures, super models on prestigious runways, and ordinary people for exercise, leisure and work. Global sales hit <a href="https://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/sneakers-market-report">US$79 billion</a> in 2021.</p>
<p>With such diverse consumer identities and needs, how have designers responded over the years? And what stories are behind the success of certain sneakers? </p>
<p>Sneakers Unboxed: Studio to Street at HOTA, Home of the Arts, attempts to answer these questions with an impressive collection curated by Ligaya Salazar from the Design Museum in London, with some local additions.</p>
<h2>An engaging journey</h2>
<p>This exhibition offers an engaging journey of exploration in two parts. The first is Style. We step into a gallery of aeroplane hanger proportions. Sneakers are in glass cases with text highlighting their importance as historical pieces; there are giant photographs of youth cultures and icons wearing fashionable “kicks” on the walls; a basketball court with bean bags to watch short films. </p>
<p>There is no one “sneaker culture”. Subcultures are often hyper-fashion conscious and brand obsessed. </p>
<p>A timeline of sneaker history traces their rising status in youth cultures in New York during the 1970s, then in the basketball and hip-hop worlds where sneakers transformed from sports shoe to fashion statement.</p>
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<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/563137/original/file-20231203-15-v0428h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/563137/original/file-20231203-15-v0428h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/563137/original/file-20231203-15-v0428h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/563137/original/file-20231203-15-v0428h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/563137/original/file-20231203-15-v0428h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/563137/original/file-20231203-15-v0428h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/563137/original/file-20231203-15-v0428h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/563137/original/file-20231203-15-v0428h.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
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<span class="caption">Converse All Star (1930). Ed Reeve, Design Museum London.</span>
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<p>Shiny white runners worn by Run-DMC are set side-by-side with Michael Jordan’s famous shoes. Icons and the shoes they made famous are given a good dose of reverence, but in a way that is accessible. You can get up close and admire the shoes, read some of the history through the wall texts, and absorb the historical significance of the shoes through the photographs accompanying each case.</p>
<p>There is an impressive section on skate culture including <a href="https://www.vans.com/en-us/company/about">VANS</a>, which was founded in 1966 and one of the leading shoes for skateboarders. The exhibition perceptively understands the culture as well as the shoes. </p>
<p>Photographs of well-known skaters from the 1970s and 1980s sit alongside a nod to Thrasher magazine and insight into how skaters “destroy” shoes as part of their practice. Deteriorating and ripped shoes can be a badge of honour, as one demolished pair of VANS once worn by a seasoned skater in the exhibition shows.</p>
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<span class="caption">Installation view, Sneakers Unboxed: Studio to Street at HOTA Gallery. Credit Milk and Honey Creative.</span>
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<h2>Scientific advances</h2>
<p>The second part of the exhibition is Performance, detailing the scientific research – from shoes that measure temperature to ones designed to be more sustainable.</p>
<p>There is a chance to better understand how the feel and performance of sneakers have been developed, and how basketball sneakers have benefited from input by Chuck Taylor. </p>
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<span class="caption">Onitsuka Tiger TG4 Marathon (1968 - 72). Ed Reeve, Design Museum London.</span>
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<p>There are interesting concept-driven shoes by Puma, including self-lacing shoes, and shoes designed to <a href="https://www.cnbc.com/2018/06/05/puma-mit-shoes-can-breathe.html">read biological information</a> of the wearer.</p>
<p>However scientifically advanced these shoes are, they are not always aesthetically appealing – some by Puma remind me of fancy Crocs.</p>
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Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/gen-z-grew-up-in-a-world-filled-with-ugly-fashion-no-wonder-they-love-their-crocs-200718">Gen Z grew up in a world filled with ugly fashion – no wonder they love their Crocs</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<h2>Cultural vibrancy</h2>
<p>The exhibition features a photo of Tommie Smith and John Carlos with Norman Williams from the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1968_Olympics_Black_Power_salute">1968 Olympics in Mexico City</a>. While Smith and Carlos wore only black socks in the most famous photo of their Black Power salute, they wore <a href="https://www.nssmag.com/en/fashion/23815/puma-suede-limited-edition-tommie-smith">Puma</a> shoes in the race that won them the medals, later infamously stripped from them.</p>
<p>Beside the famous podium photograph are a pair of the same style of Puma shoes, an example of how sneakers are embedded with social meanings and sometimes politically shape tensions beyond their intended purpose for high performance sport.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/563139/original/file-20231203-18-lmlt5g.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/563139/original/file-20231203-18-lmlt5g.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/563139/original/file-20231203-18-lmlt5g.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/563139/original/file-20231203-18-lmlt5g.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/563139/original/file-20231203-18-lmlt5g.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/563139/original/file-20231203-18-lmlt5g.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/563139/original/file-20231203-18-lmlt5g.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/563139/original/file-20231203-18-lmlt5g.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Adidas NMD HU Pharrell Human Race ‘Yellow’ (2016). Ed Reeve, Design Museum London.</span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Sneakers Unboxed aims to celebrate the cultural vibrancy and design milestones of the sneaker world, rather than ddress its failures and shortcomings. But there is an effort to acknowledge issues. A <a href="https://hota.com.au/whats-on/live/talks-and-ideas/sneakers-unboxed-women-in-sneakers-panel">Women in Sneakers</a> panel (which I spoke at) looked at how the industry can improve gender equity and social inclusion. Short films highlighting scenes in the Global South highlight voices that rarely get a platform. </p>
<p>Sneakers have a global appeal and different communities and locations shape the culture. A section on grime – a rap movement from the early 2000s predating the harder hitting drill music from Chicago that spread to the United Kingdom ten years later – highlights how Black youth in the UK are creating their own forms of pride, identity and belonging.</p>
<p>The sneaker industry has ties to many social issues including colonialism and labour exploitation. None of the big brands are without serious critique. More conversations like the ones in the panel and short films are valuable and needed to keep up the momentum to push brands to improve and do better.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/563141/original/file-20231203-27-esyf9q.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/563141/original/file-20231203-27-esyf9q.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/563141/original/file-20231203-27-esyf9q.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/563141/original/file-20231203-27-esyf9q.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/563141/original/file-20231203-27-esyf9q.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/563141/original/file-20231203-27-esyf9q.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/563141/original/file-20231203-27-esyf9q.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/563141/original/file-20231203-27-esyf9q.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Sneaker Archaeology. 2021. Artist: Helen Kirkum. Ed Reeve, Design Museum London.</span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>If you love sneakers and are a die-hard fan, this is the exhibit for you. However, those totally oblivious to the cultural relevance of sneakers will also enjoy learning about the history of sneakers in music and subcultures, fashion, the world of collectors and high-performance sport.</p>
<p>This exhibition opens the door on the sneaker world and our love of this footwear. It is up to all of us – but especially industry – to commit to finding ways to be more responsive to local and global issues and ongoing efforts to move forward towards kicks with ethics.</p>
<p><em>Sneakers Unboxed: Studio to Street is now on at HOTA on the Gold Coast.</em></p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/the-history-of-sneakers-from-commodity-to-cultural-icon-127268">The history of sneakers: from commodity to cultural icon</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/215599/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Indigo Willing was a speaker on the Women in Sneakers Panel hosted by HOTA.</span></em></p>Sneakers Unboxed: Studio to Street is now on at HOTA on the Gold Coast.Indigo Willing, Social Science Fellow, The Sydney Social Science and Humanities Advanced Research Centre, The University of Sydney. Adjunct Research Fellow, Griffith Centre for Social and Cultural Research, Griffith UniversityLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/2028522023-05-16T00:22:13Z2023-05-16T00:22:13ZDo high top shoes actually reduce ankle sprain risk? Here’s what the research says<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/523978/original/file-20230503-21-w1vpab.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=0%2C27%2C5943%2C3944&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">
</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Shutterstock</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>Ankle sprain is one of the most common musculoskeletal injuries, particularly in sports like netball, basketball and football where jumping, landing on one foot and sudden direction changes are part of the game.</p>
<p>Ankle sprains can be painful, debilitating and may result in ongoing ankle problems. In fact, people with a history of a previous ankle sprain are <a href="https://theconversation.com/why-do-i-sprain-my-ankle-so-often-and-how-can-i-cut-the-risk-of-it-happening-again-190751">more likely</a> to sprain an ankle again in future.</p>
<p>Prevention is key. In an effort to reduce sprain risk, many people look for “high-top” shoes, where the section around the side of the shoe (also known as the “collar”) extends up closer to the ankle.</p>
