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Gabrielle Chanel, photograph by Henry Clarke, published in Vogue France, 1954. Paris Musées. © Henry Clarke, Paris Musées / Palais Galliera / ADAGP. Copyright Agency, 2021

Friday essay: Chanel’s complex legacy

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel transformed women’s fashion across the world: how do we recognise her complex background, difficult choices and ongoing legacy?