<p>But what does the research say? Do high-top shoes actually reduce your sprain risk?</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/523959/original/file-20230503-22-a7yuex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=0%2C18%2C6230%2C4128&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="A person wears high top shoes." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/523959/original/file-20230503-22-a7yuex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=0%2C18%2C6230%2C4128&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/523959/original/file-20230503-22-a7yuex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/523959/original/file-20230503-22-a7yuex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/523959/original/file-20230503-22-a7yuex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/523959/original/file-20230503-22-a7yuex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/523959/original/file-20230503-22-a7yuex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/523959/original/file-20230503-22-a7yuex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">In an effort to reduce sprain risk, many people look for high-top shoes.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Shutterstock</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/why-do-i-sprain-my-ankle-so-often-and-how-can-i-cut-the-risk-of-it-happening-again-190751">Why do I sprain my ankle so often? And how can I cut the risk of it happening again?</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<h2>High-tops don’t always help – and can sometimes harm</h2>
<p>Plenty of research exists on this topic but unravelling the truth is complicated by inconsistency between studies. Researchers may have different ways of investigating the issue, of measuring the shoes success, or even different ways of defining a “high-top” shoe. </p>
<p>For example, the reported difference in collar height between “high-top” to “low-top” shoes was considerable, ranging from 4.3 to 8.5cm across <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/pdf/10.1177/2210491720950325">different studies</a>. </p>
<p>That said, the trend in the current research literature suggests the ankle protection provided by high-top shoes may not be enough to significantly reduce sprain risk while playing sport. </p>
<p>In fact, this design may also reduce athletic performance, and increase the risk of ankle sprain in some people.</p>
<p><a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/pdf/10.1177/2210491720950325">Research</a> does support the idea high-top shoes provide good stability when outside forces may cause an ankle sprain when the person is stationary (for example, when a person standing still is knocked from the side and starts to topple over, putting stress on the ankle).</p>
<p>However, once you start moving it’s a different story. In fact, some research suggests high-top shoes may even increase the risk of ankle sprain in some activities. </p>
<p>This may be because these shoes can change the way we use the muscles in our ankles and legs.</p>
<p>Specifically the muscles on the <a href="https://jfootankleres.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/1757-1146-7-14">outside</a> of the lower leg may start firing later and not work as strongly to stiffen the ankle when your’re wearing high top shoes (compared to low top shoes).</p>
<p>To reduce ankle sprain risk, it is important the muscles on both sides of the legs <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0021929016311563?via%3Dihub">work together</a> at the same time.</p>
<p>Tellingly, delayed and weaker activation of the muscles on the outside of the lower leg is <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23899892/">greater</a> in people with chronic ankle instability. This finding suggests high-top shoes may not be the best choice for anyone with a history of ankle sprain. </p>
<p>There is also some <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/026404197367146">evidence</a> wearing high-top shoes may impede athletic performance by reducing jump height and increasing shock transmission to other parts of the body.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/524264/original/file-20230504-26-jbv9o5.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/524264/original/file-20230504-26-jbv9o5.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/524264/original/file-20230504-26-jbv9o5.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/524264/original/file-20230504-26-jbv9o5.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/524264/original/file-20230504-26-jbv9o5.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/524264/original/file-20230504-26-jbv9o5.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/524264/original/file-20230504-26-jbv9o5.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/524264/original/file-20230504-26-jbv9o5.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">What is crucial when selecting footwear is good fit and good function.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Shutterstock</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<h2>Getting the right fit</h2>
<p>External supports such as tape and braces are effective in both uninjured and previously injured ankles. But they’re <a href="https://meridian.allenpress.com/jat/article/54/6/650/420871/Prevention-of-Lateral-Ankle-Sprains">most effective</a> when used in combination with preventive exercise programs.</p>
<p>What is crucial when selecting footwear is good fit and good function. Footwear should fit the foot in length, width and depth, with a thumb’s width between the end of the longest toe and the tip of the shoe. You should have enough space across the ball of the foot for it to not be pulled tight when standing. </p>
<p>However, around <a href="https://jfootankleres.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s13047-018-0284-z">70%</a> of people are wearing shoes that are not fitted appropriately. Women and girls more often have shoes that are too narrow, and older males often wear shoes that are too long. </p>
<p>Ill-fitting footwear <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0966636221001478?via%3Dihub">can</a> increase falls, induce greater levels of osteoarthritis and impedes natural foot function in adults and children. </p>
<p>Make sure you’ve got the right shoe for the job. Form must suit function.</p>
<p>As an example, there’s merit in wearing a well-fitted high-top sneaker during static, standing based activities.</p>
<p>However, a low-top sneaker may be more beneficial during sporting activities that require frequent stopping, jumping, sudden changes in direction or for people with a <a href="https://jfootankleres.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/1757-1146-7-14">history of ankle sprains</a>.</p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/running-shoes-may-cause-injuries-but-is-going-barefoot-the-fix-135264">Running shoes may cause injuries – but is going barefoot the fix?</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/202852/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Kristin Graham is affiliated with Australian Podiatry Association. Non executive member. </span></em></p><p class="fine-print"><em><span>Helen Banwell has received in-kind support from ASICS Oceania and Skobi in the last two years. Neither funded the relevant studies – just gave us the shoes. I am currently involved as an external ‘content expert’ on a study with Monash with Bobux shoes but the study has been on hold since Covid started and I’m not receiving any monies for my involvement. </span></em></p><p class="fine-print"><em><span>Ryan Causby receives funding from Australasian Podiatry Education Research Fund. He is a Director on the Australasian Council of Podiatry Deans and a member of the Australian Podiatry Association.</span></em></p><p class="fine-print"><em><span>Lewis Ingram and Saravana Kumar do not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and have disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>The ankle protection provided by high-top shoes may not be enough to reduce sprain risk significantly. In fact, this design may reduce athletic performance, and increase risk of ankle sprain for some.Kristin Graham, Lecturer in Podiatry, University of South AustraliaHelen Banwell, Lecturer in Podiatry, University of South AustraliaLewis Ingram, Lecturer in Physiotherapy, University of South AustraliaRyan Causby, Dean of Programs (Allied Health), University of South AustraliaSaravana Kumar, Professor in Allied Health and Health Services Research, University of South AustraliaLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/2034632023-05-15T11:56:49Z2023-05-15T11:56:49Z8th Street Samba: here’s why the authentic collaboration behind the ‘perfect sneaker’ matters<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/522586/original/file-20230424-28-xjfdxl.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=0%2C0%2C1337%2C1056&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">The many colour ways of the 8th Street Samba shoe.</span> <span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://kith.com/blogs/kith/the-8th-street-samba-by-ronnie-fieg-for-adidas-originals-clarks-originals">Courtesy of Kith</a>, <a class="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/">CC BY-SA</a></span></figcaption></figure><p>From <a href="https://www.nike.com/au/launch/t/air-force-1-tiffany-and-co-black">Nike Air Force 1 x Tiffany & Co</a> to <a href="https://www.crocs.com/KFC.html">Crocs x KFC</a>, footwear collaborations are rife. But the recent release of <a href="https://www.highsnobiety.com/tag/ronnie-fieg/">Kith founder</a> Ronnie Fieg’s <a href="https://kith.com/blogs/news/the-8th-street-samba-by-ronnie-fieg-for-adidas-originals-clarks-originals">8th Street Samba</a> for Adidas Originals and Clarks Originals is special.</p>
<p>In a saturated market, <a href="https://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/nike-and-tiffany-and-co-do-we-need-yet-another-fashion-crossover-20230202-p5chbn.html">fatigued</a> by increasingly gratuitous partnerships, fashion news outlets have praised the collaboration for its timeless authenticity, touting it the <a href="https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/fashion/article/adidas-clarks-ronnie-fieg-samba-sneaker-collab-2023">“perfect sneaker” and “holy trinity”</a> of collaborations.</p>
<p>And consumers seem to agree. Pairs of the limited edition sneaker have <a href="https://stockx.com/en-gb/adidas-clarks-8th-street-samba-by-ronnie-fieg-chalk-white-green">resold</a> for up to five times the original price. Pre-orders of a subsequent second release closed, with buyers willing to wait up to six months for delivery.</p>
<p>As fashion researchers, we’re concerned by the environmental impact of an ever-increasing number of collaborations, where authenticity is undermined by commercial objectives. While the 8th Street Samba isn’t designed to be a sustainable shoe, we’re interested in how meaningful partnerships can help to inspire a slower and more sustainable fashion system.</p>
<h2>Footwear’s sustainability problem</h2>
<p>As one of the world’s <a href="https://www.bloomberg.com/graphics/2022-fashion-industry-environmental-impact/">greatest polluters</a>, the fashion industry has come under increasing pressure to become more sustainable. With progress towards a more <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2023/apr/17/fashion-greenwashing-glossary-what-do-circular-sustainable-and-zero-waste-really-mean">circular</a> approach now underway (where items are made from reused materials that can themselves be repeatedly reused, repaired and recycled), attention is turning to <a href="https://www.bettershoes.org/introduction">footwear.</a></p>
<p>Footwear is <a href="https://traid.org.uk/footwork/">fashion’s least sustainable category</a>. Each year, 24.3 billion shoes are produced globally. With an estimated 90% not recycled, approximately <a href="https://www.bettershoes.org/introduction">1.2 million tonnes</a> of post-consumer shoe waste is created annually in the EU alone. Complex construction, particularly of sneakers, means most cannot be disassembled for recycling or repair.</p>
<p>We’re producing and consuming too many new shoes and collaborations are part of the problem.</p>
<p><div data-react-class="InstagramEmbed" data-react-props="{"url":"https://www.instagram.com/p/CqDXhZEuQ7C","accessToken":"127105130696839|b4b75090c9688d81dfd245afe6052f20"}"></div></p>
<p>Collaborating is key to sneaker and streetwear culture. From the archetypal Converse “Chuck” Taylor All-Star and Puma Clyde, to the Nike Air Jordan and Run DMC Adidas Superstar. Links to sports stars, artists and lifestyles have transformed once practical and comfortable sports shoes into highly <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/10253866.2020.1741357">fetishised commodities</a>.</p>
<p>Collaborations are a marketing tactic in which two (or occasionally more) brands combine their values and aesthetics to produce a unified product. The goal is to appeal to new markets and build brand image, equity and credibility.</p>
<p>For connoisseurs, or <a href="https://doi.org/10.1186/s40691-020-00228-3">“sneakerheads”</a>, the value of a collaboration is in its scarcity (often released as a limited edition) and the story it tells. At their best, collaborations enable and celebrate connections between brands, histories, cultures and communities. </p>
<p>However, the values that once made them special are becoming a thing of the past. In an industry increasingly obsessed with reach and hype, collaborations have become the norm. According to an <a href="https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/sneaker-collaborations/">article in Highsnobiety</a>, the frequency of production and numbers left sitting on shelves are putting the sneaker industry at risk of “collaborating itself to death”. </p>
<p>Even sneakerheads themselves are <a href="https://www.sneak-ahead.org/">calling for a return to a slower, more considered approach.</a></p>
<h2>What makes an authentic collaboration?</h2>
<p>Broadly defined, an authentic product or brand is one that may be perceived as being sincere, original, unique, natural, having utility and bringing pleasure.</p>
<p><div data-react-class="Tweet" data-react-props="{"tweetId":"1637118112016285697"}"></div></p>
<p>Heritage brands such as Clarks Originals and Adidas Originals tick a number of these boxes making them desirable collaborative partners. Yet as author and journalist <a href="https://david-boyle.co.uk/david-boyle">David Boyle</a> explains:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Authenticity doesn’t just mean reliving the past: it means using it to find new ways of living – maybe even new kinds of progress. The most authentic isn’t necessarily the most true to the past; it could be the most creative or the most human.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The three-way partnership between Clarks, Adidas and Kith is nothing if not creative and human. The unique combination of the crepe sole and suede upper of the Clarks Wallabee shoe with the silhouette and three stripes of the Adidas Samba sneaker tells the nostalgic story of 90s streetwear in New York and beyond.</p>
<p>Having worn Clarks Originals for most of his life, Ronnie Fieg’s participation in the collaboration provided the subcultural capital required to make it meaningful and authentic. In a <a href="https://kith.com/blogs/news/the-8th-street-samba-by-ronnie-fieg-for-adidas-originals-clarks-originals">blog post</a> the streetwear enthusiast recalled working in his uncle’s footwear store, David Z. on New York’s 8th Street, throughout the 1990s. The experience enabled him to build a deep understanding of the cultural significance of both Adidas and Clarks, which then inspired the collaboration.</p>
<p>As marketing professor <a href="https://link.springer.com/book/10.1057/9780230250802">Michael Beverland</a> explains, loyal fans are what give brands meaning. Brands that innovate while consistently and truthfully respecting (rather than exploiting) the creative and human processes that make their products meaningful are perceived as authentic.</p>
<p>Authentic collaborations, then, come when creative teams are able to take the time to fully research, observe, understand and even immerse themselves in the social lives of their products. This understanding enables them to make intuitive and respectful decisions about which partnerships and projects they pursue.</p>
<p>Clarks Originals have a history of going one stage further by actually employing or collaborating with their consumers. In this case, authentic products blur the line between who produces and who consumes.</p>
<h2>From selling soles to saving them</h2>
<p>Research has shown that many <a href="https://intellectdiscover.com/content/journals/10.1386/csfb.5.1.25_1">Clarks Originals wearers</a> develop a sentimental attachment to their shoes, which comes from a respect for the brand and the bond they develop with them through wear.</p>
<p>Clarks Originals, including the 8th Street Samba, are made from leather, suede and natural crepe rubber. Unlike polyurethane leather and other synthetic alternatives, these materials age gracefully and transform with the wearer, becoming mnemonic (memory) objects that store and recall the traces of bodies, personal stories and experiences.</p>
<p>Once worn out (the soles and laces are usually the first to go), many are reluctant to dispose of them and begrudge having to wear in a new pair. While these shoes may not be materially durable, like other special shoes, they are simply <a href="https://footwearresearchnetwork.org/articles/dormant-shoes-why-do-we-keep-shoes-we-no-longer-wear">too meaningful to throw away</a>.</p>
<p>According to professor of sustainable design, <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/286752949_Emotionally_durable_design_Objects_experiences_and_empathy">Jonathan Chapman</a>, designing for this kind of “<a href="https://www.greenbiz.com/article/playing-keeps-designing-emotional-durability-key-circular-economy">emotional durability</a>” presents an opportunity to develop alternative, sustainable business models that cater for repair, recycling and reuse rather than replacement.</p>
<p><div data-react-class="InstagramEmbed" data-react-props="{"url":"https://www.instagram.com/reel/CpSzoJ5pfMZ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link\u0026igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==","accessToken":"127105130696839|b4b75090c9688d81dfd245afe6052f20"}"></div></p>
<p><a href="https://www.linkedin.com/feed/update/urn:li:activity:7054019412240015360?updateEntityUrn=urn%3Ali%3Afs_feedUpdate%3A%28V2%2Curn%3Ali%3Aactivity%3A7054019412240015360%29">Responses</a> to French sneaker brand Veja’s recent <a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/CpSzoJ5pfMZ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==">sneaker-restoring service</a> demonstrate there is a considerable appetite for services and experiences that assist consumers to continue relationships with the things they love.</p>
<p>According to a recent article for the <a href="https://footwearresearchnetwork.org/articles/the-art-and-science-of-repair-towards-a-responsible-and-meaningful-relationship-with-footwear">Footwear Research Network</a>, when led by brands themselves, these repair and recycling services not only enhance consumer satisfaction and loyalty, but also generate data that brands can use to improve product durability and quality.</p>
<p>While collaborations can be problematic, when done authentically they can provide solutions.</p>
<p>Collaborating with consumers to both create and prolong the lives of meaningful products like the 8th Street Samba is one way to help ensure an environmentally and economically sustainable future for the footwear industry. It can also help to restore a sense of authenticity to an industry at risk of losing its credibility.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/203463/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>The authors do not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and have disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>In a saturated market, fatigued by gratuitous partnerships such as Nike x Tiffany & Co., this collaboration has been praised for its timeless authenticity.Alexandra Sherlock, Lecturer, School of Fashion and Textiles, RMIT UniversityAndrew Groves, Professor of Fashion Design, University of WestminsterLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/2038242023-04-28T12:45:49Z2023-04-28T12:45:49ZIn ‘Air,’ Michael Jordan’s silence speaks volumes about the marketing of Black athletes<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/522369/original/file-20230421-26-t3g1lg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=4%2C4%2C3089%2C1896&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Jordan wears his iconic 'Air Jordan' Nike sneakers during a game in 1985.</span> <span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/detail-of-the-air-jordan-nike-shoes-worn-by-chicago-bulls-news-photo/53033254?adppopup=true">Focus on Sport/Getty Images</a></span></figcaption></figure><p>The film “<a href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt16419074/">Air</a>,” which tells the story of Nike’s signing of Michael Jordan, isn’t actually about Michael Jordan at all.</p>
<p>It’s about the beauty of design and the seduction of marketing. It’s about power suits, purple Porsches and Rolexes. It’s about white men languishing through midlife crises who salivate over the branding potential of a star basketball player.</p>
<p>As for Jordan? Audiences just see his back as he strolls into the Nike offices and his hands as he admires the Air Jordan prototype – but never his face. In the entire film, he utters only three words.</p>
<p>Much has been made about <a href="https://slate.com/culture/2023/04/air-movie-ben-affleck-matt-damon-sonny-vaccaro.html">Michael Jordan’s representation</a> or lack thereof in “Air.”</p>
<p>How could a film about one of the most famous Black men in the world obscure his presence?</p>
<p>The film’s true power is its ability to convey an unnerving truth about the sneakers’ mystique: Jordan’s athletic ability was crucial to the success of Nike and Air Jordan; not so much his face – and definitely not his words.</p>
<p>In this way, “Air” becomes the story of how a struggling company created one of the most successful brands in the world on the back of a Black body, a tale as old as the nation itself.</p>
<h2>Liftoff</h2>
<p>In 1983, Nike’s marketing director, Rob Strasser, wrote an <a href="https://www.pdxmonthly.com/articles/2016/6/13/meet-the-man-who-reinvented-nike-seduced-adidas-and-helped-make-portland-the-sports-gear-capital-of-the-world">internal memo</a> explaining the importance of using star athletes to sell their products: “Individual athletes, even more than teams, will be the heroes; symbols more and more of what real people can’t do anymore – risk and win.” </p>
<p>This memo appeared during a turbulent period for Nike. The company <a href="https://s1.q4cdn.com/806093406/files/doc_financials/1981/1981%20annual%20report.pdf">had gone public in 1980</a> with a listless opening. In 1984, the company posted its first losing quarter and initiated a monthlong wave of layoffs employees called the “<a href="https://www.pdxmonthly.com/news-and-city-life/2016/06/meet-the-man-who-reinvented-nike-seduced-adidas-and-helped-make-portland-the-sports-gear-capital-of-the-world">St. Valentine’s Day Massacre</a>.”</p>
<p>Who would be that hero? The ailing shoe company sought a body brimming with transcendent talent, a superhuman athlete. </p>
<p>Enter the Chicago Bulls’ Michael Jordan, of whom Boston Celtics legend <a href="https://bleacherreport.com/articles/2887426-god-disguised-as-michael-jordan-when-everything-changed-for-his-airness">Larry Bird once said</a>, “I think he’s God disguised as Michael Jordan.”</p>
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<img alt="Bald man in red shirt adjusts his watch." src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/523305/original/file-20230427-22-g91hvf.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/523305/original/file-20230427-22-g91hvf.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=813&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/523305/original/file-20230427-22-g91hvf.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=813&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/523305/original/file-20230427-22-g91hvf.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=813&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/523305/original/file-20230427-22-g91hvf.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1021&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/523305/original/file-20230427-22-g91hvf.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1021&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/523305/original/file-20230427-22-g91hvf.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1021&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
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<span class="caption">Sports agent David Falk represented Michael Jordan during the entirety of his career.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/sports-agent-david-falk-looks-on-during-a-game-between-the-news-photo/382245?adppopup=true">Doug Pensinger/Allsport via Getty Images</a></span>
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<p><a href="https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/549826/sneakers-by-rodrigo-corral-alex-french-and-howie-kahn/">During the summer of 1984</a>, Nike shoe designer Peter Moore and Strasser gathered in the Washington, D.C., office of Jordan’s agent, David Falk. </p>
<p>In a scene authors Rodrigo Corral, Alex French and Howie Kahn detail in their 2017 book, “<a href="https://www.penguinrandomhouse.ca/books/549826/sneakers-by-rodrigo-corral-alex-french-and-howie-kahn/9780448494333">Sneakers</a>,” Falk, after exchanging pleasantries, looked to Strasser and said, “Rob, I’ve got an idea. I want to marry Michael to your airbag technology.” </p>
<p>Nike had developed <a href="https://books.google.com/books/about/The_Sneaker_Book.html?id=Drg9PgAACAAJ">its air cushions</a> in 1977. It involved infusing the midsoles of shoes with pockets of pressurized gas to absorb shock, but the company was having a difficult time marketing it.</p>
<p>Falk then paused for dramatic effect, before uttering, “Air Jordan.”</p>
<p>In 1985, Nike released the first Air Jordan sneaker. A year later, <a href="https://www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-1993-10-07-9310070083-story.html">Nike sold US$100 million</a> worth of Air Jordan shoes and apparel, boosting the company’s profits to $59 million from only $10 million the year before.</p>
<p>After 38 years and 37 iterations of their flagship line of basketball shoes, Jordans have become a transcendent cultural talisman memorializing Michael Jordan’s career and basketball’s influence on American life – but also, his labor.</p>
<p>Today, <a href="https://www.forbes.com/companies/nike/?sh=52574e9c6eb5">Nike is worth a staggering $200 billion</a>. Meanwhile, the Jordan brand, which was <a href="https://www.si.com/fannation/sneakers/news/jordan-brand-launched-25-years-ago-today">spun off into its own company in 1997</a>, brings in billions of dollars per year, of which <a href="https://frontofficesports.com/jordan-more-than-doubled-his-nba-career-earnings-in-2022-from-nike-deal">Jordan pockets 5%</a>.</p>
<h2>Buying a piece of Blackness</h2>
<p>I’m writing a book that explores the intimate connections between sneakers and Blackness. In it, I argue that the Black body’s long history of objectification and commodification undergirds the branding, mass consumption and culture of sneakers.</p>
<p>What “Air” does better than anything else is to unbox a provocative, sobering truth about Jordans’ meteoric rise: They are cast as literal extensions of Black bodies. They represent the literal molding of a Black man’s feet, with their vulcanized rubber, leather and laces encapsulating Black athletic greatness and cool. </p>
<p>Finally figuring out how to sell Nike’s airbag technology was the other side of Air’s recipe for success. </p>
<p>In truth, Nike Air was a curiosity. It was unstable and unreliable. But runners became enamored with the idea of a cushioning technology they couldn’t see and much less understand. People knew they loved the sensation of Air even though the “how” remained a mystery. </p>
<p>The seemingly simple concept of explaining Air had eluded the company. <a href="https://powerhousebooks.com/books/sole-provider-thirty-years-of-nike-basketball/">In an interview with journalist Scoop Jackson</a>, Bruce Kilgore, Nike designer responsible for the <a href="https://www.kickgame.co.uk/blogs/sneaker-news/how-bruce-kilgore-encapsulated-sneaker-culture">Air Force 1</a>, articulated the difficulty of taking the air midsole from idea to execution to market: “How do you take something inherently unstable and put [it] into [a basketball shoe] that is all about stability?” </p>
<p>But six years after the development of the air midsole, David Falk cracked the code of Nike’s transparent, little black box: Don’t market the technology. Market the body that wears it.</p>
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<figcaption><span class="caption">The first TV ad for Air Jordans features the iconic line, ‘Who says man was not meant to fly?’</span></figcaption>
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<p>This marketing ploy to shift the attention of consumers from mundane pockets of polyurethane to on-court performances, while indeed innovative, centers an incredibly old tradition of Americans seeing Black bodies as being spectacularly convertible to profit.</p>
<p>Air Jordans romanticize an American wistfulness for the stoic and branded Black workhorse. <a href="https://www.nps.gov/neri/planyourvisit/the-legend-of-john-henry-talcott-wv.htm">John Henry</a>, the legendary steel driver, was a hero, and so, too, is Jordan. For Black bodies – Jordan and Henry, but also athletes like <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2023/01/02/sports/football/damar-hamlin-bills-hit.html">Damar Hamlin</a>, who suffered a near-fatal injury during an NFL game in early 2023 – heroism is articulated through the hypnotizing anthem of toil and exhaustion.</p>
<p>Sports provide an easy cover for the perpetuation of this myth. Disgraced sports commentator Jimmy “The Greek” Snyder <a href="https://www.espn.com/espnplus/catalog/64d88369-89db-4c8a-a1b9-ba80986a4def/the-legend-of-jimmy-the-greek">once said</a>, “The Black is a better athlete to begin with … They can jump higher and run faster.” </p>
<p>How far removed is the marketing of Air Jordans from the words of Jimmy the Greek?</p>
<p>As the voiceover in the first Air Jordan television ad proclaims, “Who says man was not meant to fly?”</p>
<h2>Bodies ripe for the picking</h2>
<p>Before Nike’s dominance, brands like Pony, Converse and Adidas were popular on street corners and basketball courts around the country – a history told by DJ and author Bobbito Garcia in his 2003 book, “<a href="https://www.circlea.com/product/where-d-you-get-those-tenth-anniversary-edition/2264">Where’d You Get Those?</a>”</p>
<p>Nike and the Air Jordan, however, represented a watershed moment in which this bubbling market of “sneaker fiends,” as Garcia calls them, went mainstream. Through artful placement in Black films – specifically Spike Lee’s “<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jc6_XgtOQgI">Do the Right Thing</a>” – and with an assist from <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JbHI1yI1Ndk">Michael Jackson and hip-hop</a>, the Air Jordan line transformed sneakers into one of the most important footwear items and fashion brands the world has ever witnessed.</p>
<p>Nike would go on to feature scores of other Black athletes in its ad campaigns, and the names of these heroes ring off the tongue sharp and proud like a trumpet’s blare: <a href="https://img.cdn-pictorem.com/uploads/collection/S/SO5PKP9NEK/900_Row-One-Brand_bo_jackson_1988_nike_ad_sc_trainer_shoe.jpg">Bo Jackson</a>, <a href="https://sneakernews.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Penny-Hardaway-Air-Penny-1-from-Lil-Penny-book.jpg">Penny Hardaway</a>, <a href="https://i.pinimg.com/originals/33/bb/17/33bb17bce839e40918615c12c98e95c7.jpg">Kobe Bryant</a>, <a href="https://cdn.musebycl.io/2020-08/You%20Can%E2%80%99t%20Stop%20Sisters%20%7C%20Nike.jpg">Venus and Serena Williams</a>, <a href="https://cdn.wallpapersafari.com/26/46/nLoMke.jpg">Lebron James</a>.</p>
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<figcaption><span class="caption">An ad from Nike’s iconic ‘Bo Knows’ campaign, featuring star athlete Bo Jackson.</span></figcaption>
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<p>None of this would be possible without Nike’s big bet on Jordan.</p>
<p>So why does a film give Michael Jordan, the man who had so much to do with Nike’s success, so little to say? </p>
<p>I believe the answer is as uncomfortable as it is simple: Michael Jordan isn’t the film’s subject, but its object.</p>
<p>In one of the film’s more memorable scenes, Nike marketing executive Sonny Vaccaro, played by Matt Damon, goes to visit the Jordan family in Wilmington, North Carolina. </p>
<p>When he arrives, he greets James, Michael’s father, before being passed off to the real decision-maker: Deloris Jordan, the matriarch of the Jordan clan. Viola Davis portrays Deloris with a drowning depth. Every utterance and glance simmers. </p>
<p>“Five generations of Jordans are buried in these forests,” she announces as she sits with Vaccaro in their backyard. She’s polite but distant. Her piercing eyes know to be wary of unannounced visits from white men in shiny cars. Everyone wants a piece of her son, and it’s her job to keep him whole. </p>
<p>In the film, before unveiling the Air Jordan 1 to Vaccaro and Strasser, Peter Moore, played by Matthew Maher, describes the shoe: “It has the logic of water, like shoe was always here, like it always existed.” </p>
<p>What Moore cannot know is how right he really is. Deloris Jordan and those five buried generations have always been here. </p>
<p>The Black body, from America’s inception, has always been there, as cotton and as sugar, ripe for the picking.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/203824/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>A. Joseph Dial does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organization that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>The film conveys an uncomfortable truth: Jordan was merely a vessel for Nike’s meteoric rise.A. Joseph Dial, Disco Network Postdoctoral Research Fellow, Purdue UniversityLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/1272682021-05-17T11:10:31Z2021-05-17T11:10:31ZThe history of sneakers: from commodity to cultural icon<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/303723/original/file-20191126-180279-gvmxgl.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&rect=0%2C0%2C6989%2C4892&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Sneakers have become highly covetable collectors' items. </span> <span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/great-sneaker-made-different-little-sneakers-1252581049">Zarya Maxim Alexandrovich/ Shutterstock</a></span></figcaption></figure><p>Sneakers (or trainers if you’re British), once the symbol of athleticism, have transcended their primary function to become commercial and fashionable objects of desire. From sportswear and street style to catwalk fashion, sneakers have made their mark as cultural commodities.</p>
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<p><em>You can listen to more articles from The Conversation, narrated by Noa, <a href="https://theconversation.com/uk/topics/audio-narrated-99682">here</a>.</em></p>
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<p>The global sneaker market valued at approximately <a href="https://www.statista.com/statistics/1017918/sneakers-market-value-forecast-worldwide/">US$79 billion</a> (£56 billion) in 2020 and is predicted to reach US$120 billion (£85 billion) by 2026. With such huge growth, it is unsurprising that <a href="https://www.forbes.com/sites/callyrussell/2019/08/22/adidas-or-nike-which-retail-giant-is-winning-the-sneakers-war/#231d028212b7">they are considered big business</a>. </p>
<p>Such are the strides in the sneaker industry that a new exhibition at <a href="https://designmuseum.org/exhibitions/sneakers-unboxed-studio-to-street">London’s Design Museum</a> explores how the shoe became an undisputed cultural symbol of our times.</p>
<h2>Comfort is king</h2>
<p>The last decade has seen a huge shift in how sneakers are worn. Donning a pair is no longer frowned upon in the workplace or on more formal occasions. Even British etiquette experts <a href="https://www.debretts.com/">Debrett’s</a> have given their seal of approval, deeming them socially acceptable for <a href="https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2019/08/10/white-trainers-acceptable-wear-workplace-say-etiquette-experts/">smart casual occasions</a>. </p>
<p>The continued dominance of the <a href="https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2019/08/10/white-trainers-acceptable-wear-workplace-say-etiquette-experts/">athleisure trend</a> has had a significant impact on the growing sales of sneakers – along with the pursuit of <a href="https://www.cnbc.com/2018/05/18/sneaker-sales-are-growing-as-sales-of-high-heels-tumble.html">comfort</a>. This only grew more during the pandemic as lockdowns made people <a href="https://www.voguebusiness.com/consumers/comfort-and-wellness-set-to-define-luxury-in-2021">further prioritise comfort</a>, which resulted in a rise in sales of loungewear, athleisure and flat shoes, like sneakers.</p>
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<p>As such, sneakers have moved from the niche to become coveted as fashionable objects. Footwear is now the <a href="https://www.businessinsider.com/millennials-sneakers-status-symbol-luxury-footwear-style-2019-3?r=US&IR=T">biggest selling category</a> in the online luxury market and sneakers have made a significant contribution to this growth.</p>
<p>High fashion brands from Gucci to Balenciaga are setting the pace in the luxury sneaker market. In 2017, Balenciaga’s Triple S <a href="https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/luxury-sneakers-2017-trend/">became the biggest seller in the luxury sneaker market</a> and its popularity <a href="https://hypebeast.com/2019/5/balenciaga-fall-winter-2019-collection-drop-01-release">seems unstoppable</a>. </p>
<p>To understand how the sneaker has emerged to become a footwear phenomenon, it is important to trace its legacy from function to cultural icon.</p>
<h2>From tennis shoes to track</h2>
<p>The earliest sports shoes were created by <a href="https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/flash-of-genius-1339404.html">The Liverpool Rubber Company, founded by John Boyd Dunlop</a>, in the 1830s. Dunlop was an innovator who discovered how to bond canvas uppers to rubber soles. These were known as sandshoes and worn by Victorians on their beach excursions. </p>
<p>Historian <a href="https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-sports-shoe-9781474281805/">Thomas Turner</a> defines the latter decades of the 19th century as a time when industrial progress and social change were twinned with a growing enthusiasm for sporting pursuits, in particular lawn tennis. This resulted in the need for a more specialised type of footwear, which Dunlop’s rubber sole could fulfil. Dunlop launched their now iconic, Green Flash model in 1929, which was worn by <a href="https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/1310957/Designer-dirt-doubles-price-of-tennis-shoes.html">tennis legend Fred Perry</a> at Wimbledon. </p>
<p>Other significant sports shoes of the 20th century included the <a href="https://www.converse.com/uk/en/our-story/about-us.html">Converse All Star</a>, designed for basketball. However, it is Adidas and Nike that have both shaped the sneaker’s evolution from sport to style. </p>
<figure class="align-center ">
<img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/303798/original/file-20191126-112499-1j4wq8y.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/303798/original/file-20191126-112499-1j4wq8y.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/303798/original/file-20191126-112499-1j4wq8y.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/303798/original/file-20191126-112499-1j4wq8y.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/303798/original/file-20191126-112499-1j4wq8y.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/303798/original/file-20191126-112499-1j4wq8y.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/303798/original/file-20191126-112499-1j4wq8y.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px">
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">The Cortez is Nike’s original running shoe, designed by co-founder Bill Bowerman and released in 1972.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">2p2play/ Shutterstock</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Founded by <a href="https://www.adidas-group.com/en/group/history/">Adi Dassler in Germany in 1924</a> as “Gebrüder Dassler Schuhfabrik”, the company later rebranded as Adidas in 1949. The brand created the first track shoe with a complete leather sole and hand-forged spikes, which was <a href="https://www.adidas-group.com/en/media/news-archive/press-releases/2000/adidas-olympic-history/">worn by Jessie Owens at the 1936 Berlin Olympics</a>.</p>
<p>Nike was created by Bill Bowerman and Phil Knight in <a href="https://www.businessinsider.com/history-of-nike-facts-about-its-50th-anniversary-2014-11?r=US&IR=T">1964 as Blue Ribbon Sports</a> and became Nike Inc. in 1971. This coincided with the <a href="https://www.runnersworld.com/advanced/a20782193/how-the-running-boom-began/">running craze</a> that hit America. Nike’s first commercial design was the Cortez, cushioned for running. The Cortez was worn by <a href="https://footwearnews.com/2017/fn-spy/entertainment/forrest-gump-shoes-nike-cortez-388967/">Tom Hanks in Forrest Gump</a>, securing Nike’s cultural status. </p>
<h2>The commercialisation of cool</h2>
<p>Research by the sociologist <a href="https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/sneakers-9780857857224/">Yuniya Kawamura</a> on sneakers defines three waves of the phenomenon. The first wave in the 1970s was defined by an underground sneaker culture and the emergence of hip-hop. Adidas’ Samba design, as a key example, <a href="https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/terrace-footwear-sneaker-history/">became a key part of</a> <a href="https://outsons.com/the-ultimate-guide-to-terrace-fashion/">Terrace Fashion</a> within football fan subculture. In 1986, Run-DMC released the song My Adidas, leading to a sponsorship deal with the brand. This forged the sneaker’s deep-rooted place in popular culture. </p>
<p>The second wave of the phenomenon began in 1984 with the <a href="https://www.seattletimes.com/business/how-michael-jordan-became-a-brand-even-though-he-almost-skipped-the-meeting-with-nike/">launch of Nike Air Jordans</a>. This gave rise to the commodification of sneakers and their desirability as status items, fuelled through celebrity endorsements. For <a href="https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/sneakers-9780857857224/">Kawamura</a> the third wave is marked by the digital age and the resulting growth in sneaker marketing and resell culture.</p>
<figure>
<iframe width="440" height="260" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JNua1lFDuDI?wmode=transparent&start=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
</figure>
<p>The global sneaker resale market was valued at US$6 billion (£4.6 billion) in 2019 and is forecast to be worth <a href="https://www.cowen.com/insights/sneakers-as-an-alternative-asset-class-part-ii/">US$30 billion</a> (£21 billion) by 2030.</p>
<p>The growing presence of <a href="https://www.forbes.com/sites/mattpowell/2014/05/21/sneakernomics-are-s">“sneakerheads”</a> who collect and trade sneakers have ensured that they maintain cult status. Nike and Adidas routinely release <a href="https://stockx.com/">limited editions shoes</a> associated with a celebrity, hip-hop star or athlete.</p>
<p>It is not unusual for people to go to extreme lengths to get their hands on these rare models, <a href="https://theconversation.com/designer-fashion-nostalgia-magnet-whats-behind-the-rise-and-rise-of-the-sneaker-123766">queuing through the night</a>. Examples include <a href="https://stockx.com/air-yeezy-2-red-october?gclid=CjwKCAiA3OzvBRBXEiwALNKDP76_9yrsw02CQ2_oaZTDuWfBk6SrJcHxQuYfktFpmX2wNid6PqfStRoCYdsQAvD_BwE">Nike Air Yeezy 2 “Red October”,</a> and <a href="https://stockx.com/air-jordan-1-retro-high-off-white-chicago?gclid=CjwKCAiA3OzvBRBXEiwALNKDP9-aj27xohoVB-QTDWxN14onETO5Dp0bW73WO8_VhXBjE88ByivWqxoC9cIQAvD_BwE">Air Jordan x 1 Off-White “Chicago”</a>. </p>
<p>These shoes have a retail value of US$190 to US$240 (£135 to £170) and are reselling for between <a href="https://www.forbes.com/sites/leighsteinberg/2018/09/17/the-profitable-hidden-sneaker-market/#1999e2045925">US$1,695 and US$6,118</a> (£1,202 and £4,339). The lucrative sneaker resale market has created a new cult of <a href="https://www.cnbc.com/2016/09/30/the-16-year-old-sneaker-don-whose-clients-include-odell-beckham-jr-and-dj-khaled.html">sneaker enthusiasts</a> who through entrepreneurial spirit are generating significant hype along with personal income. </p>
<p>From sport to fashion, sneakers dominate the consumer market. Yet, despite their adoption by the mainstream, sneakers retain their coolness as cultural icons.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/127268/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Naomi Braithwaite does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>As sneakers have gone from sportswear to fashion item, the market for the shoe has exploded.Naomi Braithwaite, Senior Lecturer in Fashion Marketing and Branding, Nottingham Trent UniversityLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/859892017-11-06T19:22:35Z2017-11-06T19:22:35ZSustainable shopping: how to rock white sneakers without eco-guilt<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192536/original/file-20171030-18725-adlz70.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Nearly everyone owns a pair of white sneakers. But what are the different materials required to make a sneaker?</span> <span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/idhren/14197620292">Maria Morri/flickr</a>, <a class="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/">CC BY-SA</a></span></figcaption></figure><p><em>Shopping can be confusing at the best of times, and trying to find environmentally friendly options makes it even more difficult. Welcome to our <a href="https://theconversation.com/au/topics/sustainable-shopping-38407">Sustainable Shopping</a> series, in which we ask experts to provide easy eco-friendly guides to purchases big and small.</em></p>
<hr>
<p>White sneakers look great with nearly everything on nearly everybody, so it’s no surprise they’re having a fashion moment. Adidas sold <a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/adidas-hits-marketing-gold-with-stan-smith-shoes">eight million pairs</a> of their iconic Stan Smiths in 2015 (and that doesn’t include the lookalikes).</p>
<p>Nearly <a href="http://www.roymorgan.com/findings/6764-shopping-for-mens-sports-shoes-201604192346">800,000 Australians</a> buy a pair of sporting shoes in any four-week period. This amounts to a staggering <a href="http://www.roymorgan.com/findings/6764-shopping-for-mens-sports-shoes-201604192346">10.4 million pairs sold every year</a>. Globally, Nike sells <a href="https://www.gq.com/story/nike-business-how-many-sneakers-per-second">25 pairs of sneakers every second</a>.</p>
<p>But have you ever considered the environmental impact of your favourite sneakers? From materials to manufacturing, they have a hidden cost – but it is possible to find shoes that don’t cost the Earth. </p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/show-me-the-sole-the-exhilarating-sight-of-sneakers-on-show-77709">'Show me the sole': the exhilarating sight of sneakers on show</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<h2>A pair of runners produces 13kg of CO₂</h2>
<p>While little research has been done on the environmental impact of fashion, one study has found that the production of a pair of running shoes emits <a href="http://news.mit.edu/2013/footwear-carbon-footprint-0522">13kg of carbon dioxide</a>. The production of the materials involved, including <a href="http://publications.lib.chalmers.se/records/fulltext/218968/218968.pdf">leather, nylon, synthetic rubber, plastic and viscose</a>, also takes an environmental toll.</p>
<p>Sneakers have a high carbon footprint as, unlike other types of shoes, they typically have many distinct parts. This involves steps like injection molding, foaming, heating, cutting and sewing.</p>
<p>Where the shoes are made is also a factor. Overwhelmingly, the world’s sneakers come from China: in 2016 they represented 76.8% of the the <a href="https://www.statista.com/statistics/227256/leading-10-global-footwear-producers-by-country/">global footwear manufacturing market</a>. China’s factories are <a href="https://data.worldbank.org/indicator/EG.ELC.COAL.ZS?locations=CN-BR-ID-VN&view=map">largely reliant on fossil fuels</a>, increasing their environmental impact. </p>
<h2>Making a shoe</h2>
<p>So let’s give your sneakers a quick look. The story behind the primary materials of leather, synthetic leather and rubber have a greater environmental cost than you think.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192561/original/file-20171031-18735-16roxon.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192561/original/file-20171031-18735-16roxon.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192561/original/file-20171031-18735-16roxon.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192561/original/file-20171031-18735-16roxon.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192561/original/file-20171031-18735-16roxon.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192561/original/file-20171031-18735-16roxon.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=425&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192561/original/file-20171031-18735-16roxon.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=425&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192561/original/file-20171031-18735-16roxon.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=425&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">The different materials required to produce a sneaker.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Stan_Smith_white_and_green.png">Raizin/The Conversation/Wikimedia Commons</a>, <a class="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/">CC BY-SA</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p><strong>Leather</strong></p>
<p>Leather tanning as an industry is <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.chemosphere.2007.05.086">environmentally costly</a>. Facilities need large amounts of water for treatment, and generate significant amounts of solid and liquid waste, which impacts <a href="http://wst.iwaponline.com/content/28/2/97">soil and water health</a>. </p>
<p>It’s also costly to human health, using <a href="http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00039896.1979.10667364">toxic chemicals</a> and heavy metals like chromium that have been <a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2FBF01202722?LI=true">linked to cancer</a> in leather workers. </p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191989/original/file-20171026-28033-11sb4jg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191989/original/file-20171026-28033-11sb4jg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191989/original/file-20171026-28033-11sb4jg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191989/original/file-20171026-28033-11sb4jg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191989/original/file-20171026-28033-11sb4jg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=338&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191989/original/file-20171026-28033-11sb4jg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=424&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191989/original/file-20171026-28033-11sb4jg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=424&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191989/original/file-20171026-28033-11sb4jg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=424&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Leather tanning in India.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="http://labourbehindthelabel.org/a-tough-story-of-leather/">Labour Behind the Label</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Finally, the majority of leather is cowhide, which has a large environmental impact. The beef industry is the <a href="http://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1748-9326/10/12/125012/meta">largest driver of deforestation globally</a>. It is responsible for <a href="http://www.fao.org/news/story/en/item/197623/icode/">65% of greenhouse gas emissions</a> from livestock.</p>
<p><em><strong>As an alternative:</strong></em> Look for chrome-free leather, vegetable tanned leather or leather alternatives like <a href="http://www.ananas-anam.com/pinatex/">Piñatex</a>, which is made from pineapple leaves.</p>
<p><strong>Synthetic leather</strong></p>
<p>Synthetic leather, which is used in the liner of most sneakers (as well as vegan footwear) may be more eco-friendly than leather, but it’s still not perfect. It’s typically made from plastics like <a href="http://www.vocativ.com/news/281599/vegan-leather-isnt-as-ethical-as-you-think/">polyurethane and PVC</a>, which contain their own harmful chemical ingredients. And unlike leather, it’s not biodegradable.</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191991/original/file-20171026-28045-381cqd.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191991/original/file-20171026-28045-381cqd.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191991/original/file-20171026-28045-381cqd.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=800&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191991/original/file-20171026-28045-381cqd.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=800&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191991/original/file-20171026-28045-381cqd.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=800&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191991/original/file-20171026-28045-381cqd.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=1005&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191991/original/file-20171026-28045-381cqd.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=1005&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191991/original/file-20171026-28045-381cqd.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=1005&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Sri Lanka natural rubber plantation.</span>
<span class="attribution"><a class="source" href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sri_Lanka-Rubber_plantation_(5).JPG">Ji-Elle/Wikimedia Commons</a>, <a class="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/">CC BY-SA</a></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p><em><strong>As an alternative:</strong></em> Look for vegetable tanned leather, Piñatex, recycled PET or textiles like hemp, jute, wool, or organic cotton.</p>
<p><strong>Rubber</strong></p>
<p>Most sneakers use synthetic rubber in the soles. They are made from <a href="https://w3.siemens.com/mcms/sensor-systems/CaseStudies/CS_Butyl_Rubber_2013-01_en_Web.pdf">petroleum byproducts</a> and are treated with chemical compounds. Like other synthetic materials, manufacturing rubber uses energy and water and creates waste. Chemicals can also leach from the shoe as the sole wears down. </p>
<p><em><strong>As an alternative:</strong></em> Look for natural or wild rubber, which can be cultivated to aid against deforestation.</p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/sustainable-shopping-for-eco-friendly-jeans-stop-washing-them-so-often-75781">Sustainable shopping: for eco-friendly jeans, stop washing them so often</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<h2>Sustainable alternatives</h2>
<p>Lucky for us, we are spoiled for choice when it comes to sustainable alternatives to everyone’s favourite casual sneaker. You can check your favourite brands against independent NGOs like <a href="https://projectjust.com/"> Project JUST</a>, the <a href="http://www.bettershoes.org/home/design-process">Better Shoes Foundation</a> or <a href="https://goodonyou.eco/app/">Good On You</a>, or try the eco-friendly brands below (their claims are largely self-reported, so it’s a good idea to look up their ratings as well). </p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192545/original/file-20171031-18738-13p3jbi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192545/original/file-20171031-18738-13p3jbi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192545/original/file-20171031-18738-13p3jbi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=440&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192545/original/file-20171031-18738-13p3jbi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=440&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192545/original/file-20171031-18738-13p3jbi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=440&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192545/original/file-20171031-18738-13p3jbi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=553&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192545/original/file-20171031-18738-13p3jbi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=553&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192545/original/file-20171031-18738-13p3jbi.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=553&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Classic green and white made of recycled cotton.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Veja</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.veja-store.com/en/">Veja</a></strong></p>
<p>The ethical sneaker preferred by fashionistas. They’re made with completely sustainable materials including a range of vegetable tanned leathers, organic and Fairtrade cotton, recycled plastic, wild rubber, jute and hemp. They are also ethically produced in their Brazilian factory.</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192547/original/file-20171031-18738-1kkkfaz.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192547/original/file-20171031-18738-1kkkfaz.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192547/original/file-20171031-18738-1kkkfaz.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=282&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192547/original/file-20171031-18738-1kkkfaz.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=282&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192547/original/file-20171031-18738-1kkkfaz.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=282&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192547/original/file-20171031-18738-1kkkfaz.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=355&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192547/original/file-20171031-18738-1kkkfaz.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=355&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192547/original/file-20171031-18738-1kkkfaz.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=355&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">White sneakers with chrome-free leather and eco microfibre.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Pozu</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p><strong><a href="https://po-zu.com/">Po Zu</a></strong></p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191992/original/file-20171026-28039-1sioieu.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191992/original/file-20171026-28039-1sioieu.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191992/original/file-20171026-28039-1sioieu.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191992/original/file-20171026-28039-1sioieu.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191992/original/file-20171026-28039-1sioieu.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=450&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191992/original/file-20171026-28039-1sioieu.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191992/original/file-20171026-28039-1sioieu.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191992/original/file-20171026-28039-1sioieu.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=566&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Opale, sneakers made of recycled rubber and plastic bottles.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">FYE</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Made in a toxic-free, ethical factory in Portugal using naturally renewable and sustainably harvested materials. No toxic dyes are used on the products, which are primarily made of Piñatex, organic cotton, wool, coir (a mix of coconut husk and natural latex), cork, chrome-free leather and natural rubber.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.foryourearthshoes.com.au">For Your Earth</a></strong></p>
<p>Vegan sneakers using recycled plastic bottles for the uppers. The company goes the extra mile by using organic cotton laces and recycled rubber soles, and plants one tree for every pair of shoes sold.</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192549/original/file-20171031-18689-q9awld.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192549/original/file-20171031-18689-q9awld.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/192549/original/file-20171031-18689-q9awld.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=415&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192549/original/file-20171031-18689-q9awld.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=415&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192549/original/file-20171031-18689-q9awld.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=415&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192549/original/file-20171031-18689-q9awld.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=521&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192549/original/file-20171031-18689-q9awld.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=521&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/192549/original/file-20171031-18689-q9awld.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=521&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Lace-up sneakers with Piñatex.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">NAE</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p><strong><a href="https://www.nae-vegan.com">Nae</a></strong></p>
<p>This ethical footwear company makes great use of cork, Piñatex, recycled PET and paperboard. It also uses a carbon-neutral manufacturing system to create its vegan sneakers.</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191993/original/file-20171026-28036-19atkbg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191993/original/file-20171026-28036-19atkbg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191993/original/file-20171026-28036-19atkbg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191993/original/file-20171026-28036-19atkbg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191993/original/file-20171026-28036-19atkbg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191993/original/file-20171026-28036-19atkbg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191993/original/file-20171026-28036-19atkbg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191993/original/file-20171026-28036-19atkbg.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Australia’s own organic fairtrade lowcuts white.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Etiko</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p><strong><a href="http://etiko.com.au">Etiko</a></strong></p>
<p>This small, family-owned Australian business has been awarded a slew of sustainability accolades because of its ethical and sustainability commitments. Made of natural rubber, organic and Fairtrade cotton (including the laces) and non-toxic dyes (though more of the Converse Chucks styling than Stan Smiths, still a classic look!).</p>
<figure class="align-right zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191994/original/file-20171026-28079-12806o4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191994/original/file-20171026-28079-12806o4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/191994/original/file-20171026-28079-12806o4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191994/original/file-20171026-28079-12806o4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191994/original/file-20171026-28079-12806o4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191994/original/file-20171026-28079-12806o4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191994/original/file-20171026-28079-12806o4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/191994/original/file-20171026-28079-12806o4.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Kota, high tops with tire soles.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Indosole</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p><strong><a href="https://indosole.com">Indosole</a></strong></p>
<p>The soles of these vegan sneakers are made from recycled tires. The shoes’ uppers are made of organic cotton canvas, banana leaves and grass. All shoes are handmade, avoiding manufacturing emissions.</p>
<h2>Most importantly, avoid fast fashion</h2>
<p>The best way to reduce the environmental cost of your sneakers is to hang onto them for as long as you can (fortunately, white sneakers are a classic look). </p>
<p>The “fast fashion” business model means garments and accessories are <a href="https://theconversation.com/for-a-true-war-on-waste-the-fashion-industry-must-spend-more-on-research-78673">increasingly ending up in landfills</a>. You can <a href="https://www.mrporter.com/journal/how-to/how-to-keep-your-sneakers-clean/418">care for your shoes</a> by gently washing them and polishing them until they are no longer wearable. </p>
<hr>
<p>
<em>
<strong>
Read more:
<a href="https://theconversation.com/for-a-true-war-on-waste-the-fashion-industry-must-spend-more-on-research-78673">For a true war on waste, the fashion industry must spend more on research</a>
</strong>
</em>
</p>
<hr>
<p>Have some good quality sneakers you just aren’t wearing? Take them to your <a href="http://opshop.org/">nearest op shop</a> or check out <a href="http://www.shoesforplanetearth.com/shoe-collectors/">Shoes for Planet Earth</a> to make a donation.</p>
<p>Have some really worn sneakers? Nike recycles any sneakers with their <a href="https://en-gb-help.nike.com/app/answer/article/recycle-shoes/a_id/60721/country/au">Reuse-A-Shoe</a> program (not just their own brand) and turns them into Nike Grind, a material used to create courts, tracks, playgrounds and fields. All US-based stores accept worn sneakers; this program is not available in Australia, but if you’re feeling keen, you can mail them <a href="http://help-en-us.nike.com/app/answer/article/reuseashoe-faq/a_id/38356/p/3897">to this address</a>.</p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/85989/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Lisa Heinze is affiliated with sustainable fashion advocacy groups Clean Cut and Fashion Revolution through voluntary roles. </span></em></p>Iconic Stan Smiths can be styled with almost anything, but most white sneakers are costly to the environment. Lucky for us, there are many sustainable alternatives that are just as cool.Lisa Heinze, PhD candidate Sustainability, Fashion & Everyday Life, University of SydneyLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.tag:theconversation.com,2011:article/777092017-05-15T05:48:43Z2017-05-15T05:48:43Z‘Show me the sole’: the exhilarating sight of sneakers on show<figure><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/169281/original/file-20170515-3678-1ey47qo.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=496&fit=clip" /><figcaption><span class="caption">Pierre Hardy's Poworama, 2011
Collection of the Bata Shoe Museum, gift of Pierre Hardy. </span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">Ron Wood Courtesy American Federation of Arts/Bata Shoe Museum</span></span></figcaption></figure><p>It is not often that one walks into an art gallery to be greeted by an air of exhilaration. Such was the case at the Art Gallery of Western Australia on “Sneaker Saturday”, the opening day of the exhibition The Rise of Sneaker Culture. </p>
<p>On that day the gallery was abuzz. Amidst an atmosphere of palpable excitement and anticipation, and against a backdrop of live music by Perth-based rapper Empty, groups of mostly teens to late 30-year-olds moved from one display cabinet to the next as they eagerly searched for their favourite sneakers. </p>
<p>Their delight upon discovering sneakers such as Patrick Ewing’s ski boot-like Ewing 33 HI, or Pierre Hardy’s limited edition Poworama, which was inspired by the work of American artist Roy Lichtenstein, was invariably accompanied by running commentaries in which the sneaker aficionados explained to each other the significance of a particular shoe and its unique design features.</p>
<p>The Rise of Sneaker Culture showcases about 150 pairs of iconic sneakers and charts how the sneaker has developed from its humble origins in the mid-19th century to its current position as a cultural icon worn by billions across the globe. The exhibition includes sneakers from the Bata Shoe Museum, from the archival collections of manufacturers such as Converse, Puma, Reebok and Adidas, as well as sneakers from private collectors such as hip-hop group Run-DMC, self-proclaimed sneaker addict, DJ and hip-hop personality Bobbito Garcia, and Dee Wells of Obsessive Sneaker Disorder. </p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/169280/original/file-20170515-3649-1ny1sxp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/169280/original/file-20170515-3649-1ny1sxp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/169280/original/file-20170515-3649-1ny1sxp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/169280/original/file-20170515-3649-1ny1sxp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/169280/original/file-20170515-3649-1ny1sxp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/169280/original/file-20170515-3649-1ny1sxp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/169280/original/file-20170515-3649-1ny1sxp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/169280/original/file-20170515-3649-1ny1sxp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Adidas x Run–DMC, 25th Anniversary Superstar, 2011.
Courtesy of Run–DMC, collection of Erik Blam</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Ron Wood, courtesy American Federation of Arts/Bata Shoe Museum</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Contemporary examples include designs by Damien Hirst, Kanye West, and Christian Louboutin whose flat, spike embellished gold sneakers appear, at least in this context, as an ironic inversion of spiked track shoes. Accompanying The Rise of Sneaker Culture is SNEAKERHEADS, which showcases sneakers from WA collectors such as Lee Ingram, owner of the largest private collection of ASICS in the world, Kat Murphy, who has a particular passion for velcro sneakers, and, from boutique sneaker retailer Highs and Lows.</p>
<p>One section of the exhibition traces the development of Nike’s hugely popular Air Jordan series of basketball shoes, Air Jordan 1-XX3, on loan from the <a href="http://www.sneakermuseum.com/">Kosow Sneaker Museum</a>. The first model, Air Jordan 1, was designed for Michael Jordan in 1984 by Nike’s Peter Moore. Sometimes known as “Notorious”, Air Jordan 1 was banned by the NBA because its red and black colourway was declared non-regulation. </p>
<p>Jordan continued to play in his “illegal” Air Jordan 1s. Nike paid the $5,000 per game fines and they launched an advertising campaign featuring Michael Jordan wearing the banned sneakers. The voiceover declared, “Fortunately the NBA can’t stop you from wearing them.” Not surprisingly, by the time Air Jordan 1 was released to the public in 1985, the sneakers did not just embody athleticism but were equally associated with individualism and, for some, anti-authoritarianism and rebellion.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/169284/original/file-20170515-3685-1ovwcn1.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/169284/original/file-20170515-3685-1ovwcn1.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/169284/original/file-20170515-3685-1ovwcn1.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/169284/original/file-20170515-3685-1ovwcn1.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/169284/original/file-20170515-3685-1ovwcn1.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/169284/original/file-20170515-3685-1ovwcn1.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/169284/original/file-20170515-3685-1ovwcn1.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/169284/original/file-20170515-3685-1ovwcn1.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Nike Air Jordan I, 1985.
Kosow Sneaker Museum (Electric Purple Chameleon, LLC).</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Kathy Tarantola Photography Courtesy American Federation of Arts</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>For one particular couple on “Sneaker Saturday”, the sight of a pair of Air Jordan XX3s was especially thrilling. Designed by Tinker Hatfield and released in 2008, the exquisitely crafted Air Jordan XX3 is something of a signature sneaker. </p>
<p>For this couple, it was the soles of the Air Jordan XX3 that were of interest. Upon noticing that one of the sneakers was resting on its side so that the sole was fully visible, the woman spontaneously thrust both arms into the air. While gesturing with an “air pump”, she exclaimed, “Show me the sole, give me more sole!”</p>
<p>And there on the underside of the Air Jordan XX3, a part of the shoe that is rarely seen, was an imprint of Michael Jordan’s fingerprint serving as the traction pattern on the outsole. His signature can be seen on the toecap and his thumbprint is on the back of the tongue lining.</p>
<p>In the same year that the Air Jordan XX3 was released, the artist Jimm Lasser modified a pair of Nike’s Air Force 1s. After a disastrous release in 1982, Air Force 1 was discontinued and reintroduced in 1986 when it became an instant classic.</p>
<p>Sometimes known as “felon shoes”, the white-on-white Air Force 1 was, according to Elizabeth Semmelhack, Senior Curator at the Bata Shoe Museum, </p>
<blockquote>
<p>touted as the sneaker of choice for drug dealers, whose ability to wear unscuffed sneakers signified both wealth and status. </p>
</blockquote>
<p>On the rubber soles of Lasser’s Obama Force Is are images of Barack Obama who, in 2008, was running his first Presidential campaign. The upper sole of the left shoe reveals a profile image of Obama’s head. From mid-sole to the heel are the words, “A Black Man Runs and a Nation is Behind Him”, a provocation to follow Obama’s lead. </p>
<p>The right sneaker bears an image of Obama’s upper body that, with each step, is imprinted on the earth. Here, as with many of the shoes on display, sneakers are revealed as so much more than functional footwear.</p>
<p>While one might think that the ergonomic and functional requirements of sneakers impose extreme design limitations – more so than applies to other forms of footwear such as the high heel - this exhibition reveals the extraordinary and often subtle variations in sneaker design.</p>
<figure class="align-center zoomable">
<a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/169282/original/file-20170515-3659-tx4dm2.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img alt="" src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/169282/original/file-20170515-3659-tx4dm2.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/169282/original/file-20170515-3659-tx4dm2.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/169282/original/file-20170515-3659-tx4dm2.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/169282/original/file-20170515-3659-tx4dm2.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/169282/original/file-20170515-3659-tx4dm2.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/169282/original/file-20170515-3659-tx4dm2.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/169282/original/file-20170515-3659-tx4dm2.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px"></a>
<figcaption>
<span class="caption">Stewie Griffin Lebron VI, 2009,
Collection of Chad Jones.</span>
<span class="attribution"><span class="source">Courtesy American Federation of Arts/Bata Shoe Museum</span></span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>The Rise of Sneaker Culture demonstrates how the mingling of traditional craftsmanship and technological innovation has gradually fused with the symbolic capacity of the sneaker. </p>
<p>No longer does the sneaker allude solely to performance on the track field or basketball court. Sneakers are now part of an individually enacted cultural performance that intersects with ideas about gender, race, class, politics and other forms of social meaning.</p>
<p>If shoes are the interface between the human body and the ground, The Rise of Sneaker Culture incisively reveals the ways in which the sneaker can literally, symbolically and ideologically mobilise the wearer. This is a thought-provoking and informative exhibition at the Art Gallery of Western Australia.</p>
<p><em>The Rise of Sneaker Culture is at the Art Gallery of WA until 4 September.</em></p><img src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/77709/count.gif" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" />
<p class="fine-print"><em><span>Clarissa Ball does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.</span></em></p>A new exhibition explores the sneaker’s status as a cultural icon, with shoes featuring an image of Barack Obama’s head on their sole and examples of the celebrated Air Jordan 1.Clarissa Ball, Lecturer in History of Art, The University of Western AustraliaLicensed as Creative Commons – attribution, no derivatives.